LIPPINCOTT'S 
HOME MANUALS 




HOUSEWIFERY 



LFAYBAIDERSTON.A, 




Class. 
Book. 



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Gop>Tight]s'^. 



COEflyCHT DEPOSIT. 



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'Survey our empire and behold our home ! " 

— Byron. 



LIPPINCOTT'S 

HOME MANUALS 

EDITED BY 
BENJAMIN R. ANDREWS, Ph.D. 

ASSISTANT PROFESSOR OP HOCSEHOLD ECONOMICS, TE.\CHERS COLLEGE, 
COLUMBIA UNIVERSIXr 



HOUSEWIFERY 

A MANUAL AND TEXT BOOK 
OF PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING 

By LYDIA ray BALDERSTON, A.M. 

INSTRUCTOR IN HOUSEWIFERY AND LAUNDERING, TEACHERS COLLEGE, 
> COLUMBI.\ UNIVERSITY, NEW YORK CITY 



J.UTINCOTT'S 

HOME MANUALS 

Edited by BENJAMIN R. ANDREWS, Pii.D. 

TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 

CLOTHING FOR \YO]MEi\ 

By LAURA I. BALDT, B.S. 

TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 

454. page:?, 7 colored plates, 262 illustrations in text, 
$2.00 net. 

SUCCESSFUL CANNING AND 
PRESERVING 

By OLA POWELL 

DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, WASHINGTON, D. C. 

370 pages, 4 colored pjlates, 153 illustrations in text, 
$2.00 net. 

HOME AND 
COMMUNITY HYGIENE 

By jean BROADHURST. Ph.D. 

TE.\CUER3 COLLEGE, COLCMBLX UNIVERSITY 

428 pages, 1 colored plate, 118 illustrations in text, 
$2.00 net. 

THE BUSINESS OF THE 
HOUSEHOLD 

By C. W. TABER 

AUTHOR OF TABER'S DIETETIC CHARTS, 
nurses' medical dictionary, ETC. 

438 pages. Illustrated. $2.00 net. 

MILLINERY 

By EVELYN SMITH TOBEY, B.S. 

TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 



LiPPiNCOTT's Home Manuals 

EDITED BY BENJAMIN R. ANDREWS, Ph.D. 

Teachers College, Columbia University 

HOUSEWIFERY 

A MANUAL AND TEXT BOOK 
OF PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING 



BY 

LYDIA RAY BALDERSTON, A.M. 

INSTRUCTOR IN HOUSEWIFERY AND LAUNDERING, TEACHERS COLLEGE, COLUMBIA 
UNIVERSITY, NEW YORK CITY 
AUTHOR OF "laundering" 



175 ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT 




PHILADELPHIA AND LONDON 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 






^ 






COPYRIGHT, I919 
BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY 



ElectTotyped and Printed <bj/,' J. B. Lippincott Company 
The Washington Square Press, Philadelphia, U. S. A. 



APR -3 1919 

5)CLA5129i3 



AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED 

TO 

E. M. BALDERSTON 



"The poetry of life always 
has a practical side to it, and 
most practical affairs rightly 
worked out are full of poetry." 



PREFACE 

This handbook of practical liousekeeping is offered to women 
in the hope that it may show in some measure how to reduce tasks 
in the home and how to save time, money, and energy. This book 
will be of direct help to the many women who do their own work 
or supervise household employes and who are seeking guidance 
by consulting reference books as other professional workers do. 
The book is the outgro^vth of many years of experience in house- 
keeping and in teaching housewifery to groups of practical house- 
keepers, with emphasis upon the technical processes of the home. 
It is designed to help not only the individual home w^oman but to 
serve as a text for study groups of rural extension and other club- 
women and in the housekeepers' courses given by schools and 
colleges. Any further study of the sciences, directly or indirectly 
connected with housewifery, may be carried on by means of the 
references suggested throughout the book. 

Because of the many requests from former students, who are now 
teachers, for a book that brings housewifery topics within one cover, 
the author offers these suggestions from her experience. It is 
hoped that the outline of courses, the bibliography, and the sug- 
gestions for laboratory supervision will meet the need so often 
expressed by teachers. 

The prices stated in the book are merely to give relative value, 
and can not be considered as definite in any locality. 

It is with much appreciation that the author acknowledges assist- 
ance in reading the manuscript to Dr. B. R. Andrews, Teachers 
College; Miss Matilda J. McKeown, formerly Instructor of House- 
wifery, Teachers College; and Professor Emma H. Gunther, De- 
partment of Household Administration, Teachers College. 

L. Ray Baldekston. 
October, 1918. 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 

Acknowledgment is herewith made for the use of illustrative 
material as follows : 

Figures 1, 5, 6 and 7, drawn by Marcia Mead, of Schenck & 
Mead. 

Figures 17, 18 and 19, U. S. Government Bulletin. 

Figures 20 and 32, Standard Plumbing Company, Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania. 

Figure 27, Home HeLps Company, New York City. 

Figure 29, J. L. Mott Iron Works, Newark, New Jersey. 

Figure 33, Dangler Stove Company, Cleveland, Ohio. 

Figure 44, Richardson & Boynton, New York City. 

Figures 51 and 94, Consolidated Gas Company, New York City. 

Figure 53, The Cleveland Metal Products Company, Cleveland, 
Ohio. 

Figure 55, H. R. Corwin Manufacturing Company, Newark, New 
Jersey. 

Figure 58, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

Figure 59, Caloric Cooker Company. 

Figure 65, Janes & Kirtland, New York City. 

Figure 74, Dodge & Zuill, Syracuse, New York. 

Figure 75, Early Manufacturing Company, New York City. ' 

FigUTe 76, 1900 Manufacturing Company, Bingham ton. New 
York. 

Figure 77, Joseph L. Cohen, New York City. 

Figure 78, Hill Dryer Company, Worcester, Massachusetts. 

Figure 80, Chicago Dryer Company, Chicago, Illinois. 

Figure 87, Duntley Pneumatic Sweeper Company, Chicago, 
Illinois. 

Figure 88, Franc Premier Company, Cleveland, Ohio. 

Figure 136, E. C. Stearns & Company, Syracuse, New York. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Housewifery as a Business 1 

II . Plumbing 21 

III. Heating and Lighting 52 

IV. Equipment and Labor-Saving Appliances — 1 84 

V. Equipment and Labor-Saving Appliances — II 103 

VI. Household Supplies 129 

VII. Household Furnishings 148 

VIII. Storage 204 

IX. Cleaning and Care of Rooms, Beds, Bathroom, Kitchen, 

Metals 240 

X. Cleaning and Renovation 273 

XT. Disinfectants and Fumigants 297 

XII. Household Pests 307 

XIII. Suggestions for Teachers 318 



HOUSEWIFERY 

CHAPTEE I 
HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 

" Housewifery is the business of the mistress of the family." 
If this/ definition were analyzed in detail, we should find the word 
"business" meaning concern; "mistress," the person versed in 
everything ; and " family," a group of individuals living under one 
roof. Thus, to enlarge the definition, it would read : Housewifery is 
the concern of the person versed in everything pertaining to a group 
of individuals living under one roof. 

The accepted fact to-day is that every housewife ought to become 
as proficient in her realm as the business man is in his. As a 
man can not do good work without the best facilitieis and the most 
careful organization in his office, so the housewife is handicapped 
unless her workshop is suitably planned and arranged. 

In order that the plan of the house add to the efficiency of 
the housewife's work, there should be careful consideration given 
to the division of the space in the house, because it is only through 
dividing and planning that there can b© any real organized business. 

Division of Space in the Home. — Any house already built may 
involve conditions that are not idealy but the division of most homes 
is into three parts : the work unit, the recreation unit, and the rest 
nnit. No matter how small the house is, this division is auto- 
matically made. It increases or decreases in area according to the 
income, and the size of the family. 

Work Unit. — The work unit of the hons© includes the kitchen, 
the pantry, the laundry, and the cellar. As long as this group of 
rooms is literally a workshop, these rooms must not only be arranged 
to give the worker good light, but the various tools and equipment 
ought to be so placed that the housewife is saved the fatigue which 
results from taking unnecessary steps, and from carrying tools and 
materials a greater distance than is necessary. 

1 



2 HOUSEWIFERY 

The kildicn work-shop itself is to be arranged by division into 
units. The units are controlled by diU'erent processes. For exam- 
ple, the mixing of food is usually at a table or cabinet with the 
shelves al)ove it; the processes of cooking and baking are done 
around a stove ; the washing of foods and dishes is done at a sink ; 
so that the table, the stove, and the sink, each becomes a center of 
these units, about wh.ich should lie placed the necessary small uten- 
sils and equipment. 

In a large kitchen, as in many farm house kitchens, it will be 
a great saving if the room l)e divided by an imaginary line into 
the work part of the kitchen and the rest part. Under these 
conditions, a large kitchen is not a handicap (except for the extra 
space to clean) because it makes better ventilation possible; and 
if, in the work part of the kitchen, one groups in a close relationship 
stx)ve, table, and sink, one not only reduces the work of the large 
kitchen but gains the benefit of better air. The housekeeper, who 
has so many interruptions in her work, might use this rest portion 
of her kitchen for her sewing machine and a small table, so that 
it would be possible for her to do some of her sewing, reading or 
studying during the time she is watching her food. 

In the laundry there are two distinct units, so that automati- 
cally the laundry divides itself into parts, one where the washing is 
carried on, and the other where the ironing is done. The stove 
is the connecting link between these two laundiy units and should 
be placed so that it is convenient to each. 

The pantry is a part of the work unit, connecting the kitchen 
and the dining room. The dining room is between the work unit 
and the recreation unit, and therefore in its plan is influenced by 
both iinits. The efficiency of the pantry is increased by having a 
soiik and sufficient closet room so that all the work of serving and 
clearing away may be done Avithout going the greater distance into 
the kitchen. Such a pantry is called a butler's pantry. In order 
that it serve its purpose best, there should be two doors, one into 
the kitchen and one into the dining room. A kitchen pantrv' having 
only one door is less convenient. 

When the housewife has all the work to do herself, she may not 
care to consider the butler's pantry, but instead may secure a clo'se 
relationship between the dining room and the kitchen by having a 
large window-like opening made in. the wall, fitted mtb a glass or 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 3 

wooden slide to reduce the work of serving. To add to the conven- 
ience of such a slide, plan large shelves on both sides so as to have 
plenty of room for the dishes. Standing a screen on the dining 
room side will mal^e this window serve the purpose of a pantry, and 
do away with the extra walking whioh tlie Avidth of a [jantry 
requires. 

Recreation. Unit. — The recreation luiit may be one room, the 
Kying room, in which the family may assemble. Whether it also 
includes a library, a parlor, a reception room, a den, and other 
special rooms and porches, depends entirely upon the method of 
living of the family. Tlie dining room Ijelongs equally, of course, 
to the recreation unit. 

Rest Unit. — ^The rest unit depends largely \i])()n the number in 
the household. This is true to such an extent that if an architect 
is called for advice, the house plans are made around the number 
of bedrooms required. The bathroom belongs to this unit, and 
the comfort and convenience of the family depends to a large extent 
on the placing of the bathroom, and its relationship to the bedrooms. 
Every effort should be made to have this unit quiet, and accessible 
without going through the other two units. The arrangement 
of the hallways will be entirely responsible for this. 

Small individual bedrooms, while making a larger house, are 
greatly preferred so that each may have his own room. Bedrooms 
are decidedly rooms for the individual. A guest room might be 
put in an especially quiet part of the house, for then it might be 
used as a sick room, if needed. Each bedroom should have, if 
possible, two windows opening in different directions so as to secure 
currents of air, for much of the comfort of the night's rest will 
^depend upon this. Let no architect's plea for low-lying roofs, 
which reduce the exposure of bedrooms to a single direction, have 
weight compared with the standard of '' two windows for every 
bedroom, opening in different directions." The rest unit should 
have all the sunlight possible, remembering that the sun is one of 
the best disinfectants. 

As the rest unit is best placed on the south or sunny side of 
the house, so the work unit may be placed at the north of the 
house, because these rooms require artificial heat in the work 
processes, then in winter they will be warm enough, and in summer 
they will be cooler away from the sun. The choice position for 



4 HOUSEWIFERY 

the dining room is at the east, because the cheer of early morning 
sun is pleasanter than tliat of the low setting sun if the dining room 
were on the west. 

Halls or passageways may connect the three units. This rela- 
tionship, properly established, does much toward increasing the 
efficiency of the house and reducing its labor. The hallways make 
convenient the passing from one di\ision of the home to another, 
improve ventilation, facilitate supervision, and may make the home 
more attractive by an interrelation of color in walls and furnishings. 
Houses -without halls may not only be noisy, especially in the rest 
center, but, unless carefully planned, will not make for privacy. 

All of these things may not be possible in a house which one 
rents, but in a new house they are possible through the sugges- 
tions of the housekeeper, her help in making architects' plans, 
and iher cooperation with the builder. 

Housewife's Suggestions to Architect. — If this thought of 
establishing units is kept in mind by the housewife, the new home 
may be planned in a most efficient manner, for there will be a close 
relationship of doors to the yards and to stairways, and windows 
will be so placed as to produce not only cross ventilation but 
to give proper light on the work. Wall spaces will be planned 
so as to furnish suitable backgrounds for the placement of stoves, 
tubs, sinks and furniture. 

Cellar stairs should Ijring a close connection between kitchen 
and cellar; coal bins in the cellar should be so connected with the 
outside windows as to allow direct delivery of coal into the bins ; 
and the furnace and the bin for furnace coal should be close enough 
together tq eliminate the strain of carrying coal. Kitchen coal or 
wood, if not juist outside the kitchen door, should be in a bin near 
the stairs leading from the cellar to the kitchen. To make the 
journey down cellar as easy as possible, plan comfortable cellar 
stairs that are not too steep, that is, with a wide tread and a step 
not too high; and for safety, plan that the stairsi be well lighted 
from a window if possible, and certainly by the proper arrange- 
ment of artificial lighting. 

Every workshop must have thorough ventilation. It is a proved 
fact that much fatigue and thus, indirectl}', many accidents are 
caused by poor ventilation. The best ventilation is by windows 
which give cross drafts. Where such windows cannot possibly be 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 6 

secured, transoms over doors add much to better ventilation; an 
objection to them is a greater possibility of noise and correspond- 
ingly less privacy. 

For the convenience of cleaning, and for sanitary reasons, 
curved baseboards in kitchen, laundry, and bathroom, should be 
considered in the planning of a new house. If an old house is 
being made over, it is possible to set in a curved foundation, if a 
new floor is to be laid over the old. 



MasonrNj Wall 

Trawz Vail 

[nsidt Poor 
/lasonr^ Vail 

Frame Vall 

rireplac/i 
Aaionrj Vail 

rraine Vail 



^2i_i£ Outsiia Door __^ 

Aasonr^jVall ^^ _ 



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u"— 3'-o''— izT 



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ir-^ 3'-0 --12' 



frame Vail 
■Door Swin^ 



I Vindow 

' nasorrrvjVaU /^^ 

Tranie Vall 

KitcKen ChuTinev 
A ajonrj Vail 




Tra rne Vall 



o o o 
o o o 



Fia. 1. — Architect's method of indicating houseplans. Easily drawn on special paper 
which is blocked off in quarter inch squares. Allow 3'4 inch for a foot. 



That the housewife may be able not only to help make plans 
for the new house, and changes in the old, but to express herself 
to the architect so that he in turn may know what she wants, these 
drawings expressed in architectural form are presented to assist 
her. Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4 give examples of the various conventions 
used in architects' drawings. Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are architects* 
drawings of typical houseplans — for, respectively, a workman's 
house, a farm house, and a Colonial house. 



6 HOUSEWIFERY 

Space for Furniture. — Aftci- the )il;iii for tlu' house has l)een 
made, and before it is accepted as final, the huusevvdfe should check 
up some very important points. For example, does the wall space 
in the l)edroom allow for a space for the bed? Wliethef the furni- 
ture has been purchased or not, there are obviously certain pieces 
of furniture that will have to be placed in the house. In order 
to have the proper space for these pieces of furniture, she can 
measure and (to the same scale as the house plans) cut pieces of 
cardboard wiiich represent the lar<ie pieces of furniture. These 
pieces of cardl)oard may be moved on the plan, and if the measure- 
ments are accurate, they will prove whether the space allowed for 
the l)ureau or bed or sideboard is lars'e enouo-h. If she has not 



V.C 



Tab 




aj I n 



Corrie r 
ba.5i n 



Ui-o"-+-'j'-o'^ 

Fig. 2. — Indicating plumbing fixtures. 



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Z'-O 

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bought the furniture, she should measure for the standard sizes 
of furniture as fomid in the stores, and tliiis standard may well be 
taken as a mininnnn s]xice, anyway. 

Placing Tools and Equipment. — After the house is planned, 
consideration next is given to purchasing tools and equipment, in 
fact, all the things needed for work. The housewife may buy her 
equipment and arrange her work-shop so that it represents the 
poissibility of the greatest amount of work with the least possible 
cost for equipment, and the least possible expenditure of effort in 
accomplisliing the work. (For suggestions which may be of service 
in buying equipment, see chapter on Equipment and Labor-saving 
Appliances.) 

Until the housewife realizes that the standard of equipment 
she uses and the way it is arranged represent two-thirds of the 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 7 

household work problem, she has not fully started the business 
of housekeeping. Until then she has no right to check up a maid 
as to whether she is slow or unskilful, because the best trained 
woman is handicapped in producing standard results if her tools 
are poorly selected and poorly arranged. 

Makeshifts of tools may represent temporary money economy, 
but often there would be permanent money economy if the right tool 



^in^U 5ed 



Double bad 



Pinirq Utii Tabic 



Allow (,' for Trftti Z. 





3S? 



9?* 



Clo3et3 



Fig. 3. — Indicating beds, tables, closets. 



were chosen for the special task. It is on this point that the 
business man excels the woman in her business of housekeeping, for 
he plans to get the right tool, while she often plans to see how 
long she can do without buying it. 

The best tools, poorly arranged, may give only fifty per cent, 
of their efficiency. Here again, in industry, men standardize tools 
and shop organization, selecting not only the best tools, but assem- 
bling them so that they may be used by the worker without loss 
of time and effort, thus securing a corresponding reduction of 
fatigue. A good example of assembling tools and small utensils in a 



HOUSEWIFERY 






Detail of 5ic-p 




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MriiTijiT 

JjiLLliiMLlL 

Plan 



Platform orLandin 



IT 



Uf S; rlaCTs 




inders 



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Vcl? ho/c 



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Fig. 4. — Indicating stairs and landings. The landing should be the width of the stairway. 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 9 

kitchen might be taken from that of a chef's table iu a hotel or a 
cook's kitchen on shipboard, where eyery thing must be " ship shape." 
The arrangement of the rack above the table, the hooks beneath or 
at the side, the deep shelf or the additional shelf — all these bring 
the tools together and represent that well-organized economy Avhich 
makes for scientific housekeeping. 

Certain things have been done for so long — almost centuries — 
that the new ideas, so called, of the house^dfe are often considered 
non-workable. The placing of a washtub is one of the best illus- 
trations of this, because almost since set washtubs have been in 
existence, they have been placed with their backs to the window. 
Such a position for a tub not only produces a strain on the worker's 
eyes, but is in no way as satisfactory as the side light secured by 
placing the tubs at the side of a window. The same rule holds 
good for placing sinks. 

A most important point, too, is the height of tubs and other 
working surfaces. Until the last few years a woman who stood 
erect seems not to have been credited with doing work, because all 
her equipment has been placed so that she not only stoops over 
her work, but almost crouches over it. The whole idea of high 
washtubs and sinks is so modern that the housewife Avill find it 
difficult to obtain them to-day unless she stands guard over tKe 
work as the architects and plumbers are making their measure- 
ments and installations. Tables can be made higher; stoves can be 
lifted; portable ironing boards and washtul>s can be made higher 
with so little cost that it is only the matter of the housewdfe demand- 
ing that the change be made. Sinks and stationarj^ washtubs, how- 
ever, can not be changed without some expense attached. For this 
reason, it is important that they be properly placed in the begin- 
ning if possible ; if not, it may be worth the extra expense to have 
them lifted to a height that will be comfortable for the worker. 

Standardizing. — Tools and Tasks: Fully as important, in 
turn, as the right selection and placement of tools and equipment 
is the matter of standardizing them for the work they have to do. 
The woman who has had training automatically tries to reduce ' 
the time and effort required for her work, and by means of her 
training becomes vitally interested in cutting down the time and 
eliminating unnecessary motions in her household tasks. House- 
work is indeed fascinating and interesting and much of its monotony 



10 



HOUSEWIFERY 







a o 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 



11 



is gone when she really " plays the game " intently. From this 
time-and-motion-study. she will learn not only how to do her work 
more scientifically, but the next time she purchases tools she will 
make a wider selection and a wiser choice in what she buys, because 
she has learned how some things hinder and other things help in 
her work. 



fr VAA,. o^2[^]-'i4 ^^^^ ^g: 




Fig. 6. — Farmhouse. The good feature of this plan is that it is a compact bungalow 
plan with each unit so distinct that it may be entirely closed off. Planning the kitchen to 
face the road adds cheer. 



How many housewives have counted the motions necessary and 
unnecessary and kept account of the time in making a bed or 
cleaning a bathtub? Have they ever taken account, in making a 
bed, of the unnecessar}- steps in going from the bed to the chair 
where the clothes are airing? How many unnecessary motions 



12 



HOUSEWIFERY 




HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 13 

are used in the process of making ? Of course, the gain from such a 
•study is to see how the effort may be reduced and the standard of 
the finished product remain the same. 

For a comparative study where tools and materials enter in, a 
hathroom might be chosen. The type of brush used versus a cloth ; 
the question of soap powder versus soap; the rinsing by a bath 
ispray versus filling the tub with water; a soft spongy cloth versus 
none, wihen. a tub is spotted — all these play a part in the study. 
Such a study can in no way be called standardizing of tasks 
unless the worker has an ideal, and unless she is willing to check 
herself by many studies. But even brief efforts with such studies 
will prove stimukting and practically helpful. 

If the housewife is interested in such a study, it will not take 
her long to note that the results are influenced by the skill of the 
worker, by the height of the working surface, by the tools and sup- 
plies being fitted to their, tasks, and even by the time of day and 
the coinsequent fatigue of the worker. If she has become inter- 
ested in any one study, she will soon find herself going about all the 
different tasks of housework, testing how these time-and-motion 
studies may be applied to routine processes like window Avashing, 
setting the table, dusting, and the like. She will become so inter- 
ested in the study that the so-called drudgery of housework becomes 
an interesting game. 

Score Cards: Score cards are like a tally sheet in which rating 
of some task or tool or material is made on a percentage basis. 
The smn total for perfect conditions or results equals 100 per cent., 
and lesis perfect conditions are correspondingly reduced in score. 
The plan is to list in score form the various essential elements, 
and assign a nmnber of points to each in proportion to its impor- 
tance in the ideal. For example, score cards for testing bread are 
used in schools and in county fairs. Score cards have been widely 
used for tests of dairies and in agricultural experiment stations. 
Eecent use has been made of them in scoring restaurants, housing 
conditions, etc. 

^Yhile little has been done by the housewife, largely because 
each home has been thought such an individual problem, she may 
with profit make a test score card for herself. Examples are given 
below which might be ra'^dified to be fitted to her use. 



14 HOUSEWIFERY 

Kitchen Scouk Caiu) 
Location: 

Kxposiire 5 

Place in house 5 10 

Plan : 

Size 5 

Proximity to cellar, pantry, (lining room a 

Division of space for work 5 

\\in(lo\v arrangement 5 

Closets 5 25 

Interior finish : 

Floor-material 10 

Wall-material 3 

Color 2 15 

tSanifafion : 

Ventilation 5 

Cleanliness 5 10 

Equipment : 

Choice of — for efficiency 10 

Arrangements — 

Working centers 5 

Oronped utensils 5 

Ronting 5 

Condition 10 

Height of working snrfaces .5 40 

Total 100 

Score Caud for Gasmexts 
Xti/le : 

Appropriate for [Hirjiose 5 

Appropriate for person 5 

Material : 

Color 5 

Kind 10 

Amount 5 

Trimming 5 

Form : 

Conformation to figure 9 

Uniformity) . , . ,,. ,„ 

. • V in shaping or cutting Ifi 

Accuracy J 

'Workmanship: 

Uniformity 10 

Seams 10 

Stitching 10 

Finish 10 

Total 100 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 



15 



Organization. — In this business of housekeeping, the house- 
wife must learn to organize. In business one of tlie most important 
principles of organization is a definite plan of work. This is just 
as necessary for the housewife in organizing and arranging the 
affairs of her household as for the business man. 

Schedules: As the housewife becomes more and more proficient, 
she is better able to map out working schedules or plans for various 
tasks about the house. ISTo one knows how much time to plan for 
a task until one has done it, and it is by just such planning and 
then checking of the plan by doing, that the housewife becomes a 
better business manager both of her own time and of her household 
employee if she has one. 

Schedule Without Help. — The housewife without employed 
help has duties so varied that they are difficult to reduce to an 
exact program or schedule. The exact duties and the amount of 
time each will require will vary according to such conditions as: 
life in city or in country; house or apartment living; size of family 
and ages of children ; income available ; etc. The following schedule 
is an estimate indicating the kinds of duties and the approximate 
amount of time necessary for each in a household where the mother 
does all the work : 



Kind of work 



Food work 

Laundry — washing 

ironing 

Care of clothing 

House care, cleaning, etc 

Children and miscellaneous 

Management, accounts, planning 

Total 



Hours each day 


Occasional 


for regularly recur- 


additional hours 


ring tasks 


per week 


4- 6 


2- 4 




3- 5 




4- 6 




1- 4 


1- 2 


4 


2- 3 


2 




1- 3 


7-11 


17-28 


hrs. per 


additional 


day and 


hrs. per week 



If the tasks in the second column are distributed through the 
week, an average of two to four hours a day would l)e called for, in 
addition to the seven to eleven hours for regular daily tasks of the 
household. This means a nine- to fifteen-hour work day for the 



16 



HOUSEWIFERY 



woman who does all her own work. In such a 'household it is ven' 
imjx)rtant for the housewife to have a daily schedule of special 
tasks: washing day (Tuesday is hotter than jMonday) ; ironing 
day; baking day; cleaning days; mending day. Some items of 
work, for exani})le, cleaning of silver, may well he brought iu only 



Houftw,f» 





D^.iy /3 „(,<•, 






1 I I 1 




C... c. 




Mt.htlBf 


S.f,r..^, 





Sp.C,.IIlul,„ 






1 1 1 






D.,1 


/lenjinf 





Oix Mo^ttA./J im^U^t^ 





Da.l^ l>u1,c, 





































i/cckl^ DitUs 










1 _ ^ 


1 1 1 








n^nda. 


ft'da<f 


Ch,„ 


Du,T 


l/.U 


I, on 


Cll 







F,cc r,n,c 



ft,) ,1, lit Kl,td»lt, 

Fig. S. — Chart showing duties of the housewife and maid and their relationship. Such a 
plan adds to the ease of checking up work schedules. 

once in two weeks. It is also important for her to consider what 
work she can hire ; for example, the family washing done by rough- 
dry method at pound rates. 

Schedules with Employed Help (Figs. 8 and 9). — The house- 
wife may list duties for which she is responsible, and plan how and 
when she will do them; if she employs one or more maids, the 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 



17 



greater the need for being able to present to them a similar list of 
duties. In making out the schedule she must take into account 
the number of rooms in the house, the size of the family, the num- 
ber of guests, outside assistance (in 'washing, etc.), days off of 
helpers, etc. A good way to begin would be to list regular duties 
for every day in the week, such as cooking, washing dishes, bed 
making, and dusting. The next thing is to note special cleaning 



/ferret inf 



ht £^f,u.. 












,kl,f 2>u1»t 




^t^'TiiU ,^'"^ 



ffl in iU tckU^U 

Fig. 9. — Chart showing a larger organization as needed for two maids. 

on certain days every week, and special cleaning on certain days every 
other week. If this is done, there can be schedules so that there 
will be an equ'al amount of cleaning every week. It is desirable 
that children have small household tasks and these too should be 
brought into the plans. 

With either schedule, apportion the work so that no day is 
overcrowded, so that rest periods are possible for one or both help- 
ers. It can be done — here is where the housewife's knowledge of 
the time required for each task is reflected in the organization. 



18 



iioi si;\\ iii;i{^- 

Ho u T jcrz/cc/ 



fcf Pro ^ e ss 10 -no-l fcop /e. 



Tu/Q Haidt 



V hour service, S hoo-y Service. ^ hour Se^rvice.- %houL.r SeryiCA 




Ho. 



lAn-IIAMI.iof/1-l,\ 7 A/1-iifl SF/i-i fi/i 
/OA/'f - if rf. S: Jo f>/1. f.Jo n/1- 6: il>/^l^;i;i<> M- i-}> VJ. 



a d., J. 
.1 



B 



Fig. 10.— Chart showing time of hour service. Today when many housewives "xe 
having hour service instead of week service, such a chart is of great help^ especiri y when 
of TorT ^"^ "' ''"'■^"^- ^^°^'''' ''*''"*""''' ^'^•■'^ " "^ '•'-presents on; p^rwJ iTours 

One way to arrange work to -achaiitag-e is as follow.s: 
Each week clean rooms used most. 
Onee in two weeks {-lean silver. 



HOUSEWIFERY AS A BUSINESS 19 

Once in two weeks (alternate with eleanin<^^ silver) clean the 
rooms used least. 

Should weekly cleaning for each part he demanded, either an out- 
side helj^er would have to be employed^ or the housewife assist in 
doing some of the work herself. 

TJiis is possible by her taking as her task that part of the 
work that she does well or the maid does poorly, making special 
desserts, salads, breads and cakes, or each day doing the beds and 
dusting, leaving only the cooking and general cleaning for the maid. 
If there is much entertaining one can hardly expect the one maid 
to do everything. 

Hour Service. — Hour service, that is, bringing in of a hired 
worker for certain hours only, has much in its favor for Ijoth mis- 
tress and maid. For the mistress, the expense is much less because 
there is no expense of food for the help, although perhaps the rate 
per hour iseems high. The arrangement is more like the store or 
factory with regular hours, and after workhours freedom to do 
as one pleases. The type of worker is more of the office type, supe- 
rior in that she has more education, greater possibilities for intelli- 
gent organization of work and coiiperation with her employer. For 
the maid, the time demanded for work is specified and any extra 
time is paid for as an extra. 

On the accompanying charts arrangements of hours for different 
situations — the one-maid household and the two-maid household — 
are presented. Possible arrangements of hours for part time serv- 
ice are presented in chart form in Fig. 10. A shows an arrange- 
ment for a four-hour per day service — from eight to ten, and from 
five-thirty to seven-thirty in the evening; B shows an arrangement 
for five hours of service — seven-thirty to nine-thirty in the morn- 
ing, and from five o'clock to eight in the evening; C illustrates two 
eight-hour-day plans for two maids in a household, with two different 
arrangements of hours which give each maid eight hours of work, 
and also time off every day. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. Draw two plans — of your own kitchen and one other yon know. Compare 

them from the viewpoint of ease of doing work. 

2. With the plan of your own kitchen, trace by dotted lines the journeys 

taken in making apple sauce and preparing for serving. 

3. Modify the plan of your kitchen so that it will he a workshop with few 

steps and lessened Jabor. 



20 HOUSEWIFERY 

4. Make a score card for wasliiiig dislics. 

5. Discuss ways in wliicli liome niaim<,fi'in('iit and oflice management may 

be alike. Ways in which they must be unlike. 
0. In your housekeeping, how many ways have you found tliat " your 

head may save your heels ? " 
7. fJiven ten dollars to spend, what books would you buy for a housewife's 

library? 

REFERENCES 

Andrews, B. R., Education for the Home. U. S. Bureau of Education, 
Bulletin No. 3G, 

Barker, Helene, Wanted a Young Woman to do Hou.sewokk. ^foffat. 
Yard & Co. 

Barrows, Anna, Farm Kitchen as a Workshop. U. S. Dei)artment of 
Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 607. 

Broadhurst, Jean, Home and Community Hygiene. J. B. Lippincott 
Company. 

Campbell, Helen, Household Economics. G. P. Putnam & Co. 

Child, G. B., The Efficient Kitchen. McBride, Nast & Co. 

Dodd, Katharine, Healthful Farm House. Whitcomb & Barrows. 
^DoNHAM, Agnes. Marketing and Housework. Little, Brown & Co. 

Frederick, Christine, The New Housekeeping. Doubleday, Page &. Co. 

GiLBRETH, Frank, Motion Stltdy. D. Van Nostrand Co. 

Kinne, Helen, and Cooley, Anna, Home and Family. Macmillan Co. 

KiTTREDGE, Mabel H., The Home AND ITS MANAGEMENT. Century Co. 

Richardson, Bertha J., The Woman Who Spends. Whitcomb & Barrows. 

Taber, C. W., The Business of the Household. J. B. Lippincott Company. 

Talbot, Marion, The ]\Ioderx Household. Whitcomb & Barrows. 

Tarbell, Ida, The Business of Being a Woman. Macmillan Co. 

Taylor, Frederick W., Principles of Scientific ]\Ianagement. Harper 
& Bros. 

Terrill, Bertha, Household Management. American School of Home 
Economics. 

Thompson, C. Bertrand, The Theory and Practice of Scientific Man- 
agement. Houghton, Mifflin Co. 

U. S. Bureau of Standards, Materials for the Household, Circular 
No. 70. 

Uni\'ersity of Missouri, F.uim Kitchen. Agricultural Extension Service, 
Circular No. 12. 

University of Texas, The Planning of Simple Homes. Circular No. 39. 

Wadhams, Caroline R., Simple Directions Series (for waitress, cham- 
bermaid, nurse, cook, butler, laundress). Longmans, Green Co. 

White, Charles, Successful Homes and How to Build Them. Mac- 
millan. 

Wilbur, ISIary, Everyday Business for Women. Houghton Mifflin Co. 

Young, Mrs. H. B., Planning the Home Kitchen. Cornell University, 
Bulletin No. 108. 



CHAPTER II 

PLUMBING 
WATER SUPPLY— HOUSEHOLD WASTE— PLUMBIXG FIXTURES 

The convenience of good plumbing is such an accepted fact to- 
day that the question in town or cit}^ is not whether we can have 
plumbing but what plunibing do we need in a given house. In the 
open country, because of the lack of an adequate water supply under 
pressure, and because of the expense of installing the various pipes 
and connections required for bringing water and carrying away 
waste, the problem is, How can a single house supply its own 
system ? 

A system of waste disposal by running water is still unusual 
in the country. As the study of sanitation goes on, however, various 
systems are worked out, so simple and inexpensive that they can 
be introduced into small rural homes, and opportmiities are thus 
given for every home to have some improved plumbing system. It 
is the duty of the architect and the builder to introduce the most 
modern system and the best materials appropriate to a given house, 
while the" housekeeper should give intelligent cooperation in direct- 
ing the spacing of tubs and sinks so that they will give the best 
service and get the best light. She is the one who should decide 
the quality of installation, whether convenience and efficiency are 
served equally by less expensive fixtures so that funds may be avail- 
able for extra basins and lavatories. If a houseworker is to be 
employed, her quarters should be provided with proper plumbing. 
In the farm home where the hired man must be cared for, separate 
accommodations for him, a lavatory, at least, are more and more 
being included in plumbing installation. 

The first question in astablishing a plumbing system is how to 
get the water ; the next, the kind of water ; and then follows the 
question of what to do with waste water after it is used. Sewage 
disposal is thus a large problem in the plumbing situation. 

21 



22 HOUSEWIFERY 

WATER .srPPl.V 

Water supply in the city is taken as such a matter of course 
that many ]>ersons never think to ask, even, from where or how it 
comes, hut just accept it. The country dweller is usually not so 
fortunate, unless lie lives close to some town or (-ity and is ahle 
to secure connection with its water su{)ply. 

Water must be pure in order to safeguard health. lu purchas- 
ing a residence, one should investigate the purity of the water in 
that neighborhood, its degree of hardness, and tiie kind of minerals 
present in it. In choosing a new source of water supply the greatest 
care nmst be taken to get pure water and to keep it free from con- 
tamijiatioji. The water which is chosen for drinking purjx^ses 
should be carefully examined by an expert before being piped to 
the house. It is not sufficient to send a saJiiple of water to be 
examined but an expert should personally inspect the source of 
supply and the surrounding ground so as to discover possibilities 
of contamination if they exist. 

Kinds of Water. — The chief sources of water for private sys- 
tems are rain or roof water, wells, and sjDrings. There are two 
kinds of water, " hard " water which has certain " salts " in solu- 
tion, and " soft " water. Soft water is free from these salts and 
forms a suds with soap easily and quickly. Eain water, which 
is not necessarily pure water, is the best illustration ofi soft water, 
and is much used in rural districts for all sorts of housework. 

Hard water is either permanently hard or temporarily hard. 
When it is tempuraiihj liard it may be softened by boiling such as 
one does in heating wash water or in boiling water for vegetables. 
The reason boiling softens this water is that the mineral matter is 
held in the water in the form of carbonates, and the boiling drives off 
cajthon dioxide, and in so doing the hardness of the water is 
" broken " and the lime is deposited asi often seen in the teakettle. 

There are j^rocesses for precipitating the mineral water. The 
carbonates are carbonates of chalk or magnesia, and a little lime 
wafter, in the proportion of one gallon to every gallon of the " hard " 
water, will soften the water for drinking purposes. The chemical 
action precijntates the magnesia or lime in an insoluble form. To 
make lime water for softening " temporarily hard " water use a 
lump of good stone lime about the size of an egg to two quarts 
of water. Let the lime settle and throw off the first water. Add 



PLUMBING 23 

a second water, being careful to mix thorouijhly, let stand and settle 
again, and use the clear top liquid. The residue O'f slaked lime 
may be used again, by adding water. 

FennanentliJ lianl ii-ater contains lime in the I'onn of chlorides 
and sulphides, and washing soda or soap will soften the water. This 
method of softening is of course of service only in case the water 
is used for washing. Either soap or washing soda may be used 
in hard water for washing dishes. It is not possible to give a defi- 
nite proportion because the degree of hardness varies greatly in 
different waters. Scraps of soap dissolved in a jar of water will 
make a soap solution which if poured into the water will soften it 
for washing pur^wses. The soda should be kept in solution so as to 
be ready for dish washing, scrubbing, or washing clothes. Make 
the washing soda solution by filling a quart or two-quart glass 
jar with hot water and putting into it all the soda that will dis- 
solve. Use al)out two or three tablespoonfuls of this dissolved 
60'da to the amount of water in a dish pan or one-half cup to one 
cup in a washtub of water. Hot water put on soda crystals will 
dissolve them quickly and easily so there is no excuse for using it 
undissolved ; soda must be dissolved for washing clothes. A wash- 
ing soda is purchasable to-day in powder form for dish washing 
and laundering, which is instantly dissolved in hot water, and is 
not as caustic as ordinary soda and is consequently less harmful 
to the gilt of dishes and to the fabric of clothes. 

For laundry purposes a combined method of softening may be 
used. Heat one pound of soap in' four gallons of water over a low 
fire, then add one pound of soda. This will make a good soap solu- 
tion for soaking clothes and washing where the water is too hard for 
good work. The scum from hard water and soap is called lime soap 
and if allowed to settle on the clothes produces streaks which require 
a great deal of soap to soften them, and sometimes in extreme 
cases kerosene is needed. 

" Hard w^ater soaps " are available, the formula of which is 
adjusted to meet different types of waters in different localities. 

Eain water or roof water is the softest and most suitable water 
available for toilet and laundry purposes, but unless the collecting 
of rain water is done under close supenision the v/ater may be 
most impure.' Rain water for household use is best stored in con- 
tainers called cisterns dug into the earth or built in the cellar. 



24 



HOUSEWIFERY 



The first fall of rain not only washes the air of its impurities but 
also the buildings of their dirt. To keep rain water in good con- 
dition, iirst, have a cut-off iu the pipe so that the first fall of 
rain (for half an hour) may be prevented, from going into the 
cistern; second, as an extra precaution, the water on its journey 
from the roof to the cistern may be led through a filter which may 
be a hogshead filled with gravel or small stones sometimes mixed 
with pieces of chartcoal. In this way the water is filtered as it 
passes through the barrel to go into the cistern. 




Fig. 11. — This pump could easily have been placed near the sink in the kitchen. It 
would have saved much work. 



Water Storage. — Cisterns should be bricked or cemented on 
all sides so that the water in storage will be kept free from dirt 
and contamination. A cistern, like any other water container, 
needs to be cleaned occasionally. The best time to do this is just 
before a usual rainy season when there is a possibility of its being 
filled immediately, because if one is dependent on cistern water it 
is a great handicap to have the cistern emptied for cleaning. The 
aeration from chain or bucket pumps keeps cistern water in much 
better condition than witli a less active pump, like the piston pump. 

Wells like cisterns are home necessities which must be most 



PLUMBING 25 

carefully built aud supervised. The health of the family depends 
upon where they are located, how they are built, and from what 
source they arc filled. Cisterns are filled from roof water. Wells 
are filled from springs or underground streams of water. There 
are two kinds of wells : the driven or drilled well, such as an arte- 
sian well, and dug wells. Driven or drilled wells are made by a 
closed iron pipe being driven down for varying distances, usually 
fifty feet or more, and sometimes as in deep artesian wells several 
hundred feet, through many layers of rock, to find water which 
has filtered its way down. This filtering tends to purify the water 
so that a deep driven well if entirely free from any surface con- 
tamination gives good water. 

Dug wells are cemented or stone bowls which gather and hold 
water that runs in from underground streams or springs. The 
same general conditions shoidd be planned for with the dug well 
as with a driven well. All wells are influenced by the surround- 
ings, SQ for that reason be sure that no cesspool, privy or drainage 
of any kind can reach the spring that feeds the well, or can seep 
in at the top of the well. Do not be satisfied in thinking it is 
pure; have it analyzed — a state department will do it free in some 
states; and have an expert check up possible contamination by 
drainage into the water sujDply. 

Pumps. — Water being present, the next question is, How may 
it be made accessible to the worker ? Some form of pump is neces- 
sary to raise water from a lower level to the point where it is 
needed. There are several types of pumps — the piston pump, chain 
and bucket, force pump, and power pumps oj^erated by Avindmill, 
hydraulic ram, gas engine, or electric motor. 

The piston pump has almost everywhere replaced " the old oaken 
bucket" which was operated on a long sweep, or with a rope and 
windlass; the iron piston pump (Figs. 11, 12) is easier to operate 
and delivers water more rapidly. AYhen the water is low in the well 
or reservoir it is necessary to start or prime the pump by pouring 
down enough water to fill the cylinder. So long as the water is 
deep enough to have it rise in the pipe, the pipe, of course, has 
water in it and is ready to deliver water. The piston is at the 
top of the cylinder, and the beginning stroke raising the handle 
results in forcing the piston down (1) . The valve in the piston opens 
and lets the water pass into the space above it. When the piston 



26 



HOUSEWIFERY 



is at the bottom of the cylinder the water will be above it {2, 3) . The 
iip-journey of the piston forces tlie water into the sj)out (4). 

Bring-ing the piston puinp indoors and connecting it with a 
sink is one great improvement. It need not Ik' j)lacc(l directly 
over the well, as the pmnp will draw the water along a horizontal 
line as well as about thirty feet vertically. 

Chdln and bucket pumps operate l)y means of a crank liandle. 
The water is elevated through a pipe by small buckets which are 






Fig. 12. — Piston pump. 

fastened on an endless chain. These buckets are filled on their 
upward road to deliver water; if the pumping stops, the water 
left drops back through a very small opening in each of the buckets, 
thus working its way back to the cistern by dropping from bucket 
to bucket, and being thoroughly aerated in the process. (This is 
the same principle as aerating boiled water for drinking by pouring 
the water several times from one pitcher to another.) 

Force pumps are piston pumps (Fig. 13, 1 and 2), wliich deliver 
water under pressure so that it can be forced through a pipe to some 
elevation or delivered through a hose for garden purposes. By 
means of a force pump elevated tanks in the attic or elsewhere may 
be filled, and so make possible a gravity home water system. 



PLUMBING 



27 



Gravity Water System. — For a. sj^stem supplied by gravity 
from a spring- a storage tank large enough to hold a supply for two 
or three days is sufficient. With a large elevated spring the tank 
may be dispensed with. In order to provide a gravity system, with- 
out pumping, the spring must be at such a height as to insure 
proper pressure to make the water flow through the pipe to the 




I i-<I^ I <'f'^<Z^ ^ 




Fig. 13. — Types of force pu-mps. 1, water goes out on the down stroke; 2, water goes out 
on both up and down strokes. 

house. The pressure depends upon the size of the pipes, the eleva- 
tion of the spring, and tilie distance of the sj^ring from the house. 
The pipe should be from li/o to 2 inches in diameter unless from 
a spring at great elevation, when a smaller pipe will do. 

If the spring is located below the house, or if the water supply 
is from a well, the water must l^e pumped to the storage tank. 
In this case the size of the tank depends upon how often the owner 
Anshes to pump. Tlie water may be pumped by hand or by power. 
The power may be furnished by a windmill, gasoline or electric 
engine. 



28 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Pumping by Power. — The windmill is a wheel revolved by the 
wind, whicli in turn operates a pump or other device. By means of 
a ■windmill, water may be forced into a tank, and there stored at 
such, an elevated height as to produce through gravity the conven- 
ience of a water system ini all parts of the house and groimds. The 
■pressure at the outlet depends upon the height alx)ve the outlet at 
wdiich the tank is located. 

Hydraulic Ram. — When flowing water, with a fall, is available, 
a hydraulic ram (Fig. 1-1) may be used to force water to a level 
much higher than the source of the supply. For example, on a 
farm, the water from a brook might be pumped to a tank situated 
on a high piece of ground and then distributed by gravity. The 



Spring 




Fig. 14. — Setting of hydraulic ram. 

pumping power of the ram is derived from the force of the falling 
water. For example, a two-inch stream of water falling a few 
feet into the ram will lift a three-fourth inch stream of water 
many times that height into a tank. Such rams are cheap to install 
and cost nothing to operate. 

Gasoline engines are of special service on a farm for power 
of all kinds, including in the house the o|>eration of pumps, wash- 
ing machines, milk separators, etc. In thus operating a pumj), 
fuel is of course required and also more attention than for a •wind- 
mill, but the volume of water pumped is greater ; and when a storage 
tank ihas a good capacity the pumping can be done at intervals 
according to the amount of water used. A li/4-H.P. gasoline engine 
will pump about S^^^ gallons a minute 250 feet high ; it can be 
])urchased for $35 to $45. 

Electric Pumps. — ^^Vhere electric power is available an electric 
motor may be installed directly connected with a water pump. 
Throwing an electric switch starts the pump and little attention 
is required. 



PLUMBING 29 

Tanks. — The cheapest form of tank is one built in the attic 
or on top of the house. Placing the tank in the attic overcomes 
the possibility of freezing but introduces the danger of possible 
damage from leakage. It must be provided with a " clean out " 
and an "overflow^' pipe to prevent leakage into the house. This 
t3'pe of tank is often built on a separate tower outside of the house 
and is sometimes built large enough to supply several houses. 
Elevated tanks are constructed of cedar or oak, bound with metal 
bands, and are often copper or zinc-lined; the tank should be 
painted to prevent its rotting. The cost of complete installation 
of tanks and, pipes is small in amount compared with the conven- 
iences resulting from tlie establislmient of such a system. From 
elevated tanks the water is piped to the various fixtures in the usual 
^y&'y, and flows by gravity. 

Air Pressure Tank System. — Another tank system is the air 
pressure tank system. This system includes a pumping outfit and a 
steel tank located in the cellar and so constructed that two-thirds of 
its capacity may be filled with water pumped in against the pressure 
of the air which fills the other one-third of the tank ; the air is com- 
pressed as the water is pumped in until the air is under about 45 
pounds pressure. The air pressure then forces the ^vater through 
the pipes of the house. 

Installation and Care of Water System. — In case the water 
Bupply system is to be used for the summer season only,' all of the 
piping should be laid on such grades that the entire system can 
be drained in the fall, thereby preventing freezing and destruction 
of the piping system. All the sewage traps in a summer system 
should be drained and filled with oil. 

In case the system is to be used all the year around, every part 
that is exposed, the piping, tanks, etc., should be made frost-proof. 
Piping is made frost-proof by laying it at sufficient distance below 
the surface of the ground and by not laying it in the outer walls 
of a house. Pipes outside the house which are not buried in the 
earth below tlie level at which freezing takes place (some two or 
three feet in the northern states), will freeze and often burst. Stor- 
age tanks must be enclosed and the water kept sufficiently warm 
to prevent freezing. The housewife's responsibility in this matter 
is to watch the original installation of pipes. Inside pipes are 
protected from freezing by not allowing rooms to get too cold. 



30 



HOUSEWIFERY 



However, freeziiifj of ])ipes in kitchen, laundry, or in any room not 
.sufUciently heated, is usually so slig-ht as to be easily thawed out 
by the housewife. 

To Thaw Pipes. — Do not jmt a eandlc under the pipe, a^ that 
■would cause too rapid expansion, and probably burst the pipe. 
Cloths wrung out of hot water, wrapjjed like a bandage, are the 
safest and most successful means of opening a frozen pipe. Lead 
pipes that are frozen will luilge slightly. Iron pipes will not show 
this bulging. A pipe once thawed out may be kept warm by stand- 
ing a lighted candle nearby. 



CE.L.UAR. CUT OFF rdp 
WATER 




Fig. lo. — Cut-off for main water supply of the house. 

Water Stop Cock and Shut-off. — The main water shut-off 
(Fig. 15) in houses is commonly inside the fomidation or cellar 
wall. Be careful that a coal bin or other obstruction is not put 
around or in front of it. This is the direct connection with the 
istreet inflow pij^e, and from this radiates all the water piping 
through the houses. The main thing is to know where it is, and 
that one should turn it off in case of a leak in the house ; to turn 
it off is really nothing more than to turn a faucet. In some cases, 
the turn-off has a regular faucet handle, in other cases one must 
use a \^Tench to turn it. There is usually a turn-off in the cellar 
of the private house, which the housewife should ask to be showTi, 
if she does not already know its location. After shutting off, the 
house pipes should be drained. In apartments the shut-off is often 
in a closet, and under sinks and washbasins the more modern plumb- 
ing has individual shut-offs for each such item of equipment. 

To close the house, see chapter on Storage, page 232. 



PLUMBING 31 

HOUSEHOLD WASTE 

Household waste is of two kinds, organic and inorganic. Ashes, 
tin cans, and bottles are typical inorganic refuse, while garbage and 
sewage are the chief kinds of organic waste. 

Inorganic waste accumulates very rapidly and niu.st be removed. 
It is not only unsightly, but bottles and cans almost always contain 
some organic nratter whicli soon ferments. It is such waste that 
promotes the breeding of flies and vermin. Sometimes this refuse 
is thrown into empty low lots to act as a fillery but such ground is 
thus made undesirable for housebuilding until sufficient time has 
elapsed for the waste organic matter in this refuse entirely to 
decompose. 

Organic waste includes garbage or waste food materials and 
human waste, or excreta, but there may well be considered with 
them the problem of water waste, since hmuan waste and household 
water form the sewage problem where there is a system of pipes 
for running water and pipes for waste disposal (Fig. 16) and 
where ,such a piped system is lacking, the sanitary and convenient 
disposal of human waste and of waste water is a very important 
problem. 

Garbage on the farm should be used as feed as far as possible 
or turned into fertilizer. In the city it is usually hauled away 
to disposal plants because of increasing success in rescuing fats 
for industrial purposes, bones for glue and fertilizer, waste food 
for nitrogen in stock feeding, and finally materials that can be 
used as fuel. 

Household Water Waste. — This concerns water used for bath- 
ing, for dishwashing, for laundering, and for housecleaning. If 
there is a piped system it goes into the sewage. In the absence of 
a plumbing system, all household' waste water, including dishwater 
freed from food particles, can be led by means of a pipe from the 
sink to a garden some distance away from the house., This water 
will he of ser\dce fertilizing the garden. Such a sink and waste 
pipe for disposal of kitchen water should 'be installed in every 
house, on the farm or elsewhere as a minimum convenience, even 
if it is not possible to have more of plumbing and a running water 
supply. Be sure that this waste water flows away from the wells 
or cisterns. 



32 



HOUSEWIFERY 



rUmr -vein 




Fig. 16. — Sanitary plumbing staple. 



Wash water, after 
laundering, i.-^ often used 
iu tlie farm house, where 
water facilities are poor, 
for scrubbing. This is 
good use provided the 
water is clean or that 
the floors are rinsed 
afterwai'd. The soapy 
soiled water one often 
sees in the washtub is 
not clean and will no 
longer clean other 
things . The floors 
washed with such water 
soon turn yellow or gray 
and often are slipper}' 
from the soap. Fixed 
washtul)s can be in- 
stalled just as a sink, to 
be emptied through a 
trough or pipe which 
conducts the water down 
into the garden far 
enough away from the 
house. Clean soapy 
water is a good disin- 
fectant and if poured on 
plants or around the 
roots often keeps a plant 
free from insects. 

Human Waste. — 
The best method of sew- 
age disposal is through 
a public sewer whicli is 
conducted to a com- 
munity sewage disposal 
plant. Wliere there is 
no community system, 



PLUMBING 



33 



the best methods for a single house are the cesspool and septic tank, 
and of these the latter is safer; both of these require running water 
to carry off the waste ; where there is no piped water supply, human 
waste is cared for by the privy. 

Types of Privies. — The simplest method of disposal of human 
waste is by the earth closet (Fig. 17). These closets or privies 



V£A/T/L/irO/i 




LATT/CE 



our HOUSE 

<^^ F/LL/NW/TH 
^^ /L/ ME OR CLAY 
^ V ^^0/i T/M£ro T/ME 



VAULT 



-^'-o- 



FCT 



NO 



<.>.v.-^..X 



Fig. 17. — Outdoor privy vault. When necessary, the superstructure is removed and put 

over a new vault. 



should be dug in sandy soil in, such a position in relation to the 
house and water supply that therie can be no chance whatever of 
contamination. Dry loam or fine sand mixed with particles of 
charcoal or lime should be kept in a box, and, each person using the 
closet should he taught to use sand or loam as a cover, and not to 
throw extra water into the closet. The bacteria in the excreta 
decompose the wastes, and the loam absorbs the odor. Besides 
the danger from drainage, one meets another danger quite as immi- 
nent and serious, that is the contamination from flies. All waste 
vaults such as privies and manure piles, should be screened so that 
the access of flies is impossible. 
3 



34 



HOUSEWIFERY 




REMOVABLE 
RECEPTACLE 



LOAM 
COMPARTMENT 




Figs. 18 and 19. — Two forms of earth closets. 



When the closet has to be emptied the best care of the waste 
is by burying. This involves another big question, Where and 
how to bury? ^Tiere — how far away from the house, and how — at 



PLUMBING 



35 



so low a level that there can be uo question of wastes getting into 
surface water or into the water supply? This becomes an indi- 
vidual question answered by the contour of the land, its drainage, 
and its relationship through drainage to the water supply. For 
convenience and protection, the closet is often brought too near 
the house, but that is l)etter decided by the natural drainage from 
the privy and how it affects conditions of a surrounding and, lower 
level. 

Some water closets are built of the type of drawer containers 
(Figs. 18 and 19). The drawer should be a galvanized iron box 




Fig. 20.— Flush clcset. 



and must also be kept in good condition by means of sand and 
lime and charcoal. 

Another method is to build a water-tight concrete vault and 
remove the superstructure to a duplicate vault when the first is 
filled, being careful to cover the abandoned vault; the first vault 
may be re-uscd after fermentation has destroyed its contents. 

Flush Closets. — Flush closets are of course the modern way of 
caring for human waste where there is a piped water supply. Flush 
closets are connected with the water system of the house and should 
be planned to have a free flow of water to flush waste down and 
out. There are two types of closets, one called the " open flush " 
(Fig. 20), and the other called the " siphon." Both of these closets 
are to have connected with them in the plumbing an efficient water 
trap, and both are also partial traps themselves, because they always 
contain water. The care of the flush closet requires not only that 
it be flushed each time it is used, but that it be so flushed as to 



36 



HOUSEWIFERY 



insure clean water jiot only in the bowl of tlie closet but in the trap 
below. Flush closets in country houses are emptied into septic 
tanks or cessjwols, and those in city dwellings into the sewage 
system. 

For cleaning flush closets, see chapter on Cleaning and Care, 
page 258. 

Water Traps. — Water traps are bends or enlargements in waste 
pipes which, as the water goes down the pipe, hold the last lot of 
water so that water constantly stands in the pipe, sealing it against 
the inflow of sewer gas through the pipe into the house. As more 



irz 



RUNNING TRAP 




S TRAP 



HALF S TRAP 




'r=' 




w^ 



,S' TRAP WITH VENT 
AND CLEAN OUT HOLE 



S TRAP WITH CLEAN 
OUT HOLE AND COVER 



FiQ. 21. — Types of traps. 



water from above flows into the pipe, the water in the trap over- 
flows off down the pipe, alwaj's leaving the trap level full. 

The common forms of traps (Fig. 21) are the U-tube, the S, 
and the Half-S traps. 

It will he seen at once that the water that is allowed to remain 
in the trap after the use of the sink, tul), or flush closet ought to 
he clean water, other«'ise there can he not only disagreeable odors 
but more or less unhealthy conditions from this w^ater which con- 
tains waste. Tvet it be the housewife's 'concern to teach the flooding 
of all traps after use. - Kitchen sinks are often gradually stopped 



PLUMBING 



37 




up because of the grease in dishwater cooling and hardening on the 
sides of the pipes and trap. Continued repetition of this naturally 
closes the trap with the stoppage of grease. This causes an expense 
which could easily have been warded off had the sink after every 
dishwashing had a thorough flooding, before this grease had hard- 
ened, with hot water which would have melted and carried off the 
grease. See chapter on Cleaning and Care, page 266. 

Orease traps are often put in with the plumbing connection in 
kitchen sinks, especially in large hotel or institution kitchens. This 
grease trap (Fig. 22) allows a storage 
of grease which may be taken out 
later and sold to the soap factory or 
used for home-made soap. 

Sewage Disposal Without 
Community Sewers. — "Where run- 
ning water is available, but with no 
community sewers, a single house 
may dispose of the human waste and 
waste water by running its own sewer 
pipe into a private cesspool or septic 
tank. This requires proper provision 
of water traps, and, if desired, a 
grease trap, on the waste water 
piping. 

Cesspools. — ^Cesspools may be 
built some thirty feet away from the 
house, choosing, if possible, a sandy 

soil for the outlet. Cesspools were originally built by making a well- 
like cistern (Fig. 23) lined with wood or stone which was to receive 
the waste from the house ; the liquid material then leached through 
the sandy bottom, and the solid waste remained behind to purify 
itself by its own bacterial action. 

The cesspool is likely to become a constant source of contamina- 
tion to the water supply, as the liquid containing organic waste 
leaches out and contaminates the surrounding soil, and is very likely 
to reach the well or cistern. The cesspool may also become a 
nuisance by overflowing, if the soil is not porous enough to absorb 
the liquid. Tt may be necessary to empty out the cesspool in order 
to remove the sediment which has collected in too srreat amounts. 



Fig. 22. — Grease trap. Composed 
of an inner chamber into which the 
waste water and grease pass, and an 
outer chamber through which the cold 
water supply for the house flows. The 
circulation of cold water around the 
outside chills or congeals the grease 
entering into the inner chamber; the 
grease, being lighter than water, 
gathers at the top and is thus pre- 
vented from passing through the 
outlet. 



38 



HOUSEWIFERY 



J'iie l're(|ueijey witli wiik-h this juust he done depends on the ])orosity 
of tile soil ; soiuct iiiics it is never necessary. 

The Septic Tank (Fig. 24) is a more satisfactory method of 
sewage disposal. 'J'liis tank is made entirely of concrete, is box- 




FiG. 23. — Leaching cess-pool. 



J L 



,psr-,. 



5CU/1 BO/Jff/? 



u 



^ 



\-~-r:^ 



CO/VC/?£r£ 



Fig. 24.— Septic tank. 



shaped, and three times as long as wide ; and the size varies with 
the number of persons living in the house with which the tank is 
connected, and also depends upon whetlier the total outflow from 



PLUMBING 39 

the house passes through the tauk, or ouly the outllovv from the 
closets. 

Assuming that iio water is used during the eight sleeping hours, 
the tank is made of such a size as to hold the How during eight 
hours, the entire flow pas^;ing through in sixteen hours; that is, 
the tank is made large enough to hold one-half of the entire quan- 
tity of water used per day. For example: take a family of five. 
The total water supply should he 100 gallons per person per day or 
500 gallons per day. If the entire flow passes through the septic 
tank, the tank should be large enough to hold half this quantity, 
or 350 gallons. This necessitates a tank of SSiXj cu. ft. capacity. 
If the outflow only from the closets passes through the tank, then 
the tank need be only large enough to hold 10 gallons per person 
per day, or for a family of five large enough to hold 50 gallons, 
or about 7 cu. ft. 

The outflow from the house passes through a pipe G" or 8" 
in diameter to the tank. A trap should be placed between the house 
and the tank to prevent any gas passing back into the house. The 
liquid passes into the first compartment of the tank, where much 
of the sediment sinks to the bottom, then up over the partition which 
is built just higher than the mouth of the inlet pipe. In the second 
compartment a scum-board is placed to keep back any scum which 
rises to the top of the liquid. The outlet pipe should have an 
elbow extending down about 8" or 10" below the surface. The 
liquid finally passing through the outlet is practically clear but is 
not purified. A man-hole opening is constructed partly over each 
of the two compartments so that in case of necessity the tank may 
be opened and cleaned out and the sediment removed and buried. 
It may be necessary to remove the sediment every six months, or 
so little sediment may accumulate that it may never be necessary 
to remove it, depending upon the length of time the house is used 
during the year. 

The disposal of the outflow of the tank is very important. With 
the proper care this outflow, together with the outflow from the 
bathtubs, sinks, and washtubs, which may not pass through the 
septic tank, may be used to advantage in irrigation of the garden 
or some nearby field. The liquid may be used in irrigation either 
by surface irrigation, which is accomplished by means of ditches 
through the cultivated area; or by subsoil irrigation, in which case 



40 HOUSEWIFERY 

the outflow is led through the cultivated area hy mcana of drain 
pipes, having open joints underneath the furrows. In both meth- 
ods the results are best accomplished in porous soils. If the soil 
is not ])orous more active cidtivation luust ])e carried on to have 
the liquid absorbed. 

The question of whether all the water waste of the house should 
])ass through the septic tank or not is a matter of opinion among 
sajiitary experts. If all the water passes through, the tank must 
be made larger and there is a greater amount of liquid contaminated 
by organic matter. Another disadvantage of having all the waste 
pass through the septic tank is that the grease from tlio kik'hen 
sink is likely to become a nuisance by fomiing a film of grease on 
the tank and pipes and in the irrigation ditches. To prevent this 
a grease trap should he installed in the pipe leading from the 
kitchen sink, and all water run through it into the septic tank. 

When ,one realizes the seriousness of the problem of the care 
of waste, it will be seen that the cost of the septic tank is very 
slight in comparison with the cost of the risk involved in the drain- 
age from either poorly built or carelessly operated cesspools and 
privies. The privy must l)e kept dry so that the bacterial action 
will destroy the material without the risk of seepage into the 
water supply. 

PLI^IBING FIXTURES 

All metal fixtures should be of good quality, the poorer quality 
while cheaper at first will require much care and soon will require 
refinishing. While the best quality for bathroom fixtures is silver- 
plated, the material usually chosen is first quality nickel, but to 
keep this in good condition it should be cleaned by carefully wash- 
ing and wiping dry, and as far as possible cleaned without the 
use of strong metal polishes. Xickel is a coating on another metal, 
and naturally the friction as well as the chemical action of strong 
cleansers will remove this surface finish. 

Faucets. — For the kitchen and laundry brass fixtures are usu- 
ally chosen. They will oxidize, forming a green deposit of copper 
oxide, so that brass fixtures will need a good deal of care. Of the 
metal faucets, then, nickel kept free from chemicals and scratchy 
cleaners will give the hest results at a medium first cost. 

Enamel for handles is extensively used in the more modern 




PLUMBING 41 

plumbing fixtures, first gaining use in connection with the sanitary 
outfit required in hospitals. The great advantage is the elimina- 
tion of the extra work of polishing metals, the great disadvantage is 
its cost. This may he more than halanced by the saving in money 
and work on a metal handle. They are more 
expensive tlian nickel and less so than silver- 
plated handles. 

The choice of faucet is an important item. 
Usually a screw (Fig. 25) or level faucet that 
stays open, until closed, is preferred, but 
where water rates are higli, spring faucets 
that stay open only so long as held open may 
sometimes be chosen. , 

Foot-pressure faucets are used in cases fig. 25.— a typical spigot, 
where the hand must be free for other work 

or where it is a disadvantage to touch a common handle such as in 
operating rooms in hospitals. This device would be of great con- 
venience in a kitchen where spring faucets are to be installed to save 
water, because it is a great hindrance to work at the sink and have to 
hold the faucets open. 

Goose-neck faucets (Fig. 26), those with a high curved dis- 
charge pipe, are most useful in the pantry to assist in filling water 
l)ottles or pitchers. 

As dishwashing devices (Fig. 27) and machines and washing 
machines are being more and more used, extra faucets which are 
connected with hot and cold water supply can be installed at various 
Avorking points with little expense and great advantage. Such a 
faucet should have a screw end and then by means of a rubber hose 
either or both kinds of water -can be easily drawn from a combina- 
tion faucet such as is used in a bathtub. 

On the outside of the house one should plan either plug or 
faucet attachments to he used for cleaning porches, watering flower 
beds, and for fire emergency. 

Leaky Faucets. — Before repairing a faucet, close the house 
shut-ofi^, otherwise when you begin to take the faucet apart, tlie 
water will spurt out and flood the room. In modern plumbing the 
pipes often have individual stopcocks under each fixture so it is 
not necessary to shut off all the house water supply to fix a faucet. 
In the absence of such a shut-off, all the water will have to be turned 



42 



HOUSEWIFERY 



(ill'. The faucet leaks because the leather or rubl)er washer on the 
end ul' the screw has worn with constant use and does not fit the 
oipening through which the water tlows. This washer is held in 
place with a screw or nut and the worn washer must be replaced 
by a new one. To do this loosen the big nut around the stem and 
take out tlie stem. IJemove the old washer from the end of the 
block and pnt on a new one. Eeplace the stem in the faucet and 



Fig. 26. 



Fi. 





Fic. 2(). — Porcelain sink, showing 
sink strainer and goose-neck faucet. 
Such an outfit is especially good for 
the laboratory; also for pantry. 



Fig. 27. — Dish-washing device. 



reset the big nut, using a monkey-wrench to turn it and make it so 
tight that it does not loosen when the faucet is used. 

Filters. — Filters, when in the kitchen, are connected with the 
sink plumbing. They should be so placed as to be convenient for 
use in the kitchen, and to make the cleaning of the filter easy. It is 
a common belief that filters once installed are good for all time. 
Instead, they need very close supervision in order that they them- 
selves may not become a breeding-place for bacteria. The filter 



PLUMBING 48 

should supply clean water, and the better types with proper care 
do supply i:)ure water, that is, free from bacteria. 

Filtration means passing water through some medium with such 
close crevices and pores as to prohibit the passage of particles of 
dirt. If the pores of the filtering medium are of microscopic size, 
they keep back the germs as well as the dirt and such a filter is 
called germ proof. All sorts of cheaper filters have found their 
way into homes, with fillings of cotton batting, picked cotton or 
asbestos, sand, gravel, or broken charcoal. Many of these filters 
are built to be screwed to the cold water faucet. These filters will 
clean water as long as they are clean themselves, although they 
will never remove all bacteria, and be proof against germs and 
disease. In most cases they hold about a teacup of filler and so 
small an amount soon becomes oversaturated with dirt. Tliose with 
pads are to have the pad changed frequently, even daily. Directions 
given for many of these filters say to reverse the filter and flood with 
water to clean it. If this is done at least once a day, and the filter 
contents and all are boiled, there is a possibility that clean water 
might be attained, but no one would 'call it germ proof. 

The many approved filters on the market are of the Pasteur 
type, which consist of a hollow cylinder of fine unglazed porcelain, 
called the candle^ which is enclosed by one of metal, or glass. 
This outer cylinder is connected with the supply pipe and by means 
of the force of the M'ater system the water to be filtered is forced 
through the pores of the porcelain to the inside of the candle ; then 
dropping into the reservoir, it leaves the suspended matter as a 
coating on the exterior of the porcelain candle. Such water is 
germ proof if the filtration is not continued too many days. The 
length of time during which a sterile filtration may be obtained 
depends upon the temperature of the filter and its contents; at a 
temperature of 72° Fahr. the filter is said to be sterile for nine 
flays, while at 95° Fahr. the time is only five days. 

In some localities these filters may be rented per month with 
care assumed by the firm which rents. In such cases the filters 
should be inspected regularly and at not too long intervals; At 
this time, new caudles are put in to replace the old ones which go 
to the factory to be baked in large ovens and rendered sterile. 

Sinks. — The first thing to consirler is the standard requirement 
of a sink. It should be smooth, easily cleaned, non-absorbent, and 



44 HOUSEWIFERY 

uou-rusting. The materials used are wood, iron, slate, soapstone 
(ojie grade of which is called albcrene), copper, enamel-lined iron, 
and ])()rcelain : the ])rices increase in the order named. 

Sink Materials. — Wood: Many of the early sinks were made 
of wood, and a lew wooden ones are used to-day. The only advan- 
tage of wood is that, iu institutions where dishes may be washed in 
the sink, there is less danger of the dishes being chipped. The 
disadvantages so outnumber the advantages that in modern homes 
a wooden sink is not considered. It soaks water, becomes slimy, 
slowly softens, rots and splinters. It is almost impossible to keep it 
sweet-smelling, and free from grease. 

Galvanized Iron. — Galvanized iron sinks are cheap and durable 
and can easily be kept clean and free from grease. The greatest 
disadvantage is that if the galvanized coating is worn off, it will 
become rusted. A few drops of oil "\nped over the surface will help 
to prevent laist. 

Slate. — Both slate sinks and soapstone sinks are smooth, inex- 
pensive, and easily kept clean. However, there will be a gi'adual 
absorption of grease, which penetrates the material and which is 
impossible to remove. 

Copper. — Copper sinks are seldom used except in pantries. They 
require much care to keep them clean and bright. 

Enamel-lined and Porcelain. — Either of these materials would 
be the first choice of every housekeeper. Enamel is^^ as the word 
implies, an enamel covering on a metal surface, made like an 
enamel or agate saucepan, while the porcelain is like an earthen- 
ware bowl, molded and baked. The quality of the enamel is deter- 
mined by its thickness, and its freedom from blisters, which cause 
chipping. If a stain once gets under the surface of enamel, it is 
beyond the reach of any cleaning agent. Care is necessaiT ^vith 
both enamel and porcelain, because a sharp blow of any kind may 
result in cracking or chipping the surface finish. 

Size of Sinks. — This is an important consideration, l)ecause a 
small sink means that it is impossible to wash and rinse dishes 
easily and without breakage. A shallow sink will be more easily 
kept in good condition than one which is so deep that it becomes a 
shallow tub. One chooses a tub-shaped sinlc only as a slop sink, 
or in institutions, for washing vegetables. A good general size 



PLUMBING 



45 



is one large enough so that washing and rinsing pans may both 
stand in the sint. 

Drain Outlet. — ^The drain ontlet should be flat with small 
ojjenings so that, to a certain extent, it acts as a sieve, keeping back 
larger particles. Were it fine enough for the smallest bits of food, 
it would be too fine for rapid drainage. Some sinks are built with 




Fig. 28. — Well-planned sink. The working center is made complete by the excellent 
arrangement of windows, drawers, cupboards and the proximity of cabinet. 



the outlet slightly sunken below the level of the sink; this is a 
great disadvantage, Tjecause it requires special care to keep it clean. 

Sink-strainers should be kept at one end of the sink and should 
lie used to prevent small particles getting into the trap. 

Drain Boards. — Two drain boards, if space permits, are more 
satisfactory than one, because they make possible the separating 
and classifying of the dishes. These drain -boards are usually of 
hard Avood, most often oak, and should be grooved, with the grooves 
just deep enough to carry off the water; if they are too deep they 



46 HOUSEWIFERY 

AvilL he hard to clean, hi limited spaces, it is often found an 
advantage to mount the drain hoard on an extension fixture, which 
alloAvs tile hoard when not in use to he pushed up against the wail, 
all of wliich is a great help in cleaning under the sink. If drawers 
or cupl)oards (Fig. 28) are built under these drain hoards, either 
Iniild them so that they fit tightly and solidly to the wall, base- 
l)oard and floor, and prevent collection of dust and water; or build 
them on rollers so that they may be easily rolled out for frequent 
cleaning. In either case the cupboards must leave the plumbing 
quite open and must be proof against leaks and dirt. 




Fig. 20.— Sink with twu drainboards. 

Open Plumbing. — Building drawers and closets under the 
drain hoard or sink should, in no way close in a trap, because it 
must allow for thorough cleaning, and because it is a principle of 
sanitation to-day that all plumbing should be open so that traps 
are easily accessible (Fig. 29). A kitchen of good size need not 
have anything under the sink except perhaps the worker's stool. 
Towel racks and shelves are more out of the way above the drain 
level than below it. 

Space-saving Sinks. — The idea of space-saving illustrated by 
built-in closets and drawers, may be further carried out in small 
kitchens hy using appliances which combine sinks and washtubs, 
the former setting into the top of the latter, each having its own 
faucets, so that either is complete without depending upon the 
other. The drain of the sink meets an extension drain in the side 
of the tul), so that the washtub is in no way soiled by the waste 



PLUMBING 47 

water from the sink. A sink mounted in this way is higher than 
most sinks, and is an excellent illustration of the saving of strain 
upon the back of the v^-orker resulting from sinks set at the 
proper height. 

Slop Sinks. — Slop sinks are low, sinks used for waste water 
only. They are an especial advantage in institutions where there 
is much waste water like that from scrubbing, and many house- 
keepers like one on each floor. They are so much lower and deeper 
than a sink or washbasin, that they reduce the work of lifting 
pails of water, and also reduce the chance of splashing water. 

Washtubs. — The discussion of materials for sinks may apply, 
in a measure, to washtubs. Wooden washtubs which are not used 
every day are likel}'' to shrink, causing the cracks to open, with 
consequent leakage. A wooden washtub, like a wooden washing 
machine, should be stored in a cellar, where moisture is more or 
less prevalent, or it may be necessary to keep a wet sponge in the 
tub to prevent drying. Of course any constant moisture is apt to 
attract roaches. 

Galvanized iron tubs give veiy good service, if care is taken to 
prevent the scraping or wearing off of the galvanized coating. Any 
rust spots will, of course, stain clothing. 

Slate and soapstone make cheap and durable washtubs. 

Enamel and porcelain are, as in the case of the sinks, the most 
desirable materials for washtubs, because smooth and easily kept 
perfectly clean; although yellow porcelain is sometimes used, white 
is the best color, as the clearness of the water is more easily tested. 
as well as the depth of color in the bluewater. 

Height of Sinks and Tubs. — The placing of tubs and sinks is 
a matter over which the housekeeper must have very close super- 
vision, because until the plulnbing laws require a plumber to raise 
the height of kitchen sinks and washtubs, they will be too low 
for almost every woman old enough to work at them (Fig. 30). 
" Standards " or supports for sinks that are molded out of porce- 
lain or cast out of iron are obtainable ; but in order to get the 
right height, gas piping, which may be cut any length, may be 
used for legs. If this is to be done, be sure the plumber under- 
stands that the molded supports will not be needed. With some 
tyipes of molded supports, the standard inay be lengthened by 
attaching a small enamel extension by means of a metal bracelet 



48 



HOUSEWIFERY 



(Fig. 31). It Avill be wise to look into the question of cost because 
gas piping can be painted with aluminum paint, or white enamel 
paint, for that matter, and can easily be cleaned and is u chea}) and 
satisfactory support. 

The l)est height is that one which keeps the worker's arms bent 
at a right angle at the elhow. This position insures a straight 




Fic ^u. — .'iiuk only 



jU 111 I (I nt t 111, II lit, Ix'caiiso it Is srt tuo li.w fur tli 
btiindaid of sink materials and drainboards good. 



The 



back, good poise of the body, and less fatigue. The depth of the 
sink must be considered in determining the height that is desired, 
for a shallow sink can be placed higher than a deep one. So long 
as the majority of sinks are too low it would be much wiser to plan 
for the usual worker's height, 5' 5"— 5' fi"— 5' 7", and set the sinks 
accordingly about 34" — 40" from top of sink to floor; washtubs 
should be 36" to 40" from top to floor; then for the unusually short 



PLUMBING 49 

worker a platform would make her work more comfortable, with 
no fatigue from a bad position. The objection to a platform, that 
it causes much stepping up and down, may be overcome by the 
use of large drain boards at each side, and by having the platform 




Fig. 31. — This shows the bracelet extension which may be used to raise all low sinks. This 
sink is divided to f urnisli a place for washing and rinsing dishes. 

large enough to allow the worker to step about without having to 
step off. Such a platform, even if not needed by the housekeeper, 
makes it possible for older children to take their share of dish- 
washing without the fatigue of overreaching, and without tlie accom- 
panying splashing caused by the height of Avork and worker not 
4 



r)() 



IIOUS]<:\VIl'KRY 



bt'iiig adjiLsted to vavh other. The device of a luovahle phitrorm lor 
chihlren wiJl he fouud very useful in all lavatories; it greatly re- 
I luces (he mothers' task in washiii"- hands and faces. 




A ■well-arranged bathroom. 



Bathtubs. — The cheapest hathtub is one of tin, either painted 
or brig-ht finished. It requires a ji;reat amount of care, and needs 
to be renovated at least once a year, making it in the end an expen- 
sive tub. 



PLUMBING 51 

The enamel or porcelain tub is by far the most satisfactory. A 
porcehiin bathtub is very exjjensive, and really gives no better ser\'ice 
than the heavy enamel (Fig. 32). The newest porcelain tubs are 
made without legs, set directly into the corner, and flat upon the 
floor, so that there is no chance for dust to gather under them. 
For material:^, see Sinks, page 43. 

Washbasins. — Washbasins are of either marble, enamel, or por- 
celain. Marble is more or less absorbent, and is affected by acids, 
which destroy the glaze. Enamel or porcelain is more satisfactory 
in all ways. Enamel-lined or porcelain would be the first choice 
of every housekeeper. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 
1. What is tlH> ])iirpose of a pluniliiiifi- systeir. ? Draw a diatiTaiii of a 

general plumbing system. 
-. Where sliould "clean-outs" be placed? Why? Describe method of 

jjrocedure in case of stoppage. 
;;. \Vliy should you not have a perfectly straight pipe as an outlet to a 

sink or washbasin ? 

4. What do you consider the best substitute for a flush closet? Why? 

5. What is the purpose of a shut-off? Where should it be placed? 

What is a " stop and waste '" ? What is a street box ? 
(i. Considering the cost of building a brick or cement cistci-n, is the use 
of rain water economical? Why? 

7. Why should water from hot-water boilers never l;e used for drink- 

ing water ? 

8. How can hard water be converted into good water for laundering? 

9. How could\he housewife test the soil for absorption and hence rapid 

drainage? 

REFERENCES 

Bailey, E. II. S., Sanitary and Applied Chemistry. Macmillan Co. 

Broadhurst, Jean, Home and Community Hygiene. J. B. Lippincott Co. 

Clark, T. M., T'he Care of the House. Macmillan Co. 

Co.sGKOVE, J. J., Principles and Practice oi'^ Plumbing. Standard Plumb- 
ing and INIanufacturing Co. 

Harrington, Charles, Practical Hygiene. Ginn & Co. 

Hering-Shaw, a., Domestic Sanitation and Plumbing. 1). Van Nos- 
trand Co. 

HoGDON, D. R., Elementary General Science. Hinds, Hayden & 
Eldridge. 

Keene, E. S., ^Mechanics of the Household. McGraw-Hill Book Co. 

Lawler, J. J., INIodern Plumbing, Steam and Hot- Water Heating. Popu- 
lar Publishing Co. 

Lynde, C. J., Physics of the Household. Macmillan Co. 

Ogden, Henry N., Rural Hygiene. Macmillan Co. 

^YILsoN, E. T., Modern CoN\Ti:NiENCES for Farm Home. U. S. Dcpt. of 
Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 270. 

WiNSLOW, C. E. A., Sewage Disposal. John Wylie & Sons. 

Wood, H. B., Sanitation Practically Applied. John Wylie & Sons. 



CHAPTETJ TIT 

HEATING AND LIGHTING 

Heating and lighting are as essential in their way as is plumb- 
ing. As modern plumbing, which is dependent upon water and 
sewer systems, makes jK)ssible greater conveniences in a house, so 
community lighting, and, in apartments, a common heating plant 
oft'er added comforts. Rural districts suffer a handicap, because, 
although the use of electric lighting is increasing, there is often 
no conmiunity lighting systetm, and the individual rural home must 
have its separate lighting arrangements as well as its separate 
stoves or furnace. The advance of time has made available for the 
comitry fuels which may take the place of city gas and electricity. 
Where the rural home has not adopted them, it is not 'because they 
are necessarily exjDensive ; (but because they are new in idea or the 
housewife has not taken time to consider the new device or mechan- 
ism which in the end would mean so much saving to her. Some 
of these other fuels (other than gas and electricity) which are most 
adaptable for heat and for cooking, are gasoline, kerosene, and 
acetylene. Kerosene, acetylene, and Presto (compressed acetylene) 
are used for both heat and light. 

Humidity and the Heating Problem, — Recent investigation 
has sho^^ii that comfortable artificial heating is as much a problem 
of keeping the air moist as it is of burning fuel in the stove or 
furnace. This can be easily accomplished hy putting water on the 
stove or radiator and letting it evaporate in the room. A consid- 
erate quantity of water is needed,, so that it is a matter of con- 
stantly renewing the water as it evaporates. 

Ventilation is brought about by circulation of air. Nature's 
law of gases will automatically control ventilation, because it pro- 
vides that heated air rise and leave room for cold air to enter and 
fill the lower level. This air, in turn, heats and rises, and the air 
cycle which promotes ventilation is produced. 

In the cook stove flues or openings increase the ventilation ; and 
52 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 53 

ill rooms spaces must be allowed for heated air to pass up and out. 
A room with fresh air heats more rapidly than one with stale. 
used air. With these two facts as a working basis, various sugges- 
tions may be given for ventilation. 

Suggestions for Ventilation. — Lower window from the top. 

Lower window from the top and raise from the bottom. 

Have a window open and door opposite also open. 

Use a window board, so that the air may sift in l>etween the 
sashes. 

Use a ventilator which is on the principle of a window board; 
manufactured ventilators usually have some form of shutter or pipe 
that can be regulated. 

Doors opening into hallways and the hall act as a flue. 

A grate with a fire or a candle burning in it will ventilate with- 
out windows being open. 

In sick rooms cool, moist air may be supplied by hanging up 
a sheet which has been wrung out of cold water. As fast as it 
dries, remoisten. 

FUELS 

Fuel is food for the fire. It is rated in value in proportion as 
it produces heat for its cost and volume. Its price is controlled 
partly by the proximity of the supply to the local market; its effi- 
ciency in the home is rated by its freedom from dirt and odor, and 
the ease with which it is used ; its economy by the amount needed to 
produce the required heat quickly and by its freedom from waste. 

Wood burns rapidly and makes an intensely hot fire, but a fire 
of short duration, and unless one has an abundance of wood fuel at 
hand at little cost, it is a very expensive fuel. A wood fire is not 
so easy to keep as coal; but if it is possible to have two types of 
wood, the light softer wood being used for quick burning and the 
heavier hard wood for slow burning, the wood fire can be operated at 
much less cost, and at greater convenience. 

Coal. — Of the two types of coal, hard and soft, hard coal is 
especially serviceable because of its freedom from the excess gases 
which are still in the soft coal. As hard coal is likely to corrode 
flues, careful attention will have to be given to the care of the flues. 



54 HOUSEWIFERY 

{great lieat 
biinis slowly 
little care 

[^ liigli Imriiing jjoint 
JJisad vantages -j cost liigli 

[ corrodes Hue 

Soft coal-Advantages. ( Y ''"™'"^' ^'°'"^ 
^ \ cheap 

( less heat 
DisadvantagesJ dirty 
[ smoke 

low burning point 
Wood — Advantages -j little ash 



clean 

less heat 

I.. , , I rapid burning 

iJisadvantaties< ' . '=' 

expensive 

requires watching 

Coke is a charcoal made from soft coal when heated iu orreat 
ovens witli a small supply of air. it is secured, in most part, as 
a residue from coal in the manufacture of illuminating gas, and it 
is a cheaper fuel than coal. It has a low burning point and so is 
espe'cially good for cjuick kitchen work. 

Charcoal, which is made by i)artially burning wood, is more 
porous than either coke or soft coal, Imrsting into flame at low 
temperature, and is often used for broiling, since broiling over 
charcoal gives a special flavor. 

Coal dust, which is so often wasted, is made into molded 
l)ricks, known as "briquettes,'' and is available in some markets. 
These l)ricks are used as lumps of coal. The greatest disadvantage 
of this type of substitute coal is,a very hea^^ smoke which is given 
otf in the first few minutes of its burning. 

Other fuels, in some localities, play an important part: kero- 
sene, gasoline, alcohol, acetylene, Presto-lite, gas, and electricity. 
These fuels each require a different type of burner, and vary in 
price under different conditions. 

Kerosene is an oil which has a strong odor, burns with an odor, 
and is a fuel wliich necessitates much cleaning and care. Usually 
a wick IS used in the lamp or stove to feed the flame with fuel. 
In the modern heaters, the oil is vaporized and so may burn with- 
out a wick. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 55 

Alcohol is an expensive fuel, but with a vaporizing burner has 
good heating power. One would hardly consider it, however, as 
a regular cooking or heating fuel. Wood alcohol and denatured 
alcohol are much less expensive than grain alcohol, which can not 
practically be considered a fuel because of its expense. Alcohol is 
easily used in little individual burners in traveling, with solf- 
heating irons, and with various devices for heating water, chafing 
dishes, curling irons,, etc. An alcohol stove is shown in Fig. 33. 




Fig. 33. — Alcohol stove. Tank in the back. 

Canned Heat and Light. — Solid alcohol, or canned heat, as 
it is sometimes called, is another emergency fuel which is available 
in small tin cans and is burned in its container without a special 
stove. Presto-lite might be spoken of as canned gas, in that tanks 
of Presto-lite or compressed acetylene gas, like tanks of oxygen, 
may be purchased and used. (See Acetylene below.) 

Gasoline is a fuel that gives satisfactory service as a cooking 
fuel. Its disadvantages are its expense, and, more important, its 
danger. It vaporizes easily, mixes with air readily, and is most 
inflammable. It introduces a danger which, so long as there are 
so many other fuels equally as good, if not better, it is not necessary 
to incur. 

Acetylene is a gas produced by allowing water to come in con- 
tact with calcium carbide. Acetylene is a poisonous gas, but will 
not explode unless it is under pressure, or until mixed with air. 



56 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 31. — lutcriur uf ii gas iiictcr, sliowing the l)cll<iws artiijii. Courtesy of tlie Bureau of 
Standards, Washington, D. C. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 57 

Because of the gas being poisonous, one should be extremely careful 
that all burner connections are tight, and that by no chance the 
flame be turned so low that it would be likely to blow out. The car- 
l)ide is purchased in water-tight containers and is perfectly safe so 
long a^ kept dry and in a well ventilated storage place. The iTa- 
tional Fire Underwriters issue rules which will serve as cautions. 
These can be obtained by writing to the office in any large city. 

Gas, which is an invisil)le vapor secured from coal by heating, 
is used for lighting, heating, and cooking. In some localities 
natural gas is substituted for manufactured gas. Natural gas is 
obtained from the depths of the earth and is piped like oil or 



8)1 8 ^^ 2' 
€.53 

Fig. 35. — Gas meter — index reads 79,500 cubic feet. 

water; it extends into the earth in veins which are so connected 
that if a second vein is tapped, the first may give out. Both manu- 
factured and natural gas are furnished to consumers by companies 
that meter the gas (Fig. 3-i) and charge for it so much per thou- 
sand cubic feet. The cost price may be represented at about $.25- 
$.30 per thousand cubic feet for natural gas, and $.80-$1.00 for 
manufactured gas. 

Zo Bead the Meter (Fig. 35).— The dial on the right hand 
(marked 1 thousand) indicates 100 feet between any two figures; 
the middle dial indicates 1,000 feet between^ figures ; and the dial on 
the left indicates 10,000 feet between figures. In reading, always 
read the lesser of the two numbers between which the hand rests. 
For examjjle, the meter as shown reads 500 plus 9,000 plus 70,000, 
or 79,500 feet. The amount of gas used in a month would be the 
difference between the reading taken at the beginning of the month 
and the one taken at the end of the month. 

Gas is distributed by small pipes and is controlled by stop cock? 



58 



HOUSEWIFERY 



and individual hurnci's of \iii'ii»us shapes (Figs. .Ki and ;57). For 
heating, cooking, and iiu juulcsccnt lighting, an air niixur com- 
monly known as the lUmscii hurncr mixes the right |Muportioii ol 
air and gas so that it will hiii'ii witli a l)lue flame and give the 
greatest heat. (Jas unmixed with air burns yellow like a kerosene 
lamp and deposits soot in cooking. Bo sure that the ilame of the 
gas stove burns blue; a yellow tip to the flame meaus that there is 
not enough air going in at the mixer, which is between the stojj 




Fig. 30. — Bluefianie for heat, 
as produced by the Bunsen burner 
which has holes for intake of air, 
which mixes with the gas before 
burning. 





Fig. 37. — Yellow flame for light. This flame has no 
chance for air until at the point of burning. 



cock and the flame. This is overcome by opening the ventilator 
into the mixer. A Ihime that pops dii lighting and on turning out 
has too much air. 

Gcus pilot lights on gas heating and lighting appliances are a 
great convenience. A pilot light is a small gas jet which burns 
constantly near the burners on gas ranges, heaters, and light fix-- 
tures, and is used to ignite the gas as the valve or cock is opened. 
One must not feel that this pilot is not costing something, but to 
some its cost is more than 'balanced by its convenience. This is 
especially true with hiaii chandelier lights and for lights that are 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 59 

at the foot or the head of stairs, which may be easily turned on or 
off by pulling the chain of the gas cock. 

An electric lighting system for gas is the method of using an 
electric spark produced by a dry battery with copper wire led from 
the battery to each individual gas tip. A second wire, attached to 
the lever operated by the chain, crosses the copper wire as the chain 
is pulled to open the gas valve; the two wires coming in contact 
produce a spark, which ignites the gas. Continual burning of pilots 
is not necessary in the use of gas stoves, because matches are cheap, 
and because at very little cost a flint lighter may be purchased which 
will at any time spark a light; it is much cheaper to turn on the 
gas and light matches than carelessly to keep the burner going. 
The newer type gas stoves have a pilot which is like a spark burner. 
The lever operating this pilot has a spring, which automatically 
shuts off the pilot as soon as released by the worker. This of course 
eliminates the extra cost of gas caused by most pilot light.^. 

Danger from Gas, Gasoline, Kerosene, Acetylene. — Any of 
the gases used for fuel will cause asphyxiation if breathed in quan- 
tity hence one must giuird against leaks in the pipes, or against 
flames blowing out. Gas and the fumes of gas, if mixed with air 
in certain proportions, are highly explosive. One must therefore 
never hunt for a leak in gas pipes with an open flame as a candle, 
lamp, or match. Storage of kerosene and gasoline should always 
})e with tlie thought of avoiding spread of odor and danger of fire. 
Kerosene is a safer fuel than gasoline to store, but both are more 
safely stored outside the house. Keeping any of the inflammables 
at a low temperature makes them safer to store. 

Electricity. — There are two types of electric currents, the alter- 
nating and the direct. Knowing the difference between these two 
currents is not so necessary for the housekeeper as for her to know 
which of these two types of currents she is to use. The local elec- 
tric company will of course furnish information. The alternating 
current is more often used, so that the motors which are to operate 
sewing machines, washing machines, ice cream freezers, electric 
fans, etc., are likely to be alternating motors, but one can buy any 
of these machines with direct current motors if one l)ut asks for 
them. 

Besides knowing the kind of electric current, one should know 
the voltage of the current. As the current is most often alternating. 



60 HOUSEWIFERY 

so the voltage is usually 110. Home lights and home machines, 
then, are usually operated ou alternating current and 110 volt- 
age; but one should make inquiry of the local electric company 
l)ei:ore buying electric appliances and equipment. A low voltage 
electric utensil cannot be attached to a high voltage line without 
overheating and melting the wiring in the utensil. The pressure 
of the electric force is measured by voltage; the rate of flow by 
amperage; and tlie unit of resistance to the flow of the current 
through a conductor is called an ohm. A watt is the unit of 
electric power. 

Heating or lighting by electricity is brought about by resist- 
ance ofl'ered by certain materials to the passage of the electrical 
current which produces heat. In the case of the stove, hot-water 




KILOWATT HOURS 

Fig. 38. — Dial of a watt-hour meter. 

heaters, warming pads or electric irons, special wires radiate heat. 
In the lamp the wire is finer and of such composition as to become 
incandescent with heat and emit a white light. 

To Bead an Electric Meter. — Electricity is measured by a meter 
which indicates the nmnber of watts used ; as a watt is a small unit, 
the distributing unit of electricity is the kilowatt, or a thousand 
watts. Our electric bills then are in terms of *'kilowatt-hours," 
that is, the number of hours that we have used a thousand watts 
of electric current. To read the meter (Fig. 38) : A complete 
revolution of the right hand dial indicates 10 kilowatt hours; the 
next dial indicates 100 kilowatt hours; the third indicates 1,000 
kilowatt hours; the last, on the extreme left, indicates 10,000 kilo- 
watt hours. In reading, read from the right-hand dial to the left, 
and read the lesser of the two numbers l)etween which the hand 
rests. To obtain the consumption, subtract the reading at the 
beginning of a period from that at the end of a period. If the 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



61 



dial ou the meter has " multiply," multiply the dili'erence accord- 
ingly; if the dial is plain, as above, the reading is direct, and gives 
the actual consumption in kilowatt hours. The reading above is 
8 plus 30 plus 500 plus 0000, or 538 kilowatt hours. 

HEATING * 

Stoves for Cooking, Laundry, Heating. — Stoves and furnaces 

vary to some extent with the type of fuel which they use. Economy 

in the use of fuel depends in part upon the proper kind of heater, 

and partly upon the management of stoves and furnaces. Either 








Fig. 39. — A hood over the stove 
for the escape of heated air and cooking 
odors must be connected with ttie 
chimney. 



Fig. 40. — A Bunsen burner with the 
flame spreader. This kind of burner is 
used in the gas stove. 



must have a compartment for fire called a fire-box, openings and 
passages to furnisli cold air to the fire, and flues to carry off waste 
gases and dampers which open and close to regulate the draughts 
of cold air and of waste gases and hot air. The principle of firing 
is the same for stoves and furnaces. Coal and wood are the common 
fuels, particularly coal. 

Cook stoves follow the general principles of all stoves and fur- 
naces, but have the oven as an extra compartment for baking. 



62 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Coal cook stoves rcqnii'o a s])ocial dampor for tlio lioated 
waste gases and air whidu when the damper is rightly adjusted, 
forces them to go around the oven 'box. Wlarming ovens used for 
food and dishes, that are heated like the oven, only to a much less 
degree, are extra conveniences, found in many cook stoves. A well 
chosen cook stove is one that is huilt without ornnmentation of 
either casting or nic-kel. Every irreguhirity not only holds dirt 




Fig. 41. — Different kinds of stoves: 1, electricity; 2, gas; 3, coal. 



"but adds much to the work of cleaning. A hood (Fig. 30) above 
the stove for the escape of heat and cooking odors adds much to 
the comfort of the kitchen. 

Gas Cook Stoves. — A gas stove may consist of one burner, in 
which case it is usually called a hurner or gas plate (Fig. 40). 
Two, three or four such burners put together are called gas plates; 
and if a portable oven be put on one burner, the combination is 
termed a stove. With perhaps three or four burners on top and 
an oven either below or above these burners, one has a gas range. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



G3 



The more complete rauge has an oveu, bi-oiler, and often a warming 
closet, besides the top for cooking. 

Electric Cook Stoves. — These stoves are not unlike the gas 
stove ill form, except that they are heated by means of wire coils, 
through which the electricity passes. They may or may not have 
an oveu. With the small cooking units like saucepans, toasters, 
and percolators, an electric plug attachment is the substitute for 
the more permanently connected stove top. As these plugs are 




Fig. 42. — Blue flame kerosene stove, especially suitable for places where gas is not obtain- 
able for a quick fuel. 



standardized in size, it is possible to make any connections pro- 
vided the voltage is the same (Fig. 41). 

Kerosene Cook Stoves. — The kerosene stove is another type 
purchasable in single units, or in the large grouping of units that 
make cooking and l)aking possible. The modern kerosene stove 
(Fig. 42) produces a clear blue .flame by first vaporizing the kero- 
sene and then burning the vapor. This blue flame has brought 
into use the name " blue flame stove." This makes a very satis- 
factory range. As long as the burner is kept clean it is free from 



G4 



HOUSEWIFERY 



odor. The wick of such a stove must be kept free from all charred 
particles, so that the flame will be even and will burn without 
sooting. A longer time must usually be allowed to cook over kerosene 
as tlip beat is not so intense as that of coal or gas. By means of a 

special burner it is possible to 
burn kerosene in a coal or 
wood stove (Fig. 43). 

Laundry Stoves. — Any 
stove that will heat a pan, like 
a cook stove, can be converted 
into a laundry stove, because 
either clothes boiler or irons 
can be set over such a fire. 
This, in fact, is necessary 
where kitchen and laundry 
must be comljined. Tlie ideal 
2)lan would be to keep the two 
workrooms separate, in which 
case the housewife might se- 
lect a special laundry stove 
for the laundry. 

A coal stove for the laun- 
dry may or may not contain a 
water-back, which will heat all 
the water for laundry use. 
They are usually built with a 
flat top to hold the boiler, 
while the sides of the stove are 
]3lanned to heat the irons by 
having them rest up around 
the sides (Fig. 44). In this 
way the irons come into the 
very closest contact with the 
hottest part of the fire. As 
the stove becomes very old, it naturally is gradually weakened by 
this intense heat, so care will liave to he used not to throw the irons 
against the side. 

Ga& laundr}^ stoves may be purchased with a central section just 
large enough to hold the average wash-boiler, and, to help in lifting 
the Ijoiler, tb.e stove is built with a lower working surface. In 




Fig. 43.- 



-A device for burning kerosene in 
the cook stove. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



65 



this type of stove, on one or both sides of tiie central space are 
covered burners for lieating the irons. These covered or hooded 
burners are fuel-savers because the heat is held in around 
the iron. 

Heating by stoves, placed in one or more rooms, is still prob- 
ably the most common method of heating individual houses. De- 
spite its drawback of dust and dirt, of carry- 
ing coal through the house, of care involved, 
such stoves give a cheery heat and can be 
easily controlled to give as much heat as pos- 
sible. Their management is like that of a 
furnace or cook stove fire. 

Grate Fires. — Fireplaces utilize only a 
part of the heat produced, so that one must 
not expect to have the room as evenly heated 
as with furnaces or stoves. By means of iron 
air chambers about the fireplace opening into 
the room, it is possible to throw out more 
heat into the room, and it is also possible that 
the heat from the grate on the first floor 
may be conducted by flues to heat the rooms 
above. This is a more effective system than . Fig- 44.— a coal stove de- 

,, . If. 1 , ,.,.. signed for heating irons. A 

the simple nrepJace grate, and is beginning boiler may be connected with 

. . , Ti -n 1 ■ this stove allowing for hot 

to come into use. it will serve as a satis- water all over the house. 

factory method of heating houses located 

where winters are very mild or for summer houses not to be used in 
the severe cold weather. Fireplaces are useful for ventilating by the 
rise of hot air and the fall of cold air, whether or not the fires 
are built in them. 

The old-fashioned Franklin stove is a stove designed to repre- 
sent a fireplace, that really heats m^uch like a stove, giving the 
pleasure of the open fire of a grate. It is placed out in the room 
and connects with the flue by a stovepipe. It will be found very 
satisfactory for occasional use. 

Hot-air Furnaces. — Hot-air furnaces are really jacketed stoves 
(Fig. 45). The fire burns in the inner compartment and by radia- 
tion heats the cold air which is piped in from out-of-doors to the 
space between the jacket and the firebox. This cold-air flue extends 
to an opening in the cellar wall, which should be protected, by 
means of wire grating, from the chance entrance of animals. Cheese- 




66 



housewif1':ry 



cloth sieves are ol'teii put over ilie upeuini,^s so that as the air comes 
to the furnace, it is partially eleaued of street dust. As the prin- 
ciple of a hot-air furnace is circulation of air (Fig. 46), the cold 
air enters at a low level, is heated, expands, rises and passes from 
the jacket into the flues which are attached to it and through these 
rises to the various parts of the house. These flues are divided so 
that a separate flue reaches each room terminating in a register. 




TO CH/m£Y 



PO'/?fAIR 
FRO^'iOOrS/DE 



Fig. 45. — Diagram of hut-air furnace. 

Hot-air heat is likely to be dusty and dry. The sifting of the air 
relieves the dust difficulty, and water in a tank arranged for the 
purpose in the air chamber of the furnace will moisten the air so 
as to make it less parched. 

Hot water Iwating systems operate by the circulation of hot 
water through pipes or radiators located in the rooms (Fig. 47). 
The water as it cools in the radiators becomes heavier than the 
warm water and descends to the boiler, forcing other hot water 
to rise to the radiators, thus keeping up the circulation of heated 
water. This system is easily operated, and the heat is a pleasant 
one. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



67 




68 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Steam Jicalin;/ apparatus is the most clHcieut heater for 
large buildings and in situations where there are bleak winds. 
The system operates by a low-pressure steam -boiler in the base- 
ment from which steam rises through pipes to radiators; as it cools 
the steam changes to water, which runs l)ack into the ])oiler 
(Fig. 48). 

Hot Water Heating. — A cook stove often has a water back 
for heating the hot water sup])]y of the house. Pipes are let 



CC?^/? 



//or 




Fig. 49. — Diagram showing connection of hot-water boiler and cookstove. 

through the back of the fire box, and l)y circulation of cold water 
from the l)()ttoni at a lower level into tlie heater, and hot water at 
a higher le\el on the return from the water back, the water is 
heated and stored as hot water in the boiler (Figs. 49, 50). Simi- 
lar heating coils are often put into the fire boxes of furnaces. 
Special water-heating stoves are also available which heat water 
at small cost with a coal fire, and maintain a constant supply of hot 
water. The latter are more satisfactory, as water heating in a 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



69 



stove to be used for other purposes will reduce the heat efficiency 
of the stove. It will take more coal to keep up the same degree 
of heat. 

Gm iraier-licaling is a very convenient method. The coiled 
water pipe (Fig. 51) under wliieh the gas tlanie burns is the sim- 




FiG. 50. — Hot-water circulation. 



Fig. 51. — Gas hot-water heater. This 
heater may be used with the boiler which 
is connected with the cookstove. When 
there is no fire in the coal stove, this gas 
heater wiU heat the water for the house, 
using the same boiler. 



plest type and may be attached with comparatively small cost to 
any boiler that may be installed with a coal range. Its special 
advantage is that in warm weather one may have hot water when 
needed and not have the continuous lieat of the coal range. By 



70 



HOUSEWIFERY 



iiKsulatiii^^ till! boiler the heated water may he kept Avanu tor several 
hours. 

Instantaneous gas water heaters may be placed in the bathroom 
for use directly with the tub and basin. This heater is chosen for 
houses where there is no hot-water plumbing system. The most 
convenient gas water heater is the automatic heater that furnishes 
hot water all over the house on the turn of the water faucet (Fig. 
52). The gas burns continuously as a small pilot light, and when 
any faucet is opened, the change in water pressure turns the gas 




FiCJ. 52. — Instantaneous gas hot-water heater for bathroom. 

burner on full, continuing as long as the water iiows, and giving 
hot water immediately and as long as the faucet is opened. Careless 
use of water creates a large gas bill, as no matter how long the 
faucets run, the gas is on full force. 

A l-erosene liot-irater heater, while not an instantaneous heater 
like the gas heater, makes the hot-water problem in the rural home 
an easy one if there is a water system to force the water through 
the pipes (Fig. 53). 

MAKING AND REGULATIXG FIRES 

Starting Fires in Stoves or Furnaces. — The fire-box or grate 

should be free from all ash and unburnetl material. Lay the 

material for the fire firmly but loosely so that when the fire begins 

to burn it will settle evenly and not topple over, as it may, reversing 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



71 



the fuel. The easiest hurning material should be put on the bottom, 
such as paper, or shavings, then wood and then coal. As a great 




Fig. 53. — Blue flame hot-water heater. Such a heater gives great service in houses where 
there is no coal range and where a kerosene cookstove is used entirely. 



deal of heat is required to bring the coal to its flaming point, start 
the fire with only enough coal to cover the wood lightly. As soon 
as this coal is hot or in flame, add more. Should any unburned coal, 



72 HOUSEWIFERY 

not clinkers, be left from a former fire, it may l)e added to the lire 
wlien it is clear, hot, and thoroughly established. 

The clinkers and ashes should be well cleaned out each day at 
a regular time and coal placed on the fire at regular times. AMien 
the fire is burned day in and da,y out it is cheaper to hold the fire 
over at night as it will take more coal to build a new fire than to 
keep an old fire. 

G7-aie Fires. — When a grate or fireplace fire is made, the same 
general directions should l)e followed. In making a grate fire the 
ashes should be removed so as to have free access of air to the fire. 
In a fireplace, where wood is burned, the andirons or two or three 
bricks take the place of a grate. Usually the wood ashes are 
brushed far back in the fireplace and left, because when a fire is 
made these ashes will fieat and assist in throwing out more heat. 
It is an economy to leave them sometimes until several inches deep 
but always pushed back — so far back as not to blow out, and so 
as to throw the heat forward into the room. In building a fire- 
place fire, place the back log across the andirons, lay the paper or 
shavings between the andirons, and cross the kindling sticks on the 
paper, but more in a hillock shape than flat as when making a 
furnace or range fire. Lay the heavier sticks on the kindling so that 
as the flame burns along the kindling, it will be led up to the 
heavier log that has been placed across the fire on the andirons. 

A back log is a great help in building a fire. Usually a heavy 
chunky stick of hard wood is chosen; and it often lasts from one fire 
to another, and as it grows smaller may be brought forward and a 
new log put in. To keep a large log from burning, perhaps late 
at night when fire is no longer needed, stand the burning piece 
on end back in the corner or against the side, and as it is isolated 
from the heat of neighboring pieces it will stop burning. Such a 
piece can be used on the next fire. 

In grate fires soft coal burns with a yellow flame, and because 
it is porous and full of gases it burns quickly and makes an excellent 
grate fire. It requires, in fact Avill stand, only little handling, 
because it burns slowly and steadily. Small paper bags filled with 
hard coal can be laid on the fire, and in that way the heavy lifting, 
dirt and noise of shoveling coal in the grate are eliminated. 

In regulating the dampers of stoves and furnaces, opening the 
lowest front damper lets in air which will feed the fire and assist 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



73 



its burning ; opening the damper connected with the chimney allowd 
the escape of carbon dioxide gas and water (Fig. 54 A) in the form 
of vapor, together with the smoke, and assists further in the burning. 
Closing these dampers, partly or entirely, checks the fire to the 
same degree. In a cook stove, the third damper controls the heating 
of the oven, so that if the oven is to be heated the oven damper 
should be closed. This will keep the heat from going out of the 
chimney and will cause it to go in a roundabout passage behind 
and under the oven. This is called the indirect draught (Fig. 54 B), 




Fig. 54. — Diagram of coal stove. A, direct draught. B, indirect draught. From Parloa's 
Home Economics, Century Co. 



whereas a direct turning of the heat up the chimney from the fire- 
bos is called the direct draught; the latter is used especially in 
starting up the fire. To economize with fuel, whether the oven is to 
be used or not, and whether a cook stove or a furnace, the chimney 
damper should ordinarily be closed, that is, the indirect draught 
should be used, so as to save fuel and have more heat. 

In taking care of a range fire, furnace or grate fire, do not pack 
on too much coal. Keep the coal from extending beyond the lining 
of the fire-box, keep the ash-pan clean, and keep the fire grate free 
from ashes, so as to let in air and prevent the grate bars from being 
overheated. If, as in a kitchen range, one has a water tank in the 
range, be sure to keep the ashes away from that part of the grate 
which is to heat the water. These water pipes are usually placed 
just back of the fire-brick at the back of fire-box. 

Dampers of furnaces may be operated from the second fioor by 
having chains extend up through the floor from the cellar. The 



74 HOUSEWIFERY 

chain has a ring on it ami liy pulling the chain, the damper door 
is opened; the ring is tlien fastened on a hook and so long as it is, 
the damper is opened. By releasing the chain, the damper is allowed 
to close. This simple device can often be installed by the man of 
tile family; its cost under any condition is nothing in comparison 
to the saving of strength in not going up and down stairs to open 
and close the draft. \nth a furnace well cleaned and coaled in the 
morning, the regulating of dampers during the day is usually all 
the care the fire will need until night. The man can attend to the 
fire in the morning, and the woman easily take care of the dampers 
during the day. 

Ask Chutes. — In planning the house, ash chutes leading from 
the coal range or fireplace will be found to cost little; and these 
will accQmplish so much in reducing the work of emptying ashes 
and the subsequent work of cleaning up, that they should certainly 
be included. There are special dustless ash trap-doors for fire- 
places that are devised so as to reduce the blowing back of ashes 
when they are dropped down the chute. 

To Remove Clinkers from, the Fire-pot. — Certain coals form 
more clinkers than others, and if the fire is at white heat, these 
clinkers fuse and adhere to the fire-brick. To break them off 
with a poker is likely to break the fire-brick, so they are best re- 
moved by using oyster shells or lime. At the time when the fire 
is a good clear red, draw the hot coals away from the fire-brick, 
drop in about one quart of oyster shells, or a pint of lime, close the 
door, keep the fire hot and the lime in the oyster shell will cause 
the clinkers either to break off or to be very easily tapped, off with 
the ])()ker, when the fire is out. 

Conservation of Heat. — !Much is possible to-day in the way of 
economizing in the cost of fuel, especialh' by proper nuinagement 
of fires. There are also several special devices which result in heat 
conservation. 

"Simmering Buryier." — Gas stoves have so-called '"simmering 
burners," which while they are small burners, are sufficiently large 
to keep a large pot at simmering temperature. It would be well 
for the housekeeper in purchasing a gas stove to investigate this 
question as to whether the stove has a small simmering burner; 
such a burner can also be put on old stoves. 

Gas Stove Tops. — Tops are made of cast-iron like the top of a 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



75 



kitchen range, which may be fitted to the entire top of the gas stove, 
and smaller ones are available that cover two burners (Fig. 55). 
The idea of this top is that with the heat of one burner two kettles 
may be used for cooking, with the more direct heat for the kettle 
directly over the burner, and the radiated heat for the kettle over a 
burner that is not lighted. The idea is the. same as cooking on the 
back of a coal stove when the fire is in the front. 




Fig. 55. — Cast-iron top for a jias stri\e. This is a good iii(:i n ~ . i -:, \ ihk gas. The heat 
of the flame under the front burner is sufficient for slow cooking on the bacli burner. Such 
a top malces the gas stove top like the coal stove. 

Economical Utensils. — More saving of the fuel is accomplished 
than one would realize by using the proper kind of saucepans ; pans 
with a broad bottom will heat more quickly and make more econom- 
ical use of the gas than those that have small bottoms and flare at the 
top. Covers to saucepans also conserve the heat, and hence save 
fuel. Burners that are flaring up the side of the saucepan do not 
give so much heat as those that are turned down enough to keep 
the heat directly under the bottom of the pan. The actual fuel 
cost for heating pans of different types of metal is approximately 
the same when the conditions are the same, so that it is more 
the way the burner is operated and the shape of the pan than it is 
the material of which the pan is constructed, that secures economy. 




76 HOUSEWIFERY 

Dampers. — Saving of coal and wood in kitchen stoves is brought 
al)<)ut through the proper adjustment of dampers. The most com- 
mon waste of fuel is by keeping the oven damper open, tliat is, 
sending a direct current up tlie chimney and thus forcing the fire 
to l)uni more; rapidly while the heat escapes up the flue. The lower 
damper will also cause more rapid burning but not so rapid when the 
oven damper is closed. Ashes in the fire will waste fuel because 
often it will check the fire so much that it dies out, and the unl)urned 
fuel is usually wasted with the ashes in cleaning 
out the fire-box and starting a new lire. 

When the lire is not in use, leave it clear, that 

is, clean from ashes with a light covering of coal, 

Avith the lower front damper closed, the oven 

damper closed, and the upper front damper open. 

nfnwrt^^n^ Insulation. — Covering the hot air, steam, 

Fig. 56.— Insulated and hot-water pipes (Fig. 56) leading from the 

pipes' ° Courtesy "'*^of f^^imacc witli iusulatiou covering will do much 

Charles E. White, |;q couservc the heat. This asbestos covering 

haaies rlonie Journal. ... . 

comes in sections with metal bands to hold it 
in place. It is an easy matter to attach them. An insulating jacket 
for the hot-water boiler can be had for a few dollars. 

Fireless cool-ers are at once fuel and labor savers. They are 
labor savers in that they reduce the work of constantly attending 
to food in the cooking process. The cooking time is longer than 
with a stove, and with many foods it is so long that the housewife 
may go about other work or pleasure for several hours. The time 
required to cook each thing is quite definite, and not indefinite as so 
many seem to think. Food should not be left in so long that it 
not only cooks, but has time to over-cook, and finally cool in the 
kettle. Constant steaming and cooling of foods will give the cooker 
a strong odor, and will give the food a strong flavor that has been 
called a " cooker taste.'' To overcome this give kettles and boxes 
thorough airing when not in use. 

The first fireless cooker was a hay box in which the European 
peasant placed hot dishes, with the idea that when set in this non- 
conducting material they would finish cooking while the workers 
went about their work. Inexpensive cookers may be made with 
wooden flour pails or boxes filled with insulating material (Fig. 57), 
or when camping, may be made by digging a hole in the ground. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



77 



The kettle in which the food is heated must have a tight-fitting 
cover ; the non-conducting material should be as free from odor as 
possible, such as asbestos, excelsior, crushed newspaper, bran, clean 
straw, or cotton (Fig. 58). The care of such a cooker is greater 
than of the manufactured ones, because the filling will soon need 




Fig. 67. — Home-marle firoless cooker. Any convenient box may be used and any can 
of convenient size, such as a lard can, etc. The cans should be wrapped with about 4 or 5 
layers of asbestos paper. The space aroiind the cans should be at least 2 inches and filled 
with straw or wood shavings, etc. The top of the cans should be covered with a pad. 

to be changed, and because the kettles in the manufactured cookers 
are aluminum with clamped covers, and non-rusting ( Fig. 59 ) . Such 
aluminum fireless cooker kettles can, however, l>e purchased sepa- 
rately for use in home-made cookers. 

The cookers are manufactured to meet all needs, so one will 
find cookers with one, two, three, or four compartments, with kettles 



78 



HOUSEWIFERY 



of various sizes, and even in nests of small ones so that several dif- 
ferent foods may be cooked simultaneously. 

The essential thing for the housewife to know is the standard 
requirements for a good tireless cooker: 
The box to have good insulation. 

The kettles to have good, tightly-clamped covers, to be non- 
rustiiig. 

The lining of compartments to be non-absorl)ing and easily 

cleaned — preferably aluminum. 
Soap stones or iron plates 
Q provided for roasting, baking, 

and long boiling. 

The efficiency of the tireless 
cooker is greatly increased by 
raising it from the floor to save 
bending and stooping on the 
part of the worker. The tireless 
cooker gives only fifty per cent. 
of its efficiency if operated in 
conjunction w'ith a coal stove. 
The amount of fuel and the 
time necessary for a coal stove 
to get a kettle of water to boil- 
ing temperature or a stone disc 
lidt enough to roast or bake, 
means enough fire to cook food 
for a long time, perhaps long 
enough to finish the process. 
For this reason a small gas 
burner or a blue flame stove 
will make the fireless cooker 
more of a fuel- and labor-saver than it is with a coal range. 

In the fireless cooTcer gas stove, the fireless cooker principle is 
combined with the gas stove by making the oven with insulated 
walls to retain heat; this type of stove, properly used, is very eco- 
nomical. One or two of the burners on the top of some stoves have 
a non-conducting hood that may be low^ered over the kettle, and at 
once, without lifting or changing, the food is in the fireless cooker. 
The ovens are so insulated that when the baking temperature is 




^— ^ 



-•>r —C 



Fig. 58. — Honie-made fireless cooker. 
A, outside container-box or trunk; B, insu- 
lating material — paper, sawdust, cinders; C', 
metal lining of nest — tin, zinc, aluminum; D, 
cooking kettle — aluminum, agate; E, soap- 
stone plate, or some heat-containing material; 
F, pad of excelsior for covering; C, hinged 
cover for the top of the outside. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



79 



reached, the fire may be turned out and the temperature is practically 
sustained until the baking or roasting is completed in tlie fireless 
cooker oven. 

Vacuum bottles or containers are constructed on the same prin- 
ciple as the fireless cooker; while primarily a convenience, they do 
indirectly save fuel. They are double-walled glass containers with a 
metal jacket. The air is exhausted from lietween these two glass 




Fig. 59. — Caloric fireless cooker. 

walls, thus forming a vacuum, and several linings of non-conducting 
material assist in retaining either heat or cold. The inside is sil- 
vered like a mirror, because the bright surface prevents radiation 
of heat. The vacuum bottle has a tight cork and screw top so as to 
prevent leakage of either heat or cold. In the new models the 
metal outer jacket can be unscrewed so that a new inner container 
may replace a broken one, thus saving in renewal cost. 



LIGHTING 



In building, one should study the location of lighting fixtures 
carefully, both ceiling lights and wall lights ; with electricity, one 
should also locate " plugs " in the baseboard for attaching vacuum 
cleaners, cooking appliances, etc. Placing lights in rooms and halls 



80 HOUSEWIFERY 

is really a matter for much thought, hecaiise bad positions are not 
only inconvenient, but too often mean unnecessary expense through 
having more burners lighted than is necessary. A good droplight 
for reading and sewing requires only one Inimer, and will give more 
and better light directly on the user at less cost than several ceiling 
lights. 

Types of shades influence the clearness of the light, and, like 
wall-paper, increase or decrease the amount of light used. The 
following table showing degrees of light absorption by different types 
of glass shades is interesting for a study of comparisons : 

Per cent. 

Clear glass . 5-12 

Slightly gTound 25 

Ground all over 25-40 

Opal 35-60 

Colored or painted 64 

White or light linings to dark shades will give a clear light most 
pleasant to the eyes. 

Some modern lighting uses the principle of indirect lighting or 
reflection (Fig. GO) . The light burns in a bowl fixture hanging from 
the ceiling; the light is reflected to the ceiling, and this, in turn, 
reflects it to the room. The angle of light is broadened and so 
spreads over the room surface. Such a light gives a brilliantly 
lighted room, without the softening effects of any shadows. It is 
most suitable for show rooms, stores, and large home rooms requiring 
clear, strong light. One would hardly depend entirely upon indirect 
lighting in bedrooms and libraries, as the light is tiresome because 
so general. To soften it, one would find relief in a dull opalescent 
or ground bowl, which absorbs some of the light. 

Paraffin candles are most attractive, for occasional use, at 
least, in dining rooms, and for convenience in going about the house 
where there are no lights, provided one burns the better non- 
smokeless, non-drip candles. Such a candle mil soon prove its value, 
because there will be no unpleasant smoke odor and no dripping of 
paraflfine which, whether white or colored, is hard to remove. 

Kerosene lamps give an excellent light when kept in good 
condition — properly filled, clean wick, and clean chimney. The 
light is a soft yellow, and is most pleasant. Kerosene lamps, how- 
ever, do involve much care, give off a great deal of heat in the 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 



81 



room, consume much oxygeu, and the smoke and odor from either 
a dirty lamp or one turned low is disagreeable. The chief reasons 
for their use are that the first cost is low, the fuel is easily ol)tained, 
and no expensive system is necessary. Kerosene lighting varies in its 
efficiency according to the type of 1)unier used. Of ordinary wick 
burners, those "natli round, hollow wick and a center draft to furnish 
air within the flame are especially good. The kerosene mantle lamp, 
the newest typo of kerosene lamp, has a mantle which increases the 
brilliancy of the light four-fold, with no extra cost for fuel. The 



CE/UN6 




Fig. 60. — Inverted lighting. Specially suited for lighting large rooms. 

mantle must be handled as carefully as a gas mantle and the wick 
must be kept carefully trimmed. To clean kerosene lamps, see 
chapter on Cleaning, page 350. 

Acetylene and " Presto " (condensed acetylene) may be used 
with mantles like gas. Such a means of lighting is most adaptable 
to rural homes and to camps. i\jiy gas fixture can be used, but the 
tip must be double so that the flames coming from two opposite 
holes in the burner strike each other and spread the flame. 

In an acetylene house-lighting system, a tank is provided where 
the gas is stored as fast as it is formed, and from this tank the 
supply pipes branch. 

Gas Lights. — Unless gas is supplied with a special burner, it 
burns with a yellow light, and it requires a globe or lamp shade 
to give sennce which is at all satisfactory. The old-fashioned gas- 
tip spreads the flame into a so-called "bat's wing" (see Fig. 37), 
or " fish tail," light. The newer burners, called " Welsbach," 
6 



82 



HOUSEWIFERY 



are Bunsen gas burners, which mix air with the gas before it is 
burned, and burn the flame into a white mantle (Fig. Gl). This 
mantle becomes incandescent or glowing white, but does not itself 
burn. The mantle is often mounted on a calcium rod which, when 
beated, reflects a white glow, so that the entire Welsbach light is a 
white light, very clear, burning without soot. These mantles are 

very frail, and will last much longer 
in places where there is no jarring 
and no draft. Should they blacken 
in burning, it means that there is 
not enough air going in from below 
to oxidize the flame. To clear the 
mantle, open the ventilator wide and 
let the gas burn until all the soot is 
Ijurned ofi'. For a few minutes the 
light will not be so good, but after 
r\ ■■■::^:^'-'' r\' ^^^ mantle is cleared, tlie regulator 

U ;;;-^^L^-'!^T Ui Diay be readjusted to give a good clear 

light. An old mantle may be saved, 
and may be used as a silver powder 
for cleaning silver. 

Electric lamps have heen im- 
proved since the first carbon lights, 
so that they give a whiter light, and 
at the same time use less electricity. 
The electric bulbs are vacuum glass 
globes in which a filament has been 
put before sealing the bulb ; the air 
is exhausted so that when the lamp 
is heated there is no air present to 
oxidize the filament. The first lamp filament used was of carbon, 
and is relatively inefficient because it uses so much electricity. The 
most modern filament is the tungsten, which gives a clear light 
with a small consumption of electricity. The different degrees of 
brightness depend iipon the size of the filament and upon its com- 
position. The modern tungsten filament is, for example, a finer 
filament than the carbon, and yet gives a greater light. A sixteen 
candle-power light, while using fifty-five watts with a carbon filament, 
consumes in the same time only twenty-five watts with a tungsten 
filament, making the consumption cost in the latter case about one- 
half of the former. 




GMSCHECK 



Fig. Gl. — Bunsen burner. 
Produces a white light by heating 
a mantle to incandescence. 



HEATING AND LIGHTING 83 

It pays to use electric lamps of two or three sizes in an ordinary' 
household. A fifteen-watt lamp will do for closets and other places 
requiring little light; a forty-watt lamp is generally useful ; a sixty- 
watt lamp will illuminate where a single larger light is desired. 

Lighting Ilinis. — It requires more light in a room with dark 
walls than with white ones. 

A flickering or dazzling light produces eye strain and headache. 

The light should come from ahove and over the shoulder. 

Be economical by turning lights out, when not in use. 

A modern lighting system should not be selected on the basis 
of economy alone. Money spent in proper lighting may be saved 
ill the oculist's bill, 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. What are the main factors in successfully lighting a room? 

2. Why is it i.ecessaiy to heat a'wve normal temperature a very damp 
room before the occupant will feel comfortable? 

'i. Why Avill a fireplace or stove smoke when the fire is first started? 

4. Why do tall chimneys have a better draft than short chimneys? 

5. If one were camjjing, how could a fireless cooker ba made? 

6. ^^'hat causes the water to rise in a coflfee percolator? 

7. In what ways might a housewife's electric liglit bills be reduced? 

8. What is the advantage and disadvantage of a highly polished stove? 

9. Why is not a fireplace as economical as a stove? 

10. How may you prevent too much heat from going to the attic radiators 

at the expense of those on the other floors? 

11. Give methods of heating water. How does this aflfect the coal bill? 
Describe coils in a furnace. What precaution must be taken with them? 

REFERENCES 

Bemext, a.. Economic Burxixg of Coal. Pealx)dy. Cole Co. 

Dressler, Fletcher B., Rural Schoolhouses and Grounds. U. S. 

Bureau of Education. Bulletin No. 12. 
HOGDON, D. R., Elementary General Science. Hinds, Heyden & Eldridge. 
King, F. H., Ventilation for Dwellings and Rural Schools, Etc. 

F. H. King. 
Lancaster, Maud, Electric Cooking, Heating, Cleaning. D. Van 

Nostrand Co. 
McKeon, Peter J.. Fire Pke\-ention. Chief Publishing Co. 
McPiierson and Henderson, General Chemistry. Ginn & Co. 
Rosenau, Milton J.. Preventive ^Medicine and Hygiene. Appleton Co. 
U. S. Bureau of Mines, SA^^NG Fuel in Heating a House. Technical 

Paper No. 97. 
U. S. Bureau of Standards, Safety' for the Household. Circular No. In. 
Vult6, Herman, Household Chemistry*. Chemical Publishing Co. 
White, Marion, Fuels for the Household. Whitcomb & Barrows. 
Wbiqht, S. S., The Kitchen Fibe and How to Run It. S. S. Wright. 



CHAPTER TV 
EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES— I 

CENEKAL EQUIPMENT; KITCHEN 

Given a house with instalhition ol' plumbing", heating, and 
lighting, the next problem is adequate working equipment for the 
tasks of. the household. Working equipment involves the tools, 
machinery, and other conveniences of various kinds — some of them 
often called labor savers — which are used in house work. 

The subject is presented in two chapters : In this chapter the 
general principles regarding selection and placing of working 
equipment are stated, and the equipment of the kitchen is de- 
scribed; in the next cha23ter (V) the equipment for the laundry is 
presented, together with equipment for cleaning and miscellaneous 
tasks. In the succeeding chapter (VI), household supplies which 
are used with equipment in household work are described. 

Besides this working equipment, the household has its furnish- 
ings for comfort and immediate satisfaction in use, rather than 
for work, such as furniture, hangings, etc. ; these are discussed 
in a later chapter (VII) on household furnishings. 

Seleciing Equipment. — In buying equipment, the housewife is 
buying her working tools. This involves a certain amount of ex- 
pense, and should mean that many of the things that are bought are 
not to be renewed for a considerable len.gtli of time. This, then, 
requires study on the part of the homekeeper so as to be able to 
answer the question, " "\^liat is a good tool ? " In answer to that 
question, the following outline may help: 

Construction — Utility — 

Size Wearing capacity 

Shape Renewal 

Material Economy — 
Efficiency — Purchasing cost 

Fitted to its task Eenewal cost 

Results obtained Care cost 

Time saved Related costs, as supplies 

Labor saved 
84 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 85 

Cow6'/rw.c7io/ic'onsidered indetail means — Is the tool of the j^roper 
shape to be litted to its task ? With the shape, the size is naturally 
considered. It is the old question of avoiding the round peg in 
a square hole. The proper material is also essential in the construc- 
tion of a tool. Some types of fibre, for example, are better for 
scrubbing, or certain soft hair is better for brushing; some woods 
wear longer than others; solid backs to brushes will outwear a glued 
or tacked back. 

Utility and Efficiency are in fact related matters, but one may 
consider utility as involving wearing power and the possibility 
of freshening or renewing the tool so that it is as good as new, 
without the expense being as great as that of first cost. Efficiency 
has to do with its j)ower to do its work, depending upon the shape of 
the tool, its size, etc. It means this also — Does it take more time 
to use the tool and to care for it after use, than it does to do the 
work without the tool? If it is efficient, good or better results 
should be obtained, and time and labor should be saved by it. 

Economy involves a careful comparison between the cost of one 
tool and the cost of another, the decision to come after answering 
for both tools the other requirements — Is it well constructed, has 
it wearing capacity, and is it efficient? If, in two tools — brushes 
or dusters or brooms — the conditions are equal, then the eco- 
nomical housewife should always buy the cheaper. She should 
be sure, however, that whether the cost he little or much, the 
tool can, by proper care (cleaning or oiling, etc.), be used for a 
reasonable period of service, thus eliminating excessive cost of 
purchasing new tools. Sometimes a tool takes nmch time and 
labor in caring for it, and is therefore not an economy but rather 
a hindrance. The matter of additional costs involved in the use of 
the tool, as for supplies, fuel, etc., should also be considered. 

Labor-saving Appliances. — There are a number of larger 
labor-saving appliances such as the vacuum cleaner and the washing 
machine, which must be given serious consideration. One must not, 
however, judge them solely in terms of the purchasing cost. Granted 
that it is a large sum of money for the first expenditure, it is not 
fair to look at it except in a business-like way, and to compare this 
purchasing cost with the manpower cost of the same labor. This 
cost study should be made in the same way that an investment is 
considered. When one makes an investment, it is not expected 
to yield an income within a week, but only after a reasonable length 



86 HOUSEWIFERY 

of time — a year or more. In just tlie same way, it is not fair to 
expect a motor waslier to pay for itself in one washing. On the other 
hand, an appliance that breaks down after one or two trials is a 
poor investment, no matter how little it costs. One must figure 
the gain or loss on the basis of one year, or five years. One must 
figure on the renewal cost in the way of repairs, and of keeping in 
working order ; the income from the investment by the amount and 
quality of work done under the new method as compared with the 
old; the income through saving the housewife from fatigue, and 
allowing time for other productive work such as mending, making 
and renovating of furnishings and garments, which otherwise must 
be hired out at considerable cost ; and the income through allowing 
more time and energy for the necessary mental and spiritual life 
for the housewife and her family. 

The only time when labor savers are not an investment is wheii 
they are hastily bought without study to find the best for the 
money ; without definite knowledge of how to operate them. Under 
these conditions they may come into a home either to be so poorly 
operated that their efficiency is greatly reduced ; or not to be used at 
all, as is often the case when the housewife does not learn how to 
operate them and cannot teach the maid to use them. 

Labor savers, however, do not necessarily mean mechanical 
equipment with motors and pulleys, or vacuums and cylinders, or 
pressure and weight. Every tool, no matter liow simple, and every 
convenience in work, is a labor saver. Here is where the housewife's 
study may open a door towards saving, by putting herself in a 
receptive frame of mind, and becoming willing to shift from old 
habits and methods. The simplest labor saver of all is to raise the 
height of working surfaces, to create a close working relationship 
between tools, and to group tools about the working center in which 
they are to be used. 

Placing Equipment. — Much has been said in recent years on the 
efficiency produced by grouping together the tools that belong to a 
process. This is most helpful and is one of the best ways to reduce 
effort and fatigue in housework. It is this principle that suggests 
two cleaning closets for two floor levels, each closet equipped with 
its own working outfit so as to avoid the waste of time and effort 
in going over the stairs, and leaving one's work to go after the tools. 
Racks and shelves placed near the stove, near the sink, near the 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 87 

kitchen table, make possible this grouping of tools, which is espe- 
cially of service at these working centers. The working centers 
themselves should be so related that every possible extra step and 
movement is saved. This is especially true in the kitchen and in 
the laundry, where there are more permanent pieces of equipment 
and more detailed processes of operation. These facts of relationship 
of stationary equipment, height of working surfaces, and grouping 
of tools in best positions are all points to study and thoroughly 
work out when the house is planned, as it is often impossible to do 
it afterward without great inconvenience and expense. Even so, 
the saving in years of work which is to be done in the house that is 
bought finished may warrant the cost of extensive alterations. 

A good way to make this study is to take the architect's plan 
of the kitchen, pantry, or laundry, and imagine it is a real room and 
do the work in it. For example, let the housekeeper pretend she is 
preparing creamed potatoes, remembering to begin by going after 
the potatoes. Where are they — down cellar, back porch, or the wood- 
shed? Now carry them through all the processes — ^washing them, 
paring, boiling, draining after cooking, getting butter, cream, salt, 
pepper, dish ; and, lastly, how far is it to the dining room ? Creamed 
potatoes are not the real question ; the question is, have we arranged 
all working centers so that they lead one to the other, or are we 
walking miles because we have not planned the kitchen properly ? 

Believing each room should, for efficiency, be a well-equipped 
workshop, it is wise for one to plan separate sets of equipment for 
each working center. If it is necessary to economize with money, 
of course some tools must be used in two places, but the disadvantage 
is that the tool is rarely ready for use, when and where it is wanted. 

Height of Working Surfaces. — The equipment being chosen, 
much may be added to the satisfactory workshop by having the sta- 
tionary tools, such as sinks, tables, washtubs, and stoves, placed at 
good working height. A low working surface means a crouched, un- 
comfortable position; it means unnecessary muscular fatigue in 
bending and stooping many times ; it means backache and compressed 
lungs, all of which increase fatigue. The housekeeper who goes into 
a new house, over which she is giving her share of intelligent super- 
vision, will insist upon raising the working levels of most of the 
permanent tools. Sinks have usually been set too low, most wash- 
tubs have given the feeling of going head first into them, and 



88 



HOUSEWIFERY 



tables arc ordinarily far too low. Keep in mind that the bottom 
of the sink rather than the top is the working level, and that the side 
of the washtub rather than the bottom, and that the top of the table, 
are the places for work. 

It is easy for the liousekeeper to raise the working surfaces of 
tables and stoves; tliis is possible by means of blocks placed under 




Fig. 62. 



-One working surface and three workers. The height of the regular kitchen table 
is suited only to the one worker who is abnormally short. 



them. Sinks and tubs, unfortunately, when once set, can only be 
readjusted at a cost of some ten to fifteen dollars each time, because 
the pluml)ing law requires that there be tight connections in the 
drains of the sink or tub. Xaturally these drains are not elastic 
or telescoped, so that up to the present time sinks and tul)s cannot 
l)e readily raised or lowered. (See chapter on Plumbing, page -48.) 
To help the housewife plan the height of working surfaces like 
sinks, tables, etc., it is well for her to stop to consider wdiat her body 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



89 



position would Ije if she did the work comfortably, and to notice 
how she has been forced to stand because in all these years the 
stationary equipment has been set too low (Fig. 62). Dishwash- 
ing, ]>reparing vegetables, beating cakes, and mixing bread are done 
with the arms bout at right angles at the elbow. If the surface is too 
low, the body is bent down, 
giving fatigue at the Avaist 
line (Fig. 63). If the sur- 
face is too high, a raised arm 
and shoulder position brings 
the ache of fatigue up higher 
between the shoulders in- 
stead of at the back waist 
line. Tlie table top can be 
Jiigher than the sink bottom, 
the placing of the sink de- 
pending on its depth ; the 
l)ottom of a deep sink cannot 
l)e mounted as high as the 
bottom of a shallow one, be- 
cause the worker can not 
reach over the high wall of 
a deep sink if it is elevated 
too much ; the worker's arm 
is used with the least strain 
when not constantly bent at 
the wrist. 

Levels may be lower for 
washing clothes on a wash- 
board, ironing, kneading 
l)read, and in any process where there is need of pressure, because the 
angle at the elbow becomes wider and the arm line more nearly 
straight so as to produce leverage. 

Let the housewife practice doing most of her work with her 
back straight ; if bending is necessary with her work, bend forward 
at the hips, not at the waist; better, raise the working surfaces so 
that the body need not bend at waist or shoulders to reach to the 
Avork. Just how many inches high should a working surface be? 
That depends, of course, upon the worker's height, and there is no 




Fig. 03. — The top of this tub is 36 inches 
from the f)oor. Note good position of 
worker's back. 



90 



HOUSEWIFERY 



better rule tlian to observe oneself and experiment. For persons of 
medium liei<]^bt — 5 feet, (i incbes, or tbereabouts — tables for standing 
Avork sbould be about 3;3-;)8 incbes high; kitchen sinks sliould be 
about 34— ±0 indies to tlie to]); and waslitubs about 'M-\0 inches to 
the roll of the tub. 

Surfaces for standing work are of course higher tlian those for 
sitting work (28-31 inches). Tables and other surfaces should be 
usually put at a standing height. There should always be a high 
stool available so that as much work as possible may be done sitting. 
The height of shelves where equipment is to be put away is also 
important; avoid as much as possible stooping down and stretching 
up high. Put heavy equipment on lower shelves. 



KITCHEN EQUIPMENT 

SUGGESTIOXS FOE KiTCHEN EQUIPMENT 



Agate Ware: 
Double boiler 
Colander 
Funnel 
Ladle 

Pie plate, deep 
Pie plates, sballow 
(^)uart measure 
Sauce pans 

1 (piart 

2 quart 
4 quart 
G quart 
8 quart 

ykimmer 

Spoon, large (basting) 
A lumintim : 

Coffee percolator — (5 cupa 

Coffee pot 

Kettle covers 

1 for 1 quart pan 
1 for 2 quart pan 
1 for 4 quart pan 
I for 6 quart pan 
1 for 8 quart pan 

Tea kettle — 3 quarts 
Brushes: 

Bottle brush 

Dust brush 

Pastry brush 

Refrigerator lirush 

Scrubl)ing l)rush 

Silver brush 



Sink brusli 

N'egetable brush 
Earthenicare : 

Putter crock 

Casserole 

Custard cups 

]\Ii.\ing bowls 
2 large 
2 small 

Tea pot 
Enamel, White: 

Bowls, small 

Dipper 

l^ish pai\, oval 

Pitcher 

Platter 

Refrig-erator dishes 

Soap dish 
Glass : 

Baking dish 

Butter dish with cover 

Containers for dry groceries 
Fruit jars, 1 quart 
1 pint 

Lemon squeezer 

Measuring cup 

Spice jars 
Iron : 

Dripping pan 

Frying pan large 

Garbage can (galvanized) 

Griddle 

Kettle for deep fat frying 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



91 



Roasting pan, Russia iron 

Soup pot 
Japanned irare: 

Hread box 

C'ako box 

Dust pan 

Flour bin 

Sugar box 

Tray 
Linens and Cloths: 

Chamois skin 

Cheesecloth 

Dish towels 

Dusters 

Floor clotlis 

(Jlass towels 

Hand towels 

Holders, soft 

Oven clotiis 
Silre7' ( nickel ) : 

2 forks 

3 tablespoons 

4 teaspoons 

1 half teasj)oon 
Steel: 

Bread knife 
Can opener 
Cork screw 
Hammer 
Ice pick 

Knife sharpener 
Meat skewers 
Metal mesh pot cleaner 
Nut cracker 
Paring knife 
Scissors 
Spatula 
Tin : 

Angel cake tin 

Apple corer 

Biscuit, cookie and doughnut 

cutters 
Bread pans 
Cake pans, deep 

shallow 
.Flour sifter 
Grater 
^Measuring cups, standard y^ pt. 

2 muffin tins, 6 cups each 
Pastry sheet 

Steamer, fits any kettle 
Wire : 

Basket for deep fat frying 



Broiler 

Dish drainei- 

Potato masher 

Puree sieve 

Sink strainer 

Soap shaker 

Toaster 

Tea or cofTee strainer 

Wire egg beater 

Wooden : 

Broad l)oar(l 
Chopping bowl 
Dough l)oard 
Ice cream freezer 
Knife board 
Rack for towels 
Rolling pin 
Salt box 
Spoon 
Step-chair 
Table, 3 feet long 
Miscellaneous : 
Asbestos sheet 
Broom 
Calendar 
Carpet sweeper 
Clock 

Coffee mill 
Cork 
Labels 

Large needles 
IMatch box 
Pad and pencils 
Pail 
Paper 

Greasing 

Shelves and drawers 

Waxed 
Scales 

Scrap basket 
Screw hooks 
String 
Thread 
Thumb tacks 
Lahor Savers: 

Aluminum cleaning pan 
Bread mixers 
Cake mixers 
Fireless cooker 
Half-teaspoon measure 
Meat grinder 
Wheel egg-beater. 



92 HOUSEWIFERY 

Kitchen Tables. — Firmness, height, and material are points to 
]jo coiisitlered in l)uying- a tahlr. Choose a strong, well-built table 
with suljstantial logs, as an unsteady taljle is especially troublesome. 
The lesser evil is shoi't legs, because that may l)e overcome by ])utting 
blocks underneaili to raise the tal)le to the proper height. Settles, 
which may be purchased with square tops make not only excellent 
kitchen tables, but good laundry tables. A table is necessary in each 
of these rooms. The material for the table top should ])c smooth, 
of such close texture as to l)e non-al)sorl)iiig and to resist stains, 
of such material as to be easily cleaned, and to resist wear and tear. 

Wooden top iahlcs require constant scrubbing unless they are 
stained with oil stain or are varnished, and even then, unless most 
carefully protected by working boards, trays or papers, great care will 
be needed to keep them in good condition. Waterproof varnish 
may be proof against water, but hardly against the marring of wear 
and tear. Wooden top tables may l)e covered with oilcloth, so that 
the only care needed is to wipe with a damp cloth. To tack this cover 
on, gives a table top which is quite serviceable and one that lasts 
long, unless hot pans are set on it, or knives are allowed to cut 
its surface. Sheets of zinc may be used as a cover, or zinc-top tables 
may be bought, but while they are serviceable so far as wear and 
tear are concerned, they are not easily kept in good condition. 
Both acids and alkalies affect zinc, so it is not suitable material to 
come directly in contact with food. 

Glass-top tables are easily cleaned, not affected by chemicals, 
but are not proof against heat — that is, any hot dish, for example, 
a saucepan, set upon them, is likely to cause such rapid expansion 
as to produce breakage. 

Enamel iahles, before being accepted, should be ^aranteed proof 
against chipping with such things as screwing on meat grinders 
and bread mixers, or by the knocking of heavy bowls or knife handles, 
Avhich it is almost impossible to prevent. Very great heat, too, will 
chip an inferior quality of enamel. Enamel is being perfected to 
such a point that the housekeeper in buying stoves and tal)les should 
give careful consideration to the subject before refusing either. 
Enamelled gas stoves, as a matter of fact, are giving good service, 
and tables are being perfected which will meet all requirements. 

Kitchen cabinets are combined tables and closets which have 
been constructed as the outcome of the study of efficiency methods. 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



93 




P0T5 AND PAN5 



Fig. 64. — Kitchen cabinet. Courtesy of 
Charles E. White, Ladies Home Journal. 



They represent grouping al)Out the working center the supplies and 
tools that belong to the work of that center (see page 8C). The 
kitchen cabinet is really a kitchen table with a closet of shelves or 
boxes above, with containers for flours and meals either below or at 
the side, and with storage capacity for mixing bowls, knives, measur- 
ing utensils. Such cabinets may be purchased to-day in wood or in 
metal which has been enamel painted or enamelled (Figs. 64 and 
Go ) . The wooden cabinets were 
first in the market, and repre- 
sent the same points in capac- 
ity and convenience that the 
metal ones do, but the question 
of cleanliness rather turns the 
attention to the metal ones. 
The metal cabinets are more 
noisy than the wooden, ones, but 
are more likely to be proof 
against vermin, rats, and mice, 
and may be easily cleaned by 
water without becoming water-soaked. Metal cabinets are also non- 
al^sorbent to odors and to any spilled food. 

The housewife can make a home-made cabinet by using a kitchen 
table and grouping about it shelves, which may or may not have 
doors, while from the shelves and the side of the table saucepans, 
sifters, etc., may be hung. A man or woman handy with tools can 
make an excellent cabinet, one that may be divided to suit the 
special needs even better than a ready-made one. • An old book- 
case and a kitchen table make a good beginning. 

Kitchen Utensils. — Kitchen utensils must be selected in part 
on the liasis of the temperatures to which they will be subjected in 
the cooking processes (Figs. 66-68). Frying and roasting represent 
methods in which dry heat of high temperature is essential. Such 
material as Eussia iron, sheet steel, cast-iron, crockery, Pyrex glass, 
are especially suited for this type of cooking. Bread pans and 
roasting pans are best of Eussia iron or sheet steel, while cast-iron, 
liecause of its thickness, is an even cooker and retains a high tem- 
perature for some time, and hence is used for griddle and waffle 
irons, frying kettles, and skillets. 

For boiling, stewing, or where moisture is part of the cooking 



94 



HOUSEWIFERY 



process, and where the tfiiii'iTiiturc therefore is not over 212° 
Falirenlieit, agate, enamel, or tin may be purehasi'd. 

Ahiniliiinii is a. metal that may l)e used for either method, as it 

may he heated to dif- 
ferent deijrees of heat 
with or without moist- 
ure. It is capable of 
being made into any 
shaped pan, but is 
more expensive than 
some metals, xilumi- 
num is slightly affected 
l)y both acids and alka- 
lies : vegetables, for ex- 
ample, will discolor it, 
whereas fruits and acid 
foods brighten and 
clean it. It should 
never be put to soak 
with soda water, and 
is most easily cleaned 
with dilute acids, such 
as rhubarb, lemon, or 
tomato. In fact, after 
cooking any of these 
foods in an aluminum 
pan, the pan is as 
bright as when new. 

Crockeri/ and glass 
are chosen for slow 
baking, as for casse- 
roles and custards, and 
for baking acid foods 
like apples, tomatoes, 
or other fruits. There 
is a new glass cooking 
ware which is used for 
baking utensils of all kinds, and which has been shown to cook 
in less time than that required for metal baking dishes, and 
therefore with a smaller consumption of fuel. 




mttM ii- .^fM' ' 



I'iG. Co. — White enamel kitchen cabinet. 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 95 

VARIOUS TYPES OF COOKING TOOLS 




Flc. 66. — Utensils for dough work. Courtesy of Miss MiUlrcd .Maddocks, G'oorf llouxekeepitm. 




Fig. 67. — Different shapes and kinds of saucepans. Courtesy- of Miss Mildred Maddocks, 

Oood Housekeeping. 




Fig. 68. — Baking dishes. Courtesy of Miss Mildred Maddocks, (,'.mi./ llmisik, , piny. 



96 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Enamel or agate is a glass like coating on sheet steel. With 
high temperatures like frying, the sheet steel heats and expands 
more than with boiling, and the expansion is so great that the 
enamel covering, which has almost no expansive power, is likely to 
chip off. One usually considers agate ware as that which is gray 
or mottled, and the enamel as plain color, either blue, white, or 
l)rown. There is little difference in the wearing power, but there 
is a difference in the cost, in favor of the agate. Sudden change of 
temperature, as is given in professional testing, is a very severe test 
for enamel ware, and usually jjroves its worth. Enamel utensils will 




Fig. 69. — Small kitchen necessities. Courtesy of Miss Mildred Maddocks, 
Good Housekeeping. 

usually wear better if, before they are put into service, they are 
placed in a larger pan of cold water and boiled in that water ; after 
boiling, let the pan cool in the water, as this seems to toughen 
the enamel. 

Steel should be used for all cutler}', and the higher tempered 
steel should be chosen when sharp edges are required. It does 
not pay to buy a cheap gTade of steel, as it neither takes a sharp 
edge nor holds one. The housekeeper should plan to have a 
carving knife of high-tempered steel, a good bread knife, and one 
small vegetable knife with a thin l^lade of high-grade steel so that it 
cuts thin parings. These better knives should be saved from the 
rougher work of the kitchen such as the work of turning food on a 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



97 



griddle or in a frying pan, and as most of them are sharp-pointed 
they are not suitable for bowl scraping or for measuring. A spatula 
is best for dough work, for turning food, and for scraping ; a round- 
ended case knife is best for measuring. Buy a cork-screw and a can 
opener, so that there is no need of taking a good knife to open 
bottles or tin cans. Get the 
butcher to crack or saw 
bones, so the knife need not 
be used for that work. 

Timvare is made of a 
thin coating of tin on a sheet 
steel foundation. Tin melts 
at a comparatively low tem- 
perature, and is affected by 
acids. For this reason, a tin 
utensil should never be put 
over a fire without some- 
thing in it for moisture, and 
it is not suital)le for baking 
or stewing acid foods. The 
melting of tin is often seen 
in the globules of tin found 
on the outside of sauce-pans, 
and the dark rings on the 
bottom of baked apples show 
the effect of the acid of the apple on the tin of the dish. 

Wireware is bought for dish drainers, strainers, bread and cake 
racks, frying baskets, and egg whips. 

Woodemcare is most suitable for spoons that are to be used for 
stirring and mixing, and for dough boards, bread, and meat boards. 

General Standard. — In selecting all utensils, the following 
standards should be kept in mind : Avoid utensils with sharp edges, 
or with cracks or lines from which food may be cleaned only with 
difficulty. (To clean kitchen utensils, see chapter on Cleaning, 
pages 261, 262. 

Below are discussed some items of special importance in kitclien 
equipment in the nature of labor savers. 

Aluminum Cleaning Pan or Disc for Silver. — Cost, $l-$3. 
The method of using is discussed in the chapter on Cleaning and 
7 




Fig. 70. — Folding wheel table. Especi- 
ally suitable in small kitchen and where stor- 
age space must be considered. 



98 HOISKWIFKH^ 

Cai'c, page '2(u'). It saves time ami the worker, and does not liarm 
the silver — leaves it with a whiter finish and less of the satin gloss. 
(See also chapter on Supplies, page 13-4.) 

Bread and Cake Mixers. — Cost of bread mixers, $3.0()-$4.50 ; 
of cake mixers, $•.'.()(). Tliese lal)or savers arc time savers, l)eeause 
they can do a given amount of work in much less time, and like all 
machines the mechanism, if true, produces stan.dard results. The 
bread mixer is an even greater necessity than the cake mixer. 
Making bread by the use of this machine is reduced to careful meas- 
uring and baking, with no time and energy expended in long 
kneading. 

Dish Mops. — A string mop may be used for washing dishes, if 
one does not want to put the hands in water, but such mops must be 
ke])t very clean. 

Fireless Cockers. — Cost. $l-$40. See chapter on Heating and 
Lighting, page 7(5.) 

Half-teaspoon Measure. — C*ost, GO cents. A'ery handy and 
accurate in making small measurements. 

Meat Grinders. — ^Cost, $1.25-$3.00. These helps to-day repre- 
sent an investment towards economy and efficiency. The grinders, 
through the possibility offered by the different knives, have an 
almost unlimited use, not only with meat, but bread, vegetables 
and other food materials. In this way when various meals and 
grains are to be converted into flours, the grinder may he used as 
a mill. 

Metal-Mesh Pot Cleaner, — Cost, 10 cents. This device cleans 
pots and iron pans much more efficiently than a knife, which is 
soon duUect by such use ; and it eliminates the use of an abrasive 
cleaner on the dish cloth, with its conse(juent wear on the cloth and 
with grit in the dish water. 

Paper Dish Cloths. — Cost, 3 cents-5 cents. These are efficient, 
sanitary, and may be used several times before throwing away. 

Palette Knives, called Spafvlas. — Cost, from 25 cents up. Two 
strokes with the thin, flexible blade cleans a mixing bowl, instead 
of a dozen strokes with a ease knife — less waste of material and 
greater efficiency. Also invaluable for turning food in frying pan 
or on griddle. 

Sink Strainer. — Cost, K) cents-40 cents. Such a labor saver 
ke})t in the sink reduces the sink cleaning to such a minimum that 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



99 



110 shovel and scraper are necessary to clean food scraps out of the 
sink, no force pumps needed to clean out the waste pipe, and the 
sink may be washed as easily as a china plate. This strainer may 
be a three-sided one of wire to keep in the corner of the sink, or it 
may be just a puree strainer with tin sides. The strainer is best 
of wire woven mediumly close ; a puree strainer is too close. 

Wheel Egg-beater. — Cost, 5 cents-] 5 cents. It is easily oper- 
ated, and very cllicient in making eggs light. It can be used as a 
cream wbiii. 




Fig. 71. — Wheel table. A wheel table is a real labor saver, provided it can be easily moved 
and cleaned. The extra shelves and top space make thia one eflScient. 



Window Food-Storage Box. — Cost, $10-$15. Any box put on 
the window sill or outside the window may be a " window box." To 
increase its efficiency and to add to its sanitation, it should be put 
on two cleats to raise it above any moisture on the window sill ; it 
should have a slanting rain-proof roof which projects to insure 
the dryness of contents ; it should be well ventilated to keep it 
sweet smelling; it should be large and shelved to facilitate organ- 
ization ; and to make it easily cleaned, it should be painted with 



100 HOUSEWIFERY; 

white enamel paint. It should be located at a window near the 
food-work center. In l)uikling a new house a ventilated food 
storage closet can h(; built on the outside of the liouse, on the kitchen 
wall, and made to open directly into the kitchen l)y a special door 
through the wall. 

Wire Dish Drainer. — Cost, 10 cents-$1.50. This is a most 
helpful hil)()r saver in draining hot, well-rinsed dishes. By using 
very hot water for rinsing, it eliminates the necessity of wiping 
dishes, thus saving labor and towels, and insuring clean dishes. 

Wooden Spoons. — Cost, 5 cents-20 cents. There is no rasping 
noise, no black metal marks on bowl or worker's liand, better grip 
possible, hence less hand and arm ache, no burns from hot metal 
handles. A'fter use, soaking them in cold water makes them easily 
cleaned. 

Dish-washing Machine. — Cost, $75-$110. This should be a 
labor saver, and will be with a family of about six or eight, or more. 
If one stops to think that a considerable part of the dishwashing 
work is finished when the dishes are scraped, sorted, and stacked, 
and that this must l^e done whether the machine is used or not, it 
will 1)6 seen that the machine will prove an economy only in the 
large family. A labor-saving dishwashing method is perhaps the 
most economical in small families; try, as the dishes are brought 
from the dining-room, tO' rinse and stack, and have a pitcher or pan 
of water to receive the silver; this method is efficient, reducing 
considerably the time required for washing when there has been a 
disorderly piling of dishes. 

In dish-washing machines, the dishes are arranged on a rack 
inside the tank of the machine, and the water, in Avhich soap or 
soda has been dissolved, is forcibly sjirayed over them. This requires 
that the dishes should be well scraped, and then so stacked that the 
soiled part is free to be AA^ashed. The racks hold the dishes apart 
from each other, and usually there is a holder especially designed 
for silver. Soda or soap powders must be dissolved and put into 
the water. As the hot water comes into the washer the suds is 
formed; then either by a hand or a power device, force is created 
which throws the water over the dishes and removes the soil. The 
soda solution is most often used because it saponifies the grease, 
and as the hot rinse leaves the dishes to drain dry — there is no 
wiping — a film is not left as is the case when glass or china has been 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 101 

washed with soap and not properly rinsed. However, care must 
he used in washing gold-decorated dishes with soda as this will in 
time remove the gold. The machine does better work with plates and 
saucers than with silver and cups. Silver is not likely to be very 
clean, especially in small crevices as between fork tines, and cups 
too often lose their handles. The efficiency of a dish-washer may 
be rated by the number of pieces washed at one time, the possibility 
of doing cups and silver, the amount of breakage, the ease of 
cleaning the machine, and the kind of power — hand or mechani- 
cal. To make a dish-washer really useful, hot and cold water should 
be piped to it, and a waste pipe provided; an adequate supply of 
very hot water is also essential. 

A wire frying basket may be used as an inexpensive substitute 
for a dish-washing machine. Fill the basket with dishes, then 
plunge it into a pan or tub of hot soapy water, and keep it moving 
until the dishes are clean. 

Dumb-waiter. — Of course the ideal " dumb-waiter," or small 
lift for parcels between floors, is one with an electric motor, the 
whole being an electric lift. Its cost — about $1200 — is too high to be 
considered except in the largest households, so the pulley dumb- 
waiter is commonly used. It can be as simple as to be only a pulley 
fastened in a strong beam, and a large basket or box suspended 
from it by ropes, all operating through a shaft; and in its simple 
standard form, in which there is a counter-weight to the box, it is 
not relatively expensive. For the housekeeper who must use her 
cellar or basement several times a day, it will greatly reduce the 
work of carr}dng up and down. Be sure to locate the dumb-waiter 
where it has the closest relationship to the kitchen, and can give the 
greatest service to the part of the house it is to serve. It is possible 
to have the dumb-waiter go down into the cellar ; and instead of the 
housekeeper emptying it each time, it may stay in a walled-in or 
sunken place in the cellar floor, where it will be especially cool. This 
makes a cool storage receiving room which will save ice for many 
months in the year. The principle is the same as that of lowering 
food into a well to keep cool. 

Wheel Table.— Cost, $1.75-$15.00. The $1.75 table may be 
a home-made one from a cheap kitchen table plus the cost of four 
rollers. One desirable type has a top and bottom table surface, a 
drawer and a towel hanger ; it is light, steady, and of such size as to 



102 HOUSEWIFERY 

go easily through the door (Figs. 71 and 72). It saves the cost of 
many journeys from a room. A tray is its poor substitute, hut even 
though poor, is better than carrying each thing singly. 

SlKiCiKSTIVK QUESTIONS 

1. Given $25.00 to spend, wliat lal>or-saving devices would you Imy? 

2. Wliat points must a housewife Icnow in purchasing an ch-ctrical device, 

whetiier a sweeper, a washer, or an ironer? 
.3. In what ways can you economi/.e in operating an electrical niacliinc? 
4. What economies are represented in a wheel tahle? 
ii. Make a comparison between the different materials used for cooking 

utensils. Do this by listing advantages versus disadvantages. 

REFERENCES 

Child, Oeokgia B., Efficient Kitciiex. McBride, Nast & Co. 

Fkederick, Christine, The New Housekeeping. Doubleday, Page & Co. 

Good Hoi^sekeeping Institute, Household Engineeking. Good House- 
keeping Institute. 

Parloa, Maria, Home Economics. Century Co. 

U. S. Bureau of Standards, ]\Ieast-rements for the Household. Circu- 
lar No. 55. 

VultEj Herman, Household Chemistry. Chemical Publishing Co. 



CHAPTER V 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES— II 

LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT 

The laundry process requires facilities for a water supply and 
disposal of waste water, which are discussed in the chapter on 
Plumbing, page 21. Laundry processes are given in the chapter on 
Laundering and Eenovation, page 273. Herewith are listed the 
desirable items of laundry equipment and supplies, with a descrip- 
tion of the more important items of laundry equipment (Fig. T2). 



SUGGESTIONS FOR LAUNDRY EQUIP:MENT 



Asbestos mats 
Boiler, copper bottom 
Bottles, ^2 doz. 2 oz. 
Bowls 

enamel 2 qts. 

enamel 6 qts. 

large for starching 
Brushes 

fringe 

scrubbing 

spotting 
Case knife 
Cheesecloth 
Clothes-basket 
Clothes-hamper 
Clothes-horse 
Clothes-line 
Clothes-pins 
Clotliespin bag 
Clothes-props 
Clothes-stick 
Cloth, heavy, for washing tubs 

and boiler 
Duster for line 
Droppers 
Funnel 
Flannel 
Irons 

1 hea^y 

3 sad 

1 gas or electric or gasoline 

1 fluting iron 

1 pointed small 

1 polishing 



Iron holders 
Iron stand 
Ironing boards 

bosom 

skirt 

sleeves 
Ironing table 
Jars 

I doz. Mason, 1 qt. 

"^/y doz. ]Ma>;on, 2 qt. 
Labels 
Measures — 

1 teaspoon 

1 tablespoon 

1 cup 

1 quart 

I graduate 

Yard stick 

Tape 
Mop for floor 
INIuslin, unbleached 
Paper 

blotting 

unglazed 
Pail, galvanized iron 
Pins, i/o pound 
Scales 
Scissors 
Soap dish 
Sprinkler 
Strainer 
Tape, cotton 
Vacuum washer 
Wash bench 



10.3 



104 



HOUSEWIFERY 




EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 105 

Washboard, glass or zinc Wliisk broom 

Washtubs, 2-3 Wringer 

Washing machine Wooden spoon 
Wax 

SUGGESTIONS FOR I^UNBRY SUPPLIES 

For detailed discussion see chapter on Supplies, pages 136-142. 

Alum Hyposulphite of soda 

Alcohol Javelle 

Ammonia Kerosene 

Benzine Oxalic acid 

Blanket wash Paraflin 

Blue Potassium permanganate 

Borax Soap 

Bran Soap bark 

Chloride of lime Soap solution 

Chloroform Soap chips 

Detergent Soda (powdered form, or crystals 

Ether in solution) 

French chalk Starch 

Fuller's eartli corn 

Gasoline rice 

Hydrochloric acid wheat 

Hydrogen peroxide Turpentine 

For Washing Process. — Washtubs. — Any material that is 
smooth, non-absorbing, and easily cleaned is good for washtubs, so 
that the type of tub is somewhat of a personal matter as to price. 
(See chapter on Plumbing, page 41.) 

Wash benches should have long enough legs so as to lift the 
portable tub to tha comfortable height which will save fatigue. 
Folding benches are great helps where space is limited. 

Stationary tubs may be mounted on gas-pipe legs, cut to the 
proper length, rather than on the molded legs which are sold with the 
tul)S. These molded legs are always too short, but may be made 
longer by means of a metal extension bracelet. (See chapter on 
Plumbing, page 47.) For ease and rapidity of work three tubs will 
l^e most efficient. With a washing machine one tub will do, though 
two are more convenient. Have the tubs so connected by the 
wringer board that it is possible to use the wringer on all tubs, 
and in either direction. 

Wasli-boards come in either glass, zinc, or galvanized iron. The 
metal ones will not crack with a knock or *a fall as easily as will the 
glass. The glass ones, however, are just as efficient, are usually less 
sharp in their corrugations, and are more easily kept clean. The fact 



106 



HOUSEWIFERY 



(){' tlio corrugation being less pronounced is an advantage when 
the wcai- oil \\\o clot lies is considered. Most washhoards liave very 
long feet, so that the ])oard projects up beyond the tub; the feet 
may be shortened with a saw, and it is mucli easier to work with a 
lower board, and a lower board makes it possible to work with less 




Fig. 73. — Types of washing machines. A, the Dolly type, n, dolly; B, a vacuum boiler 
washer; C, pressure and suction type, a, funnel; D, washer with corrugated lining; E, a 
revolving cylinder type; a, inner cylinder perforated; 6, outer cylinder — wooden or copper. 

Courtesy Country Gentlemiin. 



chance of spilling water. High washtnbs will require shorter 
washboards. 

Wri7igers are of greater service when reversible. The stronger 
ones have two side springs and ball-bearing action. The side springs 
add much to the strength and endurance of a wringer, and the ball- 
bearing action is smoother and easier. The wringers have usually 
three- and five-year guarantees, but even the cheaper wringer will go 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



107 



far beyond that time if kept oiled and clean, and if the pressure is 
taken off when not in action. A three-year or five-year wringer is 
not expensive, and is a better purchase than the cheaper ones. 

Washing Machines. — Cost, $12-$150. There are some two hmi- 
dred washing machines on the market; but for study they may all 
be divided into five groups (Fig. 73). Of these five groups, two are 
usually found with wooden tul)S, the other three are likely to have 




Fig. 74. — Pressure and suction washer. Fig. 75. — Rotary washer. The clothes are 

put in this inner cage which revolves in the 
soap and water. The action of the cage re- 
verses, and the load should not be so full that 
the clothes do not drop on each revolution. 
The "drop" causes a displacement of the dirt. 

metal tubs. A wooden tub machine is cheaper in first cost; it 
gives its best service when stored and used in cellars, sheds, barns, 
unheated rooms, or on porches. The continual heat of the house 
causes the wooden machine to dry and shrink, and soon leakage 
results. A wet sponge kept in the machine when not in use may 
furnish enough moisture to prevent this drying. 

One type of the cheaper machines is called a " Dolly." This 
" dolly " is like a four-legged milking stool which by reverse rota- 
tions draws the clothes through the soapsuds. The clothes are 
cleaned by the displacement of dirt brought about by means of fric- 
tion and agitation as they are drawn through the soapsuds. 



108 



HOUSEWIFERY 



The second type of machine has the wash-hoard principle. Two 
corrugated boards, shaped like discs or half cylinders, rub the 
clothes top and bottom, and the mechanical principle is friction, and 
this, with the solvent power of the water, cleans the clothes. 

The remaining three types of macliines are the pressure and 
suction, rotary and osciUating tyjies. The action of the pressure 




Fig. 76. — Oscillating washing machine. 

and suction machines (Fig. T4) depends upon cones which rise and 
fall in the tub, pressing the clothes on the down stroke, and creating 
suction when the cones lift on the up stroke. The clothes are 
cleaned entirely by forcing soap and water through them. There 
is no friction. 

Eotary machines (Fig. 75) are like cages which revolve the 
clothes in soap and water, on the same principle that the coffee 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 109 

roaster turns the coffee beaus in heated air. This cage has open- 
ings of either slits or holes so that soap and water enter freely in 
and around the clothes. The clothes are washed by agitation and 
by the throwing of the clothes, which action comes at each revolu- 
tion of the cage. 

The oscillating machine (Fig. 76) swings like a bab3''s cradle. 
This swinging throws the clothes back and forth and forces soap 
and water through them. There are several types of oscillating 
machines, but the principle of all is the same. 

The washing machines range in cost from $12 to $150, the wide 
range being due to the fact that machines may be bought to be 
operated by hand, and by motor; and the wooden and the metal tubs 
vary greatly in price. Most motor-driven machines have power 
Avringers, which are included in the cost. The housekeeper should 
take this into account when she is awed at first by the price of the 
machine, because she has not only a mechanical washer but a 
mechanical wringer as well, both of which are great labor and 
time savers. Hand-driven machines are not so much labor savers, 
because the hand work is hard, owing to the weight of the material 
when wet in the machine. A hand-driven machine keeps the operator 
busy during the process, while with a motor the woman is free to do 
other things. This must all be considered when cost is studied. 

In localities where one does not have electrical power, the house- 
keeper should look into the question of water motors and gasoline 
engines. A water motor is possible in many localities where the 
water tax is low, and where there is a good force of water in the pipes. 
On farms where there are gasoline engines, it is very easy to attach 
the belt from the engine to the wheel of the power washer, and in 
this case the engine will do the washing and the wringing. A small 
engine may be purchased for the washei: for $40. 

With all this labor saving by the machine itself, best results 
are lacking if, in arranging for the machine, one has not planned to 
have hot and cold water piped directly either by hose or by special 
plumbing to the machine, and the waste water piped directly away 
from the washer by a drain. Do not make this a closed drain, for 
should a small piece of lace or a button, for example, get into the 
drain it probably will be lost or clog the pipe. To set the washer 
into a sunken part of a cement floor which has its own outlet, is a 
very efficient way; if not of cement, this sunken portion may be 



110 HOUSEWIFERY 

lined with a iioavy metal })aii, liaviiifi; an outlet for waste water 
connecting with a sewer or other house drain. 

All wiisliiiii^- machines are measured hy "sheet capacity" — i.e., 
the iiuiiilicr of sheets that can l)e Avasjied in one load, or an equiva- 
leiit Imlk. .Most niacliines wash well six douhle sheets; four towels 
equal in bulk one sheet; three pillow cases equal one sheet. Those 
who expect to operate a washing machine should consider Ijuying 
soap chi])s in l)arrel or half-harrel quantities, and also washing soda 
in ])ow(lcred form. (See chapter on Supplies, page 138.) 

\'arioiis ivashinr/ devices are possible for the housewife who feels 
it unwise to sjiend a larger amount of money for a machine. A 
most complete aid ma}' be made in the home by fastening a tin 
funnel to a sliortened Ijroom handle, cut down at one end to fit 
into the neck of the funnel. The funnel costs about 5 cents to 10 
cents, and really makes a good vacuum hand-washer. Vacuum wash- 
ing devices may l)e purchased from 75 cents to $1.50. They have 
specially designed funnels, which often have smajler funnels inside. 
All this increases the suction. To increase their efficiency, there is 
a perforated soap cup, which produces STids as the washer works the 
funnel up and down in the water. 

There are two percolating washing devices on the principle of 
the ])ercolating coffee pot, which are to be put into the wash-boiler — 
$1.50 to $3.00. As the water heats and expands, it is forced out at 
the spray top of the funnel. A constant circulation is produced 
which forces soap and water through the clothes. The water is 
to percolate over the clothes, just as the liquid coffee does over the 
ground coffee, and after five minutes the clothes are cleaned. These 
percolating devices are suital)le only for white cottons and linens, 
as boiling must be done to have the device Work. T!ie vacuum 
funnel device may be used on all types of materials, but requires 
constant work on the part of the woman. It is a most valuable 
aid for Avashing wools and silks, so valual)le that it would pay to 
own one for that use alone. 

For all these hand devices as for the power machines, the house- 
wife should plan to buy and use soap chips instead of cake soap. 

For Drying Process, Jlaskcis and Hampers. — The container 
for soiled clothes should be free from ornamentation, which collects 
dirt and dust, so that a washalde muslin bag, a papier-mache basket- 
shaped container, or a metal can (Fig. 77) are far better than the 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



111 



much used willow hamper. The baskets to be used in the laundry 
process should be light in weight, and preferably have an adjustable 
muslin lining. These linings are easily cleaned, which is important, 
as the basket is so likely to be soiled. 

Clothespin hags are most useful when shaped and worn like 
an apron with a wade pocket. It is best to have them not too deep, 
the whole apron being shallow and wide. Ticking is the most ser- 
viceable material and can be 
washed easily. For another very 
convenient bag, take a hook like 
a clothes-line hook, such as is 
screwed to the side of the house 
or the fence to hold the clothes- 
line, cut a square of heavy wash- 
able material, and sew the cor- 
ners of the square to the screw. 
Such a bag will hook on the 
clothes-line and slide ahead ol' 
the worker, holding the pins 
always at hand. 

Dryers. — The clothes-line, 
either hemp rope or copper wire, 
gives good service at little cost. 
The copper wire is more efficient 
as it is put up permanently, need- 
ing only to be wiped off Just 
before use. The hemp line will 
stretch, and also will shrink when 
wet, and the soil enters its fibres so deeply when left out perma- 
nently that it is hard to clean, so that it is wiser to take it down 
after each use. 

Patented hangers have been so perfected as to give excellent 
service, especially in small yards and on back porches where the 
clothes may dry in the air even if in a limited space. Some of the 
dryers are of special service for kitchen drying, because they pull 
up to the ceiling, when not in use or when full of clothes. Ee- 
volving umbrella hangers (Fig. 78), having good capacity, take up 
small yard or porch space, at the same time making it possible for 
the clothes to drv in the air. 




Fig. 77 — Clothes container (papier mach6). 



112 



HOUSEWIFERY 



The dryer that is most ellicieiit for all kinds of weather is the 
indoor-heated drver, heeause it is not de})endent upon sunshine for 
drying. Such a dryer may be bought with a stove (Fig. 79) and be 
set up as the house is being built. It may be built into the comer of 
the laundry (Fig. 80), and the two walls so used will reduce the cost 
of installing the dryer, if bought complete and sot up as a unit. 
These dryers are constructed like a kitchen stove, and use either coal, 
gas, or electricity. They must ho connected witli a flue so that 
the moist air from the drying clothes may ])ass out, and not con- 




FiG. 78.— R( 



■lothes dryer. Closes like an umbrella wli 



dense on the clothes. In such a dryer, the drying compartment takes 
the place of the oven in a stove. These dryers may be bought wdth 
one, two, or even three sections, and do better work if the}' have a 
metal track for the pulling out of the racks, for wooden wheels — 
pulley fashion — shrink and crack. 

For Ironing Process. — Sp7'inl'Iers pay to buy, because they do 
the work more rapidly, evenly, and thoroughly, than sprinkling with 
the hand. One of the best kinds costs ten cents and with its cork 
will fit any bottle. Other sprinklers are like flour or sugar shakers, 
or like a bath spray. If one buys this kind, be quite sure the holes 
are very small. 

Ironing hoards may be found to fit the various requirements of 
different housekeepers. ■Many need a kind that occupies little space 
when not in use. The housekeeper used to have to stretch such a 
board between two chairs or a table and a chair; whereas to-day it 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



113 



is possible to purchase a folding board which fastens shelf-fashion 
in a metal bracket. This bracket may be put at any height, and 
the board quickly hooked into it. It is much more efficient and 
costs no more than some of the less sul)stantial folding boards. 
Boards that are permanently set up 

can have a small drawer at the right- •< 

hand end for the storage of wax, iron 
holder, wiping cloth, and even the iron 
when cold could be stored in this way. 
This is a good way to store equipment 
in a laundry or laboratory that is limited 
in space. Most boards are 56 inches 
long, which is the standard size. To 
help in doing up shirtwaists and shirts, 
a square-ended board like those used 
in a commercial laundry is most useful 
(Fig. 81). 

By spending more money, a gas 
stove may be piped directly to the iron- 
ing board, making the outfit a complete 
working unit, entirely saving the worker 
from wasting time and energy by walk- 
ing back and forth to change irons. 
Elaborate ironing equipment of this 
kind may be purchased at some cost, 
but with a little planning on the part 
of the housewife, that is, getting gas 
and board together, she will have good 
equipment with little cost. yx^x xVVxv^xxx^^xxxx^x 

With an electric iron one is more y////y/ //y//Y^^^^ 
likely to take the board to the iron. ^J^- '^9— Diagram of clothes 

. . , dryer. 

Sometimes it would be more satisfac- 
tory to work the other way round. Choose a good light place for 
the ironing board, and have an electric plug attachment placed right 
near to connect the iron (Fig. 82), This is a safer way to use the 
iron, because one is not running the risk of affecting the light. 
(See chapter on Heating and Lighting, page 57.) 

Sleeve hoards are labor savers; not that the sleeve may not be 
ironed as well without the special board, but the time and work are 




114 



HOUSEWIFERY 



niueli reduced. Tliere is no need to pay tlie extra nidiiey for a so- 
called i)added lioai'd, becanse llie j)addiii,<,^ is nsually onl}- sheet 
waddiiii;-, with no lasting (jualilies. Two or three thicknesses of 
doniet or outin<;- llaniiel will make a much better pad. Every house- 
wife may \\v\\ ])lan to have that on hand, for it will pay to buy some 
remnants to use for house cloths, iron wijx's, polishinii- clolhs, aiMJ 
the many tinus when a heavy soft material is wanted. 

Ironituj -hoard J'dds. — As old blankets do not give loug service 
on tlie ironing board, tliey niiglit preferably be kept for some other 




Fig. so. — Metal cluthes-drying cabinut. Stove is part of the dryer. 

use. Heav}' silence cloth, such as is sold to ]n'oteet the dining-room 
table, makes a most serviceable padding. Two layers of the new, 
or three of the old, will make a good pad. The board is better not 
too much padded. Cut these felts large enough to allow about two 
inches for shrinkage ; thumb tacks or tapes will hold them firm, 
unless one chooses to l)uy clamps that come for the purpose at 50 
cents for three ; six would be needed. 

Emhr-oidery pads are always needed for ironing heavy embroid- 
ery. These should be made, and kept ready to use as any other equip- 
ment, and then there will be less likelihood of using a good towel. 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 115 

A piece of felt like that on the ironing board may be cut any size ; 
there is no need to have it large and bulky, 1:^3" x 18" is a good 
size. Cover the felt with muslin; sew the two together so tlie pad 
may be easily cleaned and kept always ready. 

Ironing-board Covers. — Old sheets give no more lasting service 
than old blankets, and can be put to much better service than that 
of ironing-board covers. A heavy unbleached muslin 60" wide may 
be bought, and is most serviceable. The width of this muslin is 




Fig. 81. — Good equipment for ironing. 



long enough to equal the length of the ironing-l)oard cover. Cut 
wide enough to turn under the board about two inches on each side, 
j)ut on a half-inch hem, and sew four tapes on each side if tapes 
are to be used. Clamps or even pins are better ' than tacking, 
as it is better to choose a fastening that is so easy to remove that a 
fresh cover is possible each ironing day if needed. 

Stationary ])oards should have dust covers kept on them when 
not in use. An easy way to make them is to cut them pillow-slip 
fashion, large enough to slip on easily. Portable boards will need 
covers unless one has a closet for laundry equipment, where the 
board may stand away from the dust. 

Irons. — Flat-irons, or sad-irons, are of great service, but to be 
most efficient they should be purchased of different shapes and 



116 HOUSEWIFERY 

weights — from five to eiglit pounds, allowing one or two small ones 
for such work as ehildreirs clothing. The usual number allowed 
to an ironer is three; this insures frequent changes for hot irons. 
Be sure the iron has a smooth base, as irregularities may cause them 
to catch in the goods and mar sucli materials as wools and silks by 
leaving a mark. 

The asbestos irons, irons with removable asbestos jacket and han- 
dle, or irons with portable handles, are preferred by some, but are 
likely not to be as lasting as flat-irons ])ecause of the possibility 
of the handle becoming loose. 

Puffing irons are not needed for the ironing of puffs to-day, but 
if one already owns one, it will be of great service in finishing small 
gathers as baby-dress sleeves and bonnets. 

Iron li.olders may. be purchased in any department or house- 
furnishing store. These usually have one side of asbestos. The 
housekeeper nu^y make one of folded old stockings, covered w4th 
a soft, smooth outer cover of ticking, gingham, or muslin. The 
stockings are especially good as a foundation, because their weave 
makes them more or less non-conductors of heat, and because they 
are soft and easily fold about the handle of the iron. Two iron 
holders for each worker saves the hand, as a cold holder is very 
restful and helps to prevent the hand from getting parched and 
swollen from continual heat. 

Iron rcsis are great savers to the ironing sheet; an asbestos 
sheet, such as is used under a sheet cake tin, will also save the end 
of the board where the iron is set. Put a paper, wiping cloth, iron 
rest, etc., on top of the asbestos sheet. 

Gas, alcohol, I'erosene, gasoline , and electric irons (cost, $3-$6) 
are labor savers because they carry their heat with them, and this 
saves walking to and from the stove to get a hot iron. The avail- 
able fuel will determine which is best to use. These self-heating 
irons reduce the heat of the ironing room, and the heat on the 
worker's hand ; and while gas and electricity are the most used and 
seem the safest, it is only a matter of care and of becoming familiar 
with the other fviels. The main thought must be to beware of 
unexpected draughts that may fan the flame. The gas-iron is 
operated at the end of a rubber gas-pipe ; this pipe Mall be safer and 
give greater service if it is wound with spiral wire to prevent cracking 
the rubber. The electric iron is sensitive to a fall, and to being wet; 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 117 



for increasing its length of service it should have its cord suspended 
by a coiled spring such as is used for a bird cage. To overheat the 
iron, either by using it too continually without turning off the 
power during the ironing of small pieces, or by letting it overheat 
through forgetting that it is turned on, will soon burn out the iron. 
A small one-candle incandescent liglit put in on the electric con- 
nection will indicate when the iron is on, and will be a protection 
against waste and danger. Tlie cost of installing such a safety device 
is small. 





Fig. 82. — Electric ironing table. 



Fig. 83. — Flat-work ironer. 



Flat-worl' ironers, commonly called mangles. Cost, $95-$335. 
These are especially helpful where one has a great many flat house- 
hold pieces to iron. They are' not suited to the ironing of body 
clothes, because no gathers, tucks, or buttons should be put through 
the machine. Such an ironer is not to be used for starched clothes 
because the starch left on the cloth rolls will later hinder the ironing 
of flat work. 

The principle of a mangle involves two or more rolls, which press 
tightly on each other as the fal)ric passes between (Fig. 83). It is 
the same principle as that of a clothes wringer. The simplest ironer 
is called a cold mangle — costing al)out $10 — which has only two 
hard wooden rolls that smooth the garment without any heat. It 
does not gloss or sterilize. Other mangles have a steel roll which 



118 



HOUSEWIFERY 



is heated by gas, gasoline, electricity, or steam. This steel roll is 
like an iron, and tlie second roll is cloth covered like an ironing 
board. The iron and hoard revolve on cadi otlier. 

The efficiency ol' a nianglc is increased by being power driven, 
so that the hands oi' the worker arc free to attend to the ironing. 
Better results are also oljtaincd Ky having the machine wide enough 
to take towels, napkins in single thicknesses, and slieets wdien 
folded in half lengthwise. The economy of the machine, especially 
if electrically heated, is increased by being able to heat only one- 
half of it at a time, as in ironing handkerchiefs and other small 
pieces. The secret of good ironing is that the cylinders press evenly 
on each other, and also that linen be slightly and evenly dampened, 
and allowed to stand some time before ironing. Good sprinkling and 
fohling is perhaps more of a help in machine ironing than in hand 
ironing. A heated j:)ower mangle of household size greatly reduces 
the labor of ironing flat-work; one family, for example, reported 
that these pieces take about oiie-tifth the time required for hand- 
work. 

CLEANING 
Materials and Tools for Cleaning 



i< up plies. ■ 

Alcohol ( wood alcohol may be 

used) 
Animoiiia 
Bath brick 
Borax 

Dutch cleanser 

I'uller's earth or P'rench chalk 
Kerosene 

Lemon oil or linseed oil 
Lime 

Oxalic acid 
Porcella 
Pumice stone 
Putz metal polish 
Rottenstone 
Sal- soda 
Salt 

Silver soap or cream 
Soap 

Soap ])o\vder 
Steel wool — size oo 
Turpentine 



Vinegar 
Wax 
Whiting 
Equipment : 
Bowls 

Box or tray for cleaning materials 
Brooms 

Large 

Small 

Whisk 
Brushes 

Floor, soft hair 

Radiator 

Scrubbing, 2 sizes 

Spotting 

Wall 
Carpet sweeper 
Cloths and substitutes — • 

Broom bag 

Cheese cloth 
dusters 
small cloths 

Cork 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 119 

Cover cloths, special cloths Knife 

or old ticking, etc. Measuring spoon 

Dish cloth, tuh cloth Mop 

Dust cloth Oil can 

Floor cloth, loosely woven Pails 

Xewspapers Sanitary tongs 

Polishing cloth Scissors 

Tissue paper Screw driver 

Waste (cotton) Skewer, wooden 

Dust pan Step ladder 

Flush closet cleaner Vaciuim cleaner 

Hammer Wrench 

There are here presented the important items of cleaning equip- 
ment (Fig. 84), as brushes, mops, cleaning cloths, sweeping mix- 
tures, including labor-saving appliances used in this Avork. The 
processes of cleaning and the supplies necessary are treated respec- 
tively in the chapters on Cleaning and Care (page 240) , and Supplies 
(page 129). 

Brooms and Brushes. — It does not pay to buy cheap brooms 
and brushes. The first cost is less but in the end the cost will be 
greater. The best brushes have solid backs that are made of hard 
wood which does not easily warp; and a good brush should be 
shaped for its special task. Solid backs are especially necessary 
for scrubbing brushes. Upholstery brushes should be made of soft 
hair like a paint brush. Some of them are tapered at the end for 
the crevices and folds around buttons of tufted furniture. For 
the dusting of portieres, satins, and brocades, the regular soft-haired 
paint brush is most satisfactory. Whisk brooms are better for 
cleaning heavy fabrics; they do not mark them as they would a 
velvet or velour. Long-handled brushes with hair bristles for hard- 
wood floors will do the work with less dust, more thoroughly, and 
more easily. Silver brushes should be soft to prevent scratching, but 
firm enough to get in cracks and crevices. They give greater service 
if bought in two sizes, one very thin and narrow to clean around 
handles and in small grooves. Old tooth brushes will save the 
purchasing of a more ex23eusive brush; old nail brushes are not so 
good because they are broad and stubby. 

Brooms should be chosen with such good corn that there are 
no seeds. They may be bought with two types of handles, the light 
bamboo handle and the heavy wooden stick. The lighter broom is 
a great saving to the worker. Hanging the broom will do much 
to lengthen its wear; and if the new broom is plunged into a pail 



120 



HOUSEWIFERY 



of hot water, and allowed to remain in the water until it is cold, it 
seems to have a ,<,n-eater power of endurance. With a hot wire or 
skewer, liorc a hole into the hroom handle and insert a heavy 
string with which to liaiiiT the l)r()oni. Various patented han.^'ers 

are on the market, most of 
them in the nature of clamps, 
which hokl the hroom or 
hi'ush so closely as to prevent 
s\vin<2;in(^, which is noisy and 
marks the door or wall. 

Dust covers, to he used 
for covering up the contents 
of a room while sweeping, 
are good cleaning aids, be- 
cause they save walking, 
carrying, and much extra 
work that used to be con- 
sidered part of a thorough 
cleaning. Unbleached mus- 
lin may be used, but checked 
gingham, or some other ma- 
terial Avith a distinct pattern 
and color Avhicli marks it 
from other sheets for the 
house, is even better. Make 
the covers of such generous 
size that they may be used 
for pieces of furniture of 
various sizes and shapes. Xo 
special size can be given 
except to suggest that two or 
three covers should be large 
enough to cover a bed, a 
couch, or the two or three 
large pieces in each room. Smaller ones are desirable for the chairs 
and book shelves ; and several one- and two-yard squares of the same 
material should be planned as covers for pictures, especially for 
those pictures with heavy carved or ornamented frames. Bags 
of this material can he made for covers, so that the portieres may 




Fig. S-1. — Tools for cleanintr. 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



121 



be dropped down into the ba<^', aud tlicu, by means of drawstrings and 
by pins, this pillowcase covering is brought up close to the curtain 
poles, entirely covering the portiere. 

Long-handled Dustpans. — Cost, 50 cents - 75 cents. The 
housekeeper will find that the long-handled dustpan (Fig. 85), 
even though it does cost about double the price of the short-handled 
one, will l)e a great saving. It does as good work, as far as dust 




Fig. 85. — One worker saves her back; 
the other saves money. 



Fig. 86. — Three tools for sweeping. 



is concerned, as the short-handled one, and if used in conjunc- 
tion with a small broom, often called a child's broom, will be a 
great back saver. 

Dustless sweeper materials aid very much in the cleaning 
process, because they reduce the amount of dusting. These mate- 
rials may be bought in packages at twenty-five cents, or in barrel 
quantities at al)out ten dollars. They are usually finely ground 
sawdust or fine sand into which oil has been worked. The oil takes 
up the dirt as the material is swept along. Bare floors such as tile, 
or wood floors, are most easily swept with these different sweeping 



122 



HOUSEWII-ERY 



materials. The sand in most of the materials makes them inefficient 
in carpet or rug sweeping, heeause it settles in the carjDat and is 
hard to remove. The housewife may make dustless sweeper material 
by using left-over tea leaves, or by tearing bits of newspaper which 
have been sprinkled with water. Sprinkle either the tea leaves or 
the paper on the carpet or floor, and as they are tossed ahead of the 
broom they gather the dirt. A moistened Ijroom is a dustless 

sweeper, but hard on the colors 
of the carpet or on the polish of 
the floors. 

Carpet Sweeper. — Cost, 
.$;!-.$6. This is a small box on 
Avlieels, containing revolving 
brushes which turn as the box 
is |)us1kmI over the floor. It 
makes no dust, is easily o})er- 
ated, takes up threads, and is 
excellent for removino- surface 




Fi(i. S7. — Vacuum sweeper 



dirt. 



'; Vacuum Sweeper, — Cost, $6-$r2. These sweepers (Fig. 87) 
are combined carpet sweepers and vacuum cleaners; they have the 
revolving brush of the carpet sweeper, and the- bellows suction of 
the vacuum sweeper. Their cost is not excessive, and they are 
most satisfactory, with no more fatigiie than with the carpet sweeper. 
Vacuum Cleaners. — Cost, $35-$l"25. The so-called vacuum 
cleaners (Figs. 88 and 89) are divided into piston, bellows, and fan 
types. As washing machines may be divided into hand and power ma- 
chines, so may vacuum cleaners ; and the question comes again as to 
whether a hand tool which involves so much work on the part of the 
operator is a labor saver. The piston and bellows types may be bought 
in the hand machines ; these are not truly labor savers, but are dust 
savers. The piston is like a water shotgun, in that the drawing up 
of the plunger leaves a vacuum into which air goes, carrying with it 
the dirt. This receiving chamber is lined with a soft woolly material 
to which the dirt adheres. These are small, inexpensive, and easily 
carried, but re([uire a great deal of work on the part of the operator. 
The big power machines are divided into fan type and bellows 
type, and may or may not have some form of brush. Sometimes 
these brushes are bristles ; sometimes they are flat revolving bits of 
rubber. As the brush passes over the rug in the same way that the 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



123 



carpet sweeper does, it stirs up the dust and tlirows it back ready 
for the suction. to receive it. These machines are easily operated,, 
efficient in their work, if they have sufficient suction, are not 




Fig. 88. — Vacuum cleaner. Courtesy Franz-Premier. 



necessarily very expensive. The l)ags into which the dust is sucked 
up are usually about equal in efficiency ; they are dust proof and 
under ordinary conditions need not be washed. 

The larger and more powerful machines, while more efficient 



124 HOUSEWIFERY 

from the point of view of producing a better suction, since their 
weight keeps them close to the floor, are so heavy that they are 
difficult for the housewife to operate. The most powerful and most 
expensive macliines cost several hundred dollars and are built to be 
established in the basement of the house with pipes extending 
throughout the house. If this type of machine is to be used, it should 
be planned for Mdicn the house is built, so that the various pipe 
connections may be made in tlie baseboards of each room, and lead 
back to the cellar. A flexible hose then connects the cleaner in any 
desired room with the permanent pipe opening in the baseboard. 

The housewife should consider the weight of the madhine; the 
ease with which it can be cared for; the convenience in oiling; the 
size of slot in the suction end, and facilities for keeping the slot on 
the floor, so that it is. always close to the rug or carpet ; and the final 
test, how much dust, if any, is left in the rug after cleaning. There 
is no better way to settle this latter question than to beat the rug 
and see how much dust can be raised. 

The cheaper machines are usually lighter in weiglit and have a 
smaller motor ; the better machines should have good weight, good 
suction, and the longer slot, which is an advantage in any machine. 
The question as to whether the machine should have a brush or not 
is still not decided. Some of the so-called brushes are hardly worthy 
of the name. What seems more important is whether the nozzle 
is wide and so swivelled as to adjust itself to irregularities of move- 
ment of the worker, and whether the motor is substantial and of 
good size. 

Kemem])er that the suction is broken when the slot is not close 
to the fabric to be cleaned. Yacumn cleaners are not wood polishers, 
but fabric cleaners ; are not washers, but collectors of loose dirt. 
They themselves must be kept clean. . 

Mops. — Cost, 40 cents to $1.50. The use of a mop, whether for 
dusting or for scrubbing, affords a great saving of strength, because 
it eliminates bending and stooping. There are two types of mops 
used in cleaning. A plain deck mop, one with strings fastened 
in a circle around a wooden handle, makes a good dry dust mop. 
A second type is the l)road flat mop; in this the strings or pieces of 
cloth are held in a flat metal clasp attached to a wooden handle. 
This type of mop is best for scrubbing because it wrings better than 
a round one, either in patented mop wringers or by hand ; besides. 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



125 



it slips under places better than does the thicker round deck mop. 

The housekeeper can make a mop like the round ones by using 
an old broom handle and tying about the end of the stick pieces 
of old undershirts or stockings, and then turning them back over the 
tied part and tying a second time. With the mop which has the 
flat clasp fastened to a handle, similar old cloths may be used 
instead of the woven cloth that comes especially for this purpose. 

Dustless mops are string mops with shorter strings which are 
treated with an oil. This oil should be in 
small amounts, just enough to make the 
cloth hold loose dirt. If too much oil is 
used on a dustless mop or duster, it will 
leave a greasy surface which will soon 
attract dust. Continual dusting of this 
kind will make the wood dark and cloudy. 

Mop Wringer.— Cost, $2. This is a 
real labor saver because it saves arm and 
wrist strain in wringing, and protects the 
hands from chapping through being con- 
stantly wet; besides doing the work more 
thoroughly. The wringer should be bought 
with regard to the mop, because size, 
shape and thickness of the mop decide to 
some extent the kind of mop wringer to 
buy. It fits on the mopping pail (Figs. 
OoVnd 91). 

Cleaning cloths are legion to-day, but 
after all, the housekeeper with experience 
will learn that she can buy material by the r^a. 89.— Vacuum cleaner, 
yard of regular standard type, and feel quite assured that she has 
good cleaning material without too much additional expense. With- 
out buying anything, good cloths may often be made from old worn 
garments, if they are clean, non-scratching, and non-linting. Many 
different materials may be used. For cleaning materials that are 
purchased plain cheesecloth, either unbleached, which is the cheap- 
est, or white cheesecloth for a few cents more, and domet flannel 
(the household name for It is outing flannel) , represent two standard 
types. Cheesecloth makes very good dusters, and, when wrung 
very dry out of water, is good for cleaning and may be used with 




126 



HOUSEWIFERY 



the outing flannel for polishiii-;- furniture. Outing flannel makes 
good floor cloths, hroom bags (Fig. 92, A and B), wall wipes, and 
may he used for polishing cloths. The first requirement is that the 
cloth be clean, free from scratchy material, absorbent, and non- 
lint in":. 




Fig. 90. — The long-handled scrub brusli, Fig. 01. — The mop and wringer means 

with its ball-and-socket adjustment, is a most that a woman need never scrub on her 
complete scrub brush. knees. 



In response to the demand to-day for more rapitl work, special 
polishing cloths are made, which are treated with chemicals and 
j^owders that make unnecessary other cleaning powders or mix- 
tures; these are used for cleaning silver and other metals. Their 
D.;aal cost is at least twent"y-five cents. (See chapter on Supplies, 
page 134.) These cloths, when not in use, should be kept in a box 
or a paper wrapping, so as to prevent their getting any extra soil. 

]\nSCELLANEOUS EQUIPINIENT 
Sewing machines may be had in various types, and should be 
found in every home. The disappearing head machine in which 



EQUIPMENT AND LABOR-SAVING APPLIANCES 



127 



the sewing mechanism folds down into the case, leaving a compact 
flat top cabinet, is one desirable type. Electric motors are now avail- 
able to run any sewing machine ($15), and a special niacliine with 
the electric motor attached may be had for about $-10. With the 
small motor suggested below, the regular sewing machine may be 
operated by attaching a belt from the wheel of the motor to the 
wlieel of the machine, although speed adjustment may be difficult. 




Fig. 92. — .4, various typea of floor cloths; B, broom bags fouud ready made in stores. 
Domet flannel makes good broom bags. 



Small Electric Motor. — Cost, $15-$40. Efficiency students 
who are working with small electric motors for household use, 
pronounce them almost human in their serviceableness. Such a 
motor should be placed where it will be of most use, and when one 
is purchased separate motors for individual appliances are not 
needed. Such a motor could work the cofi'ee mill, the sewing 
machine, the ice-cream freezer, the bread mixer, and the washing 
machine. Each machine must have a wheel for the belt which in 



128 IIOlISEWIFIi^EY 

liii'ii nuist be kept tight, and the motor must liavc power to do the 
work. A'oltage and current must l)e considered. (See chapter on 
Heating and l^ighting, page (><).) 

Electric Fan. — Cost, $5 up. xVn electric fan gives great service 
]iot only tor use in the kitchen and hiundry during hot weather, 
but also for use in t\w. rest portion o(! the house. Modern science 
shows that we keep cool by rapidly changing the layer of air that 
surrounds us. On a cold day a fan directed against the steam- or 
hot-water radiator Avill more quickly wann a room, A fan is used 
in the latest method of drying fruits and vegctaihles. 

Canning Outfit. — The outfit may consist of a pressure cooker 
($8-$10), a soldering outfit, and a t^upply of tin cans, or of glass 
cans with new rubbers if preferred. Fruits and vegetables are now 
also preserved by drying in an oven, by the sun, or by air currents 
from an electric fan. The small utensils needed can of course be 
taken from the regular, kitchen outfit. 

Milk Separator. — In the farm home, a milk separator is indis- 
pensable. It is operated either by hand or by power ; a power sejjara- 
tor should be had if much milk is to he handled. The separator 
is a centrifuge in which, by the rapid revolution of a l30wl or 
cylinder containiug whole milk, the heavier part or the skim milk 
is throA\ai out toward the circumference, and the light part or cream 
is held toward the center, each passing out of the '^^separator" by 
an appropriate outlet. While separators vary in construction, the 
principle that the revolution throws the heavier liquid to the outer 
circumference is the same in all. The housekeeper must, of course, 
be very careful that the separator be kept clean and sweet-smelling. 

SUGOESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. In what ways would you increase the efficiency of a washing machine? 

2. Wliat care should be given to a vacuum cleaner? 

.■?. Were an electric motor or a gasoline engine to be attached to a sewing 
machine or a washing machine, what special care must be used in 
making the connections so as to get the most economical service? 

4. What care should be given to an electric motor on a machine? 

5. List five labor savers that are not operated by a motor. 

REFERENCES 
Baij)erston, L. Ray, Laundering. L. Rav Balderston, 1224 C'herrv St. 

Phila. 
CooLEY, INI. S., Vacuum Cleaning Systems. Heating and Ventilatang 

Magazine Co. 
TVIacLeod, Sarah, Handbook op Cleaning. Harper &• Bros. 
Parloa, Maria, Home Economics. Century Co. 



CHAPTEE VI 
HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 

Supplies go hand in hand with tools, so that the two together 
may rightly he called the working equipment. In buying supplies, 
as in selecting tools, the housewife should consider : quality, price, 
and quantity ; and there is always the question of the kind of sup- 
plies best fitted to a task. In manj^ cases there may be two or three 
equally good for a given use so that the housekeeper must make a 
personal selection. There may be no reason for one choice over 
another except likes and dislikes, that large ^jersonal equation which 
keeps housekeeping more or less an individual j^roblem, and which 
will always prevent any complete standardizing of its tasks. 

This chapter presents general rules in buying, applicable to all 
household supplies, and then presents standards for selecting 
cleaners and polishes, soaps, starch, blues, sewing supjolies and paper 
and desk supplies for the home. 

Rules for Buying All Supplies. — Choose a reliable store, where 
standards are good — this means fast colors ; weight as stated ; fresh 
goods ; percentage of moisture, coarseness, etc., standard ; size, meas- 
ure, or count accurate. 

Learn by experience which are your best stores and keep to them ; 
if you are new in the neighborhood, go to the store where the stand- 
ard seems too high to sell falsely. 

Select the goods personally; until you know the store and the 
goods, and the store knows you, do not buy over the 'phone or 
through a catalogue. 

Check up the amount, the quality, and the price on returning 
home ; this will be the best study towards becoming an expert buyer. 

Buy regular standard necessities when special sales are offered, 
but be sure to know the regular price and regular quality. 

Buy only what is needed and can be used. It is not a bargain if 
it lies on the shelf until it deteriorates. 

Be considerate of clerks. 

Do not demand impossibilities. 

Know what is wanted, hence reduce deliver}' service and elim- 
inate return service. 

9 129 



130 HOUSEWIFERY 

Either pay cash or settle the bills promptly; stores demanding 
cash can sell more cheaply; you pay more for the privilege of charg- 
ing — it may be worth the extra cost, but do your share by paying 
bills promptly. 

Patronize stores for special supplies; e.g., the paint store, the 
laundry supply house. Laundry supply houses are established in all 
large cities and the quality they handle is quite assured. Parcel 
post makes it possible to send an order ; for after using any supply, 
it can easily be ol)tained again through its number or size. 

CLEANERS AND POLISHES 

The housekeeper who plans to do a great deal of the renewing 
or renovating of woodwork will need a small amount of many sup- 
plies. As the amount needed will often be less than she can buy, 
she will have to plan for storage either by buying suitable containers 
or by purchasing supplies in containers at perhaps extra cost. The 
matter of containers must be considered because much of this kind 
of material is either poisonous or inflammable. Label everything 
plainly (a little shellac will assure the labels sticking) and store 
away from the fire. Eemember even the cloths and brushes used 
in this work, if not washed, must be stored in closed tin pails or 
stone crocks. 

Beeswax is purchasable at the paint store or in the laundry 
supply house. Beeswax is the foundation of floor wax (see chapter 
on Kenovation, page 295), and the same wax is used for waxing 
irons. It is sold as yellow or white wax, but usually is yellow, Avhich 
is not only best but less expensive. 

Paraffin wax is made from petroleum, and is often sold 
as white wax. It is the best Avax for white goods because the 
yellow wax is likely to darken the wood. It is also used in laundering. 

Paraffin oil is distilled as an after-product in distilling kero- 
sene. It is a non-fatty oil, and therefore is most excellent for pol- 
ishing woods. It mixes well with alcohol or tur}3entine and on 
account of color is good for light woods. 

Linseed oil is the oil pressed from linseed, and may be pur- 
chased at the same place as the wax. It is sold as raw or boiled. 
The raw oil is the crude oil pressed from the seeds without warm- 
ing them ; the boiled oil has been treated in such a way as to increase 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 131 

its drying power. For almost all household uses such as floors, wood- 
work, and furniture, the boiled linseed oil is used. 

Kerosene is useful as a cleaning oil, because it dissolves rosin 
and wax ; it is used for cleaning machinery, rusty iron, etc. It is in 
no way a lul)ricating oil like a machine oil. 

Lemon oil is a volatile oil obtained from pressing the rinds of 
lemons, oranges, tangarines, or limes. The finer qualities al-e used 
for perfumes or flavorings, while the cruder oils which are added to 
light petroleum products may be purchased in paint shops or house- 
furnishing stores, to be used for the oiling of lighter colored woods, 
and are often used as floor oils. This oil is volatile enough to dry 
almost immediately, affording less opportunity for it to gather dust. 

Turpentine is a distilled rosin-like liquid made from the pitch- 
pine tree. The volatile oil or spirit of turpentine passes over first, 
in the distillation, and the residue is rosin. When fresh, turpentine 
is almost colorless and odorless, growing darker, so dark as to make 
a stain of its o^^^l if used as it so often is to remove paint from 
clothing. Combined with wax (see chapter on Cleaning and Eeno- 
vation, page 295), it makes an excellent floor wax. 

Turpentine should be kept away from fires and should be stored 
ill tightly closed containers. Brushes and cloths used with turpen- 
tine should be washed or burned, or kept in tightly closed cans or 
crocks after their use. 

Naphtha and benzine are sold as one and the same. Like 
kerosene and gasoline they are derived from mineral oil ; they are 
volatile (second only to gasoline) and give off inflammable vapors. 
They should always be used with great care, with windows open and 
no fires or open light about, and should be kept tightly closed when 
not in use. Naphtha dissolves rubber and is used like kerosene for 
cleaning the rolls of clothes wringers (see rubber goods, chapter on 
Storage, page 235) ; it dissolves fat and is used for cleaning fabrics; 
it dissolves varnish and a drop on the rubbing cloth will often restore 
wood marred by heat ; it kills vermin and is one of the insecticides 
most used for bedbugs, ants, and fleas (see chapter on Household 
Pests, pages 312, 314). 

Gasoline is nearly as volatile and inflammable as naphtha 
and benzine, and should be used with the utmost care to prevent fire. 
"With any one of the three materials, have all windows open, and 
no flames present from matches, lamps, or stoves; and after its 



132 HOUSEWIFERY 

use allow plenty of time for tliorougli airing before bringing the 
article into service. This is especially true for mattresses or up- 
holstered furniture that may have been gasolined for moths or other 
pests. Such thick material would be slow to allow evaporation of 
gasoline. Clothing that Jias been gasolined and thorouglihj aired for 
several hours may be placed in a warm place, as heat will drive off 
the last unpleasant odors. Pressing with a warm iron produces 
the same result. But apply no heat until after thorough airing. 

Machine oil should be of the best, free from rosin or any gum, 
and its (piality will soon be proved because no gum residue will 
form to hinder the action rather than lul)ricate. Good sewing 
machine oil can be used for oiling Avashing machines, sewing or 
sweeping machines, or other household machinery. 

Furniture Polishes. — Prepared furniture polishes may be ex- 
pensive, and too often contain quite a little varnish which if used 
too frequently will result in a sticky gum deposit on the furniture. 
Cheap varnishes contain rosin which will in time give a stick\f 
finish. It is a little more work to make a preparation, but if one 
has the ingredients in the house to use separately at various times, 
why not take time to combine them. 

Miss Parloa ^ gives standard directions for the two following 
preparations : 

Furniture Cleaner and Polisher. — Put into a quart bottle, in 
the order named : 

% cup powdered rottenstone 
i/o cup cold-drawn linseed oil 
1/2 cup turpentine 
3/2 cup najjhtha 

1/2 cup strong solution oxalic acid 
14 cup wood alcohol 

% cup cold water to which has been added 
1 tablespoon of sulphuric acid. 

WoJ- for Polishing Furnilure. — 

1 lb. beeswax 
1 ])t. turpentine 
14 pt. alcohol. 

^Parloa, Maria, Home Economics, pages 332, 333. 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 133 

Melt wax in an earthen bowl over water. When melted, withdraw 
from the fire and with a wooden spoon stir the other two ingredients 
into the wax. Stir continnouslj so the wax as it cools may hold 
the liquids. The mixture when finished is a grayish cream paste 
ready to be used any time. Apply with a soft woolen cloth, using 
only the least possible amount, but with much rubbing. 

Rottenstone is a fine gray powder not unlike powdered pumice 
in appearance and action. It may be bought as 23umice stone or pow- 
dered tripoli at the paint shop. Like any gritty substance, it works 
best with a lubricator like oil. In this way it cleans and polishes. 
Either powder may be purchased by the pound and stored any 
length of time. 

Steel wool is a polishing material, sold in packages at the jsaint 
shop. It is steel shavings and may be bought in graded sizes like 
sandpaper. The heavier, coarser wool is more like shavings and is 
especially good to be used like heavy sandpaper on coarse uneven 
wood. Like the heavy sandpaper it will clean rapidly but leaves a 
deeply scratched surface which will need to be snioothed down by 
using either very fine sandjiaper or the steel wool that is so fine it is 
like hair. This finer is graded as " 00.-" Any of it may be bought 
in ten- and fifteen-cent packages. 

Metal polishes are usually sold as pastes, powders, or liquids and 
are many in number. One distinction may be made, that silver 
and gold polishes should be free from grit and contain no acids; 
while brass, copper, and nickel polishes usually contain some acid. 
Aluminum polish should have no alkali like soda or potash. 

These cleaners, like many supplies, should be bought in small 
rather than large jars, as part of the material is very volatile and 
the whole content is likely to dry and be wasted. Keep the covers 
on ; take the paste out on the cloth rather than put the cloth in the 
jar. Moisten with alcohol when moisture is necessary. Keep the 
covers tightly screwed when not in use. If a liquid, ahvays shake 
before using. 

Silver Cleaners. — A good silver cleaner may be standardized 
from two ^^ewpoints somewhat as follows : For the preservation of 
the silver, the best cleaner should be free from strong chemicals, and 
from coarse abrasive material ; it should leave a good color tone — 
not a steel-like brightness. For the comfort of the worker, the 



134 HOUSE W IF' Em' 

(■leaner should be free from dust, and sliindd not iinolve too inucli 
lubur and time in its use. 

Silver cleaners are divided into five <i-roups: the rouge cloths, 
powders, pastes, soaps (prepared mixtures), cleaning pans 
(frontispiece). 

The rouge dotlis are soft cloths of the nature of outing flannel, 
dipped into a cleaning mixture which adheres to the cloth. They 
are effective cleaners, and very satisfactory for one having only 
jewelry or bedroom silver to clean, or for one travelling. They 
are expensive to use for a large household, because the cloths are 
very small and soon wear into a hole, and cannot be renovated. 
(See Cleaning Equipment, page 118.) These cloths are not washed, 
but the silver, after having been cleaned with them, should be 
washed thoroughly, as after all other cleaners. 

Powders may be bought under trade names, or, more cheaply, 
as whiting or calcium carbonate, which is sold in packages labelled 
" Paris White," costing from five to ten cents a pound. The disad- 
vantage of the powders is that they create considerable dust, which 
is disagreeable for the worker and necessitates an extra dusting 
after their use. This disadvantage may be partly overcome by 
moistening the powder with a few drops of water or alcohol; use 
only enough to make the powder into a thick paste. Owing to the 
objection to this dust, many of the former cleaning powders have 
been converted by the manufacturers into pastes, so that now the 
housewife may have her favorite cleaner in a form all ready to use. 

The pasfcs and soaps are both satisfactory because they create 
no dust ; another advantage lies in the fact that the careless worker 
cannot possibly avoid washing the silver afterward. The soaps are 
probablv less Avasteful tlian tlie ]iastes, l)nt are no more satisfactory 
as cleaners. 

Various " silver cleaning pans " are now on the market. Their 
action is very rapid, so much so that the housewife may question 
whether there is not possibly a harmful effect on the silver. While 
the action is chemical, it is more in the nature of electrolysis. In a 
cleaning pan, or a device to be put into a pan, there are usually 
two metals, zinc and aluminum ; baking soda, salt, and hot water 
are the reagents used ; when the silver is put into the pan, it rests on 
an ahmiinum base which is to a certain extent like an electrode, and 
action takes place between the metals and the chemicals. The 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 135 

question as to whether the silver is injured by such a method may be 
answered by an examination of the cleaned silver under a magnifying 
glass. The surface will be found to be much less " irritated " than 
that of silver rubbed with some one of the polishes. The loss by 
weight is negligible. However, the silver will not have a soft satiny 
appearance after such cleaning. It seems that such a method with 
these pans, if not over-used, is not any more detrimental than any 
other method of cleaning silver. (See also chapters on Kitchen 
Equipment, page 97, and Cleaning and Care, page 263.) 

Whiting is conveniently bought in pound packages. As it is 
the foundation of most cleaners, much can be done by buying whit- 
ing and making it into a paste \Wth a liquid as indicated below. 
The liquid pro])ably plays a two-fold part, forming the powder into 
a paste, and supplying a dirt, grease or metal solvent. Whiting 
with alcohol (wood or denatured) for silver; whiting with ammonia 
for nickel; whiting with dilute acid (see below) (kerosene 
may be added) for metals : aluminum, brass, copper, nickel ; whiting 
with warm water for white enamel paint ; whiting with steel wool 
for aluminum. 

Bath brick is now put up in package form as a powdered brick 
dust, and is much more satisfactory. The old bath brick was sold in 
brick form, and had to be pulverized as needed. It is the best steel 
cleaner, and can also be used as the grit to clean soiled pots and pans. 

Acids. — Oxalic acid, hydrochloric acid, salts of lemon, and 
citric acid, are of special service in the home. They are used to 
remove spots from clothing such as iron rust, ink (see chapter on 
Eenovation, page 275) ; or as cleaners when mixed with oils and 
abrasive materials, as in furniture polishes and cleaners; and as 
cleaners for metals in dissolving the dark oxides such as form with 
any exposed metal. These acids are poisons, hence should be .used 
with great care, so that they "will not be mistaken for some- 
thing else, and so that every trace vdll be washed out of all dishes 
used in cooking and serving. These acids should be properly 
labelled and stored where children can not reach them. For 
cleaning kettles, vinegar or lemon juice will do the same work 
in a slower way but without the risk of handling a poison. 

Ammonia. — The housewife will find it economical to buy con- 
centrated ammonia and dilute it with water, using 1 part ammonia 



136 HOUSEWIFERY 

to 5 parts of water. The best quality of ammonia is cloudy. For 
scouring, ammonia in solid form is sold in cans as ammonium 
carbonate, but the licjuid ainiiionia diluted is best for all purposes. 

SOAP, SODA AND SCOURERS 

Soap. — A good soap is one that is free from alkali (either soda 
or potash) and from any coloring which could hide impurities in the 
soap. Clean fat is light yellow or white, and if the soap is made 
from clean fat it will naturally be a very light color. 

Alkali can be detected by a pungent odor, which cannot come 
from rosin if the soap is light or white. It is also possible to recog- 
nize the presence of alkali by the shrivelled, drawn, and. finally 
dried feeling of the hands after its use. A surer test is to use a 
piece of moistened red litmus paper. Moisten it with clean water 
(not by the saliva of the mouth), and lay the paper on the soap to 
be tested, choosing a fresh cut surface preferably in the center of the 
cake. If there is excess alkali present, the red paper "will quickly 
turn blue. Soap salesmen test for alkali by holding a bit of soap in 
the mouth to see if it bites the tongue. Alkali is caustic. 

Rosin can be detected by the odor, by the stickiness of the soap, 
and by the gummy, sticky scum decidedly resinous in character, 
which forms on the water line of the clothes boiler. It is to the 
housewife's advantage to buy more of the so-called white soaps, 
because they are likely to contain little or no rosin, which is used 
as an adulterant to weight the soap. Eosin does produce a suds, 
and for that reason may be said to aid in the cleaning ; but its sticky 
quality is a decided hindrance and in addition it is in the nature of 
an adulteration in the soap. 

Ammonia, borax, or soda in the fonu of washing soda, is often 
added to the home-made soap by the housewife as the soap is form- 
ing, and before it is to be poured into molds. For scrubbing, and 
for general hea\7 work where brushes and mops are used, this soap 
has an advantage, because any of the ingredients mentioned cut 
the dirt. Ammonia and borax are mild alkalies and have no un- 
pleasant action on the skin, but will affect delicate colors. Extra 
soda in a scrubbing soap is a great advantage because it cuts the 
grease. It is an advantage in purchasing scrubbing soaps, provided 
it is not bought at soap price, which is nearly three times that of 
soda. 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 137 

Coloring matter in laundry soaps acts as a curtain to hide 
materials that are false constituents ; white soaps are to be preferred. 
The toilet soaps are often colored violet or rose, for example, because 
the soaps are scented with the volatile oils from these flowers. The 
cost of scented and colored toilet soaps should warrant at least a 
good clean fat and a fine perfume. Usually such a soap is molded 
into a very small cake and its cost is double that of better house- 
hold soaps, which are equally efficient as toilet soaps. 

It is economical to buy soap in large quantities. In the first 
place, there is the usual grocery saving like six or three cakes for a 
quarter, and sometimes a larger saving in larger amounts. There is 
the advantage, too, to the housewife of having enough soap in storage 
to allow time for it to dry before use. Drying soap is a, saving, but 
it fails in economy if the soap becomes so dry that it does not lather 
quickly, and the housewife's lost time more than offsets the money 
saving. In small families where soap is bought in box quantities 
because it is less expensive, and where it is not nsed up so quickly 
as in large families, it is wisest not to unwrap those cakes wliich 
are to be used last. 

All scraps of soap should be saved for use in dishwashing, in the 
clothes boiler, or for soap solution for the washing machine. Put 
these scraps into a jar, with water, and as fast as the soap jelly is 
used, add more water to the remaining scraps of soap. 

Soap Making. — The two things necessary to make soap are fat 
and alkali. Fat may be obtained in the kitchen by tr\4ng out meat 
trimmings and suet, and discarded fat from deep fat frying, and 
other fats. Store in a cool place until several pounds have 
accumulated. Prepare the fat by melting, a raw potato cooked with 
the fat will help to clarify it. When still warm strain through 
cheesecloth. The alkali is sold as caustic soda; it is bought in 
lump form at the drug store or chemists' supply house, or lye may be 
bought in cans. One pound of this soda combines with 7 pounds of 
fat to make soap. 

To Prepare the Solution. — Dissolve 1 pound caustic soda in 
5 pints of water, or 1 can lye in 1 quart water. 

To Make the Soap. — One pound clean fat warmed, and 14 oz. 
(1% cups) soda or lye solution. Warm the fat just enough to melt 
it. Stir the soda solution into the fat until the mixture becomes 
a smooth creamy mass, then mold. 



138 HOUSEWIFERY 

To Void. — Line an enamel pan or cardlioard l)ox with waxed 
})aj)er cut into strips the width of the box (like the paper in' candy 
boxes). Povir the soap mixture into the box and let stand until 
soap is well formed {'l\ hours). Before it dries remove the paper 
as from a warm calvo after taking from, the oven. 

Soap chips, so-called, may be purchased from all soap manu- 
facturing companies and from laundry supply houses. Most of 
the brands may be purchased in ten-, fifteen-, or twenty-five-pound 
packages or in barrel quantities. One pound of soap chips to four 
gallons of water makes a soaj) solution which is especially suitable 
for use in washing machines. One has used enough soap solution 
when the suds remain and a scum does not form in the Avashing. 
The greasy or more soiled clothes will need more soap. Often 
two cups of the above solution to a seven-sheet washer is enough. 

Soda. — In the same place where soap is purchased a type of 
powdered washing soda especially suitable for laundry purposes can 
be bought. This soda is sometimes spoken of in the trade as " acid 
alkali "' because it is the washing soda with some of its astringent 
caustic properties removed. This soda makes a saving in the soap 
l)ill, because its cost is about one-third that of soap, and it is espe- 
cially serviceable in doing laundry work where the water is very 
hard. It may be made into a soap solution by using one pound of 
soap, and one to two pounds of prepared soda to every four gallons 
of water. The saving will be very noticeable if the measurement 
of this prepared solution is compared with the solution without soda, 
remembering that soap enough has not been used in the water until 
a lasting suds is produced. Warm water produces more suds than 
cold. 

Soap Powders. — Soap powders or washing powders are usually 
purchased in small packages from the grocery. These packages 
Aveigh from one to three pounds. It is possible, however, to buy 
these powders in barrel quantities. These powders are much used 
because, like soap chips, they readily dissolve, forming a suds. 

A^ery few soap powders are pure soap. The proportion of soda 
varies, but its presence is easily tested by sprinkling a few grains in 
the fire, when a yellow flame characteristic of soda will appear; 
also, Avatch the effect on the skin, for a parched dry skin after 
washing and a much puckered skin during wasliing indicates soda. 

A soap powder containing soda may be very extravagant if one 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 139 

buys it at soap rates, or if used carelessly, or if used in washing 
gold-decorated china or fine woolens and silks, to say nothing of 
colors, all of which will probably be injured by it. When used, 
always dissolve in the wash water; never use except for white 
cottons and linens ; never boil with clothes. Soda yellows silks and 
wools and too often fades colors. 

All this shows why it is miich better to buy soda as soda and 
soap as soap, and mix or use the two known supplies when and as 
needed. 

Soap bark may be bought in laundry supply houses or in drug 
stores ; it will be much cheaper from the former place. It keeps 
indefinitely, ajid as it is to be used in quantities of one cup of soap 
bark to one quart of wash water, it is advisable to buy it in large 
quantity, at least two or three pounds ; it weighs light. Its special 
value is to wash dark silks and cottons, where the alkaline reaction 
of soap may do harm to the colors. Do not use for white or light 
fabrics. 

Scourers or Cleaners. — Scourers should be bought after con- 
sidering the various methods of cleaning, the different utensils and 
metals, as well as the different furnishings about the house. In 
this way one will be sure to have some soaps, some pastes, and some 
abrasive cleaners, together with one or two mixtures which may 
contain enough soda to be special cleaners for greasy substances. 
Buy these packages, cakes, or jars of scouring material in small 
quantities because many of them dry or deteriorate when exposed 
to the air. The small discount allowed to one buying such supplies 
in quantities is too small to warrant the risk of much waste. 
Workers in institutions should buy in larger, wholesale quantities. 

STARCH 

The essentials of a good starch are that it shall give a certain 
degree of stiffness but still keep the fabric pliable; give a body 
which is as lasting as possible to the fabric; resist moisture, and 
give clear" good color as well as gloss and finish. 

Tliere are three kinds of starch, as well as several substitutes 
which are especially suited for the laundry. The usual starches are 
cornstarch, wheat starch, and rice starch. Potato starch is not 
desirable as it absorbs more water than the other starches when in 
the garment, so that the garment will not wear so well. 



140 HOUSEWIFERY 

Cornstarch is a fine grain starcli from corn, which lias the special 
power of making a starch paste which resists moisture. It makes 
a fabric stiff, rough and brittle. Cornstarch is therefore better 
adapted to tbe starcliing of cuffs and collars than to the finishing 
of a baby dress. 

Wheat starch makes a soft pliable fabric, giving a smooth finish 
and a good gloss. It is most suitable for fine lingerie. 

Corn and wheat starch combined give better results than if used 
singl}'. For this mixture use two-thirds to one-third, according 
to the stifi^ness or pliability desired. For example : for shirt bosoms, 
collars, cufi^s, etc., use two-thirds cornstarch and one-third wheat; 
while for petticoats, dresses, etc., use one-third cornstarch to two- 
thirds wheat starch. Mixed starches blended for the purpose may 
be bought at laundry supply houses under the name of blended 
or modified. 

Rice starch is i;sed most often for fine French lingerie. It has a 
very small grain and makes starch of a very plial)le nature. It 
may be bought in packages, or may be ol>tained by using the water 
in which rice is cooked. 

Prepared Starches. — A specially prepared starch may be bought 
at the laundry supply hoiiscs in household quantities. This pre- 
pared starch has paraffin and borax mixed in standard proportions, 
so that with a standard recipe, using twelve ounces of starch to a 
gallon of water, one has a standard quality of paste. There are 
laundry and hospital supply houses in all large cities, from which 
these materials may be secured by parcel post. It is of especial 
advantage if one is attempting to do any of this work as a business. 

Mourning starch is purchasable in pound packages, and is 
of service in laundering blacks and browns, but it is not necessary, 
as tea used with ordinary starch serves the same purpose. 

Color tints may l)e obtained in powdered form or in pastes 
such as are used for coloring candies and icings. Some dyes may be 
purchased in soap form. Various shades of crepe paper will bleed 
enough color in a quantity of water, and this water may be added 
to the rinse water or to starch water. 

Starch substitutes are of great value in taking the place of 
starch in case of an emergency, or for doing fine lingerie work where 
the penetrability of the stiffening agent is the chief requirement. 

Borax is usually bought in powder form. Voiles or dimities 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 141 

and any sheer material like fine collars and jabots appear more 
like new material if rinsed in borax water instead of starch water. 
Borax is a bleach and if only a part of a garment is starched with 
borax, that part on standing will whiten. 

Gum arable may be purchased as a powder or in lump form. 
Either will dissolve quickly in warm water, requiring about half 
as much time for the powder as for the gum. Gum arable is espe- 
cially useful in stiffening silks and crepes. It gives a new-fabric 
appearance. It is used in such small quantities and so seldom, 
that from trv^o to four ounces from the drug store will be ample. 
It is used in the proportion of one teaspoonful to one quart of water 
and must be strained before using. 

Dextrine is a gum. It is starch partially digested into a sugar 
and so is neither a starch nor a sugar. If one has gum arable in the 
house, there is no need to use dextrine. Some especially prepared 
starches that are sold for fine lingerie are dextrinized starch. This 
starch makes a more penetrating stiffening. 

Bran is used in the place of soap for Avashing cretonnes and 
colors and, like grated potato put in the water, will carry some 
starch with it. No bran is absolutely free from starch, and if the 
garment after washing is rinsed in bran water instead of clear 
water, it will take up some starch, enough to give the appearance 
of a new fabric. 

BLUING 

After rinsing the clothes entirely free from soap, the use of blue 
water will counteract the yellow of the fibre and the clothes will 
become whiter than without its use. 

A good blue should entirely dissolve in water and should contain 
no iron. 

An insoluble blue is an inconvenience because it settles on the 
sides and the bottom of the tub, and may even settle in the folds 
of the garment, causing -streaks and spots which must be washed 
or boiled out. It is also an unnecessary expense because all the 
bluing bought is not usable. If an insoluble blue is used, the water 
should be stirred each time a garment is put in so as to keep the 
particles in suspension, otherwise they will settle. 

Liquid blues are easy to use and are soluble, but care must be 
taken that thev and other blues do not contain iron. Clothes that 
are not properly rinsed so as to be entirely free from soap before 



142 HOUSEWIFERY 

bluing will often show, upon ironing, streaks or spots of iron rust. 
The sotla or potash of the soap has combined with the iron of the 
blue, and iron rust develops on ironing. It is a chemical formation 
and may be overcome either by a better choice of blue, or by tlior- 
ougldy rinsing out all soap before bluing. 

To test a bluing for iron, put a teaspoonful of liquid blue, or 
shave off some of the ball or block blue, into a tablespoonful of water 
and to this add a strong solution of soap or soda. Heat this mix- 
ture, and if iron is present the bluing will change to a reddish brown. 

To test solubility, put a few grains of powdered blue in water, 
shake and let stand to dissolve. Filter through filter paper or fine 
cloth and if soluble no residue will remain. 

Bluing is usually bought at grocery stores, but the laundry 
supply houses have the greatest variety of blues, and will sell in 
small quantities like one ounce. 

Aniline blue is the standard blue and is soluble and without iron. 
It is very strong, not being diluted, and may be purchased as a pow- 
der, ready to be dissolved. Put one ounce of powder into one gallon 
of warm water and all will dissolve ; filter, bottle and store for use. 
Of this solution, use one teaspoon for an ordinary washtub of water. 
Aniline blues are sold by number, which indicates color, blue or 
violet, and whether an acid is needed to develop the color or not. 
For household purposes, buy the blue tint and the kind not needing 
an acid, called anti-sour. 

SEWIXG SUPPLIES 

So little time is used in being forehanded and so much lost when 
the needed article is not at hand. This is true with regard to all 
supplies, but is true to even a greater extent with sewing supplies. 
These supplies are usually of standard sizes and quantities and of 
permanent quality; so, as far as cost is concerned, it is as cheap 
to buy at one time as another, and certainly a needle and thread, 
or a hook and eye, when needed is most urgently needed at the 
moment. 

The experienced housekeeper requires little help in this econ- 
omy, but those younger in experience may be grateful for a suggestive 
list. A\Tiy not buy such requisites as the following the very first day 
one goes to a store, and then certain necessities will have become 
comforts, by being on hand when needed? 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 143 

Thread : 

Spool cotton, white and black, sizes 40-90. 

Spool silk, white, 0-A-B (2 size spools, large and small). 

Spool silk, black, 0-A-B (2 size spools). 

Spool silk, light blue, A. 

Spool silk, light pink, A. 

Basting cotton, size 60. 

Heavy linen thread, spool or skein. 

Darning cotton, black and white mercerized. 
Needles : 

Darning needles, sizes 3-9, 5-10. (Separate papers of one size may be 

lX)Ugllt. ) 

Sewing needles, sizes 0, 7, 8, 9, 10. 
Large sack needle or heavy darning needle. 
Bodkin — tape needle. 
Pins : 

Paper or box of pins (cheaper by the box; y^ lb.). 

TVo sizes are convenient, but if one size is bought choose one not 
too large. 
Safety pins, three sizes. 

Steel or nickel plated. The steel is more expensive but has a good 
needle point. 
Hooks, Eyes, and Peets: 

Black and white, non-rusting, sizes 1, 2, 3. 
Snappers : 

Black and white, sizes 4/0, 3/0, 2/0, 1/0, 00. 
Measure: 

Tape measure. 
Yard stick. 

Neither expensive; the tape especially good for sewing, and yard 
stick for accurate measurements about the house. 
Tapes : 

Cotton — two or three rolls of cheap cotton tape for broom bags, hang- 
ing loops, or places where tapes are firmer than string. 
English twilled — best quality for bindings. 

Linen — special bindings fori shoe bags, for sturdy bindings and facings. 
Bias Bindings — for finishing; 

for mending or replacing in tears. 
(Several sizes — 2-8.) 
Ribbon Binding — black and white. 
Used for rough edges of seams. 
Most useful for mending. 
Lingerie Tape — for drawstrings in underwear; serviceable and wash- 

ah\e; good to replace the broken drawstring. 
Feather Stitoh Binding — for finishing where a plain bias binding could 

be used. 
Belting— to replace shrunken belts. 

(All belting shrinks about 2 inches to the yard.) 
Shoe Lacers — black, botli short and long. 

Color to match usual color worn. 
Corset Lacers — a pair of short ones. 
One long lace. 



144 HOUSEWIFERY 

Edging : 

Narrow embroidery to set into tiers, 2 widths. 

Narrow^ lace to set into tiers, 2 widths. 

Coarse net for foundation for darning large tears. 
Muslins : 

Batiste or lawn, foi*' mending. 

Muslin, light weight, for mending, 
heavy, for mending. 
Emery Ball: 

For clenning needles. 
Wax: 

For waxing heavy threads. 
(^ollar: 

Bones or wires — 3 sizes. 
Crochet Needle: 

For an emergency mend. 
Stiletto: 

For an emergency mend. 

HOUSEHOLD PAPER SUPPLIES 

Toilet paper should have a smooth surface and soft texture. 
It can be' purchased in either of two forms : the roll, or the package 
of sheets. The latter is more economical because one is less likely 
to use the sheets carelessly. It is decidedly economical to put the 
package into a patented holder, and this is recommended for places 
where the use of such paper is likely to be extravagant, or where it 
is a rather large item of expense. 

Tissue paper is especially useful for wrapping dainty or fragile 
materials. It comes about fifteen by twenty-two inches in size, and 
is sold by the quire or one hundred sheets. The odd pieces that come 
into the house as wrappings should be saved, for they make excellent 
window wipers. Tissue paper, too, is always valuable for packing, 
because it crushes and is so soft and light that it makes a good 
padding for fragile material. 

Paraffin paper is a light-weight tissue coated with paratfin, 
which is useful for wrapping foodstuffs. It may l)e purchased in 
packages, or by the roll of about twelve yards. If it is used very 
freely in the home, it will be found more economical to buy in 
pound or quire lots from a wholesale paper house. 

Paper towels are sometimes used in the kitchen, where a clean 
towel is needed many times a day. This paper should be rough, 
really a blotting paper, so that it will a1)sorh water readily. The 
towels are ])urchased in rolls of 7 yards each. 

Wrapping paper is a great convenience to have on hand. It can 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 145 

be purchased either in sheets by the quire, or on rolls as one sees it 
used in stores. For economy's sake, save clean wrapping papers 
tliat come into the house. 

WRITING DESK SUPPLIES 

Paper — business size. 500 sheets to 1 ream. 

Correspondence size, 24 sheets to 1 quire, 60-75 sheets to 1 package 
( Formerly sold as pound ) . 
Envelopes — business size, 400 envelopes to 1 ream of paper. 

Letter size 

1 pack to 1 quire paper 

2 packs to 1 package of paper. 
\Oo Post cards. 

Correspondence cards. 

Newspaper wrappers. 

. Letter size pad — cheap paper. 

W Small memo pad — for notes. A decided color like yellow is desirable as it 
„ catches the eye. 

9 ^ Postage stamps — of various denominations including special delivery. 
I. Blotters — large and small. 

Printed stickers — pad for Parcel Post. 

Laundry list pad — for those who send clothes out to a laundry. 

Carbon paper — to copy lists. 

Box of labels — not too small ; two sizes. 

Pad of printed household labels. 

Elastic bands. 

Glue. 

Paste. 

Key tags; trunk tags. 

Mending tape — for music or books. 

Sealing-wax. 

Ball of string. 

Ball of twine. 

Paper clips. 

Thumb-tacks. 

Shears. 

TABLE OF HOUSEHOLD WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

Linear Measure: 

12 inches ^1 foot 320 rods =1 mile 

3 feet =1 yard 17G0 yards =1 mile 

5V2 yards = 1 rod 5280 feet =1 mile 

Square Measure: 

144 square inches = 1 square foot IGO square rods = 1 acre 
9 square feet = 1 square yard 1 square mile = 1 section 

3014 sq. yards = 1 square rod 36 square miles = 1 township 

10 



146 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Avoirdupois Weight: 

27..'5 {i;rai!is =1 dram 
IG drams = 1 ounce 
]() ouiu'ca = 1 |H)iiii(l 

/.i(/iii:l Mcd.siirc: 

4 ^ills =:: 1 l.illt 

2 jiiiits = 1 (jnart 

Dri/ Measure • 

2 2)ints = 1 quart 
X (juartn = 1 peck 



100 pounds = i cwt. 
20110 pounds -- I ton 



4 quarts = 1 f^alloii 
311/, gals.= 1 1.1)1. 



4 pecks =: 1 Inishel 

10") dry quarts = 1 bid. (fruit, vege- 
tables, etc.) 




'M"^. "^ 




) 



;. — l.\(r_\-cla\' kitelicii iiiiaMiiis. ('ourli-sN' of P.urcau ui ."^tundiin 
Washington, D. C 

:\[ISCELLAXEOrS HOUSEHOLD MEASURES: 



4 saltspoonfuls 

3 teaspoonfuls 
IG tablespoon fuls 

2 oills 
2 cupfuls 

1 CU])ful 

32 taldespoonfuls 

2 cups l)utter 

1 lb. butter 

4 cups flour 

2 cups sugar 
^ cups coffee 
1 lb. coffee 



= 1 tea spoonful 

=:= 1 tablespoonful 

= 1 cupful 

= 1 cupful 

=: 1 pint 

=: 8 fluid ounces 

= 1 lb. butter 

= 1 lb. 

^ 40 butter balls 

=rl lb. 

= 1 lb. 

= 1 11). 

= 40 cu])s of liquid coffee 



HOUSEHOLD SUPPLIES 147 

1 7/8 cups rice = 1 lb. 

2 2/3 cups oatmeal = 1 lb. 
2 2/3 cups cornmeal= 1 lb. 

1 cup of liiiuid to 3 cups flour = a dough 

1 cup of liquid to 2 cups flour = a thick batter 

1 cup of liquid to 1 cup flour ^ a thin batter 

2 teaspoonfuls soda to 1 pint sour milk 

1 teaspoonful soda to 1 cup molasses 

% teaspoonful cream of tartar +11 „ . r i i , • j 

teaspoonful soda j = " teaspoonfuls baking powder 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. What practical suggestions for economizing soap can: be taught? 

2. What supplies should be bought in quantities? List. 

3. List) such supplies as may produce waste if bought in quantity. 

4. Compare prices paid by one housekeeper and by yourself and find reason 

for differences. 

5. Make a list that may be used as a purchasing list for cleaning supplies 

in the home. 
G. How may the quality of soap and blue be tested in the home? 

REFERENCES 

DoNHAjr, Agnes, Marketing anu Housework. Little, Brown & Co. 

Parloa, Maria, Home Economics. Century Co. 

SouDER, M. Attie, Notions. Ronald Press Co. 

U. S. Bureau of Standards, ^Materials for the Household. Circular No. 

70. 
U. S. Bureau of Standards, Safety for the Household. Circular No. 75. 
Vanderbilt, Sadie B., Physical and Chemical Tests for the Housewife 

Teachers College Bureau of Publications, Bulletin No. 19. 



CHAPTER VII 

HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 

In considering furnishings, it is lielplul to begin with the 
appearance of the empty room, for the room when furnished is like 
a picture, to which the walls, ceiling, and floor serve as a l)ackground. 
To obtain best results for the background, utility, beauty, and 
economy may be considered together. 

In planning their new home, the young couple usually have, 
as their ideal, the perfectly furnished house, complete in all its 
details. Their enthusiasm and desire to have it complete often 
act as a hindrance to the best results by causing them to buy hastily. 
With a limited sum to spend, their tendency will be to buy cheap 
furnishings which may represent bad lines, poor construction, and 
limited wearing power, for their one thought is to furnish the house. 

Instead, why not plan to buy absolute necessities first, made of 
the best material, constructed so that they are easily cleaned, built 
according to approved standards, and harmonizing with things that 
may be bought later ? As one lives in the house, sees wliat is wanted, 
and what money is available for purchasing, the many things needed 
and desired may be added. 

It seems a more reasonable standard, moreover, to use less ex- 
pensive equipment which may be had in adequate quantity, which is 
not too expensive to replace, and so is not a source of anxiety to 
the housewife. It is a poor rule for living to have material things 
for daily use that are so precious that the}^ are a matter of concern. 
The housewife who every evening rolls up her solid silver and takes 
it upstairs to put under her pillow is not the American standard for 
the twentieth century. 

Two hundred and fifty to three hundred dollars, if spent most 
carefully, may buy the bare necessities for a small plainly furnished 
home, of kitchen, dining-room, one bedroom, and bath. Even then, 
however, only necessities are possible. 

In this chapter there are presented in turn standards for various 
148 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 149 

items of household furnishings, beginning -with parts of the house 
itself which require care and renewal, such as walls and floors; 
then treating of floor coverings, draperies, furniture, linens, beds 
and bedding, silverware, china and glassware. 

WALLS 

Walls should be decorated in accordance with a few general 
rules : in the first i^lace, the smaller the room, the plainer the paper 
or covering material. jSText, for economy of light, the color should 
not be too dark (Fig. 94), because a dark color absorbs light, and one 
Imrns more light in order to have a brighter room. Yellows, reds, 
or pinks are best on dark or " cold " rooms, and gra3's, blues, greens, 
or lavenders on warm sunny rooms. The light shades and dainty 
patterns are good for rooms which are for individual use, such as 
bedrooms and dressing-rooms. The apjDarent form and size of 
rooms may be somewhat controlled by the choice of tints and 
colors of paper. A mirror may be himg to reflect the room, and so 
make it appear larger. It is often poor wall treatment that makes 
rooms seem like boxes divided from each other. 

Wallpaper. — Wallpaper should be like mats used in framing; 
it should serve as background rather than itself be the picture. 
Two-tone papers are lighter, and often reflect more light and life 
than a one-tone paper ; the two-tone effect may be brought about by 
a fine line of a lighter or contrasting color. Figures and stripes 
have much to do with the effect of a room. Stripes heighten ceil- 
ings, while figures, if large and geometrical, often make the walls 
appear close and hence lessen the size of the room. Special attention 
should be given to avoid " busy '' papers — those that keep the occu- 
pant busy working out squares and diamonds, or constantly counting 
some unit of design. 

Wallpapers are sold in double and single rolls, 48 and 24 feet 
long respectively. For a nine-foot wall, the double roll cuts to better 
advantage. A single roll cuts to better advantage on an eight-foot 
wall. If the wall height is a few inches over eight feet, the double 
roll is better economy. Papers with small figures, like any other 
material, cut with much greater economy because less is lost in 
matching the pattern. 



150 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Papers may be classified (Figs. !•"> and IKi) with a])))ri).\iinate 
prices, as follows : 



Cartriclf^o $ .15 per roll 

Oaliiu'al 30 per roll 

Tile 30 per roll 

Engraved 60 per roll 



Crepe $ .00 per roll 

Stipple 1.20 per roll 

Pressed 3.00 per roll 

Japanese 4.50 per roll 




Fig. 94. — A study showing the absorption of light by wallpaper. The same sized room, 
the same sized burner. 



To I'ut Wallpaper On. — liecipe for paste: 

2 lbs. flour. 

Cold water to make thick paste. 

y_^ lb. glue. 

Boilinor water to make like eream. 



Save some pieces of wa]lpa})er for future use iu patching. 

Hard Plaster or Cement Walls. — In rooms like the cellar, 
laundry, and kitchen, the walls are hest finished with a hard finish 
which can he produced by hard plaster or cement. In either case 
the wall may he tinted. If desired, it may he first marked off 
to imitate tile or bricks, and then finished in enamel ])aint. 



Cartridge 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 

Oatmeal 



151 




Fig. 95. — Samples of wallpaper. 
Crepe Stipple Pressed 




Fig. 96. — Samples of wallpaper. 



152 HOUSEWIFERY 

Paint and Calcimine Walls. — Ordinary plaster, such as is most 
often used, ean !)e finished w itli a liard surface hy first covering 
with one or two coatings of flat liousc paint, and then ai)plying one 
or two coats of enamel paint. Naturally the more coats the wall 
has, the more impervious to moisture it is and the more easily 
cleaned. 

Calcimine and whitewash finish are cheaper at first cost, Imt 
will need frequent renewal, as hoth ruh off easily, and are spotted 
with water. Good painted walls may he renewed hy washing 
with soap and Avater. 

Oilcloth or enamel cloth may he used for wall covering, and 
if well pasted it malves a water-proof finish and is an especially 
good way to freshen bathroom and kitchen walls. The tile effect 
possible in this enamel cloth makes an attractive wall covering. 

Tile and Tile-like Walls. — As explained above, a hard plaster 
can be marked off to imitate tile, and this, with enamel joaint, makes 
a good finish, which wears well. A metal, marked like tile, may be 
purchased in sheet form, and put over old plaster that is still firm, 
and then be enamel painted to give a good finish. This gives a 
most satisfactory wall finish, and is cheaper than porcelain tile. 
Tile wainscoting for five feet from the floor, with hard plaster 
enamelled for walls above for ceiling, while relatively expensive, 
makes an impervious wall finish most suitable for any room where 
moisture, odor, or grease may be present. This finish is most 
easily cleaned and is very durable. For greater ease in cleaning 
and for more sanitary walls, a curved baseboard of tiling is usually 
set in before the wainscot is set. Ornamented tile in the w^all finish 
rather fails in the purpose of the use of the tile, for it is hard to 
clean, and naturally less sanitary. 

FLOORS 

Kinds of Woods. — The following woods are given with their 
advantages and disadvantages for use as floors. Sometimes one 
prefers to choose a wood for its special qualities, but more often 
it is an economical advantage to use a wood that is relatively cheap 
in the local market, provided it meets the requirements for 
serviceableness. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 
Advantages Disadvan tages 



153 



Soft woods: 

White pine, Moderate price 

2nd quality Excellent floor for carpets 
Soft for tacks 
Shrinks little 
Lies permanently Hat 



Contains many knots 
Unattractive in appearance 
Unsviited for staining 
Too soft 
Knots sliow tlirough 



Spruce 



Hard woods: 

North Caro- 
lina pine 



Cheap 

Nearly free from knots 
White and agreeable in ap- 
pearance when fresh 
Soft for tacks 
Takes stain well 



Cheap as spruce 

Can be kept fairly polished 

witli w^ax 
Possible to select boards 

which do not show sapwood 



Boards tend to curl at edges, 

forming ridges 
Hastens wearing out of 

carpet 
Splinters 
Stain soon wears off 



Shows sapwood, which injures 

appearance 
Does not take carj^et tacks 



Georgia Next above North Carolina Grain monotonous if '"rift 

pine pine in liardness and cost boards" 

Takes good polish with wax If of slashed boards, apt to 

]Must use rift boards splinter 



IMaple Tough 

Whiteness desirable in par- 
quetry or oiled floors to 
make the pattern 



Boards acquire bluish tinge 

at ends 
Not often used for entire 

floor in home 
Boards must be cut narrow— 

214" or 2" 



Ash 



May be used for stairs that Unsuited for severe wear 

are to be covered, and for Annual rings do not adhere, 

doors and door frames and floor slivers in places 

May make a good floor that where wear comes 
is to be covered 



Birch Very hard 

Contains white sapwood en- 
closing pink heart 
VerY beautiful 



Limited market 



Oak 



Best for floors 

Varied and agreeable grain 

Does not sliA^er 



Liable to have knots which 

shrink and work loose 
Much waste in laying a floor 



154 



IIOTTSEWIFERY 



Fancy woods like cherry, mahogany, l)eccli, walnut, and redwood 
are ns(>(] only where one may ]iay large prices. Cherry often is used 
with (II' as mahogany, and usually takes the curved or bent lines of 
cliaii' l)acks and ai'ms. Mahogany is nut pliahle enough to form 
cui'ves. 

The mode of sawing and ihe part of the log used have much to 
do with the wearing qualities of wood, especially that used for 
lloors. The young, immature, or sapwood is usually separated from 
•rood lumber, as it is soft and tilled with much oru'anic matter 





Fig. 97. — Mode of sawing wood produces different type boards. A, cutting a log; B, 
showing layers. From Parloa's Home Economics, Century Co. 

that easily decays. The mature or heart wood is a darker, harder 
wood, with a very close grain ; its organic material is in such small 
amounts that the chance for decay is eliminated. 

This heart wood is sawed, and according to the method or the 
place from which the boards are sawed, we have first, rift or comb, 
second, slash or bastard wood. The log is cut according to the 
drawing (Fig. 97). In this way one or two broad boards are cut — 
A-fl .• then the log is cut and cut again, giving such boards as c and e, 
which will have the long annual layers or rings called rift ; d will 
give short annual, rings called slash. The wood is all cut across 
the grain as B shows. Slash wood slivers and so is bad for floors 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 155 

as it would soon splinter; if used, it should be covered. The 
quartered or conil.) grain wood gives a board that is smooth and wears 
well. Boards shrink in width and depth, but rarely in length. They 
should be thoroughly dried so as to be permanent in size and shape, 
and so prevent the chance of warping and forming cracks. 

- Floor boards are usually tongnie and grooved, or " matched "' 
lumber, so that they make tight joints, and if well seasoned, will be 
lasting. Maple is most used for floors that are to be washed much 
and have hard wear like school rooms. Yellow pine or resinous 
woods resist decay, because the rosin prevents moisture soaking 
into the wood. Such a wood makes a good kitchen or laundry 
floor, if wood is to be chosen. Wood is resilient, but unless oiled 
or covered will soak moisture and grease. For the work quarters 
of the house the standard should be to have the floor easily cleaned, 
easy of tread, and non-absorbent to moisture and grease. 

For the recreation and rest part of the house, wood flooring is 
most commonly used, and this plain laid wooden floor or the pine, 
maple, or oak may be stained or made into a jiattern, or a so-called 
parquetry floor. Any of the woods may be oiled, waxed, or varnished, 
with or without a stain. 

Waxed, Oiled, or Varnished Wood. — A wooden floor is the 
least expensive, hence most often found, in a house. A wooden 
floor may be oiled with warmed paraffine or linseed oil. The 
warmed oil will penetrate the wood and oil it so thoroughly that 
future grease spots are less likely to be made. 

Oil and color together may be applied by a color dye. Whether 
plain oil or oil stain is used the object is to get the oil into the wood. 
The first coat will probably all go in so that in a few hours there 
will be almost nothing to wipe off. Several coats of oil on the 
stained floor will give a good finish, each coat making the floor 
darker than the first. Oiled hard-wood floors give good service 
with the exception of the care needed to keep them clean. Use 
light oils, like lemon or paraffin, very thin, and rub off every bit 
that has not been absorbed before it has had time to gather dust. 

A varnished or shellaced floor is very glossy and unless the var- 
nish is of excellent quality (free from rosin) and put on in thin 
layers, the service life is very short. 

Waxed floors are most satisfactory for living rooms and general 
rest and recreation quarters so far as apjwarance is concerned, but 



156 



HOUSEWIFERY 



waxed lloors must have care. Water leaves a dark spot on a waxed 
floor, and oil causes it to grow sticky. The best care is to keep it 
free from dust and water, and to rub it with a heavy polisliing 
])rush, usually weighted. Such a l)rush may be l^ought for the pur- 
pose; or sometimes carpet is fastened to the feet and. the feet scuffled 
over the floor. The weight of tlie body increases the ease of pro- 
ducing the polisli. (See chapter on Cleaning and Renovation, 
page 292.) 

Whatever tlic flnor. 1)(^ sure to liinc it verv smooth so tliat it 




Fig. 98. — Types of flooring. 1, Interlocking rubber; 2, parquetry floor; 3, tile; 4, asbes- 
tolith; 5, colored tiles for borders; H, niarbleloid with sanitary base; 7, linoleums; S, terrazio; 
9, dreadnaught. 

will be easily cleaned. Curved basel)oards in the tile, or special 
mouldings set in as a joining between walls and floors (Fig. 98), 
make a room not only easily cleaned, but more likely to prohibit 
vermin. Types of floorings are shown in Fig. 98. 

Tile or Composition Floors. — Tile makes the most sanitary 
floor, but unfortunately not the easiest of tread, for it lacks resil- 
iency. A floor which is easy of tread is said to have resiliency, i.e., 
it gives the walker an impetus forward — as linoleum, cork carpet, 
interlocking rul)ber, or some of the composition floors which are 
spread witli a trowel or laid in sections. These floors often repre- 
sent tile, and may be bought in different colors and patterns. Curved 
baseboards are possible with all these floors. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 157 

Actual tile, if used, is most suitable for laundry, kitchen, and 
bathroom floors. Small many-sided tile usually gives the best ser- 
vice as there are more edges for contact with the adjoining tile and 
hence greater adliesion. Eound and square tile are more likely to 
loosen, and the tile with a large surface is less likely to withstand 
heavy wear, as, for example, in delivery entries where trucking 
and delivery of lieavy barrels and boxes are factors. 

Hea^•y rough tiles like vitrified bricks are often well chosen for 
porch floors and vestibules. They present a sturdy " outdoor ". 
atmosphere and their rough finish adds to their attractiveness. 

Linoleum. — Linoleum is a material of cork composition which 
may be jiurchased at a great range of prices and in a correspondingly 
great variety of quality. A thin linoleum called oilcloth is the 
cheapest quality. The pattern is put on like a stencil, stamped on 
the surface, and naturally the wear soon causes the pattern to rub 
off, leaving only the cloth foundation. Varnish will help keep this 
cloth in good condition, but only in a small degree. Such linoleum 
would need at least three coats of varnish in a year. 

The linoleum that has the pattern and color all through its 
depth is built up in blocks and pressed together. ISTaturally the 
color lasts as long as the linoleum lasts. These come in medium 
standard grades, and also in heavier grades known as " cork carpet " 
which is cork color, and " battleship linoleum " which is usually a 
plain dark brown. These two heavier grades cost more than stand- 
ard weight linoleum, and this cost may be unnecessary for the 
lighter service of the small house; they are used in institutions 
where the wear is hea^'3^ 

The laying of a linoleum is almost more important than the 
difference in quality of the middle grades (Fig. 99). It should 
be most carefully measured and cut to fit the floor. Two weekg lying 
on the floor without tacking will give it time to stretch, and then 
it may be refitted and fastened down. The strips of linoleum are 
sealed together with a sealing cement, and the edges are sealed to 
the baseboard. Usually this is all that is done ; but the housewife 
would find that the small extra cost, 15 to 25 cents per square foot, 
of having the whole piece of linoleum entirely sealed to the floor, 
would mean securing an almost permanent floor. The object of 
sealing is that no water can possibly get to the underside of the 
linoleum to water-soak it, causing it to swell and buckle. Linoleum, 
after it is laid, may be waxed like a wooden floor, and then the 



158 



HOUSEWIFERY 



pores will bo closed, making- it resist water, ^redium-pricod lino- 
leum, waxed and sealed to tlie (loor, will ,<>rive excellent service and 
has resiliency to give comfort to the worker. It makes the most 
satisfactory kitchen lloor. 

Rugs and Carpets. — These (lillVr I'l'din each olhcr only in size, 
ht'caiise the niaici'ial is the same. The study of sanitation and 
elliciciicy has made a car])ct unusual in the average home, since rugs 
are much more easily cleaned and handled. Carpets have been 
vu\ np into small s(piares called druggets, or have been stripped 



y/ooz? 




Fig. 99. — Proper wall attachment for linoleum floor covering. 



into rugs in about the reverse proportion that housekeepers used to 
buy strips of carpeting and sew them together into carpets. Some 
ingrain and l)russels carpets have ln'cn stripped, fringed, and re- 
woven like a rag rug, except that the nap in weaving has. been 
forced up. All this has been by way of getting rugs into the house to 
replace carpets. 

The essential economic requii-ements of a floor covering are 
that it be duraljle, easily cleaned, and substantial enough to lie 
flat on the floor. The artistic requirements are good color and 
pattern and that the rug harmonize with the room. The rug should 
be the foundation of the room, and the color and pattern may be 
said to contribute to a hannonious whole when neither are so pro- 
nounced as to be the all-controlling factor in the design of the 
room. Types of rugs are shown on. pages 159-165. 

As to the size of a single rug for a room, a good general rule 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHIxNGS 



159 




160 HOUSEWIFERY 

to use for measuring is that the rug come up well to the fireplace, 
if there is one, and that the margin on opposite sides of the room be 
('(|ual. A rug 9 x 12 feet looks best with a floor margin 12 to IT) 
inclu's, and a larger rug better with an 18-inch margin. If several 
small rugs arc to be used, in various sizes, and arranged about the 
room to cover the main unit spaces, iho lines of the rugs will 
usually best follow the lines of the room. 



/ 



aor// WEAVE OF /mm// c/i/?P£r 



BEfU53ELS CAffPET ^£/ll/£ 
W/LTOA/ /S /i COT BffUSSELS 



AXfi/NSTEEt CmPET W£/i/£ 

Pio. 101. — Diagram showing weaves of the different types of carpeting. 1, Cloth weave 
of Ingrain carpet; 2, Brussels carpet (Wilton is a cut Brussels); 3, Axminster carpet weave. 

Eugs are classified according to the weave, as ingrain, j^ile, and 
tufted. 

Ingrain (Fig. 101 (1)) is woven clotli fashion, Avith a warp 
and woof, and, like cloth, is reversible lioth as to finish and colors: 
that is, it may be used either side up. 

Pile carpeting includes Brussels and Wiltons. 

Brussels (Fig. 101 (2) ) has only one usalde side. It has a pile 
like velvet, but the pile is uncut. Its weave is like AYilton; that is, 
it consists of a locked stitch in which one thread is woven over 
the next, thereby locking and holding better. The woolen thread 
which constitutes the pile is looped in the warp, and held in loops 
during the weaving by stretched wires. When the fabric is al)out 
to 'be finished, the wires are drawn out, and the loops thus left 
constitute the pile. Brussels is only a middle grade carpet, both 
as to looks and to wear. But "^ body brussels ^' is better than 
" tapestry brussels," as the latter has much sizing and would have 
to be drv-cleaned rather than steam-cleaned. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 161 

Wilton is a heavy, more velvety, and more durable carpet or rug 
than Brussels. It is made with a pile like Brussels, but the pile 
is cut when it is finished and steamed, whereupon it appears like 
velvet. Wilton is especially good for living rooms; lay it with the 
pile against the light as with Oriental rugs. French Wiltons have 
cotton, backs, and are usually woven in Oriental colors and patterns. 
Royal Wilton is a trade name for a cheaper quality. Wilton Velvet 
is a cheaper-grade rug, which is better in figures than in plain 
colors. Hartford Saxony is a Wilton with a longer nap, but not so 
serviceable, because the nap may be pulled out. Saxony is best in 
Chinese patterns; there is only one grade. Because Wiltons are so 
closely woven, they hold dust on their surface. For limited incomes 
the French Wilton is the best, as it gives the longest and mo?t 
satisfactory service. 

Tufted. — The third kind of carpeting is the tufted kind. It is 
of the nature of the old-fashioned hooked rugs, where the filling is 
woven in in tufts. This group includes Axminster, Chenille, 
Oriental rugs, and carjoets. 

Axminster (Fig. 101 (3)) is cheaper than a Wilton and less 
serviceable, as the tufts easily loosen. Much lint comes from the 
rug. Cotton Axminster is not reversible. 

Chenille is of the tufted type, and is like Axminster in appear- 
ance and like Wilton in weave. It is the most expensive of domestic 
or European carpeting. It is more like an Oriental rug but not so 
adapted to hard wear, although it is often used to save costly 
Orientals. The cost of Chenille is determined by the depth of the 
pile and richness of color. Cotton Chenilles are reversible and wash- 
able, and are used for bathrooms. 

Oriental rugs are hand-tufted, made by stretching the warp 
thread in a frame, and then looping in short or long lengths of wool 
filling (Fig. 102). Before finishing, the rugs are sheared to make 
the filling even. For tufted rugs, the most economical from the 
cleaning point of view are those that are sheared so the threads are 
not too long (Figs. 103, 104). 

Hemp and Grass Rugs. — Various kinds of hemp and grass 
rugs, woven or braided, arc much used for living rooms, sun parlors, 
and on porches. Because they are light, cool looking, and easily 
lifted to be cleaned, they are much used for summer homes, and 
where the income demands something inexpensive. 
11 



162 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Rag Rugs. — Two other types of rugs are made by braiding 

strips of cloth and sewing the braided strips together, or by weaving 
strips of cloth as a woof in the warp tliroad Denims and cretonnes 
are most effoctive for tliis woi'k. lather of these materials, or strips 
of iicking or silk, may 1)0 Jiooked into hiirhip or crocheted into rugs. 
A B . c 




Fig. 
-knots- 



102. — Diagram of Oriental rug weave. A, Persian — knots — right twist; B, Persian 
-left twist; C, Turkish — knots — center twist. Courtesy of Comttry Life in America. 



Other rug materials (Fig. 105), sueli as flax, jute, and wieking, 
are also used to produce variety and various degrees of cheaper rugs. 

Comparative values of rugs and carpets are shown l:)y the 
following tahh', thougli of course prices may vary greatly. 



Kind 



Flax, grass 

Rag, woven 

Rag, braided, oval . 

Ingrain, plain 

figured 

Body Brussels 

Wilton 

Hartford Saxony . . . 

Axminster 

Chenille, linen back 
wool back 



Carpet 



Price 



Rug 



Width 



yd. 

yd. 



1 yd. 

1 yd. 
1 yd. 
1 yd. 
1 yd. 
1 yd. 



SI. 4.') 

1.60 

3.00 

4.00 

3-5.00 

6-8.00 

2-4.00 

8.95 

9.25 



3x6 ft. 
3x6 ft. 

4x7 ft. 



3x5i<ft. 
3x5 M ft. 
3x5 M it. 



3x5 M ft- 



Price 



$1.56 
.50-9.00 



20.00 

20.00 

7.50 

44.00 



Note — Oriental not usually made in standard sizes; prices range from 
$25 for a very small one to $3,000 and $4,000 for larger ones. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



jlimHmi 



I 
i 






m 






*, i ♦< i,^ 



m 



wm. 



I 

i 



m 



m 



Fig. I03.-Bokhara camel bag half. Size 4' X 2'10'. 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Ptopeity of Mr. A. U. Dilley 



Fig. 104. — Hamadan rug. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



165 



DRAPERIES AND CURTAINS 
Draperies introduce warmth, cheer, and a contrasting touch of 
color into a room, and are often used to shield or close a room, 
door, or window. The heavy velours, plushes, velvets, and brocades 
furnish soft folds which give artistic effects of light and shadow; 
l)ut they are high priced, hard to keep free from dust, and expensive 



Klearflax. 



Coco matting. 




Fig. 105.— Cloth w. 



■.y rugs, inexpen.-M 



to clean. They need to be lined with a soft fabric of harmonizing 
color, as their backs are usually cotton and not attractive. The 
two thicknesses of material, however, which have different possi- 
bilities of cleaning, add to the cost of renewal and often keep the 
curtains from being as clean as they should. 

The universal attention to economy and sanitation has resulted 
in a supply of suitable and artistic draperies which are washable. 



IGG 



HOUSEWIFERY 




HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



167 



non-fading, and of such a nature as to resist dust. Cretonnes 
(Fig. 106), denims, sunfast (Fig. 107), and various silk and wool 
fabrics meet tliis requirement. Often a plain or solid color as a 
lining introduces a richness of tone, provided it harmonizes with 
the drapery material, and furnishes a lining which increases the 
weight and excludes the light. 





Fig. 107. — Sunfast fabrics — serviceable because of fast colors. 



If strict economy must be practised, select a pattern that repeats 
so often as to prevent much waste in cutting lengths and matching 
patterns. Ups and downs, and rights and lefts, in patterns cut to 
poor advantage, as do large patterns which spread over large space 
before repeating. Usually plain hangings are best (Fig. 108), but 
if rugs and paper are plain, a figured hanging introduces light and 
contrast. 

Dining-room and bedroom draperies should be washable and 
light weight so as to be easily shaken and aired. This is necessary 



168 



HOUSEWIFERY 

A 





Fig. 108. — Cotton draperies and upholsteries. A, Burlap; B, Monk's cloth. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



169 



for rooms that play such a direct part in the life of the individual. 
The range of material used is very extensive, including, in the 
order of cost, the following: 

Drapery Materials Per yard 

Cotton fabrics, like crash ! . .$ .35 

Sunfast 75 to $1.00 

Cretonnes .25 to 1.50 

Linen 40 to .65 

Poplins, monks' cloth 50 to 1.50 

Denims 45 to .75 

Velours 3.00 to 6.00 

Velvets and plushes 3.00 to 5.00 

Curtains. — Curtains have gone through the same changes as 
the hea\'y draperies. They are shorter, lighter in weight and pattern, 
and, if the housekeeper desires, she can find filmy pretty patterns 
which will shield the room from the passerby, but will not " bar " 
the window and shut out the light, sun, and air. Most of these 
materials (Fig. 109) are easily renewed by washing in the home, 
and the cost of renewal either in time or money is not so great but 
that the curtains may be fresh and crisp. The housekeeper will often 
find suitable for curtain use dress materials like voiles, crepe, or 
dotted Swiss that are of finer weave and prove much cheaper than 
the regular curtain materials which are sold at the drapery counter. 
About one-half inch to one inch should be allowed on each yard 
of washable material for shrinkage. Braid or gimp shrinks even 
more, so should be put on full enough to allow for this. If one has 
good facilities for laundering the material, it would be most practical 
to shrink the whole piece before cutting into curtain lengths. Be- 
sides allowing for shrinkage, if the material has an up and down or 
a large pattern, enough must be purchased to allow for matching 
designs. 

The following relative prices may be of service in considering the 
cost of draping the windows : 



Curtain Materials 


Width 


Price per yard 


Cheese cloth 


36 in. 
27-32 in. 
36-45 in. 
45-54 in. 


$0.10 to $0.20 


Dimities and lawns 

Scrim, voile, marquisette, swiss . . . 
Organdy, Brussels net, filet 


.20 to .75 
.20 to .55 
.45 to 1.00 



170 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 109. — Washable curtain materials. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 171 

Hangers for Draperies and Curtains. — Wooden poles, brass 
rods, and wooden cornices support the curtains and draperies. 
Wooden poles are cut to fit, but for small windows the brass rods 
may be the adjustable extension type. This is not good if the length 
of the rod is over three feet as the weight of material will cause 
a long rod to sag. In this case have a solid metal rod cut the proper 
length; this may be either a brass rod, or a less expensive metal rod 
with a brass covering. 

Wooden rods, 12 cents per foot ; ends, 30 cents per pair. 

Brass rods, 28 cents-75 cents per foot ; ends, 50 cents per pair. 

Goose neck rods, 40 cents per pair, single; 60 cents per pair, 
double. 

Wooden rings, 50 cents j^er dozen. 

For portieres and curtains that are to be drawn often, as in 
closing an archway or in drawing heavier curtains in the place of 
using window shades, one will find that a double cord and pulley 
fixture makes the drawing of the curtain most easy. Its cost for 
a five-foot window is about $3.25. 

Window Shades. — '"While the window shades are bought solely 
for protection from the outside, and to shade the inside from light, 
it will be a great saving to j^ay more at the beginning for a good 
linen one rather than buy a cheap starched cotton one. A '^ Hol- 
land " shade means a linen shade which can be sjjonged ofi with 
soapy water and wiped dry. The cheaper filled or starched shades 
Avill crack, and, if sponged, must be handled most carefully. There 
are also shades made in two colors, dark on one side and light on the 
other. The average width of shades is thirty-eight inches, and the 
cost is by the yard ; it is also governed by the color. Comjiarative 
prices of a shade thirt.y-eight inches wide by two and a quarter 
yards long in various materials are as follows : linen (green) , $2.75 ; 
Holland (green), $3.00; two-color shades, $2.25. 

Window Screens for Flies. — Copper screen is best, but very 
expensive; galvanized is next best, ungalvanized will rust out very 
quickly. Cotton netting of smallest mesh — 1-4 threads to the inch — ■ 
will serve well, but lasts only one season ; use black netting. Screen 
the fireplace also. 

Window Ventilators. — These help so much in keeping a room 
in good condition that every housekeeper should find out which one 
suits her needs best. A board about four inches wide and as long 
as the window, is possible for everyone. It i-s set in the 



172 HOUSEWIFERY 

window frame, and the lower sash is brought down to meet it, thus 
causing a disphicement of the sashes in the middle so that fresh 
air creeps in so gradually as to cause no one annoyance from drafts. 
Various patented ventilators are sold, and many have special 
advantages. One is made of cloth put on an extension frame like 
a fly screen, which filters the air ; another is of glass, which may be 
set at two different angles from the window, and has the advantage 
of not shutting off the view. Other metal ones have slides, or flue- 
like pipes, and some have only holes l)y means of which air can 
work its way between two sets of uprights. With the ventihitor prob- 
lem should be considered tlie electric fan. (See .Miscellaneous 
Equipment, page 128.) 

FURNITURE 

Furniture should be chosen from a combined point of view. 
Its suitableness as to size and shape ; as to weight, whether light or 
heavy; and as to appearance, comfort, and use; the style, whether 
upholstered, wood, rattan, or willow, and the service that each style 
may have to give ; the cost, whether the quality and serviceableness 
warrant the price; and the possibility of renovation — all these 
considerations must be taken into account. 

Light Furniture. — With the bungalow and the summer house 
has come a light weight and light appearing furniture which is com- 
paratively new and may be passing in style. It is made of papier- 
mache, twisted in cords and woven on frames ; of grass fibre, twisted 
or braided and woven on frames ; or of cretonnes braided and woven 
on frames. 

Then there are more substantial types; the willow, which is 
made of the young sprouts woven on wooden frames, and the reed 
or rattan which is a plant sent from Ohina which is barked here 
in America. The durability of all this furniture depends upon the 
strength of the frame and the evenness of the weave of the material. 

The variety of color is produced ])y stains, and the finish by 
shellac, paint or enamel. Both paint and enamel will shell off in 
spots with constant use, so that stain-wears better. 

Wooden Furniture. — Various t^-jx^s of wooden furniture, at 
great differences of cost, may be purchased. This is due to the 
quality of the workmanship, and also to the quality of the wood, 
that is, whether woods of fine quality are used, or whether pine is 
stained to look like oak, and birch or cherry to look like mahogany. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 173 

Hand work, including hand carving, of course costs more than 
machine work, while real antiques are, of course, often priced very 
high. The present style is to take old furniture, even fine antiques, 
and paint them, but mahogany will not be harmed by this as many 
of the real antiques have been through the stage of the painted style. 

Some housewives are informed regarding these differences in style 
and differences of value, and the woman who is informed is well 
repaid. If one is not trained, one can ])ut depend upon a reliable 
store or dealer to get the best for the money to be spent ; style con- 
trols what she will find at certain times, but let her controlling 
thought be that in selection, plain lines are the most satisfactory 
and durable, are always acceptable, and, what is important week in 
and week out, are the most easily cleaned. 

The most noticeable difference in wooden furniture is that some 
is without upholstering, some is partially upholstered, while the 
heavy living-room and library furniture is often so entirely uphol- 
stered that no wood shows. In this kind of furniture the feet and 
tips of the axms are of good wood, while the frame upon which the 
chair is built is simply strong oak or pine. 

Springs are well set in all good upholstered furniture, and be- 
sides the quality of steel in the spring, one must consider whether 
there is a sufficient number. For example, three rows of springs in 
a couch length will give more service than two. 

Furniture Coverings.— In choosing the covering, cost, color, 
and pattern are to be considered, but serviceableness should be in- 
cluded with the other requirements. 

Tapestries are usually combined fabrics — cotton and silk, or 
wool and silk. The real tapestry is all wool except the high lights 
of the picture, and they are in silk. It is soft in color, rich in tone, 
but because it is such a large part wool, it needs care to keep it 
clean and free from moths. 

Leather. — Real leather is usually either cowhide or sheep skin. 
The cowhide is very expensive, but very serviceable, and its service 
is increased if one will give it frequent rubbings with oil, like linseed, 
vaseline, or lemon oil. Use a light-colored thin oil, as every dressing 
will do a bit toward darkening the leather. Sheep skin vnW peel 
or flake easily ; it is a thinner skin than cowhide. Leather is very 
expensive ; the price is by the whole skin, $8 to $30. 

Enamel Cloth. — Enamel cloth is only an imitation leather, and, 



174 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 110. — Cotton fabrics for draperies and upholstery. A, denim; B, cotton repp; 
C, poplin; D, cotton repp. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 
A B 



175 





Fig. 1 1 1 . — Fabrics used for upholstery and draperies. A , brocade ; B, velours. 

like patent leather, varies in quality. Tlie soft enamel cloth will 

probably do less cracking as it will be more pliable to wear and tear. 

Mohairs give excellent service and are especially pleasing in the 

patterns of to-day. The black hair as the warp, and the soft browns 



176 



HOUSEWIFERY 



or greens as the woof, produce a soft pretty color effect and warmth 
that the old-fasliioned mohair so sadly lacked. 

Bepp is a cotton or a wool material woven like j)ique (Fig. 110) 
with deep ridges. It is serviceable, more expensive than denim, 
and because of its weave much richer in appearance. 

Denims are inexpensive cotton fabrics, serviceable, easily dusted, 
])ut few are proof against fading. 

Cretonnes are most attractive in their patterns and colorings, 
easily cleaned, not expensive for renewal, and most suitable for light 
decorations. 

All kinds of upholstery material may be used for cushions 
(Fig. Ill), and these may be filled with such material as excelsior, 
goat's hair, silk floss, cotton, or curled hair. The curled hair no 
longer good enough for bed mattresses will make excellent stuffing 
for upholstery. (See also Mattresses, page 189.) 

LINEN 

The qualities that make linen so very desirable for many uses are 
its smooth texture, ability to absorb and give up moisture rapidly, 
freshness and brilliancy of appearance, ease with which it gives up 
its soil, and its dural)ility. 

Tests for Purity of Linen. — There are so many clever adultera- 
tions of linen that it takes an expert to prove that it is not linen, 
l)ut there are, however, some simple tests for linen which anyone 
may make: 





Method 


Results 


Test 


Linen 


Cotton 


Water 

Burning 

Tearing 

Glycerine 


Apply a drop to 
material. 

Apply lighted 
match to ends 
of threads. 

Tear across the 
material. 

Apply a drop to 
material. 


Water spreads 
and evapo- 
rates quickly. 

Burned ends 
sharp, smooth 
and even. 

Hard to tear, 
sharp, shrill 
sound, edge 
smooth. 

Forms transpa- 
rent spot. 


Water acts more 
slowly. 

Burned ends like 
a paintbrush. 

Easy to tear, 
duU, muffled 
sound, edge 
curled. 

Is not absorbed 
but rolls up 
like mercury. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 177 

Essentials of Table Linen. — The qualities desired in table 
linen are freshness of appearance, weight of fabric sufficient so that 
it will lie flat on the table, but a quality at the same time soft and 
yielding in the folds. To give these qualities the linen must be pure. 

In weaving linen the use of a single thread makes a single 
damask ; two threads, a double damask. The double damask weave 
is the more desiral:)le, and the pattern stands out distinctly, due to 
the play of light and shade on the threads. There is a distinct 
fashion in the patterns of table linen, due directly to the demands 
of the public for alternating styles ; there are patterns permanently 
acceptable, however. Select a small " all-over " pattern rather than 
a large pattern, with very wide satin stripes, as the long overshot 
threads which make the large pattern are likely to be pulled or 
broken in ironing. Beware of over-sizing or starched linen as 
this is put on to cover up the poor quality of the linen, and disap- 
pears in the wash, leaving a flimsy fabric with no wearing qualities. 
" Union " means half linen and half cotton. It has some of the 
qualities of linen, but turns gray like cotton. 

The firmness of the weave depends upon the number of threads 
per square inch, which are easily counted with a magnifying glass 
or weaver's glass. Medium quality linen has 180 warp threads and 
very fine quality 220 warp threads per square inch. The average 
weight is four and a half ounces per square yard. Weight and 
firmness are controlling characteristics — not stiffness. A good 
quality of single damask is better than a poor quality of double 
damask. 

Linen may be purchased in the natural color (unbleached), silver 
bleached (quarter, half, and three-quarters bleached) and pure 
white. The unbleached, of course, has the greatest wearing quali- 
ties. The method of bleaching modifies the wearing qualities of the 
linen to a large degree, the sun and grass bleaching being far less 
injurious to the fibre than the more modern and rapid chemical 
bleach. 

The linen varies according to its national origin (Fig. 112), 
Scotch being the cheapest, then Irish, and then French. Scotch 
linen is not the highest grade, but it gives long wear at a low 
cost, because it is mostly sun and grass bleached. Irish linen comes 
in both poorer and higher grades. It is noted for its snowy white- 
ness, evenness of texture, and beautiful designs; the snowdrop and 
12 



178 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 112.— Table linens. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 179 

shamrock are typical Irish patterns. French linen is made only in 
the higher grades, and is very expensive, its cost being almost three 
times that of Scotch. It excels in design and wonderful finish. 
Belgian linen is highly recommended for its good quality and mod- 
erate cost. There is no domestic damask, as America has not de- 
veloped the linen industry. 
Sizes of Table Linen. 

Sizes of tahlecloths unhcmmed : 

Width in yards : Length in yards : 
1 1 to 1% 

2- 2 to 4 

21/4 21/4 to 31/2 

2y. 2% to 8 

3 3 to 6 

ZV> 3% to 6 1/2 

L 2, 4, f) yard squares for cutting round. 

Hemmed or scalloped tahlecloths: 
36 in.x36 in. (tea cloth) 
54 in. X 54 in. 
72 in. X 72 in. 
80 in. x80 in. 
90 in. x90 in. 

Sizes of napkins unhemmed: 

Breakfast 19 in. to 22 in. 

Tea 16 in. to 18 in. 

Dinner 24 in. to 32 in. 

Size of doilies: 

12 in., 14 in., 16 in., 20 in., 24 in. 

The prices of table linen are so variable that it is not possibh? 
to quote prices with any degree of accuracy. Tablecloths by the 
yard are the cheapest ; a cloth by the yard woven with a border on 
all sides will cost 50-75 cents more than the same sized cloth without 
the border. Sound cloths come in 1, 2, 4, and 5 yd. squares for 
cutting, $3 extra charge is made to hem these cloths. 

Napkins. — Allow one dozen to each clpth. If the housekeeper 
is to have only one handsome set it is wise to allow two dozen 
napkins to each cloth; the napkins receive harder wear than the 
cloth. 

Towels. — The greatest essential of a towel is that it should 
be soft, and should absorb moisture rapidly. An all-linen towel best 
meets these requirements. Huckaback towels (Fig. 113) are most 



180 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 113. — Different weaves of huckaback. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



181 




Fig. 114. — Showing different weaves of towelling. Crash towelling used mostly in the 

kitchen. 



used, because their roughness and looseness of weave makes a good 
surface for absorption. Damask towels are very beautiful, but are 
not so efficient, as they do not absorb moisture readily. 

Cotton or union towels (linen and cotton) are much cheaper, 



182 



HOUSEWIFERY 







Fig. 115. — Samples of checked towelling, often called glass towelling. 



bat have two disadvantages: they are less absorbing, and because of 
the cotton they gray and darken with w^ar, making them look 
constantly dirty. Wash cloths and bath towels often illnstrate this. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 183 

Towel Sizes. — The usual sizes for towels are 14 x 20 and 24 x 45 
inches; prices per dozen vary according- to the material about as 
follows: Cotton, $1.75 to $2.75; huck, $5.00 to $15.00; union, 
$3.00 to $4.50 ; damask, $1G.00 up. 



Fig. 116. — .< i m n -:-i i o, dish towels. 



Kitchen toirels are of three types: glass towelling (Fig, 115), 
for glass and china; crash towelling (Fig. 114), to be used for heavy 
cooking utensils; and crash towelling, for hand towels. For glass 
towelling one may best choose a linen fabric, because linen has the 



184 HOUSEWIFERY 

iK'st power of abi^orptioii, and because it has no lint. I'suall}- it is 
checked (Fig. 1 1-")) ; ii' so, the towelling with red lines or checks 
will keep the color better than that with Mue. Crash towelling is a 
cheaper, sturdier quality of linen, and is hcttcr suited to the rough 
work such as drying cooking utensils and knives. The towel with 
the word " dish towel " or " glass towel " woven into it is one oi" the 
most expensive, and no better than the plain towels. Hand towels 
should be of softer weave, and may be bought with a pattern that 
makes them distinct from other towels in the kitchen. Kitchen 
towelling varies in width from sevent-een to twenty-one inches. The 
prices range from twelve to eighteen cents for cotton to eighteen to 
thirty cents for linen, A cheaper linen towel is preferable to a 
finer cotton one. 

Dish cloths and wash cloths should be chosen with a soft, 
spongy Aveave, rather rough, but always so spongy as either to hold 
water or to be easily wrung dry (Fig. 116). 

Suggestions to Guide in Buying Linen. — An understanding 
of the qualities to look for in linen is the first essential of a suc- 
cessful buyer. Always buy linen of a reliable firm and of a salesman 
who knows quality. For economy, buy when some reliable house has 
a '' sale " of good linen. These sales are business propositions to 
arouse trade, and are often planned to clear the shelves of patterns 
that are not in style at the time. Style stimulates trade. At these 
times the housekeeper may restock her shelves and have reserve linen 
on hand. Too much ahead is as poor planning as none, because 
linen will turn yellow and crack on the folds if kept too long. To 
prevent cracking, it would be wise occasionally to change the folding. 

Suggested Quantities of Household Linen to Buy. — 
4 sheets per bed or if beds are all of same size, 3 sheets per bed. 
3 pillow cases per pillow. 
2 blankets per bed. 

2 spreads per bed. 

6 face towels per person. 

3 bath towels per person. 

2 bath mats for bathroom. 

1 large dinner table cloth. 

3 changes of napkins (at least) per week. 

3 everyday table cloths, if luncheon sets are used. 
6 everyday table cloths if nothing else is used. 
glass towels per week. 

6 crash towels per week. 

2 oven cloths per week. 

7 hand towels per week. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 185 

Marking Linen. — Methods of marking are of two general 
kinds: Ink marking, such as pen and ink, stencil, and machine 
marking (like a typewriter) ; and thread marking, such as bonnay 
embroidery (chain stitch done by a machine), woven tapes, and 
hand embroidery (Fig. 117). Eapidity and cheapness characterize 
the ink method. Serviceableness, ease of application, and good 
style describe the thread method. For linen that is to be ironed 
by machinery, the bonnay and embroidered letter will be the least 




MCH 



Fig. 117. — Different ways of marking personal and household linen. 

lasting. Xo matter how it is done, choose a regular place for the 
name to be put on each individual kind of linen article, as it does 
much to help in sorting laundered clothes. The accepted color for 
embroideries is usually white and separate initials are not only 
more legible, but considered better style than monograms. 

The place for the mark varies with style, but the standard place 
is here given: 

Tahledoths should show the marking when the cloth is on the 
table. A cloth hangs from the table Yi or % yard. The monogram 



186 HOUSEWIFERY 

or initial should be on the top of the table about six inches from 
the edge, at the right of the liost or hostess, unless there is a special 
medallion woven for a mark. 

Napkins are marked in the corner, in the middle of the square 
])roduced by the final fold. They may be mark(>d in the' center, in 
which case the napkin must be luldcd in iliinls when ironed. 

tSliceis, pillow-cases and tourls are marked in the middle of the 
hemmed end, six inches from the end, so as to he read from the hem. 

IfandkercJiicfs. — Tf marked with embroidered letter, in the cor- 
ner ; if with ])en and ink, in the cent(>r. 

BEDS AND BEDDING 

Bedding is a problem to which one should give consideral)le 
thought, because the materials are purchased for lasting service, and 
hecause of the large first cost the possiljility of renovation should 
be we'll considej'cil. 

The Bedstead. — Bedsteads, unless of special dimensions, are 
usually six feet three inches in length and four feet six inches in 
width for full size ; four feet wide, for three-quarter heds ; three 
feet and three i'cet six inches, for single beds ; and three feet and 
tvro feet six inches wide for couch beds; while cribs are about two 
feet six inches wide by four feet six inches in length. 

The least expensive bed is a couch or cot which serves two pur- 
poses, a day couch and a night bed. Special care must be given to 
the selection of strong springs on such a bed, as the day couch has 
often the strain of sitting on the springs. Larger beds are bought 
to be used as night beds and are less likely to have the strain of 
being sat upon. Strain is the only word to use as the hardest use 
that a spring has is that of being stretched on the sides by a person 
sitting on the bed. 

Metal beds are the easiest to keep clean and are to be recom- 
mended rather than wooden bedsteads or such special types as 
rattan. The best quality iron bed finished in white enamel makes a 
serviceal)le, attractive bed at less cost than a brass bed, and one 
that is the easiest to care for. Iron may also be enamelled to repre- 
sent wood, making a bed less like a cottage or institution bed and 
one that harmonizes with mahogany and walnut furniture. Brass 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



187 



beds are exjDensive, as the better quality requires a good metal foun- 
dation and a. heavy brass finish; and they require care to keep 
attractive in appearance. A good metal bed should have welded cor- 
ners, no sign of a tube being seamed, and firm joints. 

Springs. — Xo matter what the size, the springs may be classed 
under four types — woven wire, most common in cots and cheaper 
beds (Fig. 118, a and h) ; national springs (Fig. 119) ; and spiral, 




Fig. 118. — .4, woven wire spring which cannot be renewed when stretched; B, woven wire 
spring with coil springs at each end. 1 hese end springs may be renewed. 



which may or may not be boxed springs. A statement of the ad- 
vantages and disadvantages of each kind may help the housekeeper 
to choose. 

The weight of the body causes all springs to stretch and finally 
to sag. The cheapest woven-ivire spring has little possibility of being 
tightened. To overcome this, the better makes are reinforced by 
weaving groups of wire at regular intervals to strengthen the struct- 
ure so that it will resist stretching. The edges, too, are made of a 



188 



HOUSEWIFERY 



roll of woven wire, or even a steel rod may be run lengthwise of the 
edge to prevent stretching. 

The nalional springs, being built up of sections of wire with 
strong springs at the end of each line of wire to give tension, may be 
renewed by replacing sections. For a medium priced spring, the 
national will give excellent service. 

The spiral spring is a set of vertical wire sjDirals, similar to 
those used in upholstered furniture, the individual springs being 




Fig. 119. — A national spring which may be repaired by replacing the sprinjis at earh enil 
or by putting in new links. 



set upon a metal or wood base. If individual spii-als are broken, 
they can be replaced. It is a eomfortal)le s])ring, l»ut more difficult 
to clean than the woven and national tyi)ps. 

The ho.r spring is the most expensive, and is made up of spiral 
springs with a padding like a thin mattress laid on the spirals 
and the whole enclosed in a ticking cover. This spring makes a 
warmer bed, and is the most comfortable spring; but because of 
being enclosed in ticking, it is the most difficult to keep clean. The 
relative cost is tabulated. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



189 



BEDS 



Kinds 



Crib 

Couch bed 

Iron or Brass 

Wood 

Iron or Brass 

Iron or Brass 

Iron, Brass, or Wood 



Size 



Length 


Width 


4' 6" 


2' 6" 


6'0" 


2' 6", 3' 


6' 3" 


3' 0" 


6' 3" 


3' 3" 


6' 3" 


3' 6" 


6' 3" 


4'0" 


6' 3" 


4' 6" 



SPRINGS 



Kinds 



Crib 

Couch bed 

Iron or Brass 

Wood 

Iron or Brass 

Iron or Brass 

Iron, Brass, or Wood. 



National 



$5.75 
6.75 
7.50 
8.75 

10.75 



Price 



Woven 
Wire 



$5.75 
6.75 
7.50 
8.75 

10.75 



$16.00— $22.50 
16.25— 22.75 
16.25— 22.75 
16.50— 22.00 
16.75— 23.25 



MATTRESSES 



Crib 

Couch bed 

Iron or Brass 

Wood 

Iron or Brass 

Iron or Brass 

Iron, Brass, or Wood 



Price 



$7.50— $17.25 
10.00— 23.00 
12.00— 28.75 
12.00— 30.00 
15.00— 34.50 
17.50— 40.25 
20.00— 48.00 



Weight 



S 



O 



O! S 05 I — ■ 



Cotton Felt 



Price 



$6.45— $9.60 
8.00— 20.00 
11.30— 22.00 
12.30— 22.75 
13.00— 24.00 
13.60— 25.50 
14.00— 26.50 



Weight 



15 lbs. 
22 lbs. 
30 lbs. 
30 lbs. 
35 lbs. 
40 lbs. 
45 lbs. 



Mattresses and pillows are usually sold by the same store or 
department that sells springs. The composition of a mattress, with 
regard to cleanliness of material, is sometimes controlled by state or 



190 



HOUSEWIFERY 



local le<ial standards or inspection. The cost varies accordinj,^ to the 
dill'crent materials used in the mattress (Fig. I<i0). 

The mattress filling may be corn husk, grass or hay, wool or 
cotton, short hair like goat's hair, or good horse hair; and the 
latter, which is commonly used in hctter mattresses, may vary 
widely in ([iiaiity. The corn husks, or grass and hay, if clean, will 




Fig. 12e.— .Mattiebs inutciials. 1, Corn husk; 2, excelsior; 3, ticking; 4 and 5, Kupoc silk 
floss; 0, goats' hair; 7, grass; 8, curled horse hair; 9, mattress made in classroom. 



make a cheap mattress which will give service as long as it does not 
hmip or break up into small pieces.. Sometimes one-half of a mat- 
tress is made of a layer of cotton, with grass or husks in the other 
half, which adds much to the comfort. 

Tufting. — ]\rost mattresses have cotton tufting, arranged in 
diamond shape. The plain tacking seems more sanitary, but does 
not wear so well. Some prefer no tufting in the mattress. Such 
a iriattress must be of good quality if the filling does not slip and 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 191 

pack. The imperial rolled edge is considered the best finish ; it has 
four rows of tacking in the boxing. All the better grades of mat- 
tresses have two or three rows of tacking, and may have round 
corners instead of square ones. 

Cotton Felt. — The wool-felt or cotton-felt mattress is a cheap, 
comfortable, and durable mattress. All cotton mattresses are not 
cheap, nor in any way a makeshift ; and the housekeeper may choose, 
after considerable investigation to buy one of the modern cotton- 
felt mattresses. A cotton-felt mattress is built up of layer upon 
layer of thin cotton, and the whole enclosed in a tick; it is not 
made by filling a tick with cotton stuffing. A cotton mattress, if of 
good quality, will give good wear, but it is not so suitable as some 
other materials for remaking. Sunning and airing the cotton mat- 
tress, and in fact, any mattress, keeps it in. better condition. 

Hair. — The standard mattress has been considered a horse hair 
mattress. The long mane and tail hair is used. Mane hair is first 
quality, and tail hair second quality. The hair is washed, sterilized 
under high pressure steam, and twisted in huge ropes which when 
uncoiled make a curled hair. The best hair comes from South 
x4merica and Australia, and is either white, black or gray. The 
white, if a natural color, is the most expensive, but for general 
use it is far more important to buy a hair of good length regardless 
of color. Deterioration of the hair arises through the wear of a 
mattress causing the hair to break, shorten, and then lose its spring. 
Beating mattresses with stick beaters breaks the hair. Shorter hair 
is best used for upholstery and cushions, and should l)e cheaper in 
cost than the long hair. The average price and weight of cotton 
felt and hair mattresses are tabulated on page 189. The average 
life of a hair mattress, without renewal, is said by experts to be 
about four years. This of course varies according to the original 
grade of the mattress, and also the daily care given to it. To clean 
and care for a bed, see page 250. 

Use of Feather Beds. — Feather beds are no longer being used 
as such, but as the feathers are really valuable, they may be reno- 
vated and used in one of two ways. They may be made into feather 
pillows, or into feather mattresses. The latter require a great 
many feathers, as they should be packed tightly. 

Pillows, like mattresses, have a great range in quality. They 
may be stuffed with silk floss, hair, feathers, or down. The silk 



192 HOUSEWIFERY 

floss, called Kapoc, from the cork-wood tree in the West Indies, 
is the cheapest ; it is not suitable for bed pillows, but is much used 
for couch pillows. 

Feathers may be white or gray. The Ijest goose feathers are 
procured from the live bird in the spring, about six birds of average 
size furnishing one pound of feathers. The feathers are sold by 
the pound, the price depending upon the part of the feather used, 
and upon the way the feathers are mixed. The parts used are the 
whole feather, the split feather which has had the quill removed, 
and the down. The quality differs according to the source : chicken ; 
chicken and duck, mixed feathers ; duck and goose, mixed ; goose and 
down, mixed; down. A split feather will give good service, down 
will pack, and is expensive. 

Hair pillows are cooler and firmer than feather pillows, and 
while not often used regularly in the home, are sometimes kept 
on hand for use in case of sickness. In hotels, the hair pillow is 
often the bottom pillow, used in place of the bolster. 

Pillows are not regular in size, varying from 18" x 30", weighing 
21/2 lbs., to 30" X 30", weighing 5 lbs. An average size is 22" x 30", 
weighing 3 lbs. Pillows vary in cost, from $3 to $5, according to 
size and quality of filling. 

Mattress Pads and Covers. — ^^Mattress pads protect the mat- 
tress from soil and are so easily washed that some sort of pad should 
be used on all beds. Often a folded blanket or cotton quilt is used 
but quilted pads may be purchased which are standardized to fit 
various mattresses. 

Dust covers entirely covering the mattress are desirable to keep 
it free from dust. These covers may be bought when the mattresses 
are ordered at about $4.50 for single bed size, or the housewife can 
easily make them by using two pieces of unbleached muslin, each 
the length and width of tlie mattress, and sewing in a five-inch strip 
of material to nnike a shallow, box-shaped bag large enough to 
enclose the mattress. The edges may be finished with a double seam 
by sewing first on one side and then turning and sewing the other. 
An extra half inch on all seams will have to be allowed in cutting 
for this dovd^le seam. If cotton braid is used for a bound seam, 
then one needs to make only a single seam. In any case leave one 
end open and make a fastening with tapes, or buttons and button- 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 193 

hales, or hooks and eves, or snappers. Be sure to allow for shrink- 
age ; better still, shrink the muslin before cutting. 

Sheets vary widely in quality and elaborateness of finish, but 
the fundamental difference is that some are linen and some cotton. 
The linen are best for summer use because linen radiates the heat 
from the body ; cotton on the contrary is warmer. Linen is a great 
deal more expensive ; a standard double sheet, 90 x 100, costing 
from two to three times as much as the best cotton sheet. The best 
cotton sheet is called percale. There is a wide selection now avail- 
able of various grades, in standard sizes, so that there is little reason 
for making sheets at home. Buy sheets that have been torn before 
hemming, as they are straighter than if cut; hem-stitching costs 
about ten to twenty cents more per sheet. Torn sheets are stamped 
as such. The saving in buying sheeting and making the sheets 
at home has little advantage from the money side, but does enable 
the housewife to have sheets of the precise size that she prefers. 

Size. — There are a variety of standard sizes (see table on page 
196), but the one most carefully chosen is one enough larger than the 
mattress to allow twelve to eighteen inches to turn in on all sides, 
that is, twenty-four to thirty-six inches longer and Avider than 
the bed. 

Bedspreads. — The housewife may choose almost any covering 
for the bed, if she has the spreads made (Fig. 121). Cretonne, 
lace over color, thread crocheted or knitted, crepe, unbleached mus- 
lin tufted with heavy cotton thread — all are used in making up 
spreads. If one buys ready-made, the variety is limited to Mar- 
seilles, dimity, or lace. Marseilles is heavy and usually has a raised 
pattern, while the dimity is light in weight, easily cleaned, and is 
deservedly popular for a simple but serviceable spread (Fig. 122). 
Fringe is pretty on spreads that are not to be tucked in, but the 
tangling and tearing of the thread increases the work of laundering. 
For old-fashioned bed coverings, gimp is a pretty, quaint, and 
much more serviceable trimming than fringe. 

Blankets. — The purchase of blankets requires a great deal of 
experience on the part of the purchaser. If one has had no experi- 
ence, it is desirable to go to a store of good standing and be advised. 
A blanket should be soft and warm but not too heavy. The quality 
and percentage of the wool is the first important question. French 
blankets are beautifully finished. Scotch blankets are harsh and 
13 



194 



HOUSEWIFERY 



have a poor finish, but are warm and durable. English blankets 
are much lilce the Scotch. Domestic blankets compare favorably 
with any of the others in both texture and finish. Tlie great variety 
of blankets is due to the irregularity of lengtb of wood fil^re and 
the weave. Some of the poor qualities appear tluil'y and woolly, 
but the sliort wool fil)res have been blown into the warp and are not 
tightly woven. Such a blanket wlieii washetl will lose a large 
amount of wool and finally leave only tbe cotton warp. 



JJ 




Fig. 121. 



-A hand -woven spread long enough to cover pillow 
Woodruff. Dunkirk, N. Y. 



Made by Mrs Jessie H. 



The grade and percentage of wool really controls the quality and 
the selling price. The manufacturer knows the exact weight of 
wool and cotton in each blanket made, and the ticket attached 
to the blanket should give an honest statement. The blankets 
range from all cotton to all wool (98 per cent.) . A 100 per cent, wool 
blanket really does not exist. A good medium grade is about 60 
per cent, to 80 per cent, wool ; the larger percentage of wool adds 
to the care necessary in washing. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



195 



'^ ' , /^ ':•;'' 


•■.•"v,'' . . 


^^■■■■li 


liip" 




Wk: 


'■'■r-'^':-}'-'/"' 






y . y.. 


- -- - 











Fig. 122. — Various weaves of counterpanes. 1 and 4. J.Iarseilles; 2 and 3, dimity. 



196 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Borders of blankets arc more important than one would imagine. 
The variety of color phiys little part, but what is more important is 
that the border is made of the same- quality avooI and not of cotton 
as is so often the case. The rufHed appearance Avhich is seen after 
washing is due to the wool used for tlie border being run in length- 
wise across the blanket and then shrinking in length. Hospital 
blankets are best without a l)order. 

Blankets are usually sold double, i.e., two blankets woven to- 
gether at one end. For ease of handling, and to save the blanket, 
it is desirable to cut them in two and bind the cut edges. Blanket 
binding ribbon may be bought fen- this purpose. 

Comfortables. — Comfortables may be made from cheesecloth 
or cotton batting fillings, but are better made from cheesecloth and 
"' sheet wool." The wool can l)e purchased in stores from the bedding 
department just the size for single, three-quarter, and full-size 
comfortables. The wool washes better, and if tacked or quilted 
into fine cheesecloth, it "will make an excellent comfortable, light, 
warm and easily cleaned. Silkaline, challie, satins and silks make 
more elaborate comfortables, but what is most to be considered is 
the desirability of having this heavy bedding cleaned. 

Down |)uffs wash very well, if made up in a washable cover. 
(Seepage 282.) 

Sizes of Bedding: 



Size of 

72 in 
72 in 
90 in, 
90 in 



Sheets : 

. X 06 in. 
. X lOS in. 
. X 90 in. 
. xl08 in. 



( 2 m. 
72 in. 
SO in. 



Size of Bedspreads: 

X 90 in. \^,. , , , 
-..^rv • ( Single bed 
, x 100 in. I *= 

1. X 100 in. — Three-q u a r - 

ter Ix'd or 

double n o t 

hang down 

90 in. 100 in. — Double bed 

97 in. X IIG in. — Extra size 



Size of Pilloiv-sUps : 

22% in. X 36 in. — E, e g u 1 ation 

size 
25 in. X 36 in. 
27 in. X 36 in. 

Size of Blankets: 

60in. xSOin.) o- i i i 
^„ . „„ . > hingle bed 

60 in. X 90 m. / *= 

72 in. X 82 in. \ TlireeMj u a r t e r 

72 in. X 90 in. ) lied 

la •"•'' on "M Double bed 
80 in. X 90 in. j 



Comfortahles. one size: 
72 in. X 78 in. 
SILVERWARE 
Silverware is classed under the two headings — " solid " and 
plated." Solid or sterling silver, which means about 925 parts of 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 197 

silver to 75 parts of copper, is the best, the most expensive, and will 
outwear the best j^late silver. The solid silver is an alloy of silver 
and copper. The plated ware has a coating of silver deposited by 
electrolysis upon a suitable base, e.g., on steel for knives and 
forks, on German silver for spoons, and on Britannia metal for hol- 
low ware. In sterling silver, the heavier weight is the most desir- 
able, as the lighter weights, if given any hard use, bend, dent, or 
even break. 

For constant use j^lated ware recommends itself to the average 
household. The better plated silver on the market compares very 
favorabl}" with sterling silver in appearance and durability, and is 
much less expensive. Triple plate is the best plate, but often the 
most-used silver is double or even single plate. The idea expressed 
in these terms leads one to think that silver is dipped or coated so 
many times; instead, it means that a certain weight of silver is 
allowed as a coating to every dozen pieces. For example, it is better 
to have knives or forks stamped " 15 dwt.,^' moaning that fifteen 
pennj'weight has been "used in coating a dozen. Tablespoons marked 
20 dwt. will equal teaspoons marked "10 dwt.," Ijccanse the area 
of a tablespoon is about twice that of a teaspoon. Bottoms of 
bowls and backs of handles should have an extra coating, because 
they receive the greatest amount of wear. 

The number of pieces in the making of each finished piece of 
silver also controls the cost. A bowl made of two pieces costs 
about half what the same size and weight bowl will' cost if made 
up of several pieces, i.e., handles, spouts, and mounts. Sometimes 
the ''mounts,'' which are bands or finishing sections, are ornamented, 
thus increasing the cost considerably. The bright finish costs 
slightly more than the frosted or satin finishes in silver. 

Silver-plating solutions advertised for use in the home are very 
likely to be composed of solutions of mercury salts. In this case, 
mercury is deposited on the spoon, giving a bright silvery appear- 
ance, but the housewife must . remember that mercury salts are 
poisonous. 

Patterns and shapes in flat and hollow silverware vary from 
time to time to suit changing fashions, but plain, simple patterns 
are always in good taste and are permanently on the market. The 
very plain patterns will be more easily cleaned, but will show 
scratches more readily. In selecting the pattern it is therefore well 



198 HOUSEWIFERY 

to consider the time and lal)<)i' it will take to keep it as clean and 
attractive as when new, and to select in terms of economy in care 
as well as of appearance. 

For Clean iiiL;- Silver, see pa^es 2G0-?(;'^. 

HOUSEHOLD POTTERY AND GLASS 

Household Pottery. — AH household pottery, whether for 
kitchen or table use, is of two general types: earthenware and porce- 
lain ov ehina. All pottery is made of earth products molded and 
then baked at high temperature; and for household pottery the 
entire surface is covered with a glass-like glaze which is fired upon 
the pottery. The two types mentioned differ in the constituent 
materials and in the degree of hardness of the inner l)ody. In 
earthenware the inner body is soft, and in porcelain or china it 
is hard. 

Kitchen or cooking ware is ordinarily earthenware and is 
produced in various colors ; jwrcelain cooking utensils are also now 
available. Ordinary cooking ware is given a hard glaze to prevent 
food getting below the surface ; if in time the surface glaze " crazes '' 
or cracks, the dish becomes discolored and may possibly impart 
a flavor to food cooked in it. Someone has said that the much-used 
old-fashioned porcelain pie jdate needs only to be placed in the 
oven to produce a juicy, well-flavored pie. This cooking ware can- 
not be suljjected to sudden changes of temperature like metal articles. 
To cool it suddenly in cold water may cause '^ crazing '"' or even peel- 
ing of the glaze, and cracking of the dish. 

Table ware is available in the two general types of glazed 
ware, the earthenware wdiich has the soft inner body, and tlie porce- 
lain or china (Fig. 123) (so-called because first made in China) with 
the hard inner body. The earthen table ware is the familiar heavy 
white table ware often called " stoneware," which is less expensive 
than the porcelain and accordingly finds a wide use in homes and 
in restaurants and institutions. 

China or porcelain, which is more expensive, differs from earthen- 
or white-ware in two ways. First, it is hard glazed and nou-aljsorb- 
ing; even if chipped and the glaze broken no stain remains because 
of absorption. Ink may be used as a test. Secondly, it is trans- 
lucent, showing light through. Porcelain is less likely to chi]i than 
earthenware, and so is more serviceable, but it is more l)rittle. 



HOUSEHOLD PURNISHINGS 



199 




Fig. 123. — Good selection of china and silver. Three sections at the right holding flat silver 
are built as a sliding tray, thereby increasing the storage capacity of the drawer. 



200 HOUSEWIFERY 

The best quality table china should be hard, compact, non-absorbent, 
highly glaiied, and of fine grain. The finest ware is made of fl.int 
or feldspar. Tiio higher the glaze and tlio more compact the body, 
the more brittle is the china. 

To produce fine china, the materials must be properly propor- 
tioned, mixed, and prepared, and the baking must be exactly right 
as to intensity and duration of heat. To get this perfection of 
glaze, great patience and skill are required, and as a result china 
or porcelain is expensive. If the glaze and the body are not suited 
to each other, the glaze shrinks and causes " crazing."' 

There are two grades of table ware : " firsts,"' perfect in shape, 
design, and glaze, bring the highest price; " seconds" are imperfect 
in one, two, or all three requirements. One may select table ware 
imperfect in either shape or design, but should never accept a piece 
imperfect in glaze, as the glaze is the protection. 

In selecting there are old standard patterns availal)le as in table 
linen, such as " willow," " madras,'' etc., and there are new designs. 
Two types that are popular are the band of colors, either solid or 
broken, and the band of gold. The colored bands are always in 
good taste, because the design is simple and pleasing when con- 
sidered in combination with flowers, linen, and food. The single 
gold bands are most attractive, but more expensive and less durable 
because gold cannot be fired to such a high temperature. Avoid 
ridges in patterns ; choose handles that are easily grasped ; and china 
in general that is not overdecorated, especially if one must use the 
same set of dishes continually. It is greater economy to buy what is 
known as "open stock" pattern, so that any replacing of broken 
dishes may be done at any time and at little cost. This is possible 
in expensive as well as in cheaper dishes. 

Suggestions for Buying China. — European and Oriental 
porcelains are " biscuited " at a low temperature which makes this 
kind of china superior as to glaze. European china is bluish white, 
while American china is cream white. There is no special value, 
however, in the color as far as wear is concerned. English and 
Oriental china are the more fragile, while the American has the 
stronger body, resisting shocks. American china is giving excellent 
service, and many good types have been developed which are equal 
to the imported porcelains. American china is most worthy of 
the housewife's consideration. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 



201 



A rolled edge on china prevents chipping, and so is of special 
service for hotel and institution china; it does not necessarily mean 
a thick chma. 

Decorations on china are put on by hand, or by the decalcomania 
process. Decalcomania is a process of transferring designs directly 
upon the china, and is the process commonly used. To decorate 
by hand is, of course, very slow, detailed work, all of which means 
very exj^ensive china. 

Table Service for Six (Limited). — 



Ch in a : 

12 dinner plates 

12' breakfast plates 

12 soup dishes (plates or cups) 

12 breakfast cups and saucera 

12 tea cups and saucers 

24 bread and butter plates 

1 10 in. dish 

1 12 in. dish 

1 16 in. dish 

1 18 in. dish 

1 covered vegetable dish (oval) 

1 covered vegetable dish 

( round ) 

2 platters, medium and large 
1 soup tureen 

1 sauce boat or bowl 
1 salad bowl — can be used for 
vegetables 
12 tea cups and saucers 
6 after-dinner cups and 

saucers 
1 chop platter 
12 oatmeal dishes 
12 sauce dishes 



Glass: 

12 glasses 
G finger bowlg 
1 pudding dish 
1 creamer 

1 sugar 

might be in china, 
silver, if not in 
glass 
12 sherbet glasses 

2 salts 

2 peppers 
1 vase 

Silver: 
12 forks 
12 knives 

6 bread and butter knives 

4 tablespoons 
24 teaspoons 

G dessert spoons — round bowl 
good for soup 

1 sugar spoon 

1 butter knife or fork 



With regard to table equipment, the number of individual dishes 
is controlled by the size of the family, and the kind of service 
desired. Most housewives would choose dainty service and good 
style, and would prefer to have convenient dishes in adequate num- 
ber and appropriate silver, even if less expensive china and silver 
and glass is chosen. For such a standard, which is strongly recom- 
mended, buy twice as many of all individual dishes, glasses, and 
silver, as the number in the family. This makes possible enter- 
taining with much less worry and work, and relieves one of the 
feeling of not having enough. It is certainly a reasonable standard 



202 HOUSEWIFERY 

to choose china, ^lass, and silver which is not expensive to re- 
place and is, therefore, not a source ol' anxiety to the housewife. 

Glassware. — Most people appreciate beautiful glass, for in 
tal)h' s('r\ ice ])ai'ticularly notliing can surj)ass it. It gives a finish- 
ing touch of beauty and simple elegance. Glassware is known as 
pure lead glass and lime glass. A preponderance of lime produces 
a very brittle glass, while lead gives a glass that is tough and wears' 
well. Of the different grades, rock crystal or pure leaf glass is the 
clearest and finest produced. The determining cpialities of glass 
are its smoothness, brilliancy, freedom from bubl)les and cloudiness, 
whiteness, and transparency. 

Decoration of glass is done by etching with acids or by cutting 
with emery wheels. Cut glass needs very great care. Sudden 
changes of temperature or a slight knock are likely to break the 
glass along the line of cut. It is therefore not desirable for constant 
family use. Pressed glass is much less expensive and some of the 
products are almost as beautiful as the more expensive cut glass, and 
for everyday service they are much more desirable. The poorest 
qualities are heavy and show the seam where the halves are joined. 

Many makers of glass, like makers of china, stamp their name 
in the bottom of the piece. It is a great advantage to the purchaser 
to know some of these trade-marks and the quality which they 
represent. 

Good plain lead table glasses cost from $1.25 to $1.75 per dozen. 
Cut glass varies widely in price according to the elaborateness of 
the design as well as the quality of the glass. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. Given a living room on the nortk side of the house, what colors would 

you choose for wallpaper, rugs and draperies? 

2. How do home-made rugs compare, economically, with those purchased? 

Show to what extent the housewife may or may not l)e justified in 
making her own rugs. 

3. List inexpensive materials which might he used in place of regular 

curtain materials. 

4. What are the advantages of two-tone color materials for furnishings? 

5. Wliy may not willow furniture always be an economical purchase? 

REFERENCES 

Cox, George J.. Pottery. IMacmillan Co. 

Kellogc. Alice, Home Furnishing — Practical and Artistic. Fred A. 

Stokes Co. 



HOUSEHOLD FURNISHINGS 203 

KiNNE, Helen, and Cooley, Anna, Clothing and Health. Macmillan Co. 

McGowAN, Ellen, and Waite, Charlotte, Textiles and Clothing. Mac- 
millan Co. . 

Parsons, Frank, Interior Decoration. Doubleday, Page & Co. 

Priestman, Mabel, Art and Econojiy in Household Decoration. John 
Lane Co. 

QuiNN, Mary J., Planning and Furnishing the Home. Harper & Bros. 

RoLPH, Amy, Hojie Decoration. ]\Iacmillan Co. 

SotT)ER, M. Attie, Notions. Ronald Press Co. 

Thompson, Eliza B., Textiles: Cottons and Linens. Ronald Press Co. 

Thompson, Eliza B., Textiles: Silks. Ronald Press Co. 

Von Holst, H. V., Modern American Homes. American Technical Society. 



CHAPTER VITI 
STORAGE 

Storage is siicli an important matter that the eon sir! oration of it 
should begin when the house is first planned with the architect. The 
architect sliould be eager to cooperate, so that in his slvilled way he 
may express on paper the practical ideas of the housewife, whose 
suggestions may be most definite and valuable based on her experi- 
ence in housekeeping. 

Closets, bins, and boxes are a real necessity. Storage does not 
mean unnecessary hoarding; it means definite planning as to bin, 
box, or closet, and the systematic arrangement of the contents of 
each — a place for everything. One of the signs of the times is the 
definite stand housewives are taking regarding inadequate storage 
space both in city and in country houses, and the demand they are 
making that shelves, cujiboards, and closets l)e tliought out Avith 
the utmost care, and not " tucked in " as a last consideration. Each 
available space, every corner, under the stairs, and even panels, may 
with profit be utilized for storage. 

Rural Home and Storage. — The rural home usually will have 
more commodious storage than the smaller town house, because the 
attic is a feature of such a home ; and except in the southern section 
of the country, a cellar will usually be provided. 

Commercial Storage. — In city homes where space is limited, 
storage facilities rented from commercial storage companies are an 
important factor. This includes the fur and woollen storage which 
can be had for furs at a cost of two per cent, of the valuation. For 
this price, the storage company sends for the goods, cares for them 
during the season, or an entire year if desired, and returns them 
on order. General storage is sometimes charged for by the cubic 
foot of space occupied. Furniture storage may be hired at so 
much a month per storage room, or so much per van load ; the prices 
vary, too, according to the security of the warehouse, higher prices 
being charged ■ for storage in absolutely fireproof buildings. The 
cost of placing fire insurance upon one's goods while they are in 
storage should also be learned in advance by inquiry of an iusur- 
204 



STORAGE 



205 



ance liroker ; the saving in low storage rent is sometimes more than 
offset hy a high rate of fire insurance upon the goods. 

Carpet and rug storage in many cities is a specialty, and the 
storage companies also clean and repair the floor coverings if so 
ordered, before putting them into storage. 

The storage of silver in special vaults is provided by certain 
banks and other storage companies, while valuable papers as stocks 



=5? 




STORMC IWOC 



S~ 



4- 



NORTH 
Fig. 124.— a planforan ideal cellar. Courtesy olCh&vlesE.'Whitea.adLadies Home Journal. 

and bonds, and jewelry, are cared for in the small safe deposit 
boxes provided by banks, at from $3 to $10 a year. 

CELLAR OR BASEMENT STORAGE 
The cellar or basement is the place most often chosen for the 
storage of food, because it is cool and away from the light. One 
problem of the cellar is to keep it dry; its drainage will depend 
upon the location of the house where there is natural drainage, 
and upon the question of whether there is a good concrete floor. The 
provision of several small windows to provide cross ventilation 



206 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 123. — Vegetable and fruit stor- 
age. Courtesy of Charles E. White and 
Ladies Home Journal. 



is importaut. If a part of the cellar used as a food room has hut 
one window, ventilation can be secured hy dividing the window 
mto two parts and by building an air flue or box from one part 
of the window to within a few iiu'lies of the cellar floor, thus pro- 
viding for a current of air. 

If the cellar is divided into rooms or compartments (Fig. 124), 
the heating apparatus, together with the bins for fuel may be 
partitioned off by tliemselves, to keep the rest of the cellar clean, 

and also to keep the heat away 
from the food. 

Coal and wood bins should 
1)6 placed in close relationship to 
the furnace for the furnace coal, 
and to the cellar stairs for kitchen 
coal or wood. The latter, if pos- 
sible, should be stored upstairs 
adjoining the kitchen. The cellar 
stairs should lead directly by a 
well-lighted passage to the kitchen. 
For the convenience of the housekeeper and the coal man, the coal 
bins should be connected by good-sized windows, easily opened, to 
the driveway. Consider the convenience of this before deciding 
that any extra cost involved is too great. 

Vegetable bins in the form of trays with wire bottoms are 
best, because the vegetables may then have a circulation of air. This 
will prevent their "' sweating "' and molding as much as they other- 
wise would. These bins may be mounted one above the other on 
uprights (Fig. 135), and may be raised from the floor enough to 
aid ventilation, and to permit cleaning beneath them. The fronts 
of these bins may be hinged to let down, and in that way it is easy 
to empty and clean them. ( See also Vegetable Pits, page 216.) 

Preserve closets should be in a cool, dark, dry part of the 
cellar, and should have plenty of shelf room. The shelves should be 
planned by reckoning the surface area required for so many jars 
and glasses, and the space between shelves should be enough to 
allow for height of jar or glass. 

It is told by a large canning company that they are able to t^ke 
account of stock in less than an hour, because it was planned that the 
■shelves should hold so many rows of gallon, quart, or pint cans, and 



STORAGE 



207 



each row should be so many cans deep. It was only a matter of 
counting and multiplying. In this method rows may be labelled 
rather than individual cans. Always put old jars in front to be 
used first. 

Swinging shelves are the old-fashioned way of i)utting food 
high and dry for safety. They are especially serviceable where 
mice are troublesome. 

Trunk Storage. — Housekeepers differ as to the best place for 
trunk storage, cellar or attic. It matters not, so long as the place 
is diy and clean, as well as con- 
venient to reach. If possible, 
choose a place away from all pipes, 
so no sudden leak will endanger 
the trunks. A rack or platform of 
wood (Fig. 126) under the trunk 
in a basement ensures dryness, 
and a duot cover of paper, bed tick- 
ing, or unbleached muslin is worth 
jiroviding. 

The garret or attic is a storage 
place of practical importance. As 
to the holding-over of discarded 
clothing, furniture, and various 
other moval)le property, there is argument for and against. Furni- 
ture and clothing may later be utilized, in some emergency, but it 
is not wise to store so much that it amounts to hoarding. The 
general principle that should control the accumulation of discarded 
things would seem to be to save nothing unless it seems at the 
time to have possibilities of later use, and to keep things of a kind 
together in attic storage. The attic will also in many houses be 
the place of seasonal storage of things in current use; where sum- 
mer things are put away over the winter, and vice versa; such storage 
is discussed elsewhere in this chapter. 




Fig. 126. — Trunk and bag storage. 
Courtesy of Charles E. Wlute and Ladies 
Home Journal 



LAUNDRY STORAGE 

A clothes chute of metal may lead down from all floors to the 
basement and terminate there in a bin, closet, or wire cage. This 
should be planned to empty in or near the laundry, and have 
sufficient capacity to hold the week's soiled clothes. Hampers 



208 



HOUSEWIFERY 



and baskets throughout the house arc not necessary with these 
conditions. This clothes bin or closet may be of metal or of papier 
mache. The clothes container at the l>ottom of the chute may be 

enamelled or painted at such 
inter\'als of time as to insure its 
l)eing clean and not rusting or 
mildewing. 

Laundry Closet. — The 
closet in the laundry is best 
divided into two large com- 
])artments, so that one-half may 
be arranged with shelves and 
the other half divided to have 
a place for all large equipment, 
which, if allowed to remain out 
in the room, becomes dusty. 
Available space will help de- 
cide whether this storage should 
1)9 built as a single closet yvith 
a division into two parts, or 
w h e t h e r ironing equipment 
shall l)e kept in one closet in one 
part of the room, and washing 
equipment in another. This 
latter idea will appeal to the 
housewife whose efficiency study 
has proved to her that each tool 
is best stored near its working 
center. 

A laundry closet (Fig-s. 127 
and 128), whether divided or 
not, should be high enough to 
take the skirt board and the 
curtain frame, deep and broad 
enough to take the boiler placed on end, besides the clothes 
basket, and a WTinger if a hand-operated one is used. Xeither 
the basket nor "wringer are tools ready for service if they have 
stood in an open room all week. It is better to slielve the 
other section to hold the stain-removing outfit, such as bottles, 
droppers, a small bowl, and the jars of salt, paraffin, starch, and 




Fig. 127." 



-One section laundry equipment 
closet. 



STORAGE 



209 



borax. Other shelves make possible a grouping of soaps, soda, and 
kerosene on one shelf, and starch kettle, strainer and stirring spoons 
on another. On a lower shelf may be kept the irons and iron 
racks. A drawer may be planned to hold ironing-board cover.-, 
felts and cheesecloth. The shelved compartment need not be so 
deep as the other, in fact, is better just deep enough to hold the 
largest starch cooker or bowl. 






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Fig. 128. — A laundry closet for the small home laundry. 

For Laimdry Closet Equipment, see Laundry Equipment, 
page 104. 

KITCHEN STORAGE 

Kitchen and Pantry Closets. — They are alike in general de- 
sign. Usually they are divided into an upper and lower section, 
so as to divide the heavier utensils such as heavy kettles and boilers 
from the lighter pans and bowls (Fig. 129) . Shelves half as wide as 
the closet is deep are best in these lower compartments. Special 
14 



210 



HOUSEWIFERY 



cupboards should be built large enough to hold harrels of sugar and 
of flour. The top of these cupboards opens on a hinge, as well as 
the side, so as to make the top of the barrel easily reached without 
drawing out the barrel; barrel swivels on which to swing the barrels 




Fig. 129. — Good type of kitchen closet. 



may be put into these closets. Such cupboards are usually made 
of wood, of course, but one may now secure an all-metal closet (Fig. 
129), which may be purchased in sections of wdiitc enamelled metal. 
Glass doors to the upper part of cupboards ensure a light, clean 
cupboard which is as open as open shelving, without having the dust. 
In narrow quarters it is better to have the closet doors slide. 



STORAGE 



211 



The shelving should be planned to be within reach. This is 
possible if the housekeeper is careful to plan less waste of space 
on the so-called counter of the cupboard and less unused space be- 
tween the shelves. A slanting roof to the closet is much more easily 
cleaned than the usual flat top. 

About the sink by means of small shelves are best stored the dish- 
washing and sink-cleaning 
necessities. One or two nar- 
row shelves directly over the 
sink provide a place near at 
hand for the scouring pow- 
der, the knife-cleaning ma- 
terial, a small jar of dis- 
solved washing soda, a jar 
with s6ap scraps soaking in 
water to be used in dish 
washing, a cork for rubbing 
knives, and a silver cleaner. 
From the shelf may hang the 
soap shaker, the dish drainer, 
and perhaps the dishmop 
and bottle washer. On a 
hook under the drain-l)oard 
may hang the dishpan and 
the draining rack. If space 
is limited, a case of drawers 
may be built under the 
draining board, on either or 
both sides. This in no way closes in the plumbing, for these 
drawers may be on rollers, so as to be pulled out easily. If these 
drawers are shallow, they give classified storage space for towels, 
aprons, and cloths. 

FOOD STORAGE 

Food storage involves refrigeration, preservation from the air 
by canning, preserving by cellar or dug-outs, and also food containers 
for storage of current food supplies. 

Refrigeration represents means of storage for food at a low 
temperature of about 45°-55° F. in an ice-box or refrigerator. 
In order that the refrigerator may be kept at a more or less even 




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Fig. 130. — A sectional view of one wall of 
a refrigerator. 



212 



HOUSEWIFERY 



tcni])eratiire, it must be so constructed as to prevent the entrance 
through the walls of any heat from the outside. This is accom- 
plished by the use of non-conducting materials (Fig. 130) placed 
in layers with air spaces between. The efficiency of the refrigerator 
depends almost entirely upon the perfection of this insulation. 

Various conditions influence the possibility of not maintaining 
the temperature noted a])Ove, such as storing in a damp cellar, 




Fia. 131. — Diagram showing the circulation of air in two usual types of refrigerators. 
Air entering the ice chamber is cooled, and sinks through the bottom openings, drawing 
in the warmer air at the top. Butter, milk, and meats should occupy the cooler space, 
while food having a strong odor should be placed where the air is just about to enter the ice 
chamber. 



exposure on an outside porch, putting in hot foods, and too frequent 
opening of the refrigerator, it being found that each time the door 
is opened, the temperature increases 1° to 3°. Someone has aptly 
said, " Do not open tlie door and camp out before the refrigerator 
Avhile planning the next meal. It might l)e more costly than to lose 
the left-overs.'' In a refrigerator large enough for a family of four 
or five, the ice capacity should be 60 to 75 pounds. The refrigerator 
temperature is higher than cold storage, which is at 34° F. and a 
refrigerator, therefore, is not capable of keeping food for as long a 
time as cold storage. 



STORAGE 



213 



Three conditions control economic preservation by refrigeration : 
low temperature, ventilation, and dryness. Low temperature can 
readily be secured by the melting of tlie ice in the refrigerator; 




Fig. 132. — Refrigerator sliowing good interior arrangement. 

ventilation is accomplished by the construction of the refrigerator, 
so that it will allow circulating spaces for warm and cool air (Fig. 
131) ; the dryness depends upon rapid change of air in the ice-box, 
good drainage to carry away the ice when melted into water, and no 
covering of the ice by wet cloths or papers. 



214 HOL'SEWIFERY 

The proper construction of the refrigerator helps in its care. 
The best types keep the ice separate from the food, and subdivide 
the food compartment so that foods such as eggs, milk and butter, 
more sensitive to odors, may be kept by themselves (Fig. 132). 

The interior construction of the box may bo of wood, galvanized 
iron, enamel, or porcelain, but whatever it is, it should be smooth, 
free from cracks, made of material impervious to moisture and odors, 
and easily cleaned. For general efFicienc}^ the racks shoiild he made 
of tubes or wire, so smooth as to be easily cleaned, so close together 
that there is little chance for tipping and spilling of dishes. 

The hardware of the refrigerator, especially the door latches, 
should he of the best quality, hut more important is the tightness 
with which the doors fit. They should be so tight that not even a 
thin calling card could be slipped inside a door when the door is 
fastened. The wooden refrigerators are cheaper and serviceable, 
but the metal lined ones are more easily cared for, as the metal 
naturally resists moisture and odors. The enamel refrigerator is a 
luxury, not a necessity, and without care Avill be no cleaner than 
the cheaper kind. 

The drains should be open and easily cleaned. Be sure that 
the " elbow " and bends in the drain pipes are so arranged that they 
can be cleaned with a Ijrusii, or removed and scrubbed in cleaning. 
The refrigerator may be connected to the house drain by putting 
in a water trap. This is necessary to. avoid any inflow of sewer 
gas. The refrigerator, even then, is not connected by a continuous 
pipe into the sewer, hut drips into a metal lined open cup or box 
which is in turn connected with the sewer pipe. If such a connec- 
tion cannot be arranged, a drip pan under the refrigerator is safer 
to use. For ease and cleanliness a door is often built in the back 
of the ice compartment, so that the ice may be put in through a 
window or small door from the outside wall of the house or porch. 

To clean refrigerator, see chapter on Cleaning and Care, page 269. 

On the farm, where there is an icehouse, the reserve supply of 
perishable foods can sometimes he stored in the ice house. 

The " iceless refrigerator " (Fig. 133), convenient for the farm- 
house or other detached houses, depends for its cool temperature 
upon the evaporation of water in moistened curtains hung a.bout a 
food closet made of wire netting. The curtains, made of canton 
flannel, button tight about the food cage ; they are kept moist by 



STORAGE 



215 



keeping prolongations of their lower ends in a pail of water. Such 
an iceless box will keep milk and butter cool. 

Refrigerator Dishes. — Much room is wasted in refrigerators 
bv not having small compact food containers for the left-overs. 
Wide-topped flaring bowls, for example, represent great waste of 
space because, while they may have a small base, they project at the 
top far enough to prevent anything else standing beside them. 




Fig. 133. — Iceless refrigerator. 

Half-pint and pint fruit jars, and small straight-sided bowls, make 
good containers without costing much money. These containers also 
protect finer dishes, which should not be in the refrigerator, because 
of the likelihood of their being chipped. Wide-mouthed fruit jars 
are especially suitable for storing washed lettuce, because the top 
can be screwed on tight and the jar laid directly on the ice. A few 
covered containers should be purchased to take such things as left- 
over fish, cabbage, onions, and other strong smelling fish. Glass- 
covered butter containers insure the butter being kept in a sweet 
condition, because the glass is non-aljsorbing and easily cleaned. 



216 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Window food boxes serve as a substitute for a refrigerator, 
and can he used satisfactorily al)Out eight montlis in the year in a 
large part of the United States. In buihling a house, it is well 
to provide a cool box built on the outside wall of the house, with 
a refrigerator door opening directly into the kitchen through the 
kitclicn wall. (Sco clui])tcr on Equipment, page 99.) 

Food pits, dug-outs or caves A\here food, mostly vegetable, 
is buried lor storage, furnish often in rural c(iiniiiunities tlie most 




Fig. 134.— ^'arious types of containers for the house. 1, soiled clothes box, papier 
mach^; 2, soiled clothes bag, paper; 3, bread box; 4 and .5, garbage; 6, waste basket, papier 
mache; 7, wooden flour bin; 8, ground glass-stoppered bottle; 0, porcelain flour jar; 10, glass 
flour jar. 



feasible way to stow away large supplies. A straw or corn husk 
covering put over the top of the cave will prevent freezing. To 
open, one must remove the top covering and dig down to the food. 
It is operated in the best fashion Avhen the food contents are not 
exposed too often, therefore the housekeeper should take out enough 
celery, turnips, etc., for perhaps a week's supply. 

Food Containers. — As the study of housekeeping advances, 
merchants are meeting the varied demands for various food con- 
tainers (Fig. 134). The housekeeper's demand to-day is that food 
containers be non-absorbent of both odors and grease ; that they 
be easily handled ; often that they be attractive in order to help make 



STORAGE 217 

the kitchen one of the most attractive rooms of the house. The 
housekeeper may even plan her kitchen with a color scheme, in which 
the containers may match in color the tiling, paint, and linoleum. 
If glass containers are used, the labels which are pasted on often 
introduce the color. 

Tin. — Tin containers, painted or Japanned, are the cheapest 
quality, but there is a range of prices even in these. Tin is light in 
weight but has two disadvantages, in that moisture is likely to 
rust the tin, and that it is not possible to see the amount of the 
contents. It can easily be seen that this may amount to consider- 
able loss in time and in energy. 

Earthen or CrocJiery. — Earthen or crockery food containers are 
the best looking on the market to-day, some of them having the 
same attractive decoration as dishes. They are easily cleaned and 
the uniformity of sets makes them attractive. They are expensive, 
breakable, and also hide the contents. 

Glass. — Glass is perhaps the most sanitary material for food 
containers. It is obtainable in various sizes, prices, and shapes, is 
non-absorbent, and is particularly useful because it shows the con- 
tents. Some of the jars and bottles, especially those for the medicine 
case, will be found with the names etched into the glass. Black 
paint lettering, or lahels which are shellaced on, are very helpful. 

Canning and Preserving Containers. — Earthenware jars and 
crocks, and glass preserving jars, bottles, and glasses, are used for 
the storage of canned, preserved, salted, pickled, or dried foods. 
Paper and tin can containers are used increasingly in the private 
household. Large wooden containers may be used for pickling. 
Fruit jars should be examined for clearness and freedom from any 
dimming, since cheap glass products of this kind are not always 
insoluble. Fruit juices may leach out from inferior glass enough 
alkali to interfere with the presentation of the canned material; 
this may account for some otherwise mysterious spoiling of canned 
fruit. 

In canning or preserving, the principle is to store away the food 
where it will be free from bacterial action. To accomplish tliis, the 
food is heated to the boiling point, and held at that temperature 
until all the bacteria and their spores {egg, cells) are killed, and then 
it is put into hot sterile jars or bottles. The jar or container is then 
made air-tight. With glass jars this is done by having tight-fitting 



218 HOUSEWIFERY 

covers which fasten down with a screw or lever fastener, and are 
made tighter by using new rubber rings for seals, A jar from which 
the liquid leaks out will leak air ajid let bacteria in. With tin 
containers, the cap is soldered or sealed tight. The sealing wax used 
for catsup bottles may be used for cans. 

Containers for jellies and preserves are not made air tight, 
but are sealed with paraffin to keep mold from forming. This use 
of paraffiji is satisfactory, and is all that is necessary, as the large 
amount of sugar used in the preserving makes tlie growth of bacteria 
impossible. Salting and pickling preserves the food without any seal- 
ing other than to keep the mold away. Bacteria do not grow in a 
salt medium. 

Wash and wipe dry all empty glass jars and covers before putting 
away; fit covers to the jars, and put them away together, so as to 
save time in the canning season. Old rubbers often become soft 
and stretchy, and are one of the cliief causes of fruit spoiling. 
Always use new ones or tested old ones. To test, press the ring of 
rubber into a fold, then reverse fold in exactly the same place. A 
good ring will not crack. 

To reduce the expense of purchasing containers, dry as much 
food as possible. 

Stone jars or crocks are xised for storing eggs in water glass 
or liquid sodium silicate. The eggs must be clean, but unwashed. 
Water glass is purchased in pound bottles as a syrupy liquid, and 
used in the proportion of one pound of liquid glass to ten quarts 
of cooled boiled Avatcr, which is poured over the eggs. 

GARBAGE STORAGE 

Garbage Containers. — Garbage containers should be water- 
tight, vermin-proof, and have such tight-fitting covers that it is 
impossible for dogs and cats to push them off. In the winter it is 
desirable to keep the contents from freezing ; for this reason, wooden 
pails are sometimes used, but they will never be ^Droof against leaking 
or freezing, and have many disadvantages. Heavy galvanized pails 
are the most common, and, fitted with tight covers, are serviceable. 

Enamelled pails make the best indoor garbage cans, as they are 
easily cleaned, and are more sightly if kept in the kitchen ; but as 
they chip easily they are not suited to hard outdoor service. Some 
of the more modern enamelled waste containers are made with a foot 



STORAGE 



219 



lever which will raise the cover, leaving the hands free to empty the 
garbage. These containers were first made for hospital waste 
receivers, but they are especially good in the small kitchen, where 
the housewife does her own work. It is a good plan to liave a pail 
for the house, because it will 
eliminate much wasted time 
and effort in walking to the 
back porch or to the back gate 
Avith every little bit of waste. 
It is unsanitary to keep waste 
in an uncovered pan, waiting to 
be emptied, as such storage of 
garbage is apt to draw house- 
hold pests, such as flies, ants, 
and roaches. By way of disin- 
fecting the garbage, or attempt- 
ing to make it distasteful to 
vermin, several of the cans are 
made with sifters in their lids. 
The disinfectant or insecticide 
is put into the cover, and the 
jar of putting on the cover 
shakes out a little powder on 
to the contents of the can. It 
is a better principle to keep the 
can clean, and empty the con- 
tents often. 

One type of garbage con- 
tainer which is non-freezing in 
ordinary weather and proof 
against animals is set into the ground (Fig. 135). A cement well 
is built to receive the garbage container. A foot lever raises the 
cover of the well and a bail handle attached to the vessel is always 
on the outside of the pail, making it possible to lift the container to 
empty without any contact with the garbage. 

Garbage bags are made for garbage containers. For the house- 
wife who is doing light housekeeping and has only a little waste this 
will be satisfactory. The bags are of somewhat the same material 
as those for paper bag cooker}'' and for laundry bags in hotels. They 




Fig. 135. — Underground garbage container. 



220 



HOUSEWIFERY 



may be bought by the hundred or gross. Racks may be purchased 
to bold tbe bag in ])hico in the sink, aud as the bag is mad*' witli 
lioles tlie water drains off into the sink, Tlie bag and contents are 

disposed of together, ('ut 
circles of paper put into the 
garljage cans ar(! of great 
advantage; or a news])aper 
opened out and ])ut in with- 
out cutting often serves the 
]nirpose. They keep the can 
so that its cleaning amounts 
to very little. 

Incinerators represent a 
modern way of dis2:)0sing of 
household garl)age. A small 
incinerator was first made 
wliich fitted into a stove 
pi]u\ The plan was that the 
hot air as it passed up 
through' the flue would slowly 
evaporate the moisture from 
the waste, the housekeeper 
l)eing careful to have the 
least possible amount of 
moisture because of its great 
hindrance in carbonizing the 
garbage. After the garbage 
slowly dried, it charred, and 
then could be used as fuel. 

Incinerators are built in 
large institutions, or may be 
l)ought ready to set up like 
a stove in the kitchen of 
small houses or apartments 
(Fig. 136). The most effi- 
cient types burn, without 
odor and without smoke, a quantity of garbage at one time. Gas is 
considered the best fuel because of creating very intense heat. A 
common size of incinerator has a bushel capacity, and as they burn 




Fig. 136. — ( )ne type <if incinerator. 



STORAGE 221 

a quart or a bushel, one burning of garbage per day is all that is 
necessary. The incinerator in the kitchen is a garbage container 
as well as a garbage burner. 

In places where the collection and utilization of garbage pre- 
sents a difficulty, the incinerator is a proved solution. Its purchas- 
ing cost for the smaller home ranges from $60.00 to $75.00; its 
maintenance is not a large expense. 

Garbage Utilization. — In rural or urban districts, the garbage 
is often collected to be used as food for the pigs. This method, 
under sanitary control, is one of the best for garbage disposal. 
Sufficient stress, too, has not been laid on the value of garbage as a 
fertilizer for the garden. If it is emptied into a pit, covered with a 
thin coating of lime, and the whole left buried for two or three 
months, it becomes an excellent fertilizer for the garden. The 
saving of fat, either by the individual housewife, or its recovery 
from garbage by the community, is of the greatest importance in 
national economy, • 

SPECIAL STORAGE CLOSETS 

Broom and Cleaning Closets, — To plan for building a broom 
closet, arrange the things as they are to be stored when the closet is 
finished. Measure, and literally build the closet around them. 
The result will be that brooms and brushes with long handles will 
have a place to hang, shelves will be a proper distance apart to hold 
the jars, boxes and bottles. There will be a hook for every brush, 
the shelves and hooks will be labelled, and a drawer or two may be 
planned for clean cloths.. The closet ought to be just deep enough 
to take the sweeper or vacuum cleaner, because a deep closet is less 
likely to be kept in good order, with its contents classified. 

Broom closets should be high and narrow, and cleaning closets 
should have shelves and hooks. If the space makes it desirable, 
these two closets may be arranged separately. The idea is to have 
a special place for the various kinds of equipment so essential to good 
cleaning, and so unsightly when standing about. Besides, the 
cleaning outfit is not suitable to be put in with other things. 

Plan such a broom and cleaning closet (Fig, 137) on each floor 
for a new house, even if some of the closets are small. The larger 
closet will store those solutions, cloths, and brushes not needed every 
day. In old houses where such a closet was not planned in the 



222 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 137. — An old wardrobe converted into a housekeeping closet. Courtesy of Cornell 

University. 



biiildinp:, old wardrobes may be used, painting tliem inside with 
Avhite enamel i3aint to make them easily cleaned. White enamel 
sectional closets may be purchased for broom and brush closets. 
Such storage facilities may be purchased from kitchen cabinet 
maimers. 

Linen Closets. — Linen closets should be planned with the 



STORAGE 



223 



general idea of being able to classify and to organize the different 
sizes of sheets' and pillow slips, and to have a place for towels and 
spreads, in fact, a compartment for every class of household linen. 
It will be a help to list the various things, and then divide and space 
the shelves to hold each kind of linen. 

In some houses, the housewife sees fit to combine linen storage 
with a se^nng and mending 
room. This is especially de- 
sirable when the family is large. 
A bin or drawer, or better, sev- 
eral drawers permitting classi- 
fication of the material waiting 
to be mended, is a help. 

As the linen closet needs 
to be especially free from dust, 
it should have either a tight- 
fitting door of its own, or better 
still, should have some cover 
provided for the shelves. As 
piles of the linen material are 
heavy to lift, the shelves may 
have drop fronts (Figs. 138 and 
139), that is, fronts hinged so 
that they drop down when 
opened, which will give the 
cleanliness of drawers with the 
convenience of shelves. These 
shelves make it easier for the 
housekeeper to take account of 
stock. 

There is quite a difference 
of opinion among housekeepers 
as to whether the stock of 

supplies be used in rotation, by always drawing from the bottom 
and putting the clean on top, or whether a set of three or four 
of each typo of linen be in constant use until worn out. On the 
whole, the former seems more desirable, as some fabrics deteriorate 
with age. 

Medicine Closets. — It would seem wiser if the housekeeper 
could plan her medicine closet for some part of the house other 




Fig. 138. — Linen closet. Drop fronts 
acting as shelves — more efficient than drawers, 
as they keep the linen equally clean, and it is 
more easily sorted and counted. 



224 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 139. — Lineu closet with 



3d arrangement of drawers and shelves^very suitable for 
a hall. 



than the liathroom. A good place is a shallow closet off the hall 
near the housekeeper's room. Here it is of service to all, without 
the disadvantage of heing in the bathroom. It helps also to piit 
medicines in a special place, so that there is less likelihood of run- 
ning the risk of using lotions for medicines and vice versa. 

For the medicine case, a shallow closet with narrow shelves is 
desirable, so that the medicine case can be like the apothecary's 



STORAGE 



225 



shop with single rows of bottles (Fig. 140), each with its label 
in sight. As many medicines keep best in the dark, the door of this 
closet should have a mirror or wood panel rather than plain glass. 

Some housekeepers think it wise to get a set of standard drug- 
gists' display bottles, small and larger sizes, with glass stoppers 
and permanent etched labels, and keep medicines in them. They 
give a very attractive appear- 
ance to the closet. It is wise to 
keep poisons like carbolic acid 
on a shelf by themselves iu 
bottles of an unusual shape, 
or with a rough outside finish, 
so tbat if one went to tbe closet 
in the dark, attention would be 
instantly attracted. Also have 
a shelf for prescription bottles 
which may accumulate in large 
families; they should not be 
kept indefinitely. 

In houses where no pro- 
vision was made for a medicine 
closet, either wooden or metal 
closets may be purchased. 
These can be screwed to the 
wall, and will give good service. 

Emergency cases or kits are prepared by being fitted out with 
bandages, gauze, scissors, tweezers, and the various needs for emer- 
gencies. They range in size and corresponding cost from small 
pocket cases to wall closets of the medicine closet size and efficiency. 




Fig. 140. — A medicine closet. 



LIST OF MEDICAL 
JiJquipment : 

Absorbent cotton 
Atomizer 

Bandages — 2 sizes 
1-inch 
3-inch 
Clinical thermometer 
Corks — new; different sizes 
Eye cup 

Empty clean bottle 
Gauge 

Hot-water bag 
Icebag 

15 



EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES 
Graduated glass 

teaspoons 

ounces 
Medicine dropper 
Medicine glass 
Nasal douche 
Old linen 

Piece of clean flannel 
Safety pins — 2 sizes 
Surgeon's plaster 
Syringe 
Tweezers 



226 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Supplies: 
Arnica 

Aromatic spirit of ammonia 
Bicarlx)nate of soda 
Boracic acid 
Camphor 
Carbolic acid 
Cold cream 
Collodion 
Glycerine 
Hydrogen peroxide 
Iodine 



Laxative tablets 

Listerine 

Menthol tube 

Oil of peppermint 

Preparation for burns 

Quinine 

Salt — >^psom or llochelle 

Smellin*^ salts 

Turpentine 

Vaseline 

Witch hazel 

Zinc ointment 



Bathroom, Closet and Equipment. — The bathroom should be 
complete in its furnishings, and to make it so, there should bo 
plenty of racks for towels; hooks for clothing; holders for glasses, 
sponge, tooth brushes and soap ; a glass shelf ; and a mirror. Be- 
sides these, a tub seat for a foot bath ; a stool low enough to be used 
as a slipper chair; and a rug which is easily cleaned, not injured 
by water, and comfortaljle for the bare feet, add comfort and con- 
venience. A crash bath mat or a cork mat to be used just when 
stepping from the bath will keep the rug in better condition. 

Bathroom Closet. — If the medicine closet is placed in some 
other part of the house, the l)athroom closet may then be shelved 
and divided more as a toilet closet ready to hold such toilet articles 
as soaps, tooth pastes, extra toilet paper, towels and wash cloths. 
There could be a small compartment for nasal and eye douches, 
and perhaps a shelf for various washes such as listerine, peroxide, 
and the usual home remedies which all the family use. Tooth 
brushes are better in the air, so put the holders outside of the closed 
closet. 



Equipment : 

Bath brush 
Bath mat 
Bathtub brush 
Clothes brush 
1.0 Dental floss. 

Drinking glasses 
Flush-closet cleaner 
Hand brush 
Matches 
Nail brush 
Scissors 

Scrubbing brush 
Shaving outfit 

razor 

strop 



i-.> s- 



/Ui 



Shoe dressing 
Shoe polisli pad 
Soap rack 
Sponge 
Sponge rack 
Surgeon's plaster 
Toilet paper 
Tooth brushes 
Towels 

bath 

hand 
Wash cloths 



STORAGE 227 

Supplies : 

Alcohol ' ' Pumice 
Bay rum ^ "^ Scouring powder 
. ~ Bicarbonate of soda -a T Shaving cream or soap 
.' "oc? Cold cream 3 ^J^ Soap 
' ^- Hair tonic c- 9 ^oap powder 
Hand lotion ^ ^ ^ Toilet ammonia 
"^ ' Hydrogen peroxide Toilet Avater 
- ' Iodine -i Talcum powder 
' Listeriiie Tooth wash 
_Porcella or whitinff — —Witch hazel 

Shoe-cleaning Outfit. — Cleaning oi shoes is often done out of 
the house ; but if they are to he cleaned and polished at home, one 
needs an outfit of a cleaning brush, a daubing brush, and a polishing 
brush. These are bulky enough to require a box, which takes up 
considerable room. There may be a difference of opinion as to 
where this cleaning work should be done. If the bathroom is large 
enough, there is no reason why the cleaning should not be done there. 
If the box is the usual blackening box, it has a carpeted top, and 
may serve as a seat. 

In houses where back hallways are commodious, that may seem 
a better choice, because the time required to clean shoes may mean 
that the bathroom is in use too long for the comfort of other mem- 
bers of the family. 

Tool Closet. — A closet or chest of tools should be provided 
with a work bench. A list of desirable items follows: Awl; brass 
hooks ; brass rings ; chisel — cold, wood ; emery paper ; gimlet ; glue ; 
hammer ; hatchet ; nails, several sizes ; oil can ; paint brushes ; picture 
hooks; picture wire; pliers; punch for leather; sandpaper; saw; 
screw eyes; screws, several sizes; screw driver; shears, heavy; 
steel wool ; tacks, several sizes and kinds ; tack puller ; upholstery 
tacks ; wire ; wire cutter ; wrench. 

CLOTHING STORAGE 

Hangers. — Those garments which are in frequent use will keep 
their shape better if hung on coat and skirt hangers. The coats 
should be buttoned to keep the fronts from sagging. Skirts will hang 
much better if clamped by the band in a skirt hanger. If one is 
travelling, or is without sufficient hangers for coats, some may be 
made for coats and dresses by rolling newspapers tightly and tying 
in the middle of the roll with a string or tape, or in an emergency 



228 HOUSEWIFERY 

M'ith a handkercliief. i\lako a looj) to go over the hook. Half of a 
wooden l)arr('l lioop, wouiul with strips of cloth and suspended with 
a tape in tlie middle, is an excellent hanger. Two safety pins fast- 
ened in each end of a folded skirt hand will hold the skirt in good 
shape. 

Dress garments for l)oth men and women, as well as other s]ipcial 
clothing, will ha\(> snitahle protection if slipped into an old night- 
dress, or a caml)ric or percale slip, or cover bag made for the pur- 
pose. The material slionld be light so that its weight will not crush 
soft laces and dress fabrics. The sleeves may be stuffed with tissue 
paper. 

To Put Away Clothing. — Tiie first essential in storing cloth- 
ing is cleanliness ; therefore all spots should be removed, especially 
from woolens. Muslins and linens should be washed, not starched, 
and left rough dry. Silks when possil)le should be rolled. The 
thoroughly clean garment should l^e packed in moth-proof con- 
tainers, which range all the way from tight newspaper wrappings, 
and sheets of tar paper, to tar-paper bags and cedar chests. Pepper, 
tar balls, camphor, cedar chips, or a combination of cedar, camphor, 
and tar, such as is sold in packages, are usually enclosed with gar- 
ments as an extra precaution. The object of these materials is 
to keep out moths and other insects, as they are pungent and irritat- 
ing to the air passages of the insect. 

In wrapping clothing, the essential point is to overlap the wrap- 
ping's to avoid having cracks. This may be done by interweaving 
sheets of newspaper so that the journey of the moth Avould be 
decidedly roundabout. NewspajDer caps can be fitted over the ends, 
and then when tied tightly one has a bundle which may be con- 
sidered safe. Packages, boxes, and even closets, can be sealed with 
strips of paper. This is advisable in houses where, for some un- 
known reason, there is much trouble with moths. In city homes 
where one is especially limited for room, it may seem advisable to 
send large pieces such as furs and rugs away to be put in cold 
storage. The cold storage of clothing is like the cold storage of 
food — the temperature so low (3-i degrees) that bacterial life is 
inactive. 

Shoes, when not in use, should be stored where there is a 
circulation of air, and should be put away clean and dry (Fig. 141). 
Leather will resist a certain amount of water, but needs to be dried 



STORAGE 



229 



carefully in order to maintain its pliability. If it is dried too 
close to heat, as is so often done with shoes, the leather becomes 
hardened and parched beyond repair. Leather dries in the air, 




Fig. 141. — Clothing storage, with special place for shoes. 



and needs redressing with some oil mixture. This is especially 
so with shoes that have hard wear. 

Keep shoes in shape by stuffing with paper, or by using a shoe 



230 HOUSEWIFERY 

tree ; a corset steel will make a good siioe-tree substitute. Two pairs 
of shoes worn alternately will wear longer than if they are Avom 
consecutively. 

Clothing Storage Closet or Boxes. — Moths and other small 
])ests, such a,s silver fish and hufTalo l)Ugs, may do great damage 
to clothing, Ijlankets, etc., when in storage. Often the housekeeper 
stores these articles in old trunks that perhaps have served their 
first use for travelling. This kind of storage seems satisfactory 
because the trunk affords a means of locking up the extra material ; 
but the disadvantage of such an old tnmk is that it may not be 
tight enough to be vermin-proof. Special chests, either cedar lined 
or all cedar, furnish a much better means of storage. They are 
usually tongued and grooved, so the cracks are virtually sealed. 
The cover has a heavy molding and when in place puts the contents 
into a closed and sealed box. 

Closets in the attic or top floor are often plaimed on a large 
scale especially for summer storage of woolens. These are sometimes 
cedar lined, have sealed floors, and the door closes against a molding, 
so that when entirely packed it is possible to seal the door and thus 
make an air-tight room. None of these closets can insure proper 
care of the clothing unless the clothing is first thoroughly cleaned, 
and the closet cleaned and properly sealed. Under these conditions 
any w^ell-made closet, even if without cedar, may be a good storage 
closet. Closets have aii advantage over trunks, for they can take 
large garments, even rugs, robes and heavy coats, and suits without 
folding. It is far better, for example, to hang furs, than to fold 
tliem and pack tightly in a box. 

Sewing materials, such as extra pieces of goods, odd bits of 
trimming, hooks and eyes, buttons, tapes, and many other things 
needed for mending and marking are best stored near the sewing 
machine and its working center. This place may be in the house- 
wife's bedroom, or the nursery, but best of all in a room set aside 
as a sewing-room. This room ma}^ if necessary, be so planned that 
it makes an excellent extra guest room; but sewing work really 
demands its owai accommodations. 

Every housewife has her own ideas about storing patterns and 
left-over bits of material, but it Avould seem that had she ever tried 
shelves with hinged drop-fronts (like a linen closet) or drawers, she 
would not consider bags. With bags, too often the whole contents 



STORAGE 



231 



must be emptied to find the thing desired. If a case of small and 
shallow drawers were built on one side of the room, they would 
furnish exeellerit storage for all sewing materials that are small but 
can be so easily classified. In a chest of larger drawers can be 

kept pieces of materials, trim- 

mings, bolts of belting and ■^ 
braid. Besides these, there is 
needed at least one drawer for 
collecting garments for mend- 
ing, and another for stockings 
for mending. 

Sewing cabinets (Fig. 1^'^), 
tables, and baskets are good in 
a small way, but if a house- 
keeper is to do much sewing, 
altering and mending, she will 
need more storage room. An 
old chiffonier will serve the 
purpose well for the larger 
things, one drawer being par- 
titioned off to make bins for 
the small necessities. Boxes 
of different sizes will ser^'e as 
bins, or there may be made 
many small partitioned spaces 
(perhaps b}' the man of the 
house), which will give addi- 
tional chance for dividing and 
classifying sewing supplies. 
Wire nails one inch long, driven 
at regular intervals in the 
bottom of a drawer, will keep 

spools in order ready for instant use, because the size of thread is 
sho-ma. (For Sewing Supplies, see chapter on Supplies, page 143.) 

STORAGE OF ARTICLES OF PERSONAL USE 

There are many personal articles of more or less daily use about 
the house, the convenient care of which is a problem. Such articles 
as books, magazines, music records, athletic goods illustrate this 



Fig. 142. — Design for a sewing supply 
cabinet. Designed by Mrs. Caroline R. 

Wadhams. 



232 HOUSEWIFERY 

problem. Mucli of the daily work of the home consists of putting 
these thin<is in order. There are two parts to the solution of this 
problem: one part is to provide a regular place for keeping such 
things; the other is training children and older persons, as far as 
that is practicable, to put things back after using them. Two 
storage problems in this field are j)rosented : music and athletic 
goods. 

Music cabinets can be bought or made for storing sheet music, 
phonograph records, and player piano rolls. So much music is 
bound with only a paper back that shelves seem more suitable than 
racks on which the music must stand book fashion. Have many 
shelves close together rather than two or three'far apart, for then 
fewer sheets may be stored in each section. The music is easier to 
find, and can. be classified according to kind, or to author. Many find 
it wise to l;)ind up sheet music with twenty-five or more sheets in a 
cloth book-binding, with an index page. Phonograph records are 
conveniently kept in albums. 

Sport or athletic goods are usually to be used out of doors, 
so it is better to plan a good closet for such things on the first floor 
or in the basement, or perhaps off the vestibule. They need to be 
kept dry and clean, and the space should be provided with hooks 
to hang tennis rackets and special clothing, shelves to lay gloves 
and nets, and small drawers or boxes to hold balls and other small 
articles. 

TO CLOSE THE HOUSE 

The house itself should be thoroughly cleaji, so clean that 
there is no chance for particles of dirt and dust to attract vermin. 
All portieres should bo taken, down, Ijrushed and ]3ut away from 
dust and moths. The lace or net curtains should be washed and 
left rough dry ready to be starched, stretched and finished. Bureau 
drawers should be gone over, woolens aired and jDut away from moths, 
and left in order. 

To Store Silver. — ^AYlien storage of silver is spoken of, one 
usually pictures a safe deposit vault; but whether stored there or 
in the house, the housewife should take some special precaution to 
avoid scratching. Of recent years the silversmith has delivered 
silver in cases or in canton flannel bags. It behooves the house- 
keeper to keep these cases and bags, because of the great 2:)rotection 
they offer in the storing of silver, whether it is placed in the side- 



STORAGE 



233 



board from one special function to another, or stored away in a 
chest or vault. 

If the housewife has no such cases, there can easily be made or 
purchased special bags (Fig. 143), to fit the different pieces of 
silver; or one may cut squares which may be used for wrapping 
each piece. The jewelers use red, gray, or green canton flannel, 




Fig. 143. — Storage of silver. The storage bags are of canton flannel. The drawers are lined 

with canton flannel or velvet. 



not white, because the chemical that has bleached the wliite canton 
flannel often causes the silver to darken. Cases should be made 
for flat silver with separate pocket sections for each piece, so that 
when the small pieces are rolled there is a layer of canton flannel 
between pieces; with tape sewed to the case, it makes possible a 
neat, compact roll. If the drawer, chest, or bag has in it a few 
pieces of gum camphor, the tarnish will not form so soon. 



234 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Rugs sliould l)e cleaned, and if they are not to be in use I'or 
some time, they shoukl be rolk'd, and put away as woolens, liolling 
rather than folding will prevent creases. In homes where there 
are many line rugs, they may conveniently be wrapped and left on 
the floor in one of the rooms, without carrying up or downstairs. 
This does not afford any special safety against fire, so it is often 
considered an economy to have valuable rugs cleaned by the expert 

cleaner and placed in cold storage, in a 
fireproof storage Avarehouse. 

Upholstered furniture should have 
a thorough brushing and beating with a 
soft beater, or should be cleaned with 
a vacuum cleaner — a more thorough 
method. The furniture should be cov- 
ered with dust sheets and paper, too, 
as a special precaution against moths. 
Beds should be left well aired, un- 
nuide, and with the pillows covered with 
a clean sheet. 

Pictures and Chandeliers. — Place 
fine nets or muslin over the pictures 
that have no glass, as is usual Avitli oil paintings, and over 
those that have gilt frames. Lemon oil, or any very thin oil, may 
be wiped over the gilt chandeliers a.nd brass bedsteads, as it prevents 
the shellac from hardening and cracking, or perhaps peeling off, and 
rust s]iats from forming on the unprotected metal. 

Cereals and Food Containers. — If the house is to be closed for 
a long pi'viod, it is wise to empty out such foods, and leave the 
containers empty after a thorough scalding and airing. Should 
cereals be kept for a short time when the house is closed, be sure 
that the containers are tightly closed. Put candles and matches in 
tight tin boxes. 

Stoves may be treated with oil, or may be well blackened ; the 
latter should be done so well that the blacking becomes really an 
enamel coating. Gas stoves should be left with a coat of black enamel 
stove paint, a fireproof kind which is made especially for stoves. 

Windows. — Papers placed in the Avindows before closing will 
tighten the cracks and prevent the sifting in of dust. A little light 
is good ; but a window with no shutter or shade exposes wallpaper. 



Fig. 144. — Racks for window 
screen storage. Courtesy of 
Charles E. White and Ladies 
Home Journal. 



STORAGE 235 

rugs, and all furnishings to an unnecessary fading from the effect 
of the sunlight. 

Window screens should be taken out, cleaned, wiped with oil 
or kerosene and stored in a dry place (Fig. 14-i). 

Rubber goods deteriorate very rapidly in heat and sunlight, 
therefore they should be kept in a cool, dark place. Where two 
thicknesses of rubber are likely to stick together, they should be wiped 
as dry as j^ossible, or hung to dry, and dusted with talcum powder. 
If oil has been used with rubber, whether a syringe bag or auto- 
mobile tire, it must be entirely removed, or a soft spot will form in 
the rubber. Kerosene dissolves rubber ; if used to clean, it, as in the 
case of a wringer, the kerosene should be washed off immediately. 

Iron and steel should be wiped over with kerosene or sweet oil, 
using always a liquid oil rather than lard or heavy grease. A salty 
grease like kitchen fat will produce rust and should not be used. 

Flat-irons are best cleaned and waxed, even to their handles, and 
then wrapped tightly in newspaper. 

Electric Motors. — All motors such as may be found on the 
washing machines, ironers, vacuum sweepers, should be stored where 
it is ver}^ dry; it is wise to take them out of a cellar or basement 
and put them in the upper part of the house. Motors that have 
absor])ed moisture will spark and cross circuit, and to overcome the 
difficulty "wdll have to be sent to be rewound, a renewal that may cost 
ten dollars or more. 

Plumbing. — All flush closets and traps under wash basins and 
other fixtures should be thoroughly flooded Adth strong soap suds, 
carbolic acid water, or hot washing soda solution. Soda is most 
generally used because the housekeeper is familiar with it. It is 
to be used in the proportion of one to two pounds of soda to a gallon 
of water. If this is done at the last, l)efore leaving the house, it 
will mean that this soda water has not only gone down the pipes, but 
that some of it has remained in the traps. In order that this water 
in the trap under basins may not evaporate during the absence from 
the house, the stoppers may be put into the waste openings in the 
basins; but never do this unless the water is shut off at the main 
inlet pipe. This will prevent any chance of a flood by a sudden 
forcing of the faucet. Another way to prevent evaporation is to 
paste a heavy paper cover over the tops of the basins ; but the best 
way is to pour about one-half cup of sweet oil into each trap. 



23G 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Oil should also be put into flush claset traps. This will float on the 
water that is in the trap, act as a seal, and ])revent evaporation. 
Be sure that the house inlet pipe is turned off and the house pij^es 
drained, so that no one can draw water, or no faucet be forced open 

by pressure ivom. tlie main, 
and so that a broken pipe, as 
nn'.ijlit occur in the winter, 
could not flood the house. 

TO OllGAXIZE STORAGE 

Tags and Labels. — Food 
containers, all packages whose 
contents are not self-evident, 
and especially every medicine 
bottle, should be carefully 
labelled. It saves time and 
insures proper use; lack of 
labels with medicine may lead 
to serious consequences. 

The housekeeper will find 
in various stationers' stores 
labels and tags of appropriate 
shape and size, and often 
specially designed for various 
household uses (Fig. 145). 
Books of household labels are 
a convenience because they are 
printed, and save writing the 
names. Key tags for closets, 
larger tags for jugs and boxes, 
and even little metal holders 
which can be attached to the 
drawers, are obtainable in the 
market. It will be found the 
greatest saving to purchase the 
best kind of tags, write names 
plainly, co^•er tlie names with shellac to preserve them ; and then 
to take time to organize and label all containers, shelves, closets, 
and drawers, whose contents can be better controlled thereby. 




Fig. 14." 



'\ anuus kinds of labeLs tor tlilTer- 
eiit needis. 



STORAGE 237 

Filing Boxes. — Filing, pamphlet, and storage boxes may be 
purchased in various sizes and shapes, and are without doubt th€ 
best way to classify and tabulate all such things as business papers, 
receipted bills, photographs, clippings, and special copies of maga- 
zines and newsiaapers. 




Fig. 146. — Housekeeper's desk. 



Card Catalogs. — The card catalog method of filing informa- 
tion is most convenient. The cards are quite inexpensive if bought 
in hundred lots, and by means of several boxes with thumb index 
tabs, one may have an effectively organized set of helpful references. 
Addresses are best kept this way ; recipes are well arranged by divid" 



238 HOUSEWIFERY 

ing into various sections such as soups, meat, salad, etc. Housewives 
who have used tlie card catalog method often arrange their budget 
and expense records on cards ; some even list the winter and summer 
storage together with the type of article, and keep account of sup- 
])lies and materials, together with the cost, purchased in a year; 
cards also serve to take account of stock in large supply closets. 
The small 3 x 5-inch cards and the larger o x 8-inch cards are both 
desirable. 

Slips of paper about 3x5 inches in size, arranged in alphal)etical 
order and kept cither in a box, or in groups in envelopes with a 
group label on the envelope, make a very inexpensive way of using 
the card record system. 

Business Desk. — The housewife should have a business-like 
desk for her Ijusiness books, records, papers, and perhaps a type- 
writing machine, as Avell as a place to sit and write. The desk 
drawers will furnish most convenient storage (Fig. 146). 

Small closets, perhaps in a panel in the woodwork of the library, 
den, or hall, will make excellent storage space for writing paper, 
pencils, ink, glue, blotters, etc. 

Wrapping paper and string are wanted in so many places 
that it seems wise to plan several small storage places in different 
parts of the house. Drawers have been used successfully, but l:)ecause 
it is a compact way, suitable for the needs of doing up bundles, a 
paper and string bag has proved very satisfactory. Instead of mak- 
ing the usual bag d^a^\^l up with a drawstring, a shaped bag is more 
convenient. One and one-half yards of cretonne will not only 
make such a bag, but will allow 'for a pretty matching of the pattern, 
even if the pattern is large. Any plain material will cut to better 
advantage but may not be so decorative. A roll of wrapping paper 
and a ball of string, arranged as in stores, may be placed at some 
convenient point in the house, as in the mending or sewing room, 
or in a large kitchen. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. Draw a diagram to show how your kitchen table may be made into a 

kitchen cabinet for your home kitchen. 

2. Plan a linen closet. 

3. How may labels be attached to glass and tin containers? 

4. Make a list of contents to be put on door of the closet containing tools. 



STORAGE 239 

5. Make a diagram of a cellar showing best places for fruit and vegetable 

storage, 
(i. What rules should be observed in putting away clothing? 
7. How would you store curtains through the summer? 

REFERENCES 

Childs, Georgia B., The Efficient Kitchen, McBride, Nast & Co. 

Frederick, Christine, The New Housekeeping. Doubleday, Page & Co. 

MacLeod, Sarah, Handbook of Ci^eantng. Harper & Bros., New York. 

Taber, C. W.. The Business of the Household. J. B. Lippincott Com- 
pany. 

White. Charles Successful Homes and How to Build Them. Macmillan 
Co. 



CHAPTEK IX 

CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS, BEDS, BATH- 
ROOM, KITCHEN, METALS 

A CLEAX hoiKso is a great joy, is a sanitary necessity, and reflects 
credit on the housekeeper, provided she has her work so organized 
that she does not spend her entire time and strength doing it. Time 
and effort are the real test. When the housekeeper makes a study 
of this department of her l)usiness, she finds lahor-saving tools and 
many short cuts in method possihlo, which give as good results, 
sometimes l^etter than the old way, and accomplish tlie work in 
half the time. Labor-saving tools are not necessarily tools with 
much mechanism, or a motor to do tlie work, while the house- 
keeper reads or visits; they are often hand tools which are fitted 
to the task they are to perform. A soft, spongy, rough-weave dish 
cloth is no more costly than a piece of smooth towelling, but is a 
great deal better dish cloth. The rougher material av ashes and 
wipes better. It is only a question of getting the round peg in 
the round hole. Cost in money is really little, but the real cost 
is in mental exercise. Let the housewife read, investigate, and be 
willing to tiy a new method until she proves that it is better or 
worse than her own. 

Under Equipment and Labor-saving Appliances, page 84, has 
been discussed the requirements of good tools, suitability for their 
work l)y their shape, size, and ease with which they may be handled 
and cleaned. But what saving is the tool if the method is poor? 
The " head will save the heels " by studying methods of work ; and 
that is the problem of this chapter on Cleaning. 

Cleaning involves a mechanical rubbing, often combined with 
the chemical dissolving of dirt, grease, or oxides of metals as is seen 
in the tarnish of metals. It means gathering dust into a cloth 
without spreading it ; washing with soap and water to cut the grease 
which holds the dirt ; rubbing with oils and polishes and abrasive 
materials to produce a bright, shiny surface. 

Everything in the house must be cleaned, and many tilings 
have finally to be renovated (see chapter on Cleaning and Eenovat- 
240 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 241 

ing, page 273. The cleaning of one room is not particularly differ- 
ent from another; it is therefore best to consider how to cleaji the 
different groups or types of furniture or furnishings. In that way 
the cleaning of the whole house may be studied. The short cuts 
of experience are often the greatest time and labor savers, and are 
not evidences of slackness, but of efficiency. Often the shortest 
v>ay is the best. 

CLEAXIXG OF EOO]MS 

General Rules for Cleaning a Room. — Dust and remove or 
]nit under cover small articles and bric-a-brac. 

Dust or brush furniture; if small, remove from the room, if 
large, cover with a dust sheet. 

Shake and brush curtains and hangings; remove from the 
room, or pin in dust bags. 

Roll up small rugs and remove from the room to clean ; if large, 
sweep and fold back the edges towards the center. 

Dust ceiling and walls. 

Dust window shades. 

Clean radiators. 

Dnst closet floor. 

Dust floors. 

Dust doors, baseboard, and other woodwork to the floor and base- 
board. 

Clean windows. 

Clean chandelier. 

Wash globes. 

AYash mirrors. 

Wipe pictures. 

Polish floor. 

Return rugs, furniture and bric-a-brac. 

Polish brass and silver unless all are done on a special day. 

The question arises. Shall all things that can be moved, be taken 
from the room, or shall the dusted bric-a-brac stay on some cleaned 
table or bed, covered, and only the small pieces of furniture that 
stand on the floor, in the way, be removed ? Time allowance will 
perhaps answer the question. If a maid has many rooms to clean 
in a specified time, she cannot take everything out. A tray for 
small articles will help a great deal; and to cover after dusting 
will also save time, because less dust gets on the furniture or fur- 
16 



242 



HOUSEWIFERY 



nishinti-s. For a thorough cleaning (Fig. 147) remove as much 
from the room as possible, because in the end much handling is 
avoided, and besides there is tlie handicap of having to work around 
things. On cleaning the things that are left in the room, various 
routines of work may be employed, but a good general rule is to 
dust high things first, then lower ones, taking everything in order. 
In a bedroom, the bed brings in a different problem; but if the 
mattress and springs are brushed, and the bed made up before the 




Fig. 147. — Room ready for sweeping. 

really dusty work is started, it can be used to hold small ornaments, 
and then kept thoroughly covered during the cleaning process. 

Dust covers should be freely used during the cleaning process. 
(See Cleaning Kijuipment, page 120.) 

Dustless Sweeping.' — In sweeping try to keep from flirting the 
broom, as this throws the dust about unnecessarily. There are sev- 
eral " dustless " ways of sweeping, by moistening the broom and 
shaking out all the water before sweeping; l^y sprinkling damp, 
left-over tea leaves or bits of moistened paper on the carj^et, be- 
cause these toss ahead of the broom and moisten and gather up the 
dust ; by spreading moist sawdust on tile or Imoleum floors ; and by 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 243 

using a broom bag over the broom, or some prepared dustless sweeper 
on wood floors. The moistened broom is the least work, but unless 
one is very careful the broom is used too wet, and soon the dust 
is made into mud which when spread by the broom dulls the carpet 
or wood floor. The dampened paper is a cheap, satisfactory method 
and does no harm to the rug or carpet. Sprinkle a newspaper as 
clothes are sprinkled, and then tear into bits and scatter over the 
floor ; it need not be over the whole floor, but here and there in small 
quantities. In homes where the vacuum cleaner is used daily or 
weekly, much dust and dusting have been eliminated. There is less 
shaking of rugs and almost no whipping of upholstery and drapery, 
Yacuum cleaners will not, however, remove dust films from wood- 
work, or haze from windows and mirrors, or dust from ornaments, 
so some cleaning still remains to be done by hand. (For vacuum 
cleaners see Cleaning Equipment, page 132.) 

Dustless Sweepers. — (See Cleaning Equipment, page 121.) 

Dusting. — A good duster is any soft, clean, non-scratching and 
non-linting cloth, A good dusting stroke is one that wipes and at 
the same time gathers the dust into the cloth. Cheesecloth is a 
good material for all kinds of dusting ; old silk makes a soft duster, 
but cheesecloth, if clean, will do as well. (For cleaning cloths, see 
Cleaning Equipment, page 118.) 

Dustless dusting is quite like dustless sweeping. A soft cloth, 
one that wrings dry easily, may be wrung out of very hot water, 
shaken to let out the steam, and it will make an excellent dustless 
duster. A tablespoon of kerosene added to a quart of hot water, from 
which the duster is wrung, will make a duster as satisfactory as the 
more expensive ones for dusting all wood surfaces. Of course, no 
oily duster should be used on wallpaper or wherever the oil may 
make a mark. 

To Wipe Walls. — Either painted or papered walls need wip- 
ing, and because a soft duster gathers dirt without scratching, plan 
to use a long-handled, soft hair brush or outing flannel bag on a 
broom. Wool brushes are sold for the purpose, but they are expen- 
sive, need a great deal of care to wash and keep clean, and their effi- 
ciency does not warrant the time and effort cost. 

Wallpaper may be easily marred by hard rubbing. Use a soft, 
perfectly clean cloth, like outing flannel, and rul) with a very even 
stroke and very little pressure. Rubbing hard blurs the pattern^^ 



244 HOUSEWIFERY 

wipes ofT o'ilt.^ and often roughs the paper so that a spot results. 
One method for spotted or sooty paper is that used with soft stale 
bread by cutting away the bard sciatchy crust, and using a fresh 
part of the inside of the loaf as fast as it soils. Putty erasers 
and pro]>ared starch or dough cleaners can be used, but unless one 
has much time and more patience to do it evenly, one ought not to 
begin. The results are not very satisfactory, and, too, all the cleaner 
must be removed. The starch and dough cleaners may draw ants, 
flies, silver fish, and small insects that feed on flour or wheat. Putty 
wallpaper cleaners ma}^ be bought in cans. 

Grease spots are hard to remove from wallpaper. A warm 
iron and blotting paper is one way to absorb grease ; but one that is 
better, in that it will not change the color of the paper, is to put 
on as thick a layer of fullers' earth or magnesium, or even talcum 
powder, as will stay on the upright surface. xVfter twenty-four 
hours lightly brush off the powder. Heavy rubbing will spread the 
grease that the jjowder has absorbed. Several applications will do 
much toward cleaning the paper if it does not succeed entirely. 

Oilier Wall Coverings. — Heavy, embossed paper, burlap, tapes- 
tries, and brocades, will hold dust, so the main care is a frequent 
l)rushing w^ith a hair brush, or going over them with the vacuum 
cleaner. Any very special cleaning with gasolene, or detergents, 
will end in very irregular results, and had better not be ujidertaken. 

rainted Walls. — Painted walls are- very likely to be found, at 
least in the laundry, kitchen, bathroom, and vestibules; besides, 
many bedroom and living room walls are often painted. Any 
painted wall in a room where there are grease fumes or moisture will 
soil quickly and needs to be Aviped frequently. Dull finished paint, 
especially white painted woodwork, may be cleaned with whiting 
applied AWth a cloth moistened with very hot water. Clean only a 
small space at one time, and in straight lines. Yellow soaps, and soda 
or washing powders, wdll do rapid work on cutting grease on painted 
walls, but they will yellow white paints and may change the color 
of colored paints. Washing powders may be used in cleaning painted 
walls when the walls are very dirty and greasy, and the one thought 
is to get them clean, regardless of the effect on the color. Use 
three to five tablespoons of powder to a pail of warm water. Wash 
with one cloth and wipe with another, changing for clean water 
and clean, cloths often enough to prevent streaks. Use an up and 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 245 

down motion and be sure each stroke overlaps the last and leaves 
no streaks. Enamel painted walls may be washed like a dish, 
only they require many changes of water and cloths, much perse- 
verance, and a standard for good work. If the wall is to l)e renewed 
by painting, the painter's estimate should include a preliminary 
washing, and then it should be done under the supervision of the 
housekeeper. No one wants to paint on top of dirt ; and on top of 
grease, paint will not stick. 

Culcunine trails are often used, as their first cost is much less 
than that of enamel paint. This may not in the end represent econ- 
omy, because calcimine spots easily, streaks with moisture, as steam 
condenses on the walls, and it cannot he washed or even wiped with a 
stroke hea\y enough to clean. 

Tiles. — Wall tile is usually glazed tile, and therefore is easy 
to clean l)y washing with warm soapy water. The floor tile is of the 
same material, but usually it has less glaze and is more difficult 
to clean on that account, and also because the wear of the foot 
action and the grit from the soil on shoes leaves a grimy mark. 
For tile floors, use strong soap suds applied with a long-handled 
scrub brush or a cloth mop; either tool allows pressure which a 
string mop does not give. xV strong suds for the work may be 
made by coml)ining 1 lb. washing soda with 1 lb. soap and 4 gallons 
of water. In houses or institutions where there is much tile to 
clean, this mixture may well be kept on hand ready for use. 

If there is paint on the tile, as is often the case after repainting 
walls, it may be removed by rubbing ^nth a cloth moistened with 
turpentine, or if very fresh, by yellow laundry soap and water. If 
any of the paint has dried and is hard to remove, moisten the cloth 
in turpentine and then use some abrasive cleaner; the turpentine 
softens the paint, and the scratchy material loosens it. Stains on 
floor tile are likely to happen because of the lack of glaze. Should 
the soda and water solution not remove such a stain, apply to the 
spot a dilute acid, either oxalic or hydrochloric, using two parts 
water to one part acid. The acid dissolves a little of the lime in the 
tile and produces a new clean surface. As soon as the acid touches 
the tile there will be an effervescing, which shows the dissolving 
power of the acid. Use only a little at one time and in definite 
places, then wash quickly with soapy water. Soap will stop the 
action of the acid. 



246 iioi si;\viFEi{V 

Painted floors should be wi|X3d up with clear water, without 
soap iL' j)ossible. Any soap used must bo I'rec from excess soda, and 
no was! ling powders should be used. 

Hard Wood. — Any hard-wood lloor, whether oiled or waxed or 
varnished, nnist be kept free from dust and grit if it is to be kept 
bright and shining, as grit scratches and clouds the floor. Moisture 
changes the color, oil darkens; so it is wise to keep the floor clean 
by the use of a clean soft dusting cloth. When a more thorough 
cleaning is desired, the woodwork may be wiped up with the fol- 
lowing mixture, using it much as one would use water to wash up a 
floor. T^se two pieces of cheesecloth, one for washing and one for 
wiping, and as fast as the mixture soils mix a new quantity. ]\Iix 
1 quart boiling water 
3 tablesi^oons boiled linseed oil 
1 tablespoon turpentine 

For other suggestions for Woods, see cha})ter on Cleaning and 
]\enovation, page 2S\i. 

White Enamel Wood or Metal. — Use clear lukewarm water 
and with a soft cheesecloth wipe the enamel paint. Two or three 
drops of ammonia in a jDail of water will cut the grease better than 
soap which yellows the paint. Whiting or Bon Ami may be used 
on a moistened cloth. Both of these cleaners will leave a dust, but 
the washing of the woodwork may be done between the sweeping 
and the dusting of a room. 

Care of Floor Coverings. — The floors of a room require daily 
care, Avhich is the brushing up of lint, dust fluff, thread, or perhaps 
crumbs as in the dining room. A carpet sweeper may be used 
for this, or a long-handled dustpan and a small broom. The 
expense of the last two articles is a trifle more than for the short- 
handled dustpan whicli we have, lieen accustimied to use, l)ut there 
is a great saving to the worker. 

For the weekly care of rugs, it is well to take those easily handled 
out of doors to clean. It means less dust for the worker and less dirt 
stays in the house. Eugs should be laid face down on the grass or on 
a platfoi-m, or if space does not permit, be hung on a clothesline. 
Beat with a flat rattan beater, rather than a wire or stick beater, 
which will cut fine rugs ; and then briish both sides. To keep from 
marring the rug, hang it wrong side down over the clothes line. This 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 247 

method will give the rug less wear than to shake it, which tears and 
frays the ends. 

Carpets, fortunately, are not so much, used as they once were. 
They reiiresented so much work, that, as has heen said in the chapter 
on Furnishings, most carpets have been cut into strips or rugs. Any 
carpet, when taken up, can be cleaned like a small rug, and if too 
large to remove often, may be swept and rolled towards the center 
of the room from each side, so that as large a space as possible 
is left on all sides to clean. Any carpet or rug tacked to the floor 
needs very special care around its edges as too often that part of the 
rug may get moth-eaten. Of course, a vacuum cleaner may be used 
so frequently and easily that few rugs or carpets, large or small, 
need to be taken up. The vacuum does not harm rugs, even the fine 
ones, as much as the sand and grit are likely to do if left in the 
rug, as they gradually cut the fibers with their sharp particles. 

Matting or any jute or straw covering may be swept, but because 
of its weave it is very likely to sift dirt to the floor underneath. 
To sweep matting well aud then wipe it with cloths wrung out of 
hot water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added, should 
keep this floor covering in good condition ; the dirt beneath should 
be regularly removed, of course. 

Linoleums are made of cork, packed tile fashion on a cloth foun- 
dation, and the whole is waxed or varnished over as a to]) finish. 
Linolemu may be kept in good condition by washing with a soft 
cloth or brush, and by avoiding as far as possible the scratching of 
the surface. For a washing solution, use the best white household 
soap, or better still castile, as too much strong soda will not only 
fade the colors, but will more ot less dry out the surface fuiish. 
Linoleums have so much wear and tear from the friction of walking, 
and from the moving of tables or chairs, that they need care by 
oiling or waxing. Waxing with the wax described on page 294, under 
Table Tops, is an excellent way to keep floor linoleum in good 
condition. Linoleum is a cork composition material and quite 
porous, so the wax may be rubbed on until it sinks into the pores 
of the linoleum. This fills all the interstices between the particles 
of cork, and makes the linoleum surface a solid mass with much 
greater durability than without it. Milk, which has sometimes been 
recommended as a cleaner, gives a sticky finish and leaves a sugary 
covering on the linoleum to attract flies and insects, perhaps vermin. 



248 



HOUSEWIFERY 



If the linoleum is varnished or shellaced, wipe it with the linseed 
oil and turpentine mixture recommended for cleaning hard woods 
(page 24G). 

Radiators. — liadiators and registers are dust catchers hecause 
of their situation and construction. A small flat brush comes for 
this purpose, or a cloth may be folded on a flat stick and used as 
a substitute (Fig. 148). Wlien cleaning, put a moistened i)aper 




1 I... 14.S. — Cleaning the radiator. 

under the radiator, to catch the dust as it falls down. Registers 
are often screwed in the floors but these screws are easily removed 
and the register lifted out ; then open tlie shutter and wipe the fans 
of the register with a moistened cloth. 

Window cleaning may be well done by using paper instead 
of a cloth. This is economy to the worker, as various pieces of 
soft paper come into the house and can be easily saved for this work ; 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



249 



choose paper that does not lint. Should one prefer a cloth, choose 
one clean and free from lint. Chamois is a good cleaner but expen- 
sive at first cost, and requires care to be kept very soft and ready 
to do good work (Fig. 149). 

Various cleaning mixtures may be used -svith cither the paper or 
the cloth; clear water, or 
clear water with a few drops 
of ammonia, oi- Avith a 
little dissolved washing soda, 
about 1 tablespoon to a pail 
of water; and on very cokl 
days, the cloth may be moist- 
ened with wood alcohol. 
This last makes a most effi- 
cient cleaner, but is expen- 
sive. Soap is less satisfac- 
tory because it leaves a film 
over the surface of the glass. 
Whiting or some prepared 
cleaning paste may be used 
on Arindows. The idea is to 
let these dry and then wipe 
off the poAvder, which takes 
off the grease film, leav- 
ing the Avindows bright and 
clear. If the AvindoAvs are 
cleaned by this method it 
should be before the room 
is all cleaned, as there Avill be a great deal of dust about, especially 
close to the window on AvindoAV sills and floors. Try to clean win- 
dows Avhen the sun is not shining on them directly, as it causes 
uneven evaporation of moisture and gives a streaked surface. 

Mirrors. — In cleaning mirrors, care should be given to keep 
the Avater from the backs. This is especially true Avith the small 
hand mirrors, mounted either in silver or celluloid, because in the 
cleaning there is a chance for Avater to get in behind the glass. 
Whiting applied Avith a cloth Avhich has been moistened Avith a feAv 
drops of wood alcohol or water Avill make an excellent cleaner and 
Avill not need an abundance of water. The Avhiting method of 




Fig. 149. — Washing a window. 



250 HOUSEWIFERY 

cleaning mirrors and windows should be done before the room is 
dusted ; see cleaning of windows, above. 

Paint on Glass — Window or Mirror. — Remove by washing 
with washing soda and boiling water, or with turpentine, in the 
same way as for paint on tile. 

Piano keys are best cleaned with wood alcohol. If alcohol can 
not be used, it is best to use clear warm water, not hot, and no soap. 
Should soap be used, choose only a good white soap, as the soda in 
many household soaps will be enough to yellow the keys. 

Marble. — j\Iarble is best washed in soap and water, and wiped 
dry so as to leave no water stains. To polish marble, rub with a 
smooth piece of marble and water. Acids of any kind take off all 
polish, so one should be careful of lemon juice or any acid medicines 
and acid drinks. Even the spoon that has stirred them, unless 
rinsed, if laid on marble will be likely to destroy the polish. 

Kerosene Lamps. — Fill kerosene lamps about three-quarters 
full of oil; if entirely full it will leave no room for the expansion 
of gases, and the oil will ooze out of the screw top. With a soft 
paper wipe the wick, being careful to remove all the charred par- 
ticles. This will give a straighter wick than to cut with the scissors. 
Wash and wipe the chimney like any piece of glass (see page 248), 
and ^vith soap and water M^ash the lamp itself. By keeping the 
wick turned down in the burner when not in use, and l^y boiling 
the wick and burner in strong soap suds or soda and water at least 
once in two weeks, the strong odor so common to kerosene lamps is 
rarely present. Attend to the lamps in the morning, and then they 
are ready, for it is a bad plan to do such work after dark. 

BED ROO:^I— CLEANING AND CARE 

To Clean a Bed. — The care of the bed is one of the special 
problems which must be considered in addition to the general 
methods of cleaning rooms. 

The bed frame should be kept dusted ; if of enamel or wood, it 
may be cleaned as such ; if brass, the use of a little lemon or linseed 
oil on the cloth will do much to keep the shellac soft and prevent its 
cracking because too dry. 

Springs. — Wipe the springs Avith a soft cloth and two or three 
drops of lemon oil. To say use oil, need in no way mean to use 
enough to grease the mattress. Tf the springs are box springs, 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



251 



brush thoroughly to keep free from Just; if one has a vacumii 
cleaner it will give most satisfactory results. The springs should 
be dusted often enough to keep free from dust. 

The mattress should be brushed and beaten with a flat rattan 
beater at least once a month. The mattress should be aired every 
day and turned (Fig. 150). Turning a mattress keeps it in good 
shape and makes it wear more evenly. Each day the bedroom should 
be thoroughly aired, and at the same time the bed should be aired. 
Take all bedding off the bed, spread it over two chairs so as to keep 




Fig. 150. — Airing the bed. 



it from getting on the floor and soiling. There is no need to dangle 
bedding out of the ^dndow, for then it is likely to wipe the side of 
the house and get soiled. A good way to air the mattress is to 
stand it up against the wall or draw it over the foot-board. 

To Make the Bed. — Mattress Cover. — If one keeps a mattress 
cover on the mattress, as was suggested on page 192, it is not taken off 
except as the mattress is cleaned. 

Mattress Pad. — Sometimes this is large enough to tuck in; if 
60, it should be stretched very tight so as to be free from wrinkles. 
More often it just fits the top of the mattress, and in that case the 
sheet holds it in place (Fig. 151). 

The lower sheet is put on with the wide hem at the top and with 
the right side up. To make the bed more comfortable and also to 



252 



HOUSEWIFERY 



have the sliccts wear bettor, ]jc sure to tuck the sheet in well at the 
top am] to ]-)ut the sheet on very straight. If the suggestion that is 
given in tlie cliapior on Furnishings is followed, the housewife will 
buy her sheets enough larger than the mattress to have at least a 
half-yard to tuck in on all sides of the bed. If a lower sheet is short, 
tuck it in well at the top, and there will bo enough below to cover the 
mattress even if it does not tuck in. The hospital tuck-in of sheets 




Fig. 151. — Enamel bed witli woven wire spring, imperial edge mattress and quilted bed pad. 



can easily be used in the home, and after one becomes accustomed 
to turning in the corners of the sheets it is so easy and makes the 
bed so much better looking, thnt one wonders Avhy it has not always 
been done. 

To make the bed hospital fashion, tuck in the sheet at the bottom 
and the top, drawing it in both directions until very tight; then 
mitre the corners by bringing the corner of the sheet around the 
corner of the mattress to the sides of the bed, box fashion (Fig. 
152) ; meantime have the side part of the sheet up on the mattress 
out of the way, to drop down only after the corner is mitred. Turn 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



253 




Fig. 152. — First step in making a square ccrner. 




Fig. 153. — Second step in making a square corner. 



254 HOUSEWIFERY 

the tuck-in part of the corner under the side of the mattress (Fig. 
153), finishinj^ the mitred corner; tlien bring down the side of the 
sheet under the mattress. The lower sheet is mitred at all four 
corners, while the upper slieet and blanket are done at the foot. 
Sometimes the border on the blanket helps one to see how the fold 
is placed because the border as a guiding line goes around the foot 
of the mattress just as far as it hists. 

The Upper Sheet. — Put this on with the right side down and 
the wide hem at the top, which brings the turn-lmck of tlie sheet 
right side up (Fig. 15-i). A sheet that fits the bed well will have 
a good wide turn-back which protects the blanket. 

Blankets. — The blanket comes next to the sheet, and economy 
teaches that it' is better to cut the pair of blankets apart, bind them 
and use separately. Put the blanket on like the sheet, and when it 
fits the bed it will come up to the fold of the sheet as it is turned 
back over the blanket, about ten inches from the head of the bed 
(Fig. 155). 

The spread or counterpane is arranged differently on different 
types of beds. The wooden beds give a place to tuck in the counter- 
pane, while the cots and brass beds look better when made up so that 
less of the bed frame shows. A valance makes a pretty finish and 
usually the spread meets it in such a way that the bed looks c|uaint 
and attractive. 

The bed for a sick person is made up like any other bed that 
has the mitred corners, excejDt that in cases of severe illness, when 
the patient is quite helpless, a draw-sheet is put on top of the lower 
sheet. This draw-sheet is a strong sheet folded in half wdth hems 
together. These hems are strong enough to resist tearing and slough- 
ing down in the bed as the patient slides down (Fig. 156). Place 
this draw-sheet so it will come under the heavy part of the body as 
the patient lies in bed. Stretch it tight and tuck it well under the 
mattress. In severe cases this draw-sheet takes the place of the 
lower sheet and the lower sheet becomes more a cover to the mattress, 
not often changed, even pinned with safety pins to the corners 
of the mattress. The draw-sheet is easily changed, with less dis- 
comfort to the patient ; the necessary lifting of the patient can be 
done by two people, one at each side of the bed, making the sheet 
like a hammock. It can also be changed without lifting the patient, 
by rolling the patient first to one side of the bed, while the sheet is 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



255 




Fig. 154. — The corner finished. 




Fig. 15.5. — Blanket in place showing square corner and sheet protection. 

spread over oue-half of the bed, then to the other side of the bed 
upon the fresh sheet, which can then be stretched over the whole 
mattress. For a long sickness the bed frame may be raised on heavy 



256 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 15G. — Bed maJe with draw sheet. 




Fig. 157. — A home bed raised on blocks. Also, invalid's bed stand. 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



257 



blocks, makin,? it much easier for the nurse; Ijlocks of wood with a 
place hollowed out for the casters so that the bed will be steady are 
satisfactory (Fig. 15T). If blocks are used without a hollow in 
them, take out the casters so that the bed cannot possibly roll when 
upon the blocks. 

To Prepare Bed for Night. — To save the good clav-spread, 
take it off and fold carefully so it will be ready to go back on the 




Fig. 15S. — Preparing bed for night. 



bed in the morning looking fresh. A sheet or light Marseilles spread 
for night use may be made up under the day-spread, or a sheet may 
be spread over the blanket at night to keep it clean. It quite pays 
to do this as the blanket keeps clean much longer. Turn down the 
sheet and the blanket by turning back the corner far enough so that 
the occupant need not feel it necessary to pull the bed to pieces to get 
into it (Fig. 158). 

CLEANING OF BATHROOiM FURNISHINGS 
Care of Porcelain and Enamelled Iron. — Whether in a bath- 
tub, wash basin, or washtub, porcelain needs the same kind of care. 
If each time it is used, it is washed with soap suds, rinsed, and 
17 



258 



HOUSEWIFERY 



wiped dry, it can be kept in <^ood condition. Water leaves it 
stained by niaki]i^i; water marks, and if the water has iron in it, as it 
dries it leaves a yellow tiiit which slowly discolors porcelain. Leaky 
faucets produce iron rust staius. These stains may be rubbed off 
with lemon juice or vinegar, pronded the stain is not of too long 
standing. For what seems to be a more permanent stain, moisten 
a small wad of toilet paper with a few drops of dilute oxalic acid or 
hydrochloric acid (both poisons) and wipe the stain; then when it 
is dissolved, wash the porcelain with soapy water. The paper that 




Fig. 159. — Metal forceps for cleaning flush closet. 



has been used can be burned, or put into the toilet. To dilute 
acids, use equal amounts of acid and water; pour ihe acid info the 
irater. The stains from soiled soapy water will clean off with kero- 
sene. N"o scratchy cleaner should be used with porcelain or enamel- 
lined plumbing fixtures. The use of a gi'itty or scratchy cleaner 
produces a multitude of tiny scratches which soon look like dirt and 
wear. Scratches cannot l)e taken off porcelain. As cleaners, 
whiting or porcella, applied witli a damp cloth, Avill give the best 
results. 

Flush Closets. — A daily washing of flush closets can be done 
by a ten-cent string mop, or by soapy water in the metal forceps 
which have been made for the purpose (Fig. 159). Soap and water 
is a good sterilizer for ever\r-day work; but for occasional special 
cleanings, washing powders may be used, or dissolved soda, chloride 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 259 

of lime, or potassium permanganate. Put any of them down the 
flush closet, let stand fifteen or twenty minutes, and then flush 
thorougJily. The washing powders introduce soap and soda to- 
gether; the chloride of liine may be used directly from the can, 
or the sediment left from making Javelle water (see page 138) may 
be used as a disinfectant. 

In using potassium permanganate to sterilize flush closets, make 
up a solution in the proportion of one teaspoon of the crystals to one 
quart of water. The solution will be a rich purple color, and if it 
is to be kept, it should be carefully labelled. Potassium perman- 
ganate used in the same proportion makes an excellent floor stain ; as 
it dries, it oxidizes and turns a rich brown. 

Handles. — All handles in the bathroom — the pull of the flush 
closet, the faucet handles, the door knobs — should have special and 
frequent cleaning. The scientist tells us that the hand is a most 
important link in the transfer of disease germs. 

To Clean Combs. — Combs should be regularly cleaned in a 
sanitary way by soaking the comb in cool water to which a few drops 
of ammonia have been added. This will loosen the dirt and will 
not discolor the comb. After soaking about one-half hour, an ordi- 
nary brush like a nail brush, will clean the coml) finally. Rinse 
and wipe dry. In a less sanitary way a comb may be dry cleaned 
by a stiff brush or by one of the little cleaners that may be found 
on the market. One is made of horse hair, another of white cord, 
which may be worked back and forth between the teeth of the 
comb ; a third is a little fine steel brush which brushes the comb 
clean. If any of these cleaners are used, be careful to see that they 
are kept clean, 

CLEANING OF BRUSHES 

As hot water and strong soda soaps yellow the bristles of brushes, 
and soften them, wash brushes by shaking them up and down in 
cool water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. 
Rinse in cool water and shake out all the water possible. Stand in 
the air to dry with bristles down in such a way that the water will 
run out of the bristles away from the back. Very soft-fibred brushes 
had better be hung with bristles down to dry, as the bristles would 
spread under the weight of the back if stood to dry. This method 
of cleaning applies to every kind of brush which is used in the house. 



260 HOUSEWIFERY 

METALS 

Metals arc discolored by water sjiots, grease films from the air, 
or from food, soot, and charred food, or by the oxygen of the air 
and sulphur fumes combining with the metal, producing oxides and 
sulphides of the metal. Metals are also discolored by other chemi- 
cals ; as salt discolors aluminum. 

Saponifying the grease film is an easy way to remove that kind of 
soil. Soap and water, or dissolved wasliing soda and water, are the 
two agents commonly used. 

Friction, such as rubbing with a soft cloth or a chamois, will 
remove light discolorations and will assist the soap and water just 
as in any dish washing. Heavier friction, such as is secured l)y a 
paste of whiting with alcohol or water, rottenstone, pumice, buffing 
wheel, ashes, or sand, is needed for deeper discolorations of the 
sturdy nu'tals, and to remove dirt and grime Avliich have adhered to 
the metal. 

The solvent action of chemicals is quite an everyday way of 
dissolving oxides and sulphides of tlie metal. The method is quicker 
than the friction or saponifying method alone. Some acid foods, 
such as tomato, rhubarl), lemon, vinegar, or cream of tartar, often 
furnish enough acid and are safe to use as cleaners. Oxalic acid is 
a stronger acid, but because it is a poison it should be used with 
great care. One hesitates to ha\e such things aljout in any cleaning, 
and cleaning a cooking and a serving dish with a poison should 
mean most careful work in order to be assured that no acid remains. 
The dish should be thoroughly washed with soap and water, followed 
l)y a hot rinse, to remove the last trace of the acid. 

Concentrated oxalic acid may be bought at the drug store, or if 
the housewife prefers to buy the acid in crystal form, it is easy 
to make a concentrated solution l)y a little more tlian enough water 
to cover the crystals. Allow to stand long enough for the crystals 
to dissolve; use the liquid from this mixture. It is always a con- 
centrated solution as long as undissolved crystals remain in the 
bottom of the jar. Dilute for use by adding a given quantity of acid 
to an equal quantity of w^ater. (Th(^ acid and Housewife's IMetal 
Polish recipe given below are poisons.) 

The housewdfe should consider a numl)cr of things in cleaning 
metals. All metals should he cleaned l)y the method which means 
the least loss, the least roughening, and the least expense both as 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 261 

to time and effort, and the best color as a finish. This is especially 
true for expensive metals like gold and silver. Chemicals are in- 
clined to leave a very bright glaring metal surface, to which one may 
apply the term flat, not a rich lustre as the metal at its best should 
have. Such cleaning often means that the surface does not last so 
long. Metals, esj)ecially silver, are roughened by cleaning as the 
microscope will show ; the aluminum pan method of cleaning silver 
gives less roughening and shows the flat color tone. Weighing the 
metal before cleaning and after would be the only way to tell which 
method is the most destructive to the metal. 

With the suggestions given concerning the cleaning of all metals, 
the following directions may be used for the cleaning of special 
metals. 

Agate. — Boil in soda water to remove grease. Eub with fine 
abrasive. Wash in hot soapsuds. Wipe dry. 

Aluminum. — Wash in hot soap and water. Polish with steel 
wool, or whiting moistened with alcohol. Dilute acid may be used 
(page 94). Alkalies darken aluminum. Einse in hot water. Wipe 
dry. 

Brass. — If badly tarnished, wash in soda solution to remove 
grease. Clean with housewife's solution : 

Houseirife's Metal Polish for Brass and Copper. 
2 oz. dilute oxalic acid, y^ cup 
1 lx)X electro-silicon 
4 oz. wood alcohol, % cup 
1 pt. kerosene (1 pt. = 16 liquid oz.) 
Add the acid to the water, instead of water to acid, to avoid its sput- 
tering, ^lix tlie recipe by putting the silicon in a bottle ; add the alco- 
hol, oxalic acid, and kerosene. Shake well each time before using. 

Clean with dilute oxalic acid, or strong lemon juice or vinegar, 
and fine abrasive ; wash in plenty of water. Polish with rottenstone 
or with metal polish. Wipe dry with clean soft cloth. 

Copper. — Same as brass. 

Iron. — Boil in strong solution of soda and water to remove 
grease. Rub with any good abrasive (use newspaper instead of 
clotli). Wash in hot soapsuds. Einse in hot water. Dry while hot. 

Wrought Iron. — Eub with a soft cloth devoid of lint; use a thin 
oil as kerosene, lemon oil, or a prepared mixture, and rub thoroughly. 

Nickel.— rWash with soap and water. Polish with whiting moist- 



262 HOUSEWIFERY 

cued with alcohol, aiinnoiiia, or water. (Do not use an}' chemicals 
or coarse abrasive on nickel.) Wipe dry. 

Pewter or Britannia Ware. — I'se any ptw abrasive, as metal 
is very soft and scratc-lies easily; whitin<;" aiid oil, rottenstone and oil, 
fine steel wool and oil. Wash with hot soapsuds. Wipe dry. 

Porcelain. — For gejieral cleaning, wasli with soap and water. 
Polisli with fine powder (porcella or whiting). Wipe dry. 

For Stains. — Iron rust : dilute hydrochloric acid ; apply with soft 
cloth or tissue paper ; wash off acid with soap and water. 

Other stains: kerosene — apply with soft cloth or tissue i^aper; 
wash with soap and water ; wipe dry. 

Steel. — If greasy, clean as iron. Rub with an}^ fine abrasive 
(bath brick best) ; if knives, apply with cork or wad of paper (avoid 
soaking handles). Wash in warm soapsuds. Wipe dry. If rusty, 
rub wath oil and fine abrasive like rottenstone. 

Tin. — Place in hot soda solution for a few (3-5) minutes to re- 
move grease (longer will tend to dissolve the tin, leaving iron sur- 
face). Rub with any fine abrasive, as whiting. Wash in hot soap- 
suds. Rinse in hot water. Wipe dry while hot to prevent rust. 

Zinc. — Rub hard with whiting moistened with water or kero- 
sene. Hot vinegar may he used. Wash with hot soapsuds. Wipe 
diy. 

Cleaning Silver. — Wa.sJiing. — The careless gathering of dishes 
for dishwashing brings kitchen knives an-d forks into contact with the 
silver, and subjects it three times daily to the wear and tear of 
scratches and dents. This is most quickly discovered on silver which 
is of the severely plain pattern. The first point, then, in the care 
of silver is in careful sorting and washing. 

The best plan is to sort the silver and put it in a papier niache 
holder. In the absence of such a special holder any deep pitcher 
or bowl, deep enough to allow water to come over the soiled part of 
the silver, may be used. The best utensils of this kind are pur- 
chasable with two compartments, one for the knives, which are 
always heavy and scratch the spoons and forks ; and an adjoining 
compartment for the lighter silver. The larger pieces should be 
kept separate from one another, because stacking will give oppor- 
tunity for them to rub and scratch. 

Wash the silver in clean, hot, soapy water, give it a hot rinse, and 
wipe very dry with a clean towel. If this is done carefully with 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 263 

every piece of silver used on the table, that silver will need less of 
the so-called weekly or semi-monthly cleaning. Washing of silver 
does much less harm than scouring. Be careful in taking the silver 
from the wash water not to mix the knives with the forks, and do 
not throw them upon tables or trays. They are drained more satis- 
factorily on a towel. This is especially true of silver vegetable 
dishes, creamers, and sugar bowls ; it is not so easy to keep the small 
silver from scratching. Even silver that is not often used should 
have a frequent washing in hot soapy w^ater, to prevent tarnish. 
This will save cleaning. 

Cleaning. — All silver will need cleaning at some time, whether 
used frequently or not. Some housewives do this cleaning regularly 
once a week. This involves unnecessary wear on the silver, as well 
as unnecessary tax on the worker, and can be done quite as well 
only once in two weeks, if the dining-room silverware is promptly 
and thoroughly washed after each use, and if the silver ornaments, 
door knobs, bureau silver, etc., are rubl)ed with a soft cloth when the 
dusting is done. 

Soft cloths should be on hand for the rubbing of the silver. 
White outing flannel gives perhaps the best all-around satisfaction, 
because it is very soft and can be washed out easily by means of 
warm soapy water. 

Asseml)le all silver tools and supplies. Apply the polish with a 
clean soft cloth and rub thoroughly, then polish with another clean 
soft cloth. If silver is much ornamented, soft brushes will have 
to be used. (See Cleaning Equipment, page 119.) 

If the silver cleaning pan (see chapter on Supplies, page 134), 
is used, one tablespoonful each of baking soda and salt are used to 
every quart of water ; this mixture is right for quick cleaning action. 
If the housewife does not have a regular cleaning pan, she may 
substitute a clean bright aluminum saucepan, with one tablespoon- 
ful each of salt and baking soda, or one teaspoonful of soap powder, 
to each quart of water. Have the water hot, the salt and soda 
measured, and the silver ready to put into the pan as soon as the salt 
and soda have been added to the water. There will be a strong 
effen^escence for the first few seconds, for which reason the pan must 
not be too full of water. 

After cleaning silver, have ready a pan of hot soapy water, with a 
drop or two of ammonia, and clean towels for drying. Wash the 



264 HOUSEWIFERY 

polished silver, rinse, and dry, according to the directions given 
above for washing. In washing hand mirrors, care should be taken 
that no water gets in behind the glaas, as the mirror may be spoiled. 
No silver should be used after c-leaiiing Avithout being washed. 
It not only does not look so well, but is not in a suitable condition 
to use. 

WASHIXG DISHES 

Preparation. — A little time spent in preparing dishes for 
washing will in the end be much time gained. To prepare dishes 
for washing, all scraps of food should be removed. This is usually 
called scraping the dishes, but it is better if wiping is the process 
actually employed, because the sharj) edges of knives used in scraping 
luirm fine dishes. A little wad of paper or the skin of a baked potato 
makes an excellent wiper. A rubber scraper is made for the purpose, 
but it costs ten cents, and is only one thing more to keep clean. 

As the dishes are cleaned of all particles of food, the}' may be 
stacked in piles of plates, saucers, etc. ; silverware put in a pitcher 
or pan with water ; glasses or cups gathered together, and heavier 
platters aud vegetable dishes placed together. Cooking utensils are 
better kept by themselves because they are too In'avy to l)e washed 
with the ])ott'er dislK'S. 

Kitchen Utensils. — Most people dislike to wash the pots and 
pans ; but if they are put to soak the minute they are emptied, with 
a little soap powder or di:?solved soda to cut the grease, with cold 
water for the egg and milk dishes, and hot water for the greasy 
and sugary dishes, it will be found that they have cleaned themselves 
to such an extent that their washing is no harder than that of china. 
The small quantity of grease that adheres to frying pans may be 
wiped out with paper before putting them to soak. It will be fomid 
that they will wash with hot soapy water like any dish. Use a 
wooden skewer to reach corners. 

Washing. — Now that the dishes are ready to be washed, have 
a clean dishpan full of hot soapy water. The dishes can stand any 
heat that is comfortable to the hands. 

With a clean dish cloth, wash the glassivare first. Einse in a 
second pan of water hotter than the wash water, and stand to drain 
on a drainboard at the side of the sink, in a wire dish drainer 
(Fig. 27). or on a large tray, using a towel on which to stand the 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 2G5 

glasses to prevent chipping the edges of them. While still warm 
the glasses should be wiped with a peri'eetly clean glass towel, 
one that is free from lint. 

The silver should be the next pile washed. The hot water 
which has washed the glasses may be used for the silver. Have 
plenty of soap in tliis water, and take time to give the silver a 
good nibbing with soap, for this rubbing, followed with a very hot 
rinse, will keep the silver bright. Silver washed thoroughly every 
day will lessen the work of the special cleaning (page 133). While 
still hot, wipe the silver very dry. 

China. — A second clear wash water should be prepared and the 
rest of the dishes washed; take thought to wash the cleanest ones 
first. If a very hot rinse is used for these dishes and they are placed 
on a wire dish drainer (which may be purchased for a few cents) , the 
dishes will need little wiping. Fine gold decorated dishes and cut 
glass must not have as hot a rinse as other dishes. The reason 
that the dish drainer is worth many times its cost is that it eliminates 
much of the work of wiping, and the consequent use of many towels, 
and the wiping with towels that have been used too long and are no 
longer fresh ; if the rinse is very hot, and the dishes are placed in the 
rack, they will dry while the heavier dishes are being washed. 
Grouping the dishes at the beginning means that the same group or 
pile is now ready to be put away without further sorting. 

Knives. — The knives are usually separated and washed by them- 
selves for three reasons : first, l)ecause they are heavy and are likely 
to scratch the silver forks and spoons ; second, if they have pearl, 
bone or wooden handles, the handles should be kept out of water, 
as soaking takes the lustre out of the pearl or bone and yellows it, 
while wooden handles swell in water so that they gradually loosen 
and come off; a third possible reason for washing them by them- 
selves is that the blades, if of steel, need to be scoured. Pulverized 
bath brick, which may be bought in packages at ten cents each, with 
a good sized flat cork will make the cleaning of the steel easy and 
quick work. If a cork is not at hand, use a little wad of paper, as 
there is no need of staining or wearing a hole in a good dish cloth. 
Wipe all knives dry liefore putting away. 

Dish Towels and Cloths. — It is essential to have clean dishes, 
not only for the looks of the dishes, but especially because the dish 
comes in such close contact with the food that it must be absolutely 



266 HOUSEWIFERY 

clean. If the dishes have been ])n)perly prepared for washing, and 
have beeji well washed, and the towels used only for wiping dishes, 
once a day would be sufficient for a washing out of the dish towels 
themselves. The dish-cloths, however, should be washed after each 
dishwashing. At the times when the towels are not washed, they 
should be hung out, singly, to dry, always in the air, and with as 
much sun as possible. Warm soapy water is best for washing towels, 
and two or three times a week they may have, besides the washing, 
a few minutes boil. After washing, boil the clean towels; rub them 
thoroughly with soap, put in a pan of cold water, and heat to the 
boiling point. Boil five minutes, follow with a hot rinse, then a 
cold, and hang to dry. 

To Clean the Sink. — The sink should have care three times 
daily. The first thing that has been done toward its care is scraping 
or wiping the dishes before washing, so that the dish water is clean 
and without particles of food in it. This is necessary, because the 
grease and the particles of food clog the drain. A sink strainer, 
which is preferably of the type of a wire puree sieve rather than 
the kind often sold under the name of sink strainer, should be kept 
in the bottom of the sink over the drain outlet, so that all water 
may be poured through it. jSTever pour grease into the sink, for first 
of all, it is wasteful ; and secondly, when it cools it forms a coating on 
the inside of the drain, which, if through carelessness, it is allowed 
to continue to form, will in time close the pipe. The little grease 
which is bound to come in any dishwater wall not stop the sink 
drain if after each dishwashing the pipe is flooded with hot water. 
This hot water liquefies the grease, and carries it down and out of the 
pipe. If washing soda is used to cut the grease, as is so often done, 
it should be followed with an abundance of very hot water, otherwise 
the soda which is used to clean the sink, and the grease in the pipe, 
make soft soap which congeals on cooling and may close the drain. 
The hot water flushing of a sink three times a day, where particles 
of food and grease have been carefully kept out of the drain, will 
almost entirely do aw^ay with the use of soda. Finally, wash the 
sink as porcelain, soapstone or iron (see pages 261 and 262). Clean 
the faucets as brass or nickel (see pages 260 and 261). 

Outline for Washing Dishes. — Put cooking utensils to soak as 
soon as emptied. Egg, milk, and flour dishes sliould soak in cold 
water. Sugar and fat dishes should soak in hot water. Wipe frying 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 



2G7 



pans with paper ; soak in hot water and dissolved soda. Scrape and 
pile dishes according to size and shape. Keep handles of knives 
and eggbeater out of water. 

In General. — Wash everything in hot soapy water. Kinse in clear 
hot water ; drain, and if necessary, dry while hot. Use dishcloth or 
brush for washing. Use wooden skewer for corners. 

Glasses. — A\'a&h in warm soapy water. Einse in clear hot water. 
Wipe with towel free from lint. 

Silver. — ^Wash in hot soapy water. Rub silver well. Einse in 
very hot water. Wipe dry with very clean towel. 

China. — Wash in hot soapy water. Einse in hot water. Drain 
or dry. 

Sieel Knives. — Scour with bath l)rick applied with a cork, 

Tf 006? (Spoons, Table Top). — Wash with cold water. Scrub 
with an abrasive material and scrub brush. Einse well. 

Dough Boards. — Soak with cold water to soften dough. Wash 
as above, using cold water and an abrasive cleaner rather than soap. 

Utensils. — Wash inside and outside. 



Supplies: 

Ammonia 

Bath brick for knives 
Dissolved soda 
Metal cleaner: 

silver 

coarser material 

Equipment: 

Bottle brush 

Cork 

Dish cloth 

Dish pan 

Dish drainer 

Dish mop 

Metal mesh pot cleaner 

Scrub brush 

Sink brush 



Scouring powder or soap 

Soap 

Washing soda 



Sink strainer 

Soap dish 

Soap shaker with soap scraps 

Towels for 

china and glass 

kitchen 

hand 
Vegetable brush 
Dishwashing machine 



CLEANING STOVES 

As we clean up the sink after each meal, so should we care for 
our stoves. They will not only be much less of a care, but they will 
look better and be always ready for service. All stoves may be kept 
in good condition by wiping off, while still warm, any grease spat- 
terings or spilled food, with a crushed newspaper. Eub the stave 



268 



HOUSEWIFERY 



briskly witli a second piece of paper, and the stove will be smooth 
;ind black enough to make constant blacking unnecessary. Any 
sticky Food can l)e easily waslied ofP with hot soapsuds again using 
ihc papci- ill ])rcference to the cloth, so that there will be no dirty 
cldtb, citbiM- lying about constantly dirty, or having to be washed. 
Once or twice a week, tbe stoves [when cold), niay be gone over 




Fig. IGO. — Cleaning a gas stove. 



with a cloth moistened with kerosene, rublnng them tlioroughly until 
they are clean and bright. 

If blacking is preferred to oil, one may protect the hand during 
the process by using paper bags which are usually plentiful in the 
home. The stove must be clean, that is, free from particles of food, 
bits of coal, wood or ashes, before applying the blacking. Moisten 
the blacking with a little warm water, and with a dauber, apply 
to the stove either before lighting the fire, or when the fire in the coal 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 269 

or wood stove is so low that the blacking does not sputter or boil on 
the surface. Polish with tlie polishing brush as soon as the l)lacking 
is dry. Blacking should be put on a cool stove for two' reasons: 
The hot stove wastes blacking, and some blackings contain inflam- 
mable liquids which would cause fire. It takes a great deal of time 
to l)lacken stoves, to say nothing of the dirt involved, and the oil 
Avill give a much better looking stove with less effort. 

Gas stoves and kerosene stoves may be kept in good condition by 
washing with soap and water, or soda and water when very greasy, 
and then when cold, wiping over with kerosene or a mixture of two 
parts kerosene and one part turpentine. These stoves with enamel 
finish need only washing. The tray under the gas top burners 
should be taken out regularly and cleaned. 

Burners from oil and gas stoves may be cleaned by detaching 
them from the stove, placing in a pan large enough to hold them, 
and covering with washing soda and water (Fig. IGO). One-half 
to one pound of soda may be used to a gallon of water. Bring to 
boiling point and let boil until the grease, soot and charred food 
sloughs off. Wipe off with paper or an old brush, rinse with hot 
water, and put back on the stove to dry by lighting the fire. The 
nickel on the stoves should be kept free from rust Avitli a little kero- 
sene, lemon or linseed oil, and can be washed frequently. Any of 
the metal polishes will keep it Ijright. (See Cleaning of iSTickel, 
page 261.) 

REFRIGERATOR.— CLEANING AND CARE 

Daily. — Wash the ice before putting it into the refrigerator. 

Do not wrap the ice ; it must melt in order to keep the box cold. 

Bemove discolorations on porcelain lining with whiting or 
porcella (see page 3G2). 

Look over the contents and plan to use all left-overs while per- 
fectly fresh. 

All food must be in clean utensils. 

Do not put food into the refrigerator on dining-room china. 

Keep food in the section of the refrigerator intended for it. 

Do not allow food of strong odor to remain uncovered in the 
refrigerator. Covers may be made of waxed paper. 

Keep food such as broken eggs, mayonnaise dressing, etc., 
covered; lettuce and parsley should be washed and then stored in 



270 HOUSEWIFERY 

clean clotlis or glass jars, without water. Uiil)roken egg yolks may 
bo covered with water; this will keep thein from drying; change 
water ever)' day. 




Fig. 161. — Cleaning a refrigerator. 

Charcoal, unless fresh, has no power to absorb odors. To 
freshen, boil in water and cool. 

Twice a Week. — Wash thoroughly the outside of the refrigera- 
tor with a damp cloth, and dry. 

Wash all parts of the inside except the ice section, using cold 



CLEANING AND CARE OF ROOMS 271 

Avater to wliicli a few drops of ammonia have been added. Soda 
Avater may be used. 

Weekly. — Remove ice rack and scrub it, wash in soda solution 
and in clear cool water. Einse in cold water. Boil with hot soda 
water once in two weeks (Fig. 161). 

Wash shelves and walls, using hot water to which a few drojis of 
ammonia have been added. 

Use a wooden skewer to clean grooves. 

Einse in clear hot water. 

Dry thoroughly. 

Wash outside of refrigerator with a damp cloth, then dry 
thoroughly. 

General Suggestions. — Keep doors of refrigerator closed. 

Do not use cleaning materials like soap which leave a strong 
odor ; ammonia or soda and warm water are the best. 

Washing a refrigerator wii;h hot water of course raises its tem- 
23erature ; so use cold water ordinarily. Hot water is necessary occa- 
sionally because it cleans better, and sterilizes when the parts are 
boiled in it. 

TO CLEAN FILTERS 

The very small filters, which are filled with cotton, asbestos, or 
pebbles and charcoal, filter very rapidly. Because the filtering sub- 
stance is in small amounts and of very porous material, such a filter 
cannot be considered dependable. To increase their efficiency, some 
.small filters may be reversed daily by turning end for end and 
flooding the filtering medium ; then by boiling the whole filter daily, 
it may be made temporarily sterile. Filters with pads should have 
the pads changed regularly each day. 

Another type of filter is made of stone crocks, set one upon 
the other, and through the porous material of the bottom of the 
upper crock the water passes by gravity to the lower crock. This 
filter is slow in its action, and must be cleaned regularly. None of 
these can be safely relied upon in water eariwing disease germs. 

The Pasteur " germ-proof " type of filter with proper care is 
more to be depended upon ; in this, the water is forced through a 
porcelain cylinder from the outside. It can be cleaned ])y the house- 
wife, by shutting off the inflow of water, loosening the metal band 
and lifting the porcelain tubes carefully from the outer metal or 



272 HOUSEWIFERY 

glass cylinder; with a brush wash the outside of the tubes to remove 
deposit, rinse and replace; then fasten the clamp and turn on the 
water. This does not give a sanitary cleaning, however, and de- 
pendence must be put upon replacing the iiltering cylinder regularly 
with a sterile one and sending the used one to the factory to be re- 
l)aked. Do not attempt to rebake the tubes at home, as the house- 
wife's oven is no more suited to that work than it is to firing china. 
The supply house will exchange fresh tubes for those needing to be 
baked. (See chapter or Plumbing, page 42.) 

The filtering prol)lem is a doul)le one, to remove visible sediment 
from water, and various filters will do this ; and to remove invisible 
disease and other germs, which cannot be certainly accomplished 
by the household filter. The only reliance to be placed in the latter 
case is u|xm having the water boiled l)efore using it. A household 
filter not i:)roperly cared for may even increase the bacteria in the 
water, liecause it afi^ords a place in the uncared-for filter medium for 
bacteria to multiply. 

sug-CtEStive questions 

1. How would you proceed to clean a brass bed? 

2. How can one take liiit^er marks off mahogany? 

3. If a machine is very greasy, how may it be cleaned ? 

4. How may one remove a rusty deposit in the bottom of a water bottle ? 

5. Make a set of rules to be. given to a maid for cleaning metals. 

6. How do you remove burned food from an enamel saucepan ? 

7. List a number of economies possible today in cleaning. 

EEFEREXCES 

Broadhurst, Jeax, Home a^vd Community Hygiene. J. B. Lippincott 

Company. 
Buchanan, Estelle D., and Robert E., HousEnou) Bacteriology. Mac- 

millan Co. 
Conn H. W., Bacteria, Yeasts and IMolds. Ginn & Co. 
]\IacLeod, Sarah, HANnHOOK of Cleaning. Harper & Bros. 
DoNHAM, Agnes. ^Marketing and Housework. Little, Brown & Co. 
Richards, E. H., Cost op Cleaning. Whitcomb & Barrows. 
Talbot, Marion, House Sanitation. Whitcomb & Barrows. 



CHAPTER X 

CLEANING AND RENOVATION 

Eenovation is renewal, and iiR'aiis the cost in time and money 
to make like new. It is economy in so far as the renovation cost of an 
article does not exceed the original cost. In fact, the cost of reno- 
vation should he considered ^vell by the housewife when she pur- 
chases the various types of household furnishings. Beds, bedding, 
carpets, furniture, kitchen equipment — in fact, every tool or uten- 
sil, all furniture and furnishings, should be purchased only after 
the consideration of first cost, depreciation, such as fading, crackirg, 
and roughing, and renewal cost. Fabrics may justify a large first 
cost if they are of material that can be cleaned, or dyed, or which 
is worthy of re-cutting. To pay for quality under such conditions 
justifies^ the purchase. 

FABRICS 

The first and most common type of renovation is laundering 
with soap and water. The housewife is so accustomed to this process 
in connection with her clothing that she rarely stops to consider it as 
renovation. However, when her attention is directed to the fact that 
such things as blankets, curtains, portier.es, etc., which are usually 
sent to the dry cleaning establishment, can be renovated by an in- 
telligent use of soap and water, the process acquires a new signifi- 
cance. WTien these furnishings are sent to the cleaner, the cost of 
renewal adds materially to their original cost, and so may not repre- 
sent economy. Careful laundering by the housewife will eliminate 
this extra cost, with no harm to the fabrics. And the chances are 
that, if so cleaned, they will be cleaned as frequently as is necessary 
to keep them fresh, whereas the cost of dry cleaning makes its use 
infrequent. 

Fabric stains are unsightly and make a garment look either old 

or untidy if not removed. The stains that are fomul on household 

fabrics are in most cases possible to remove ; they will always come 

out lietter when fresh. For that reason, let the housewife try to 

18 273 



274 HOUSEWIFERY 

remove them firsl with clear cold water, a.s half the stains may be 
washed out in cold water without further work and with no harm 
done to the fabric. 

Rtain irork outfit : Borax 

1 dropper for eacli cliemical (.' h lor o form or ether 

I cup Cream of tartar (jr salts of 

1 liowl lemon 

Blotting paper and eloth the Detergent 

color of tlie fabric, or Gasoline 

white and' non-linting Hydrochloric acid 

Soft cloth Javelle water 

Soft brush Lard or tallow 

iitain Re- A gents: Oxalic acid 

Alcohol Potassium permanganate 

Ammonia Soap 

Recipe for Beiergent. — 1^ oz. white castile soap, 1 oz. ether, 
1 oz. alcohol, 4 oz. ammonia. 

Cut soap tine and heat in one pint of soft water until dissolved. 
Then add three quarts of cold water and the other ingredients. For 
cleaning black goods, use one (juarter cup of this liquid in one pint 
of warm water. If this makes the article too stiff, add more water. 
For removing spots from woolen goods such as men's clothing, apply 
the detergent, only slightly diluted, with a sponge. It is always 
safer to test this detergent or any other cleansing solution with a 
piece of the material {e.g., an underseam) before attempting to 
remove stain, as the ether may affect the color. 

Stains and Their Removal. — (For detailed directions, seepage 
276.) 

To remove all unknown stains, gi-ass and mildew, wash the stain 
in cold water. 

To remove chocolate with cream, cocoa with cream, cream, 
gravies, scorch, sewing machine grease, and tea with cream, wash 
with cold water and soap; any trace of stain may be removed with 
warm water and soap. 

To remove blood and mucus, mucus, and pus, soak in cold water 
to which salt has been added, 1 cup of salt to 8 quarts of water, then 
wash in warm water and soap. 

To remove blood, punch, sugars, and syrups, wash in warm water 
until the stain disappears. 

To remove grease, meat juice, and perspiration, wash in warm 
water and soap, or use magnesium, chalk, starch or meals — not flours. 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 275 

To remove iiidelible pencil, stove blacking, tan shoe polish, tar, 
and wagon grease, put lartl on stain, rub well into the grease spot; 
wash with soap and warm water, liepeat until removed. 

To remove bluing, clear cofEee, clear tea, and fruit, spread stain 
over bowl ; pour boiling water through the stain from a height. 

To remove old stains of chocolate, cocoa, coffee, and tea, moisten 
with cold water; cover with borax, and let stand a few minutes; 
rinse with boiling water. 

To remove wine, put thick layer of salt on stain as soon as made; 
pour boiling water from a height through the stain as soon as 
convenient. 

To remove ink and iron rust, use dilute acids (lemon Juice, sour 
milk, cream of tartar, rhubarb, pineapple, hydrochloric and oxalic 
acids. Use food acids direct without dilution; dilute hydrochloric 
and oxalic acid, with equal quantities of water.) . Apply the acid, let 
stand a few seconds, rinse with warm water; continue until stain 
disappears, then wash with soap and water. 

To remove ink and stubborn stains, use dilute acids (see para- 
graph above) and Javelle water. Apply the acid, then follow with 
Javelle, finalty rinse with hot water and soap. 

To remove old stains and stubborn stains, use dilute oxalic acid 
(as above) and potassium permanganate. Apply a few drops of 
potassium permanganate ; rinse with warm water, then apply 
oxalic acid. Eepeat until stain disappears and finally wash with 
soap and water. 

Before beginning to work on the stain find out if possible : What 
kind of fabric is stained, and what is the stain. If the fabric is 
colored, one must decide which is least objectionable, the stain, or 
the resulting color or lack of color which may come from the action 
of the chemical used to remove the stain. Try the stain remover 
on a sample of the fabric or on some under-seam, to see the effect. 

In using chemicals one should know that alkalies, like soda, 
potash, ammonia, and strong soaps, yellow and destroy wools and 
silks. Dilute acids, such as half-strength oxalic, citric, and hydro- 
chloric, may be used on wools and silks. Dilute acids and alkalies 
may be used on, cottons and linens. 

Cold water will remove many stains and is, therefore, the first 
thing to try, especially if the stain is unknown. The worker must 
realize that it takes time, and that several short applications are 



276 HOUSEWIFERY 

better tliaii one coiit imious (nic If any reagent has been used, ex- 
cept ehloroforni or gasoline, which always quickly evaporates, wash 
out with soap aiid water or a very ahundant use of water. This will 
sto]) further work of the chemical and the possihle i'oriiuitiou of 
holes. 

Method of Procedure. — The method of removing stains is as 
follows: Spread the stained portion over a bowl. With dropper 
apply the proper chemical. Follow quickly with warm water. (Test 
by holding the whole finger in the water ; it should not bum.) Many 
short applications are surer and safer than the one long-continued 
use of a chemical before rinsing. When the stain has disappeared, 
wash the s])ot well until the chemical is entirely removed, then wash 
in soaj) and water, and rinse. 

Eules that a good worker on stains follows: 

1. Know material. 

2. Know stain. 

3. Use dilute chemical. 

4. Use a dropper. 

5. Always use simple reagents first. 
(j. Wash thoroughly. 

Each stain presents its own ])eculiar problem, because the dye 
and the fabric play an important part, and even with these two 
conditions understood, the stain itself presents difficulties. For 
example, coffee with cream, and coffee without it are two distinct 
problems. A good general rule to follow when there are combined 
problems is to work as if the stain were all due to the material 
that is most difficult to treat. In ease of a stain of coffee with 
cream, work as if it were entirely cream. Cream being a fat, use 
cold water, and then cold water and soap. Coffee without cream 
is instantly removed with boiling water. Fruit under the same 
condition responds similarly. In the same way, when a combined 
fabric is to be cleaned, proceed always as if the whole material were 
entirely the most delicate one. For example, wool and cotton, wash 
as wool. 

Good general rules to follow are : 

Clear sugar stains, like punch, use hot water. 

Clear fat stains, like olive oil, use cold water and soap. 

Clear albumen stains, like blood or egg, use cold or tepid water. 

Use magnesia or chalk for grease stains only. 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 277 

Any combination of material like blood and grease as in gravy, 
use cold water; like fat, sugar and albumen, as chocolate ice- 
cream, cold water. 

Precautions in Spotting. — Stain removal or " spotting " means 
that a water ring will often follow, and that the fading or running 
of colors may result. ^Yhen the whole garment is to be washed 
after the stain is removed, the problem of stain removal is much 
less difficult than if only the spot is to be removed. If the garment 
is to be washed, take out the spot first, and then proceed to wash 
the whole. If the garment is to have a stain removed, place the 
garment on a clean work-table and isolate the spot as much as 
possible for two reasons — first, to keep from spotting the rest of the 
material by any accidental dropping of water or chemicals; and, 
second, so that the chemical or water used will have the least chance 
to spread. Put a cloth over the larger part of the garment as pro- 
tection. Place the stain on a folded cloth, or white blotting paper, 
or over a bowl. Use the cloth method for silks or fabrics not to be 
washed later, and use the bowl method for white goods to be washed 
or where water does not harm. Moisten the stain with cold water, 
then apply the chemical l)y di-opjiing from the dropper; the chemi- 
cal does better work if the way is prepared by moistening the stain. 
As fast as the stain loosens and is absorbed by the cloth and blotting 
paper, use a new pad. If colors are very delicate, use cold water 
instead of warm, and use dilute chemical, even though it takes a 
longer time. Warm water often loosens a dye. A water ring may be 
left after a spot has been removed. (See below.) 

Saving Colors. — Stripes are saved by streaking the adjoining 
stripes with soap or borax, especially if acid is to be used ; for ex- 
ample, in taking ink out of a white stripe among colors. Where 
colors are very uncertain, it is helpful to use pieces of material of the 
same color for the pad under the stain and for the rubbing cloth. 
A white cloth often leaves a fine lint stain which is very difficult to 
remove. 

To remove a water ring, hold the stain over steam and shake 
until tlioroughly moist, not wet, then shake dry. Often the whole 
breadth of material will have to be steamed. Steam is easily ob- 
tained l\y boiling a small amount of water in the teakettle, fitting 
the top tightly and tying a piece of cheesecloth over the spout. 



278 HOUSEWIFERY 

This cheeseeloili prevents sputterings of water from spotting the 
fabric. 

Laundering. — LaiuHlry work is a weekly renovation, requiring 
much consideration, too mucii for a small part of a chapter; but 
as laundering is renovation and I'enewai, a few brief directions will 
l)e given. (For Laundr}- J']ipiipnicnt, see j>ag(! 103; for Supplies, 
see page 13(5.) 

Sort the clothes into piles of white and color, and separate these 
piles of fa!)rics into wool, silk, cotton, and linen. ]\lend wherever 
possible, ])efore washing. A stitch in time saves nine. 

Remove stains from white clothes if these stains are of such a 
nature as to need special attention. ]\Iany ordinary stains come out 
in the process of washing. 

Soaking clothes in cold water helps to clean them, because it 
softens and dissolves so much of soil, and it certainly makes washing 
easier. On account of the possible stains, use cold water, not hot. 
Soak only cottons and linens. 

Wash in warm water and soaj) suds. There has been enough 
soap used when the suds holds and does not settle on the water 
as a scum. 

Boil only white linens and cottons; should one wish to econo- 
mize on time, fuel or work, scald the clothes by covering Avith hot 
water, not waiting to boil. Boiling helps to clean very soiled cloth- 
especially soiled spots, with soap, fill boiler with cold water, and put 
ing and is good to sterilize the clothes. To boil, rub the clothes, 
on to boil. There must be good suds. Boil five minutes after 
boiling point is reached, then rinse in hot rinse. Boiling, when done, 
should follow the washing and two hot rinses should follow that. 
Do not boil dirty clothes, and do not boil with naphtha soaps. 

Rinse in two hot rinses so as to flood off all greasy dirty soap 
suds, which would form a sticky scmn if cooled. 

Einse in cold water, because the cold water opens the fabric and 
chills the clothes, preparing them for the blue. 

Blue in well-stirred, clean blue water. Tf solid blues are used, 
tie them in several thicknesses of cheesecloth or a heavy piece of 
flannel or muslin. Use about one teaspoonful of liquid blue to a 
tub, and about one-third of a ball to a tub. 

Starching is a process which, when used, follows the bluing. 
When the garment is to be starched, use the following proportions : 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 279 

1-3 tiiblespoons starch 
1 teaspoon paraflin 
1 teaspoon borax 
1 quart hot water 

Mix all dry ingredients, moisten with cold water, and then 
add boiling water, stirring well. Cook until paste is clear, about ten 
minutes, stirring to prevent burning. Use starch only after being 
well cooked and strained. Use hot starch for all things except colors. 
Starch with garments wrong side out, wring out all the starch that 
can be wrung out, and rub in the remainder. A good worker never 
leaves a glaze of starch on the garment, but works it well into the 
fabric. Avoid using a starch too thick and pasty. 

Dry 1iy hanging with the wind, by pinning straight, and by 
hanging enough of the garment over the line to prevent the corners 
from tearing. A doul)le garment like a petticoat is less likely to 
tear if it is hung so that the opening is with the wind. 

Take down from the line, fold in even folds without crushing, 
and much will be saved in the ironing. 

Sprinkling should be done evenly and thoroughly, but not too 
heavily. A good rule is that thin and thick goods, require the most 
care, like lace and tucks. Eoll tightly so that the moisture pene- 
trates, and place the rolls close together in the basket. Clothes 
should be moistened at least one-half hour before the ironing is 
to be done; and when the weather is not too warm, over night is 
])etter ; too long a delay after moistening for ironing may result in 
mildew. 

Iron with clean, hot irons, and always iron as large a space 
as possible at one time. Always iron each section dry as it is ironed, 
for this prevents the rough-dry appearance which follows if the 
clothes are not sprinkled enough or arc not ironed dry as they are 
ironed. Iron the garment by first ironing those parts that when 
finished may hang off the board out of the way while the rest is 
ironed. Iron table linen half dry on the wrong side, and entirely dry 
on the right. Iron embroidery on the wrong side on a pad heavy 
enough to allow the embroidery to sink well into the pad. Thick 
embroidery requires a thick pad. Silks should be pressed on the 
wrong side, and heavy silks are best pressed with a cheesecloth 
under the iron ; this is especially true for heavy seams or folds. 
Too hot an iron will not only glaze but crack the silk. Silks often 
finish better if the cheesecloth or the silk itself is slightly damp 



280 HOUSEWIlKin' 

wlicn iroiuHl. Wooloits sliciild he ii-f)ii(il on llic vvroncr side or should 
lie ]n-('ss('(l on the right, side with (hinipcncd ohcosecloth over the 
wool. I'lill lip the choesofluth against I he nap of the wool, and in 
thai way lift and lliifT it. Woolen l)laiikets are much improved 
hv hrushing with a stiff whisk hroom. 

Washing Colored Goods. — For these, it may not he possihle to 
use soap, in which case starcli water, such as might he made by using 
grated potato, bran, soap bark, or in fact, ordinary laundry' starch 
paste, may be substituted. A^'ith these agents the only thing that 
could affect the color would be the water softening the dye ; avoid 
this by using cold water instead of Avarm. To use any of these, 
add them directly to the wash water, using about 2 cups to a half- 
gallon of water. Small quantities of l)ran or soap bark will go 
farther if heated in the water for 10 to 15 minutes, and then 
strained out. Use the grated potato raw, but without paring. 

Colors may be preserved to a great exteut by the use of cool 
water, soap in solution, and the use of soap sul)stitutes. If the 
■water causes the color to " run " or " bleed,'' use salt a.s quickly 
as ])ossihle— so quickly that the salt nuist be at hand ready for 
instant use; but do not use "for fear"; salt hardens the Avater, 
60 better results will follow washing first. Use 1 to 2 cups salt to 
enough water to cover garment. 

Bleaching — To Bleach Cottons and Linens. — In bleaching, 
always have the fabrics clean. So the first step is to wash out the 
dirt. There are three household methods of 1)leaching. 

The first method is to spread the wet garment on the grass or 
on a towel in the sun. As it dries, romoisten, Ijecause water supplies 
one of the best bleaching agents — oxygen. 

The second method is by using JaveJle. Javelle is a ^lution 
which may be purchased at the drug store, or may be made with 
little effort and expense by the housewife. 

Recipe for Javelle Water: 

1 lb. wasliiiig soda 

1 qt. boiling water 

% lb. chloride of lime 

2 qts. cold water 

Put the soda into an agate pan and add l)oiling water. Mix the lime in 
the cold water. Pour this mixture into the dissolved soda. When settled, 
pour the clear liquid into a bottle and use as Javelle water. Keep in a 
dark place. The sediment will disinfect sinks and flush closets. 



CLEANINCr AND RENOVATION 281 

This Javelle mixture should ho allowed to settle and only the 
liquid bottled and u^^vi]. It is cloudy .hiAellc wliieli is harmful to 
clothes. To every pail of water use one to two cups of Javelle liquid. 
Hot water will facilitate the work, but do not boil. Wungc the clean 
W'et garment into the water to which Javelle has been added. After 
three or four minutes wash in hot soapy water. l\epeat if necessary. 

The third method of bleaching is by potassium permanganate 
ajid oxalic acid. They may Ije used in large quantities for the 
whole garment, or with a dropper to remove spots. Make the per- 
manganate solution by using one teaspoon of crystals to one quart 
of water, and use half-strength oxalic acid, which is made from 
a concentrated solution by adding to an equal amount of water. Add 
acid to water instead of water to acid, to avoid its sputtering. Apply 
the permanganate to the clean, moistened garment, then rinse with 
Avann water ; the garment will turn a good brown ; follow with dilute 
oxalic acid, which will whiten. Einse with several washings of 
water, and finally wash either the spot or the whole garment with 
soapy water. This last step is always necessary, so as to be sure that 
no chemical has been left in the garment. Oxalic acid is a poison. 

To Bleach Wools and Silks. — Neither Javelle nor potassium 
permanganate can be used to remove stains from silks or wools, 
unless a stain is so bad that the slight yellowing from Javelle or 
permanganate is nothing as compared to the stain. 

For both silks and wools, borax can be used, as it is a mild 
bleach for either fabric. Hyposulphite of soda, which is the 
^' hypo '' used in photography, can also be used for woolens or 
silks. A tablespoonful of crystals dissolved in a quart of water will 
make a good rinse to whiten silks ; follow with clear water. Silk or 
w'ool, once yellowed, is hard to bleach because of its delicateness. 

For wools, sulphur fumes allowed to pass through the- clean, wet 
garment is the best bleach. Care should be used in doing this work 
to avoid fire and not to subject the worker to the danger of inhaling 
the fumes. Unless one has facilities for working out of doors 
it is rather inadvisable to attempt it. A barrel and a sulphur 
candle make a good bleaching outfit. Place the pan of water, in 
which stands the candle, down in the bottom of the barrel, so that 
the fumes from the lighted candle are forced to rise and circulate 
through the garment, which is suspended in the barrel on clean 



282 HOUSEWIFERY 

white strings or strips of muslin. Be careful of two things : do not 
inhale the fumes, and arrange the candle so as to prevent fire. 

Pale bluing in the rinse water of either white silks or wools 
will do considerable towards keeping the white clear and preventing 
its yellowing. Photographers' "liypo'' (hyposulphite of soda) can 
be used to restore the whiteness to silks or wools, but any stronger 
elienn'cal l)leach will yellow both wools and silks. 

Velvets. — All materials of this nature, often found in portieres, 
table runners, and cushions, may be renovated by brushing thor- 
oughly with a soft brush. If any whipping is to be done, it should 
always be done from the back so as not to mar or print the velvet 
with the beater. Water spots on \el\et may l)e steamed out. This 
may be done by either of two methods : Put about one-half inch of 
water in the teakettle, tie a piece of cheesecloth over the spout, and 
let the water boil hard. In this way a jet of steam will be produced 
in which the velvet can be shaken. This process may have to be 
repeated several times, but in almost all cases the worker will be 
rewarded. If one prefers to use a wet cloth on a hot iron, steam 
can be produced this way ; but for large, heavy pieces the teakettle 
method is best. Cleaning may he done satisfactorily with mag- 
nesium or chalk by spreading a thick layer of powder; let it remain 
for several hours, even a day or so, and then shake and brush off 
the powder. This method is not a])plicable when the garment is 
badly soiled. 

Eiderdown Quilts. — Prepare a suds of warm water and white 
soap. Souse or knead the quilt in the suds. Use a second suds, 
two waters for rinsing, and then hang to dry Ijy spreading out be- 
tween two lines. As often as possible while drying shake from all 
four sides to re-liven the down, and to help to re-spread it. It 
will be found that any wringing must be done by squeezing. The 
pressing of the silk or sateen cover may be done with a warm iron. 
A little time will be required after the down is dry to spread it about 
with the fingers. The quilts mav be most satisfactorily cleaned in 
this way, and will lack only a little of the original pufTiness, which 
came from the down being Idown into the various section patterns 
as the quilt was being made. 

Pillows. — Pillows may be washed, without removing the feathers 
from the case, in a tub or washing machine. Wash by sousing 
up and down in the water, and then after rinsing, hang to dry in 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 283 

the suii and wiiul. Choose a wiiuly day for this work if possible, 
as wind dries and livens the feathers well. It will be easier to clean 
the tick if the feathers are removed, as the tick often needs rubbing 
wliich will break the feathers. For this, transfer the feathers to 
aeheesecloth bag\ and wash feathers in the bag, and wash the ticking 
separately. 

Gold and Silver Lace and Embroidery. — These may be cleaned 
l)y l)nisliing with alcohol or gasoline. If this lace is in a dress, 
cai-ry ont the same precautions as given above (page 2T7 ) for " spot- 
ting.'' This metal lace may also be cleaned by boiling in salt and 
water, using two tablespoonsful of salt to each pint of water. 

Corduroy. — Corduroy, wliich is often used for hangings as well 
as clothing, can l)e washed successfully. To wash, prepare a suds of 
luke-warm water and soap. Wash or souse the material up and 
down in the soapsuds, rinse in several waters, and hang dripping on 
the line. There can be no wringing, because that would mar the 
velvet. When dry brush with a soft brush and do not iron. 

To Dry Clean. — Dry cleaning is a problem for the expert 
worker, and because there is so much of a fire risk involved, it should 
never be done by the careless worker and never by anyone except 
under excellent conditions, such as plenty of air, suitable containers, 
a possible way of disposing of the gasoline after use, and no oppor- 
tunity for fire, such as cigars, matches, candles, gas light or lamps, 
or even a cook stove. An open flame of any sort will ignite the 
gasoline fumes at a distance of several feet — real contact of the 
fire and the liquid is not necessary. 

For the best gasoline work a person should have on hand as 
much gasoline as she would have water for washing, and it should 
be used in as generous quantities as water, otherwise streaky, grimy 
clothes will result. Soap may he used in conjunction with the 
gasoline by taking the cleansing brush and rubbing the spot directly 
with the gasoline and soap, as if it were soap and water. There 
should be much rinsing to insure good color. Finally, however, 
things which have been continuously gasolined are likely to turn 
yellow and are almost impossible to bleach white. Saving used 
gasoline for the next cleaning is not in the long run a saving, be- 
cause the exposure causes the gasoline to become less volatile and 
more oily, and consequently a grimy cleaner. To dispose of used 



284 HOUSEWIFERY 

gasoline, pour on a gravel or sandy soil, or let it evaporate in the 
shade. (lasoiine must not he put down drains. 

Other ways of (h'y cleaning arc hy the use of fullers" earth, dry 
starch, magnesia, and meals, e.g., hran and cornmeal. The principle 
of this cleaning is that these dry materials absorh the grease which 
hinds soil to the fal)rics, and then the soil is set free to he brushed 
off with the dry powder. lleCore doing much hrushing always 
shake off the powder. This will help to prevent the griminess that 
otherwise will follow. 

Dyeing. — Dyeing is rather a last alternative toward renovation 
of a fabric which cannot be washed or dry cleaned with satisfactory 
results, or which has spots. To dye the garment, wash it clean, 
rinse well, and it is ready to dye; no one would dye a soiled gar- 
ment, ^lany housewives attempt to dye goods at home. It is sug- 
gested that some snmll, inexpensive thing he attem2:)ted first, as 
much can he learned in this way ahout the best way to proceed. 
In all cases the garment should be cleaned from grease, the dye 
should 1)6 mixed according to the prescribed methods which come 
with almost every package of dye, and there should be sufficient 
quantity, so that the garment may completely float in the dye solu- 
tion and in that way avoid streaking. If, in its original state the gar- 
ment is uneven in color, for example, if a j^erson has tried to " spot " 
it, and some of the color has been withdrawn, the dye should he put 
on these lighter spots with a cloth or brush before the rest of the 
garment is dipped. Otherwise, when the garment is dyed for the 
purpose of covering up spots, the spots will in all probability appear 
a shade lighter. This is the reason for the expert's advice that the 
color chosen for an old garment should be a very dark one, either 
l)lue or black, for then it will be so dark that it will probably cover 
u]) many imperfections. As dyeing requires soaking in water, the 
fabric is very likely to shrink. All of this must be taken into 
consideration before attem])ting to do any work. It is one thing 
to have a garment renovated and ha^e it turn out so well that 
it may be called an economy ; but it is decidedly a waste to pay for 
renewal, and have a garment which cannot be used. 

Rugs and Carpets. — The first thought in renovating rugs and 
carpets is to get them clean. To remove the soil they are usually 
sent away to be scoured, and this is advisable, especially if the rug 
or carpet is very large and weighty to handle. A rug can be freed 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 



285 



from dust by whipping with a tiat rattan boater. A wire or a 
stick beater is hard on the rug because either may cut the liber. 
Shaking a rug often frays the ends. 

Any rug, if one has tlie endurance, may be thoroughly fresh- 
ened at home by first getting it entirely free from dust, and then 
preparing a heavy lather (as heavy as a shaving lather), of any white 
soap and water (Fig. 1G2). With a soft brush this suds may be 
spread on the rug, always with the thought of keeping up a strong 




Fig. 162. — Washing rug or carpet. Any rug may be washed, if the colors are fast, 
with a little water first. 



Test 



frothy lather. Apply the suds with the brush and rinse it off with 
soft cloths or sponges Mliicli ha\e been wrung out of warm water. 
Do only a small part at a time, llinse each part as you work rather 
than spread over too large a surface at one time. The rinsing is an 
essential part, so be careful to change tlie water very frequently, and 
as fast as it darkens in color. The washing method may lie applied 
to practically all rugs, except those that would fade even with water. 
Many rugs may be actually washed in the waslitub or in a wash- 
ing machine. First brush or beat to remove all possible dust ; then 



286 HOUSEWIFERY 

give it a clear wash first to remove the dirt it is not possible to 
brush 'Out. Then add soapsuds and wash until clean. Several 
rinses will clear up the coloring and remove any soap wliich if 
allowed to remain would make the rug sticky. In order that the 
rug be not marked, do not attempt to wring, but hang dripping on 
the line wrong side down, and let drip until dry. The washing 
of rag rugs should be planned for when they are made hy having 
the rags of permanent color so as to allow for washing. Many rag 
rugs do not appear to wash well because they have been washed in 
too small an amount of water, and not rinsed well. This is often 
the case when done in the washtub and is especially so if the person 
is not strong enough to handle the rug easily and rinse it well. 
In such a case the mg had better be laid on a floor, like that of 
the porch, scrubbed with a broom and suds, and rinsed by pails 
of water or by means of the hose. Poor rinsing leaves a grimy rug. 

Matting. — To clean matting, use ammonia and cold water, 
trying to avoid using much soap ; never use veiy hot water, or a 
soap that contains a good deal of soda. Cold water wdll give the 
best results. To remove grease spots, spread either fullers' earth, 
dry starch, or whiting on the stain. This dry absorbent should take 
up the grease. A second application may be necessary, each time 
letting the absorbent remain for a few days. Detergent (page ST-f ) 
can be used to remove grease, or ether or chloroform will dissolve 
grease. Be careful to absorb the grease by a pad under the stain, 
changing it as fast as soiled. (Avoid a fire with ether.) 

Linoleum. — A much worn linoleum can be freshened and saved 
by using varnish. This varnish, like that for the floor, must be 
of a very good quality and put on as a thin covering, because varnish 
that is either of poor quality or is put on too thick, is likely to 
prove worse than none. 

Tapestries. — Tapestries, either wools or silks, should be kept 
thoroughly brushed or cleaned with the vacuum cleaner to keep out 
the dust, and also to ward off moths. To wash, lukewarm or cold 
water should be used, and in this dissolve enough white soap to make 
a good suds. With a soft brush apply the suds, and rinse with clear 
water until all soap is removed. It is advisable to keep the tapestries 
flat. They may be tacked on a table top, or they may be hung to 
be cleaned. With careful workmanship they could be cleaned in 
their frames provided they were not fastened on a back mounting 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 287 

so that there would be no cliaiiee for soap and water to get in under- 
neath where it would not dry out easily. Warm cornmeal or 
fullers' earth will give a dry cleaning, but every particle must be 
brushed off when finished. 

Window Shades, — ^Window shades can be first cleaned by leav- 
ing them on the roll and gradually unwinding, as one wipes care- 
fully on both sides. If this were done often there would be less 
need for special cleansing. Any good white window shade can be 
cleaned by making a very thick soapsuds of white soap and warm 
water, and applying with a soft sponge. The sponge should be 
wrung almost dry so as not to water-soak the shade. To do this 
work one should spread the shade on a table or some large flat 
surface. Cornmeal or fullers" earth may be used with a stiff brush 
in cases where the shade is not to be washed. Shades that are too 
old to be washed can sometimes be painted with a good quality 
of white paint, being careful to put it on in a thin layer, and 
getting it thoroughly dry before putting the shade up. To wash 
colored shades may be a risk, because the color is likely to fade 
and become streaky. 

LEATHER 

Fur Rugs. — Fur rugs are like any other skin material, very 
likely to dry in the heat of the room. For that reason a rug will 
deteriorate faster than one would imagine. A white fur rug can 
be washed with soap in somewhat the same way as one would wash 
a small dog, rinsing in lukewarm water, and then letting it lie on 
the floor to dry. Blue rinse water will whiten the white hair. Be- 
cause, unlike the live animal, there is no supply of natural oil, the 
housekeeper may make up this deficit by putting a little neatsfoot oil, 
lemon oil, or linseed oil on the back of the skin. A mounted fur 
rug, if very soiled, can be cleaned with heavy lather and rinsed by 
wiping with wet sponges, as was suggested for rugs (page 285). 

It is not possible to wash the rug, of course, if the skin is 
mounted with a heax'y flannel or wool back. In such a case, clean 
the skin with warm cornmeal. Put the cornmeal in the oven until 
thoroughly warm; then, in handfuls, rub it over the rug. As 
fast as it soils, use fresh meal. Then cover the rug with fresh 
meal and let stand over night on several days; shake and brush. 
Be sure the cornmeal is out of the rug so as not to attract any 
insects. 



288 HOUSEWIFEliV 

Chamois. — Chamois as a window ck'aiu'r roquiros so inni'li can' 
to keep it ill ^ood condition that it is used much less than it once 
was. The iirst cost also is high. Whetlier it he chamois window 
cloth or chamois gloves, wash in lukewarm water, rinse well aJid 
then pull to shape hefore drying. As the skin dries it should he 
pulled, shaped, and ruhhed to keep it from drving stilt. Should 
the skin hecome very hard, a warm water rinse with a teaspoon ol" 
olive oil to two quarts of water will do much to soften it. The 
chamois such as are used for tahle covers may he washed hy taking 
a hrush and lukewarm soapsuds. With a dry lather go all over 
the chamois, then rinse with lukewarm water, wiping with a soft 
sponge or cloth ; when the chamois is dry, hrush up the fihrc with a 
soft brush. iMany water spots and grease spots can be removed in 
tliis way. Often it is better to do the whole piece rather than to try 
to remove certain spots. Certain colors will be affected by this 
method, but if the whole skin is done, the tone of color will be 
quite even and look I^etter than if the skin is " spotted." 

Leather Upholstery. — Ijeather used as upholstery is very likely 
to become dried from indoor heat; as it dries it parches and cracks. 
To keep it in good condition and hence to help it to resist wear, 
it should bo rubbed over with oil, with the same idea as one often 
puts oil on the hands to keep them from chapping. Remembering 
that any oil dressing will darken the leather, use as light an oil 
as possible, such as paraffin oil, lemon oil, neatsfoot or linseed oil. 

If the leather is soiled it can be cleaned with some of the 
cleansers which the housekeeper will obtain most easily by purchas- 
ing in bottles prepared for shoe cleaning. A solution of white soap 
and water to which oil and alcohol have been added, will give a 
good cleaner. To prepare, use one bar of white soa]) dissolved in 
one cup of water ; then add one cu]) of alcohol and two cups of light 
oil. This will not only clean the leather but will help to supply 
some of the oil it naturally requires. If one is to oil leather, be 
careful to rub off all excess oil as it will catch dirt, and very quickly 
darken the leather. 

Imitation leathers, which are really enamelled cloth, will be 
somewhat renewed l)y the oil, in the same way as linoleum would be, 
but the housekeeper must remember that this is only a cloth with 
an enam(dled iinish and has no jxwer of absorption. It is bound 
to scale off in time with wear. 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 289 

METALS 

Stoves. — Stoves may be painted by using black enamel s^toxo 
paint, and il' allowed to dry thoroughly, the paint will remain for 
several months, making the cleaning of the stove only a matter of 
washing with a cloth or paper and soapy water. 

Steel or rusty iron is probably most easily cleaned with pumice 
or emery powder. This is cleaning by abrasion, or the scratch 
method, and caxe will have to be taken to avoid scratching too 
deeply into the metal. The pumice alone will not only remove the 
rust, which may have penetrated below the outer coating, but will 
tend to leave a rough mieven surface. Oil used with the pumice 
will lubricate the pumice^, and keep it from attacking the metal loo 
directly, thus producing a smooth cleaned surface. 

Tin or zinc bathtubs can be painted with white enamel paint. 
One sliould be very sure that the tub is thoroughly dry before be^ 
ginning, and that after each layer of paint there has been ample 
time for the paint to dry. Two layers of house paint followed by 
two of enamel paint will give a good finish for a bathtub that will 
probably last one season. To harden the paint before putting the 
tub to use, fill the tub with cold water and let stand for several 
hours. Do tliis before attempting to use it at all. Do not begin to 
paint a tub unless it is the last resource for renovation, as once 
painted it will require frequent renewal. 

WOODS 

The care and renewal of woods is one of the complex problems 
of the housewife. The problem is made complex by the many kinds 
of woods, and the varied ways of finisliing them. It would require 
an expert to meet these complexities, but there are a number of 
simjile suggestions that may be followed with much success. 

The everyday woods are pine, which is the soft wood most com- 
monly used, and oak, ash, maple, walnut, mahogany, and cherry, 
which are the common hard woods. Any of the woods may be found 
in house finish, or used for furniture. They are finished with either 
wax, oil, or varnish. The wax or oil dressing sinks into the wood, 
while the varnish produces a shell-like glaze which prevents the wood 
from absorbing oil or wax. The best care for all wood finish is to 
keep it free from dust and grit by using a clean dry cloth, and when 
the wood is to be polished or "done over,'' give special attention to 
19 



290 HOUSEWIFERY 

it. i'oor results often follow wiping- wood with an oiled or dampened 
cloth. 

To re/inish means to reoil or rewax or repolish, besides covering 
up scratches, dents, heat or water marks. The work involved is 
more or less limited, and so is within the strength of the housewife. 
However, no one ought to undertake the more extensive work of 
" doing over " a piece of furniture unless thoroughly familiar with 
the amount of time and labor required. 

To compare the exj^ense of doing over at home and of hiring it 
done, one needs to think of the cost of the many kinds of material 
necessary in order to have a little of this or a little of that which 
will be necessary for a small job, yet sufiicient to do many pieces of 
work; and if the materials are not entirely used, this means an 
expense about equal to the price charged by the professional; while 
with him there is a much greater likelihood of success than if the 
work is done at home. The work, to he successful, cannot be 
dropped at many stages, and the housewife's results often suffer on 
this account. The materials dry quickly if not used, and a.s most 
of them are inflanmiable, they should be carefully put away. Care 
should be given, too, to the cloths and brushes ; wash the cloths and 
brushes, or else put them in a stone crock or tin can where they 
could not cause a fire if spontaneous combustion results. 

These difficulties are not mentioned to discourage the housewife, 
l)ut to present the jn-oljlem as one for which a person of some ex- 
perience is needed, and which involves considerable expense and 
much time for successful work. If the man of the family enjoys 
this kind of shop work in the evenings, then it is good home work 
for him, giving exercise and providing a means of saving money, 
as well as securing pleasurable results in the good finish to which 
many woods readily respond. 

To Remove Paint or Varnish. — Prepared removers may be 
Ijought, but a less exjiensive remover is either potash or soda or 
ammonia. The worker should l)e careful, as all these materials are 
very caustic, burning hands or fal)rics, and any spatterings would 
ruin wall or woodwork. To work with any one of them, have all 
the air possible, and leave the room while the paint or varnish is 
softening, as one should not inhale their fumes more than is neces- 
sary. A folded, moistened handkerchief over the nose and mouth 
will add to the comfort of the worker. The softened varnish on 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 291 

floors nia}' be removed by hot water put on and taken oil by a mop 
and a mop wringer. The hands cannot be used, as no giove would 
resist tlie caustic. For proportions use — 

Either, 1 Ih. soda — 5-0 qts. boiling- water 
or, 1 lb. potash — qts. cold water 

To Bleach Wood. — Add to eitlier soda or potash solution 1 lb. 
quicklime, using cold water to mix, and apply to bleach wood. 
Oxalic acid will also whiten wood if applied long enough ; it is espe- 
cially good to remove spots like ink or stains of wear from floors. 
Use the acid about concentrated and to a room 15 x 30 ft. about foui 
pounds will be needed. The acid is a POISON. 

To Use a Filler. — " Fillers " are used for wood before finish- 
ing. A filler is made of boiled linseed oil (1 pint), turpentine 
(fi/ij qts.), and whiting or cornstarch (1 pint of either, or both 
mixed half and half). This makes a white filler which must be 
darkened for dark wood, as follows : 

For oak, use about 1 teaspoon raw umber. 

(1 tsp. burnt sienna 
For nialiogany use J 14 tsp. yellow oolire 

[i/^tsp. Bismarck brown 

II tsp. burnt umber 
1/4 tsp. Venetian red 
V^ tsp. yellow ochre 

Test all colors on a board and if too light add more coloring; if 
too dark, add more oil and turpentine. 

To Stain. — Various stains may be bought, and as there are 
so many good ones, it seems unwise to try to make them, and so 
spend time uselessly, unless one knows definitely that good results 
may be obtained. One homemade stain is very satisfactory and 
easily made by using 14 ^^^- potassium permanganate crystals and 
■i quarts of wa.ter. This stain turns brown soon after mixing aild 
may be tested on a l)oard or folded newspaper. Let the stain dry 
thorough^, and then rub the wood with oil or wax, or varnish. Do 
not use for two or three days, and then polish the oiled or wa^xed 
wood again, and the results will be most satisfactory. The var- 
nished floor needs only to set and harden to resist wear before 
being used. 

To Oil. — Oil should be used to renew an oiled surface. Apply 



292 HOUSEWIFERY 

the Iciuoii Dil, ])ariiirm oil, or lioilcd linseed nil hy riil)l)in<,'' in circles 
and ])()lisli hy I'lihhin*? in straight lines with the grain of the wood. 

To Wax. — lleniove every particle of dirt, which must be done 
hel'orc anything is put on any wood. Wax an oiled or waxed surface. 
Any spots rna.y he removed with a soft wooleu cloth and turpentine, 
and it' the spots are very persistent, use a little rottenstone well 
mixed with the tur])entiiic. Wax by a])])lying a very thin coating 
of i>repared wax (p. 295) and then rub. Use a piece of donlet flannel 
or a weighted brush. For table tops the worker's hand is best. When 
the worker is sure she has rul)l)ed enough, rub some more. 

To Shellac or Varnish. — Use good quality materials and be 
careful to have both shellac and varnish very thin, in no way thick 
enough to be sticky. Apply with a clean brush in straight lines, 
and just as far as possible in continuous, non-lifting strokes. Good 
shellac work is quite dependent upon the stroke of the worker, for 
if a short, irregidar, lifting stroke is used, shellac will stick and turn 
white. In other words, keep the stroke so even and continuous that 
air does not get under the brush. W^aterproof varnish may be used 
on wooden floors in rooms where Avater plays an important part, 
such as the kitchen, bathroom, or laundry; and also in halls and 
vestibules. 

To Remove Scratches. — Often a good furniture polish will 
cover up the scratches, because it contains dye or stain enough to 
darken the wood which has been bared by a scratch. If one has no 
prepared furniture polish, rub Avith lemon oil or lioiled linseed oil. 
Scratches on mahogany may be retouched with a little permanganate 
of potash. Its use as a wood dye has just been stated. If the scratch 
is to be polished, rub -!^he spot arefully with fine grade sandpaper 
or steel wool, and then brush away every particle of dust formed by 
sandpapering. Make a pad by folding a small wad of cotton in a 
soft cloth free from lint. Wet the pad with paraffin oil and then 
shellac. Touch the surface v;ith the pad, using no pressure but a 
sliding stroke. Do not lift the pad when rubbing as air will cloud 
the shellac. Several repetitions may be necessary for the color 
desired. 

To Remove Dents or Bruises. — This kind of a bruise is 
deeper than skin deep. It means that the layers of wood have been 
packed down by the force of a knock or fall. If not too deep a 
bruise, it is possible to oil and rub, and darken the bruise so that it 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 293 

is little noticed. If the dent is deeper than this, moisten soft thin 
blotting; paper in hot water and gently apply heat by means of a 
hot iron. The moistnre and heat swells the wood and the dented 
part rises. This would not be possible with veneer, which is only a 
thin wood surface finish, glued to a wood backing. 

To Remove Water Spots. — Often the radiator leaks, or in 
some other way water has been spilled on wood; the water mark 
left is a filmy gray spot. It is easily removed with a few drops of 
household ammonia on a cloth. Moisten the cloth, add two or 
three drops of ammonia, and rub the spot with a clean cloth. Polish 
afterwards with oil and a soft cloth. 

To Remove Alcohol Spots. — Fortunately an alcohol spot is 
not deep, and often a quick rubbing at once with a cloth or even 
with the fingers, rather than lose time looking for the cloth, will 
return the finish. Lemon, linseed or prepared oil on a cloth and 
good rubbing will help to restore an old spot. Rottenstone and lin- 
seed oil, rubbing in circles, keeping plenty of oil to lubricate the 
rottenstone, will bring up a polish. The rottenstone must float in 
the oil, or it will scratch. 

To Clean Water Spots on Waxed Floors. — Eub in circles 
with turpentine and flannel cloth. The turpentine cleans, and will 
partially soften the wax so that it gives up its dirt. 

To Clean Painted, Varnished, and Oiled Wood. — ^Use linseed 
oil and petroleum, and rub with a soft cloth, following with a clean 
polishing cloth. 

To Polish Wood. — Eub with turpentine and linseed oil in equal 
]iroportions. It will polish like wax and not be so slippery. If this 
mixture is used to rub unpolished wood and the rubbing is continued 
long enough, the polish will he beautiful, with soft satiny lustre, 
much prettier than any shellac or varnish could produce. 

Painting. — Paint can be renovated by cleaning either with clear 
water, with whiting, or whiting and water, but actually to renovate 
it will require repainting. To do this, either scrape off, burn off, 
or with washing soda or some patent remover wash off, all the old 
])aint. If this is not to be done, as in the case of repainting bread 
boxes, enamelled shelves, etc., the loose paint should be scratched 
oft' witli fine sandpaper. This should bring the spots where the 
paint is off to a smooth level witli tlie paint surrounding th(Mn. 
Touch these uiu*overed spots witli tbe paint (Jrst^ g"'"g '''1 over the 



294 HOUSEWIFERY 

article to be painted. \Mu'ii this coat is dry, paint the whole surface 
with one coat; when thoroughly di'v, j>ut on the second coat, if it 
is white enamel paint that is to be used, a better finish and a more 
economical piece of Avork will be accomplished by usiiig two coats of 
house paint, and then one or two of enamel paint. Enamel paint will 
go on very irregularly if pat directly on tlie unpainted surface. 

To Glue Furniture. — Buy a standard glue, and if it seems 
thick and stringy, stand in hot water until it has thinned with 
the heat. Clean the two pieces to he glued, as glue will not adhere 
to old glue. Vinegar will remove old glue. Apply glue to both 
pieces and fit perfectly. There is no need to use so much glue as 
to have it j)rotrude beyond the mend. A little warm water will 
remove the surplus, only do not let it mix "with the glue and thin it. 
When the mend has been made, some press or support must be used 
to hold the pieces tightly together. As cord often marks, tapes 
or pieces of torn cloth with sometimes a straight " splint '" makes 
a good 1)andage for a break until the glue sets. Iron clamps, for 
holding furniture together while glueing, may be purchased at small 
cost. 

Wickerware. — Wickerware can be stained or painted just like 
wood, the main precaution being to put the stain on in two light 
coats, instead of one dark one, so that where the wicker overlaps 
in the pattern, the dye will not be too dark. It will be fomid 
troublesome to paint the wicker unless the paint is used rather 
thin. Use turpentine to thin the oil stain, and test the color on 
an under side where, if the color is over dark, it will not be noticed. 
Stain or paint on newspaper gives one a very good idea of the degree 
of color tone. Do not use water stain. 

Table Tops. — Table tops will have to be sandpapered to pro- 
duce a new finish. Before tliis is done a certain amount of bleaching 
can be done by using soda to extract grease; and follow this wdth 
several scrubbings to overcome the yellowness from the soda. To 
sandpaper, use fine-grained sandpaper; by folding it on a block 
of wood, it can be used more easily as well as more economically. 
To stain an old table : Sandpaper it down to as near one tone of 
color as possil)le. Apply the stain, as an oil stain, making two 
applications of a thinner stain rather than one' of a thicker dye. 
This oil stain should sink into the table and when dry, it may 
be rubbed with wax. 



CLEANING AND RENOVATION 295 

Old tables can be covered -with a thin oilcloth which will last 
for a considerable time. x\ heavy jjiece of linoleum will give longer 
service. 

Receipt for Prepared Wax. — Use any prepared wax; or melt 
1/4 lb. beeswax over water, and when melted remove from the fire and 
stir in one pint of tuq^entine. Stir until the mixture is like a thick 
batter, when it is ready to put into a jar and be used as needed. 
The hand is the best wax rubber, as its warmth softens the wax. 
The soft outing flannel may be used, and in either case put on a thin 
layer and rub. The finish is all in the rubbing; there cannot be 
too much. 

RENOVATING SUNDRY JMATERIALS 

Lacquered Ware. — Lacquered ware may be washed by using a 
soft cloth or a sjoonge which has been wrung nearly dry out of warm 
soapsuds. Rinse with clear cold water, wipe off all the soap, and 
then polish with a dry soft cloth. Do not put into the water. 
Wiping a lacquered bed or desk set with thin oil will do much to 
keep it from scratching and it also prevents the lacquer from drying 
and cracking. 

Brass mountings are usually covered over with a fine lacquer 
finish. This lacquer in some measure jDrotects the brass, although 
tarnish is gradually produced by the air. Perspiration of the hands 
and cleaning will finally remove the lacquer; then the surface 
must be either refinished or polished. To reburnish and refinish is 
often quite expensive, as in the case of knobs and handles and 
brass beds. The housewife may polish by using fine rottenstone 
and sweet oil. Mix these two together as a paste; rub with a 
light, even stroke, being sure to use plenty of oil so as to prevent 
the rottenstone from scratching. The success of the work depends 
entirely upon the gentleness and evenness of the stroke. The house- 
wife may find that it is advisable to try first the oil finish or one 
of the metal polishers for fear that the untrained worker will rub 
too hard with the rottenstone. 

Plaster Casts. — Plaster casts that have a dull finish are often 
seriously harmed by water, so that frequent dry dusting and never 
handling the cast with soiled hands, is the first and best care. To 
renew a plaster cast, cover with fine whiting and magnesia, or 
fullers' earth. This may be applied without rubbing, but in order 



290 HOUSEWIFERY 

tliiit all of the surface lie covered it iiiav be patted on with a soft 
cloth or soft (M)ttoii. Ivoll tlic cast in a cloth, and let it remain for 
se\eral davs ; brush olf with a soft lu'ush, beiuu- cai'cful not to ruh 
hard. This will do much towards clean in<(, hut there is no special 
way to remove stains without chan^'iii;^" the color of the cast. 

Oil Paintings. — With a soft sponi^e oi' cloth wrung out of warm 
soapsuds (not hot), wasli the paintinjf by washing a small strip 
each time and then wiping it. After tlie painting is clean, apply 
a thin coating of linseed oil with a soft cloth, either cheesecloth 
or outing flannel, or even a bit of gauze into which a little cotton 
has been folded. Put this on evenly, and the oil will sink in, doing 
somewhat as it does with leather, keeping the paintings free from 
cracking. If the painting is to be varnished later, it should be 
varnished two or three days after it has been oiled. The best oil 
and the best varnish should, be used. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. If a mattrpss is spotted, what simple methods may be used to clean it 

witliout wasliino' it? 

2. How may lacquered bread boxes be freshened and made like new? 

3. How may gi-ease spots be removed from carpets? 

4. If a hot water faucet leaks and steams the bathroom so tdiat the walls 

are darkened and the wood work wdiitened, how may both be renewed 
to original condition ? 

5. How may brass handles on an old bureau be refinished bv the house- 

wife ? 
fi. How may a window sill be refinished after havino; had paper stuck to it? 
7. Given cretonne draperies, how may tlicy be cleansed in the home? 

REFERENCES 

Balderstox, L. Ray, LAUNPERrr^o. L. Ray Balderston. 

Brams't, William T., Dry Cleaner, Scourer and Garment Dyer. H. C. 

Baird tt Co. 
Clark, T. M., Care of the House. Macmillan Co. 
IjANG and Whittlesey, Removal of Stains from Clothing and Other 

Textiles. U. S. Department of Ajiriculture. Farmers' Bulletin No. 861. 
Parloa, Maria. Home Economics. Centairy Co. 
Rankin, Margaret, Science of Laundry Work. Blackie & Son, London. 



CHAPTER XI 

DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 

In this day of preventive treatment rather than cures, why not 
apply the idea to the home ? Why not try to ward off the need of 
disinfectants and fumigants as cures, by adopting effective pre- 
ventive measures? The housewife should attack the sanitation 
problems of the home daily as a housekeeper, rather than prepare 
for special emergencies which must be met with heroic measures. 
Various points which concern disinfection and fumigation have 
been suggested in the chapters on Plumbing, Houseliold Pests, 
and Cleaning. The following outline states some of the practical 
preventive measures to be taken by the housewdfe in her daily work. 

PREVENTIVE MEASURES IN HOUSEHOLD SANITATION 

A. The Grounds about the House. — Cover all rain barrels 
and cisterns to prevent breeding of mosquitoes ; put a film of kerosene 
on pools of water during the summer. 

Screen all privies to prevent flies from carrying disease. 

Test all water for purity. 

Carry all 'waste water far enough from the house and from cis- 
terns and wells to prevent contamination. 

Clean and sterilize by whitewashing all outhouses — cow stalls, 
pig pens, chicken coops, etc. 

B. The Cellar. — Ventilate the cellar by providing two or more 
open windows, to keep it dry and hence sanitary as a storage room, 
and as a foundation to the house; if there is but one window, open 
half of it and run an air flue from the other half to a point near 
the cellar floor. 

Whitewash the walls and ceiling of the cellar; this cleans and 
sterilizes. 

Place a concrete floor in the cellar to i)romote dryness. 

C. The Kitchen. — Keep the kitchen well aired, because this will 
keep it cooler. 

Keep the sink clean, as soiled pipes not only produce odors, but 
may draw vermin. 

Scald all milk bottles and pans, air well, and keep clean. 

Keep the refrigerator free from old food, lest the food decay 
and become a breeding place for bacteria. 

297 



298 HOUSEWIFERY 

Wash the ice before ])iitliii-i- it into the refi'i<,a'rator, lest it 
carry in mi necessary dirt. 

Empty the garbage can each chiy, wash, and air it. 

If garbage is not used as food for animals, or removed by the 
community, it should be buried to be used as fertilizer, or burned 
to avoid its attracting vermin or puifcfying. 

D. The Laundry. — Keep soiled clothes dry and well aired until 
washed. Wash often enough to prevent any chance of odors from 
soiled clothes. Clean clothes, fresh from the laundry, are safe, 
whereas soiled clothes may carry the risk of disease, and may attract 
vermin. 

Isolate and wash separately all clothing that has been used in 
connection with colds or any other sickness. As a precaution wash 
laundry bags and clean clothes l)askets. 

E. The Bedroom. — Air Ijeds at the same time that the rooms 
are being aired, half an hour to an hour. 

Kee]) Ix'ds free from dust, as dust invites vermin. 

F. The House in General. — Prevent the collecting of dust, 
which not only makes the liouse untidy, l)ut draws many kinds of 
small household pests. 

Do all dusting with dampened or oiled dusters or sweepers, so as 
not to spread the dust. 

DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 

Every housewife should be acquainted with disinfectants and 
fumigants, because drains, garbage cans, and ice boxes need them; 
and cellars must be kept free from chance causes of odors or sick- 
ness. One must be ready for the unexpected need of an exter- 
minator for vermin, or the need of a disinfectant or fumigant during 
and after the appearance of disease. 

The terms disinfectants, germicides, fumigants, and the like are 
often used without an understanding of the terms ; indeed, they seem 
often to be used interchangeably. 

Disinfectants and germicides are sul)stances which destroy dis- 
ease germs. Antiseptics retard the growth of germs, Imt do not 
necessarily destroy germ life. Salt and sugar may preserve food 
by retarding germ action but they do not destroy the germ. Bichlo- 
ride of mercury (corrosive sublimate) is an antiseptic if used in a 
solution of 1 part to 300,000 parts of water, and is a disinfectant in 
a solution of 1 part to 1000 parts of water (1 tablet to 1 pint of 



DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 299 

water) ; the latter destroys germ life. Both solutions are poisons. 
Fumigants and deodorants destroy or cover up odors, and may 
disinfect. 

In nature there are many powerful and safe disinfectants : sun- 
light, dryness, cleanliness, and heat — so-called physical means of 
disinfection. Dry air and sunlight are foes to germs; moisture 
and filth are their best friends. With sunlight, cleanliness, and dry 
air, decaying vegetation and filth diminish, and in the same measure 
the chance for health increases. Heat like oven heat up to 300^ 
Fahrenheit, or boiling temperature of 213° Fahrenheit for one 
hour, will thoroughly disinfect. To test oven heat witliout a ther- 
mometer, lay a small wad of cotton in the oven; at 300° Fahrenheit, 
the cotton will scorch as if ironed with too hot an iron. Boiling 
for ten minutes in a closed vessel' destroys all disease germs except 
the spores, which may later develop into germs, and makes disin- 
fecting of clothing jjossiblc. In the laundering of clothing various 
alkaline reagents are used which increase the disinfecting power of 
the water, and decrease the length of time required for disinfecting 
ordinary soiled clothing. Many of our household cleaning methods 
fortunately are disinfecting methods. 

Let the study begin with these simple everyday methods. They 
are effective and inexpensive ; besides, the substances are so familiar 
as to cause no hesitancy in their use. 

Soap, borax, ammonia, and washing soda are sufficient in the 
cleaning of ice-boxes, window boxes, basins, and flush closets which 
are to be cleaned daily. 

Soapsuds Solution. — One cake of soap dissolved in 3 quarts of 
water. 

Soda Solution. — One-half pound of washing soda dissolved in 3 
gallons of water. Either solution may be used for wall or floor 
washes, when a room is to be disinfected. Such a solution is easily 
applied with a pail of hot water and a broom or mop. 

It has been proved that the usual methods employed in washing- 
clothes disinfect the clothing for general use. A good laundering 
with soap and water, five to ten minutes boil or hot scald, the sun 
and air in drying, and finally, the heat of the iron in ironing, are 
sufficient for disinfecting clothing. 

Lime in its various forms is especially good as a disinfectant 
or germicide. It is cheap and harmless. 

QuicTc-Ume is lime oxide, and has great power of absorbing water. 



300 HOUSEWIFERY 

On exposure to the air it absorl)s so iiuieh water that it breaks up 
iuto a powdered form called air-slaked lime. Quick-lime is often 
put about damp cellars and outhouses because of this power to absorb 
moisture. When it breaks down into a powder, it has no more 
power, to absorb water from the air, and no more power as a 
germicide. 

Slalicd lime (hydrated lime) and iiiilL: of lime are used to dis- 
infect excreta. A 5 per cent, solution of slaked lime will require one 
hour to do its work thoroughly, 

Wliitewasli is slaked lime thinned with water until it is of tiie 
consistency to spread with a brush. Adding glue heljis to make the 
whitewash stick to the surface. Whitewash is much used on fences, 
outhouses, cellars, and chicken coops, to kill bacteria and vennin, 
to deodorize, and to improA'e appearance. 

Recipe for Wliifeuash''' 
% bu. lime slaked witli boiling water 
% peck of salt dissolved in warm water 
3 lbs. ground rice boiled to a thin paste 
1/2 lb. powdered Spanish whiting 
1 lb. clear glue, dissolved in warm water 
Mix: and let stand for several days. Use hot as possible. 

Lime water may be used to rinse milk pans and bottles, and 
chambers. A 3 per cent, solution is known to kill typhoid bacteria, 
and a 20 per cent, solution Avill disinfect excreta. This requires 
from one-half to one hour. 

Cliloiinated lime, commonly called chloride of lime, and sold 
as a bleaching powder, is a disinfectant when used dry as when 
put dowTi basins and toilets. As a bleaching solution, when used 
in washing, it not only bleaches but disinfects. It deteriorates 
rapidly on exposure to the air. 

Hydrogen peroxide is an unstable compound, which is readily 
affected by light and heat. Therefore it should be kept in dark- 
colored glass bottles, and tightly corked. It is especially good for 
use in connection Avith discharging wounds to disinfect the suppura- 
tion products. It is not used so much as formerly as a general dis- 
infectant for wounds, or as a gargle, on accomit of its irritating 
effect on the membranes. Its action is over in about five minutes. 

Alcohol. — Alcohol above 50 per cent, strength is a good disin- 
fectant for the hands, or for a needle that is to be used to remove 
a splinter. 

* U. S. Bureau of Standards, Dept. of Commerce; (.'ircular No. 70. 



DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 301 

The preceding disinfectants liavc been those used in regular 
liome methods. The ones given below are stronger in action and 
poisonous. Great care should be exercised in their use, and it is 
quite necessary that the one doing the work should be thoroughly 
trained for her task. For two reasons is this necessary — the chance 
for a fatal mistake, and the risk of having an essential point omitted 
so that doubt enters into the point as to whether the work is thor- 
oughly done. 

Tincture of iodine is very good to apply to any fresh wound 
vrhicli may later be infected, such as an open bruise, a cat scratch, or 
a cut from a rusty nail. It is bought in a 7 per cent, solution, and 
may be used in this strength or in half-strength. 

Bichloride of mercury, or corrosive sublimate, is purchased in 
tablet form. It is a poison and should be handled as such, with 
the greatest care, and when not in use should be so stored or bottled 
that no one can possibly mistake it for medicine. To tie a small toy 
bell around the neck of the bottle is a good safeguard, especially for 
dark places. (White of egg is the antidote.) It is a powerful 
disinfectant, but limited as to its use because soap, proteins, and 
sulphur precipitate it. It will not stain fabrics, except after constant 
and long-continued soaking. But it does corrode metal, and so 
cannot be used for disinfecting any metal utensil. Its best use is for 
the disinfection of smooth surfaces such as rubber, enamel and 
glassware, and for clean hands. For the hands a solution of 1 
tablet (71/2 grains) to 2 pints of water should be used. Do not 
mix in a metal dish. For other disinfection use 1 tablet to 1 pint 
of water. Allow from one-half to one hour for disinfection of 
things placed in the solution. 

Formalin is a water solution of formaldehyde gas, valuable as 
a disinfectant. It is second to bichloride of mercury as a disin- 
fectant of rubber, and is good for clothing and utensils. It may be 
purchased at the drug store as a 40 per cent, solution and reduced 
to a 4 per cent, solution (by adding some of it to ten times its bulk 
of water), which is the strengtli used for disinfection. Soak the 
articles in this 4 per cent, solution for one hour. 

Carbolic Acid Solution (Antidote — Alcohol). — The usual 
strength in which this is- used is 5 per cent. — in the proportion of 
1 lb. of carbolic crystals to 2% gals, of hot water. Stir or shake in 
a corked bottle until the mixture is free from the small drop for- 
mation on the bottom of the vessel. Exposure for one hour to a 



302 



HOUSEWIFERY 



5 per cent, solution is usually ell'ective for bacteria, not for spores. 
In cleanijig slop-jars and chambers use a string mop, as carbolic 
is very irritating to the skin. It is generally used to disinfect articles 
that cannot be boiled ; articles, like clothing and bedding, which can 
be boiled, can be completely sterilized by boiling in water witiiout the 
use of carbolic acid. 

Creolin, lysol or cresol, and tricresol are coal-tar products 
used in jjlacc of carbolic acid. Creolin lias about the same value 
as pure carbolic, and lysol and tricresol arc about three times as 
powerful. They are less irritating to the skin, but are more expen- 
sive than carbolic. Use a 1 per cent, or 2 per cent, solution dis- 
solved in tepid water. 



Table of Disinfectants 





Strength 


Time 


Used for 






H-l hr... 


All articles that are not 






harmed by water. 


Slaked lime 


2 lb. Hme to 1 pt. 
water 


1 hr 


Excreta. 


Milk of lime 


2 lb slaked lime to 




Excreta. 


4 qt. water 






Lime water 


3^ cup lime to 4 qt. 


^^-Ihr... 


Rinsing milk vessels 




water 




and chambers ; ty- 
phoid bacteria. 


Chlorinated lime 
(chloride of lime) 


^2 lb chloride of 




F ush closets, basins, 


lime to 1 gal. 




bleaching. 




water 






Hydrogen peroxide. . 


Undiluted 


5 min .... 


Discharging wounds. 


Alcohol 


50 per cent. -70 per 
cent. 


1 min. . . . 


Hands, instrmiients. 


Tmcture of iodine . . 


7 per cent., or 1 part 


1 min. . . . 


Fresh wound where 




7 per cent, solu- 




danger of infection. 




tion 1 part water 








1 tablet (7H gr.) 
2 pt. water 




Hands. 


mercury 






(b) 


1 tablet to 1 pt. 


32-1 hr... 


Clothing, rubber, 




water 




enamel, glassware. 


Formalin, 4 per cent. 


1 cup 40 per cent. 


1 hr 


Rubber, clothing, 




solution to 5 pt. 




utensils. 




water 






Carbolic acid 


5 per cent 


1 hr 


Clothing that cannot 








be boiled. 


Creolin 


[l-2 per cent 


M-lhr... 




Lysol or cresol 


Same as carbolic. 


Tricresol 









DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 303 

FUJVHGANTS 

Fumigants- are agents which give off a gas which is destructive 
to bacteria or to vermiu. They are uot used as much as formerly 
after contagious diseases like measles. In ordinary contagious dis- 
eases the main reliance now is placed upon thorough soap and 
water cleaning. If of real value, fumigants must be strong in the 
gas they give off; this makes it dangerous for an untrained person 
to carry on the work, and under ordinary conditions the results will 
scarcely pay her for her lahor and attendant risk. However, it is 
well for the housewife to know about these agents, for they are useful 
in their ability to destroy vermin; and she may, in the absence of 
a trained nurse or a Board of Health representative, be called upon 
to fumigate a room after sickness. It is important for her to be 
thoroughly informed as to the method 1:)efore she undertakes to do 
the work. 

Formaldehyde gas and sulphur fumes are the usual fumigants. 
The sulphur is most often used to exterminate household pests, 
while formaldehyde is a valuable disinfectant, but does not kill 
vermin. 

Formaldehyde gas may be produced in several ways. One espe- 
cially effective way is to combine potassium permanganate with 
formalin. Allow one-half pound of potassimn permanganate to each 
1000 cu. ft. of air space. To every half-pound of permanganate 
allow 1 pint of formalin. Prepare the room as for any fumigation 
(see page 304), and when all is ready, put the permanganate in a 
galvanized iron kettle or pan, which is set upon bricks or in water 
to protect the floor from heat; pour on the formalin and imme- 
diately leave the room. The formaldehyde gas is given off, which 
is most irritating to the mucous membrane and is poisonous. Its 
penetrative power is not very great, so that it is necessary for every- 
thing in the room to be entirely exposed to its action. 

Park and Williams * give the formulae for formaldehyde gener- 
ation found on page 30-i. 

Sulphur Fumes. — Sulphur is not very effective in destroying 
germs, but it is very valuable in the extermination of pests. Sul- 
phur fumigation involves the danger of fire as well as of inhaling 
the poisonous fumes. A sulphur candle or flowers of sulphur 

* Park and Williams, Pathogenic Microorganisms. 



304 HOUSEWIFERY 

may be used; the candle- is easily obtained and the wick helps to 
keep it burning. For flowers of sulphur pour on a tablespoon or 
more of alcohol to insure its burning; the worker will not then 
need to go into the room to relight the sulphur, and expose herself to 
the fumes. Allow 4 lbs. of sulphur to every lUOO cu. ft. of air 
space. Expose eight to twelve hours. 

Two Formulw (or Formaldehyde (leneration 
Either will disinfect 1000 cu. ft. in a hours. 

I. Potassium permanganate . 10 o/.. 

Formaldehyde solution, 40 jjer cent !> o/.. 

Water 4..") oz. 

II. Quicklime 2 oz. 

Potassium permanganate o oz. 

Oxalic acid i/L- gram 

Formalin .1 oz. 

Water 'i '4 oz. 

Mix lime and potassium permanganate in pan. Pour over this the 
remaining substances in solution. 

Hydrocyanic acid gas is effective in destroying household 
pests, but is one of tlie most poisonous gases known, and for that 
reason work with it should be done only by an experienced person. 

To Prepare a Room for Fumigation.^ — Knowledge on the part 
of the worker is necessary, and when she is thoroughly trained to 
do the work she will not need to be cautioned against either fire 
danger or the risk of inhaling the fumes. Get all the things in 
the room ready. Arrange the contents of the room so that every- 
thing will be exposed to the gas. Bedding should be hung over a 
line. Do not remove from the room anything that was there during 
the illness. If sulphur is used, the metal door knobs and bed should 
have a thin coating of fresh (non-salty) fat. Sulphur will corrode 
metal and will fade color; but colored fabrics may have to be left 
in, subject to fading, in order to run no risk of leaving germs or 
vermin in draperies, etc. 

Seal the room by closing the window and door cracks with paper 
or cotton, and stopping the key-holes. Put the potassium perman- 
ganate, the potassium cyanide, or the sulphur candle, in a galvanized 
pail or stone crock. Stand the pail or crock on two bricks or in a 
larger pan of -water, so that the heat created by the chemical action 
or from the l)urning sulphur may have no chance to burn the floor 
or other surrounding material. Pour the formalin on the perman- 



DISINFECTANTS AND FUMIGANTS 



305 



ganate, or the sulphuric acid and water on the cyanide, or light the 
sulphur, and go quickly from the room. The door may be addi- 
tionally sealed on the outside after closing it. Be sure to have 
everything so planned and ready that there will be no need to hesitate 
or to try to go back. For a person who may be slow from inexperi- 
ence, it is a good safeguard to tie a moist handkerchief over the 
nose and mouth. The room should be kept closed for eight to twelve 
hours; then it must be thoroughly aired and cleaned, so that no 
fumes remain. 

SUGOBSTIVE LIST OF HOUSEHOLD DISINFECTANTS 

The above suggestions include established solutions and methods 
of fumigating and disinfecting. Through advertising, various new 
disinfectants and f umigants may reach the housewife ; but the sim- 
plest and most active have been suggested. Additional problems 
regarding household pests are given in Chapter XII (page 307) 
and that chapter and this may well be considered together. 



Salt and water 

Listerine 

Potassium permanganate 

Boiling water 
Soap and water 
Soda and water 
Lime 

Carbolic acid 
Creolin 

Lysol or cresol 
Tricresol 

Alcohol 

Tincture of iodine 

Carbolic acid 

Lysol and tricresol 

Formalin ' 

Bichloride of mercury 

Sulphur 

Hydrocyanic acid gas 
Formaldehyde gas 



are standard mouth washes, and 
tliey may be used in a dilute 
form as a gargle. 



are standard solutions for 
washing, cleaning and disin- 
fecting cuspidors, cliambers, 
flush closets, clothing. 



are standard killers of germs 
such as may produce disease. 



are standard f umigants. 



SUGOESTIVE QUESTIONS 

What precautions can every housewife take in caring for soiled 
clothing? 
Suppose one member of a family must nurse another who has a severe 
nose and throat cold. What care should the well member take for 
her own safety. List all suggestions. 

20 



306 HOUSEWIFERY 

3. What are the usual ways and means whereby contagion may lie spread? 

List. 

4. How may a lied lie treated after a severe sickness? 

REFERENCES 

Broadiiurst, Jean, IIo.mi: a.\u Community Hygiene. J. B. Lippincott 

Company. 
Buchanan, Esteixe D., anu Roueut E., Household IUcteriolooy. :Mac- 

millan Co. 
Conn, H. W., Bacteria, Yeasts, and Molds. Ginn & Co. 
Dakin and Dunham, Handbook of Antiseptics. Macmillan Co. 
Elliot, S. Maria, Household Hygiene. American Scliool of Home 

Economics. 
LiPMAN, J. G., Bacteria in Relation to Country Life. Macmillan Co. 
Maxwell and Pope, Practical Nursing. G.. P. Putnam & Co. 
Richards, E. H., Sanitation and Daily Life. Whitcomb & Barrows. 
Talbot, Marion, House Sanitation. Whitcomb & Barrows. 



CHAPTER XII 
HOUSEHOLD PESTS 

Prevention, — Household pests are trouljlesome, dangerous, and 
desti-uctive ; therefore they call for constant vigilance. They crawl 
or fly, hide in dark unexpected nooks, and often come from filthy 
]ilaees. They reproduce so rapidly that they are much easier to 
keep out than to exterminate after they have gained a foothold. 
Eternal vigilance is the price of preventing pests. 

Prevention means to fill up cracks and holes, allow no dust to 
collect or spilled food to remain, keep food tightly covered, use 
screens or traps, fill up stagnant pools, cover rain barrels, keep house 
leaders free from stagnant water, screen or fumigate manure piles, 
and use insecticide in garbage containers, privies, and manure piles. 
The cleanest house, however, may gain the unexpected visitor in 
the grocery basket, laundry bundle, or even in the valise when 
travelling. Cleanliness is the one great preventive measure, but not 
the absolute cure, because of the possibility of this miexpected 
entrance of vermin. 

Extermination becomes a cure of a more heroic nature and 
involves much work, and often the use of some powerful agent. 
Methods of extermination include closing runways and cracks; use 
of powders, fumes, poisons, and traps. 

Closing runways is accomplished by using putty, plaster-of- 
Paris, wooden strips, etc. 

Putty is the best agent to use with wood. It may be bought 
at the paint shop, and colored to match the wood. If the cracks 
are not too large, putty will make a good filling; but very wide 
cracks had better have a strip of wood put in, with putty on each 
side of the strip. Molding may often be used to advantage. 

Plaster-of-Paris is also used to fill cracks; it is bought as a 
powder, and is mixed with water when and as it is needed. It 
hardens almost immediately. It can be mixed in an old cup or tin 
cover, or even in a cardboard box. Just as it is to be used and in such 
small quantities as can be handled quickly. It is very white, and 
may be colored to match the rest of the wall or floor; any coloring 

307 



308 HOUSEWIFERY 

desired may be put into the water before mixiiit^ it with the 
plastcr-ot'-l'aris. 

Powders. — The second step, A\hich calls for the use of non- 
poisonous and non-intlaminable methods, is by spreading powder 
such as Ijorax, alum, soap powder, or eveu pepper. Next to these iu 
strength arc pyrethrum, Persian insect powder, and bulach — a Cali- 
fornia product. The next in strength and last of the powders to use 
are strychnine and arsenic. These should be used with the greatest 
care and only as the last resort, as they are dangerous poisons. 

Powder can be sprinkled in cracks and about shelves or drawers ; 
on shelves try to keep it on the back edge so that it will not mix 
with the contents of the shelf. It is wise to blow the powder far 
back into cracks, and for that work, one may buy a blower which 
by means of its bellows blows the powder deep into crevices. 

Strychnine and arsenic may be used as powders, or in a solution 
with a'}taint brush or feather. To be sure of better control of these 
poisons, either may be mixed with a paste made of flour and water 
and spread on strips of paper, which in turn are laid in drawers 
or closets or on tables and drain boards, especially at night. The 
great danger of using these powerful poisons in the kitchen is 
obvious, and should be carefully considered beforehand. 

Fumes. — In the place of powders, remedies with strong pungent 
odor may be used, such as kerosene or ammonia, and also those that 
are not only pungent but also highly inflammahle, such as gasoline 
or benzine. The danger of these last two is the risk of fire, and both 
should 1)6 used out of doors as much as possible; or if indoors, with 
all windows open and ahsolutely no fire or open flame of any kind 
about. Poisonous gas fumes such as sulphur, fonnalin, or hydro- 
cyanic acid gas may be used, but it is liest always to try thoroughly 
the simplest and safest methods first, using the inflammable or 
poisonous only as a last resort. 

Kerosene, ammonia, or carbolic acid may be used in wash water, 
or by themselves as washes on the floors and in the closets. They 
should 1)6 applied with a paint brush in order to save the hand. 

Inflammables. — The usual method of using gasoline or benzine 
is to saturate the articles of clothing or upholstery by spraying it 
in with a sprinkler, or a brush, or by pouring it on to soak the place 
where the vermin have deposited their eggs. To do this work, the 
greatest care must be exercised ; a careless worker should never be 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 309 

allowed to do it. The work is best doue out of doors and usually 
mattresses, pillows, clothing, etc., can be carried outside. To do 
the work on the lawn will kill the grass, so work on a walk or gravel 
path. Be sure to let the gasoline all evaporate before using the 
article; alx)ut twenty-four hours should be allowed for this. Don't 
light matches or bring any light to see ivhetlier the gasoline is 
destroying the pest. It may destroy you. 

Sulphur, Formalin. — These fumes are very pungent and irri- 
tating to the nasal passage, besides being poisonous, if inhaled. 
Sulphur fumes will bleach out color, so that carpets and any color in 
the room may be effected. Metal beds and all door knobs will have 
to be covered with a thin coating of lard or fresh fat to keep the 
sulphur from corroding the metal. Formalin is used for fumigat- 
ing, and is a germicide. (See chapter on Fumigation, page 303.) 

Traps and Screens. — These exterminators are in a class by 
themselves. They may or may not kill; often they simply prohibit 
action, as do many traps, mosquito nets, etc. With some traps 
there is a sweet attractive mixture which may contain a poison. 
Some traps operate by killing. Any trap should be kept clean 
because, as in mouse and rat traps, the odor may be a warning to the 
otherwise next victim; scalding is helpful in removing odors. 

IISTDIVIDUAL PESTS 

House Fly. — A carrier of disease, hence a menace to health 
(Fig. 163). 

Prevention. — 1. Do away with breeding places of maggots in 
manure piles, chicken yards, privy vaults. Build fly-proof. De- 
stroy maggots with kerosene, borax, chloride of lime, hellebore, 
iron sulphate. 

2. Screen all windows and doors, especially kitchen and dining- 
room. 

3. Absolute cleanliness in house. 

4. Keep food and garbage containers tightly covered. 

5. Store no soiled papers and cloths. 
Extermination. — 1. "Swat the fly." 

2. Sticky flypaper. 

3. Fly traps — various good types. A good home-made trap 
consists of a cup or can on the end of a stick with liot soapy 
water in cup ; hold under flies on ceiling. 



310 



HOUSEWIFERY 



4. Natural eiieiny is tlie (•eiitijx'do. 

5. Poisons: to get best results i'vnm these remedies, darken the 
room except one M'indow; place poison in lif^-lit near this window. 

Pyrcthruui. — Persian insect powder and hulach. Sprinkle lib- 
erally at night in niiused rooms. Sweep up in morning. 

Formaldehyde- — 1 i)art formahh'hyde to 10 ])arts wattn'. l^lace 
in saucers. 

Bichromale of Folasli. — 1 pai't bichromate to 'I parts water. 
Place in saucers. 




Fig. 163. — The house fly, Musca domestica: larva witli details at riglit, puparium at left 

Mosquitoes. — Carriers of malaria^ yellow fever, and several 
other fevers. 

Prevention. — By treatment of breeding places. 

1. Drain or till up ponds, pools, etc., or if this is not possible — 
Spread kerosene oil over surface every two weeks during summer. 
Introduce natural enemies into ponds, such, as gold fish, silver 

fish, and minnows. 

2. Remove old tin cans, pails, bottles, and other possible con- 
tainers of water. 

3. Cover rain barrels and tanks with fine w'ire netting. 

4. Screens at all windows and doors. 

Extermination. — 1. P)ed nets at night (have net large enough 
to allow free circulation of air; be sure no mosquito is inside the 
net, and net is free from holes and tears). 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 



311 



2. Mosquito traps — home-made, same as for flies. 

3. Eepellent oil: (a) Oil of citronella (apply to screens if badly 
infested), {b) Eepellent mixture: Oil of citronella, 1 oz. ; spirit of 
camphor, 1 oz. ; oil of cedar, I/2 oz, A few drops of this mixture 
on a cloth hung on the bed at night is effective. 

■i. Smudges : An^ything that will make a dense smoke will drive 
away mosquitoes. Pyrethrum powder made into paste and burned 
is effective. 

5. Fumigants : Sul|)hur is burned in case of disease-causing 
mosquitoes. 




Fig. 164. — Clothes moth — with puparium and larva below. 



The latter two must not be burned where peoj^le can inhale the 
fumes too closely. 

Clothes Moths. — ^Destructive to woolen textiles, fur, feathers, 
and caq^ets or upholstery. The destruction is done by the larva 
or worm which develops from the moth egg (Fig. 16J:). 

rrevention. — Keep moths from depositing eggs. 

1. Hang textiles in sun and air, and 

2. Carefully beat and brusli so as to remove any eggs that may 
be present, and 

3. Pack tightly in clean boxes, bags of cotton, linen or strong 
paper, and include 

l. Repellents such as tobacco, j^epper, camphor, naphthaline 
balls, and cedar chips, which are effective in keeping moths out, as 
long as odor is strong; then 

5. Seal edges of boxes with wrapping paper. 

6. Keep closets clean. 



312 



HOUSEWIFERY 



7. Or use cold storage method (adopted by dealers in furs, etc.). 
Tenipcraturo is so low as to produce inactivity. 

E.rfeniiination. — If tlie moth worm has developed, the house- 
k('e])er must give her attention to the closet or storage place. 

1. Take clothing to sunlight and brush thoroughly. 

2. Wash the closet with strong soapsuds. 
;?. Burn a sulphur candle. 

4. S])ray walls, slielves, and boxes with oil of cedar, gasoline, or 
benzine. (Avoid fire.) 




Fig. 165. — The bed-bug from above and below and egg. 

Bed Bugs. — Possible carriers of disease (Fig. 165). Found in 
dusty, midisturbed places first; easily carried in clothing. 

Preventiun. — 1. Inspection of beds and bedding, especially 
seams and tuftings of mattresses. 

3. Careful inspection of all baggage and clothing coming into 
house. 

Extermination. — 1. Hot water. 

2. Benzine or kerosene injected into all crevices of beds and 



walls. 
3. 

4. 



Corrosive sublimate. 
Oil of turpentine. 
5. Fumigants: sulphur — to be burned — most efficient remedy, 
but to be handled wnth oTeat care (see page 303). 

Roaches. — Cock roaches, croton bugs, water bugs (Fig. 16(!). 
More abundant in pantries and kitchens, near garbage pails, sinks, 
and warm places such as hot water boilers. They feed on dead ani- 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 313 

mal matter and food of all kinds. Wet scrubbing brushes, refriger- 
ator drip pans, and dish cloths seem especially to draw them. 

Prevention. — 1. Keep kitchen and pantry clean from crumbs. 

2. Cover all food. 

3. Keep sink dry ; no wet mops or dish cloths. 

4. Place alum or boras in water pan under refrigerator. 

5. Sprinkle roach powders under refrigerator. 
Extennination. — 1. Dnst: Powdered borax, pyrethrum powder, 

sodium fluoride, sulphur flowers. 

2. Poison paste : Spread on bits of cardboard placed in runways. 




Fig. 166. — The Oriental roach, Periplaneta orientalis. — a, the male; b, the female; c, egg-case. 

3. Trapping. — Eoaches like rancid grease, and can often be 
caught in a pan well lined with grease, as they cannot crawl through 
it. A bread pan with sides about three inches deep makes a good 
trap. To kill trapped roaches, plunge trap into very hot water. 

Ants. — Especially hard to fight because they are so small and 
usually come in such myriads. 

Prevention. — 1. Keep all food covered. 

2. Place legs of tables and refrigerators in cups of water covered 
with a coating of oil. 

Extermination. — 1. Find the ant-hill, and inject kerosene into it 
and close tightly with cotton soaked in kerosene. 

2. Soak sponges in sweetened water; after ants have crawled 
into it, plunge the sponge into boiling water. 

3. Spread borax on shelves. 



314 



HOUSEWIP^ERY 



4. Poison. Sojik spoiig-es in syrup poisoiicil with arsenate of 
soda, and the ants will carry the poison to larviu in nest. (Use 
arsenate with groat eare, as it is a poison.) 

5. Strong soapsuds — harmless and very efl'ective. 

Carpet Beetles (IJuHalo Bugs). — Feed u])on carpets and 
woolens and silk. Are most destructive because they eat so many 
types of things (Fig. 1G7). 

Prevention. — 1. Eeplace carpets Ijy rugs. 

2. Take up carpets at least twice a year, and thoroughly clean 
carpets and floors. 




Fig. 167. — The carpet-beetle, Anthrenus scrophularicB. — a, larva; b, larval skiu split to expose 
the pupa within it; c, pupa; d, beetle. 



Extermination. — 1. Thorough house cleaning : Thoroughly clean 
carpet. Spray with benzine. Wash floors with hot water. Clean 
out cracks — pour kerosene or benzine into cracks and under base- 
boards. (Benzine very inflammable.) Fill cracks with plaster-of- 
Paris. Lay tarred paper under carpets. Every little while take up 
edges of carpet and look for insects. 

2. Steam. — Place damp cloth over carpet; iron with hot iron. 
Steam will pass through carpet and will kill insects directly under 
the ironed part. 

3. Poison. — Corrosive sublimate and alcohol — 60 gr. corrosive 
sublimate dissolved in 1 pint of alcohol. Apply to edges and under- 
sides of carpet; will destroy larvfe. (Great care must be used 
because corrosive sublimate is a violent poison.) 

Fleas. — Parasites and carriers of disease. Two s|)ecies in dwell- 
ing houses : human, and cat or dog flea (Fig. 168) , 



HOUSEHOLD PESTS 



315 



Prevention. — 1. Destroy adult flea; the eggs are like small black 
powder, called nits. 

2. Keep cats and dogs clean and free from fleas. Bathe fre- 
quently in solution of creolin. For dogs — -t tablespoons creoline 
to 1 quart water. For cats — 2 tablespoons creoline to 1 quart water. 

3. Animals' sleeping rvig or pillow should be often beaten and 
]]\m'x in sun. 

E.rterminaiion. — 1, Care of carpet, rugs, or floors — (a) Sweep 
carpets and take up often; (&) wash floors with strong soapsuds; 




Fig. 168. — The jigger flea: a, normal female; h, distended with eggs; c, larva. 

(c) fill up cracks of floors; {d) sprinkle carpets with benzine or 
gasoline; naphthaline, or alum (powdered or in solution). 

2. Repellents — (a) Oil of pennyroyal; (&) boughs and chips of 
pine; (c) naphthaline crystals; {d) pyrethrum. 

The oil of pennyroyal can be applied to the human skin ; or can 
be used in the household by rubbing around window or on floor. 

Rats and Mice ; Squirrels ; Chipmunks. — All are very destruc- 
tive of food, clothing and leather, and are very dirty. 

Prevention. — 1. Close all holes or openings by which they 
enter. Tin makes a good cover. 

2. Keep all food covered. 

3. Leave no crumbs about. 



316 



HOUSEWIFERY 



Extenninalion. — 1. Traps set near possible entrance. Scald 
traps l)efore setting to remove suspicious odors. 

,2. Poisons — various preparations on the market. Cannot be 
used M-itli pet animals about. 




Fig. 169. — The silver-fish, Lepiima domestica. Fig. 170. — A house centipede, 

Scxitigera forceps. 

3. Cats as catchers. 

4. Weasels — professional vermin exterminator brings his own 
weasels. 

Silver Fish (fish moth, bristle tail) (Fig. 169). — Injurious to 
"bookbindings, glazed paper, starched clothing, linen, curtains, stiflE 
silks, wallpaper paste. c 

Prevcniion. — 1. Keep the jDlace dry and well aired. 



HOUSEnOLD PESTS 317 

Extermination. — 1. Pyrethnim powder sprayed on book shelves, 
in drawers, etc.. 

2. Sodiimi fluoride sprayed wherever pests occur. 

3, Arsenic (deadly poison). Add to starch paste. Place on 
small pieces of cardboard Avhere pests occur. 

Centipedes. — Abundant in bathrcx)ms, moist closets, cellars, 
conservatories, and around heating pipes and registers (Fig. 170). 
Prevention. — 1. Constant inspection of moist places. 
2. Keep places dry and aired. 

Extermination. — 1. Destroy centijsedes whenever seen. 
2. Apply fresh pyrethrum powder. 

SUGGESTIVE QUESTIONS 

1. Wliat safe ways can be suggested for ridding a bed of vermin? 

2. How can you clean a sugar box of ants? 

3. A housewife once tlioughti slie had a cricket and hated to kill it because 

of an old-fashioned superstition. Later she found she had been har- 
boring a household pest. ^^liat was it? 

4. If a kitchen is infested with roaches what means may be employed to 

exterminate ? 

REFERENCES 
15ISHOPP, F. C, Fleas as Pests to Man and Animals, with Suggestions 

FOR TiiEiB Control. U. S. Dept. of Agric., Farmers' Bulletin No. 683. 
r.rsHOPP, F. C, Fly Traps and Their Opeeation. U. S. Dept. of Agri- 
culture, Farmers" Bulletin No. 734. 
Herrick, Glen W., Household Insects and Methods of Control. Cor- 
nell University Bulletin No. 49. 
Howard, L. O., The Carpet Beetle, or Buffalo Moth. U. S. Dept. of 

Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 020. 
Howard, L. O., House Flies. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers' 

Bulletins Nos. 4.59 and 679. 
Howard, L. O., Hydrocyanic Acid Gas Against Household Pests. U. S. 

Dept. of Agriculture. Farmers' Bulletin No. 699. 
Howard, L. 0., Mosquitoes, How They Live, Carry Disease, Etc. 

McClure, Phillips & Co. 
Howard, L. O., Remedies and Preventives Against Mosquitoes. U. S. 

Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 444. 
]MacLeod. Sarah, The Housekeeper's Handbook of Cleaning. Harper 

& Bros. 
Marlatt, C. L., The Bedbug. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin 

No. 754. 
Marlatt, C. L., Cockroaches. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin 

No. 658. 
Marlatt, C. L., House Ants, ICinds and Methods of Control. U. S. 

Dept of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 740. 
Marlatt, C. L., The House Centipede. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 627. 
Mablatt, C. L., The Silver Fish, an Injurious Household Insect. 

V. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers' Bulletin No. 681. 
Marl.\tt, C. L.. True Clothes Moths. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 659. 
Parloa, ]\Iaria, Home Economics. Century Co. 



CHAPTER XIII 

SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 

Housewifery^ as presented in this hook, represents technique 
of housekeeping. As a siihject of study, it may form either a 
course hy itself which is to give special attention to the practical 
processes of housekeeping with appropriate laboratory exercises ; or, 
where the curriculum has not yet developed so that housework is 
taught in a course by itself, housewifer}^ may be made a part of the 
course in household management ; or together with other manage- 
ment topics, selected lessons in housewifery may be introduced into 
other courses in the home economics curriculum, as in cooking 
courses. 

If provision is made for a separate housewifery course, it should 
have its specially prepared teacher and its special equipment and 
laboratory, just as is provided for any other subject of instruction. 
At the same time this subject is of such a nature that simple lessons 
in housewifei-y may be given by teacher's of the home economics 
courses, and indeed Ijy regular classroom teachers provided they 
have had proper training. Moreover, the importance of the subject 
is such, dealing as it does Avitli the fundamental sanitary problems 
of household living, that it is desirable- that it should be taught most 
widely to older as well as to younger students everywhere. 

The problems to be met l)oth by the teacher of housewifery who 
gives a special course in this suljject, and by teachers of other sub- 
jects who introduce a number of housewifery lessons into other 
courses, will be considered in this chapter. 

Methods of Teaching. — Housewifer}^ is a subject which can be 
presented theoretically by lectures or talks, but since it concerns 
practical processes it is very important that the teaching of theory 
be constantly accompanied by practice in order to try out ideas, 
to make mental impressions more vivid, and to equip the learner to 
do successfully the particular task concerned. A textbook in the 
hands of students will help present theory in well-organized form, 
though of course there must be oral instruction by the teacher who 
describes processes and leads the group in discussion; a textbook 
becomes later a reference book. Students will usually keep note- 
318 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 



319 



books. Illnstrative material (Fig. 171) and excursions to places of 
business, to homes and to institutional households, will help make 
clear the problems involved. 

Laboratory Work. — Practical work must be provided, whether 
it be in the student's own home, in and about the school building, 
or in a special housewifery laboratory suitably equipped, or in 
a practice house or apartment. The special housekeeping laboratory 
ought to be provided in all higher institutions, and even in high 




Fig. 171. — Storage of illustrative material. 



schools there is a great advantage in the special room set aside 
with its proper equipment and teaching materials. For one thing 
it gives an importance in the minds of the students to the prosaic 
work problems of the home to find them the subject of instruction 
appropriatelyhousedina housewifery laboratory. And such a special 
room makes it also possible to do better teaching, since equipment 
and teaching material of all kinds can be gradually collected in such 
a room where it is at hand to illustrate points arising in the teaching. 
Housewifery Laboratory. — A room 30 x 30 or thereabouts will 
make an adequate housewifery laboratory (Fig. 171). The equip- 
ment actually required for a beginning may be very simple — a few 
tables, a sink with water supply, a gas stove or better several gas 



320 



HOUSEWIFERY 



burners, and storage facilities for teaching materials. This of 
course is an inexpensive furnishing which will place much addi- 
tional labor on the teacher, but it does make the work possible if 
there is only a small amount at first available for the equipment 
of a housewifery laboratory (Fig. 17"3). With such a meagre equip- 
ment, the illustrative material must be furnished by borrowing 




Fig. 172. — Laboratory equipment. 

from other departments, and by teacher or students Ijringing in 
special problems for the day, and the class may have to be satisfied 
with such help as is furnished by demonstrations given by the teacher. 
Like all demonstration work it has only a small part of the value of 
the actual work done by the students themselves. 

The supplying of pieces of silver and of various metals to be 
cleaned, a few pieces of linen that might be used for teaching- 
hemming of nappery, or cretonnes to be made up into various 
])ags and holders or upholstered into pillows — this and similar 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 321 

material might easily be brought in by students. But when beds, 
refrigerators, stoves, etc., are part of a lesson, it will be seen at 
once that it would be more practical to have them in the laboratory, 
if possible; at any rate somewhere in the school where a class can 
assemble and study them. Teachers sometimes take their classes 
to their own apartments or homes for special lessons, but this is 
unsatisfactory, because of the time lost in the students' going and 
coming, and because often tlie class is too large to work without 
confusion. 

As soon as conditions permit, therefore, the requisites for in- 
struction in this subject should be provided as adequately as for 
any other subject. This requires a good-sized laboratory room with 
one or more large store-rooms, for there is a large amount of teach- 
ing material which can wisely be used. The room should have 
work table space for 30 students; the tables should be moveable, 
with soft wood tops, so that they will not he injured by rough work 
and can be refinished readil}^; they should be of standing height 
(3-i"-38"), with high -chairs provided. The tables may well be 
arranged in a horse-shoe form with the teacher's desk raised at 
the opening of the horse-shoe. In addition to running water, and 
gas outlets including a range, there should be storage cupboards 
and glass display cases in the room, and ample space for bringing 
in from the store-room, a bed, refrigerator, furniture, utensils of 
all kinds, and exhibits. Ample blackboard space should be provided 
and also cork board for pinning up exhibit material. 

The store-rooms should have shelving and cupboards, and con- 
siderable floor space for storing materials, labor-saving equipment, 
etc., when not in use in the laboratory. One or two rooms 12 x 15 
will not be too large for storage space. 

Laboratory Equipment. — To equip the laboratory, one would 
have to set aside about $500, if the ideal work-room is to be estab- 
lished, but, given a room, teaching materials can if necessary be 
gradually accumulated. In general there should be present sam- 
ples of the materials, tools, working equipment, and supplies, and 
of the furnishings which enter into the ordinary household. The 
various items listed in the chapters of this book so far as they can 
conveniently be brought into a school workroom suggest what equip- 
ment the laboratory should have. If one has to equip from the 
first, one should inquire as to materials which can be had on loan so 
21 



322 HOUSEWIFERY 

as to make one's funds reach as far as possible. Gradually, however, 
get into the laboratory the things used regularly. 

Some idea of desirable equipment may Ije had from the following 
concrete suggestions : 

Plumbing fittings as trap, faucet, etc. ; charts of plumbing and 
heating systems; sample lighting equipment; working equipment 
of kitchen, laundry, and cleaning 2:>rocesses; larger labor-savers as 
washing-machines, dish-washers, vacuums; supplies of all kinds, as 
soaps, dustless sweeper materials; sam23les of the materials with 
which the housewife deals — wood samples in various finishes, types 
of flooring, etc. ; metals of all kinds in forms suitable for experi- 
mental cleaning; household linens, floor coverings, wallpapers, hang- 
ings, curtain and curtain fixtures, etc. 

The teacher may bring out both the art and economic side of 
furnishing by having the students mount their illustrations of 
furniture and their samples of materials so as to represent the fur- 
nishings of one room, which they present with an estimate of the 
cost. By comparison and classroom discussion, students are led 
to see better combinations as to both line and color. At all times, 
comparative cost must be part of the study, and at no time should 
expensive things alone be considered. The type of student controls 
the desirable range of costs in such a problem, but the teacher of 
housewifery must always teach economy. 

One handicap to the above method is the viewpoint of the mer- 
chants. ]\Iany catalogs are put out at great expense, so great that 
the merchants feel that it is impossible for them to furnish these 
expensive catalogs without there being some anticipated purchase 
of the article. The author has found that many firms gladly co- 
operate in this type of educational work if they are consulted and 
given time to prepare some sheets of special value to students, rather 
than have them use or cut up catalogs. 

Loans from Firms. — Teachers may have help through the 
loaning of equipment by manufacturers or local dealers. This is 
especially important with expensive equipment such as vacuum 
cleaners and washing machines. It is a disadvantage to own too 
many of these, because the laboratory soon becomes a museum of 
machines which finally become too old to serve as up-to-date equip- 
ment. An exhibit of large labor-savers is valuable for compara- 
tive purposes. Manufacturers will often extend the courtesy of 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 323 

a visit to the plant to the class, and such excursions to both fac- 
tories and stores are of great ser\'ice. Lantern slides will often be 
furnished by firms, they being given the privilege of putting their 
names in the corner of the slides. 

Helps in Classroom. — Catalog and advertising material, to- 
gether with newspaper articles may be made available for the stu- 
dents through the use of folio boxes ; catalogs may also be filed on 
edge in a deep drawer. This material to be of service must be 
well indexed. Folio or filing boxes may be obtained from any book 
dealer. A catalog of larger sized index cards is useful for infor- 
mation taken from catalogs and other sources. The bulletin board 
should be used for interesting items. A shelf of reference books 
should be provided in the laboratory. 

Whether or not a text-book is used, it may be found helpful 
to outline the lesson and. give such an outline on a tyi^ewritten sheet 
preceding a lesson. On this outline may also be added a set of prob- 
lems and a list of reference readings; this sheet helps the student 
to prepare her lesson. Any recipes, e.g., of cleaning solutions, or 
directions for work, should be given to each student on mimeograph 
sheets, cut to fit the notebook. These sheets will save time of dic- 
tation by the teacher in class, and also eliminate mistakes in copying. 

Practice Work, Practice Houses (Figs. 173, 174).— The labo- 
ratory method is extended to a more real and definite working out of 
the problem by the use of practice houses or practice apartments. 
Practice houses, have proved to be an advantage for different types 
and ages, from the girls of grammar school to those of college age, 
and even in teaching housekeepers in extension classes. To make 
the practice house very real and of the desired help to the individual, 
the class should be of a family size, otherwise there is too much 
division of labor, as well as too small a share of responsibility. 
The public school practice house lacks a large part of the value that 
a regular practice house may have, because students do not make it 
their real home, being there only through school hours. Some have 
suggested that in time eighth-grade and high school girls will be 
asked as part of their practical study of housekeeping to live for a 
week or more in a model house or apartment. 

In a practice apartment or a practice house, the student should 
ideally be given the individual tasks of a member of the " family " 
living in the house. Her work should finally extend through all 



324 



HOUSEWIFERY 



branches of housekeeping^ and honieniaking — mistress, maid, laun- 
dress, buyer, guest etc. A good way is to cliange the working 
schedule once a week, then to bring h\ a Jiew groujj, because this 
gives time to i)errect methods reasonably and, too, the home schedule 
is usually o])erated on a weekly basis. This is also of service to the 
one wIk) has charge oT the food and the budget. A senior student or 




Fig. 173. — Practice house, Oregon Agricultural College, Corvallis, Oregon. 



an assistant teacher in the department may act as a leader of the 
group, but the work must be closely supervised ; a good standard of 
work gives sufficient basis for credits for this practice work. The 
number of points allowed a student for this practical work varies 
with different standards of training, but when properly supervised 
it should be counted as equivalent to laboratory hours within the 
institution, and given credit accordingly. 

Model housekeeping centers are established in some cities as 
a basis of teaching better housekeeping standards, especially to the 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 



325 



foreign women who live iu the conmiiuiity. These are apartments 
furnished economically but with all necessities for good housekeep- 
ing and homemaking; often each item is marked with the cost for 
the information of visitors. Such centers are also used by the public 
school children, who come for certain periods a week to have work 
ill an apartment which is a standard for the kind of an apartment in 




KiG. 174. — Living-ruom of practice house, Oregon Agricultural College, Corvallis, Oregon. 

which they live. The center is usually in charge of a special teacher 
who conducts all the work of the center. 

Practice Work in Homes. — Some teachers of housewifery have 
encouraged definite work being done by students in their own or 
others' homes, credit being given for stated hours of work. The 
main difficulty has been to find some way to supervise and check up 
the work and to rate students. Such work, particularly when done 
for compensation in the homes of others, may prove an important 
step toward the training of young women in wage-earning occu- 



326 HOUSEWIFERY 

pations related to the home. The disadvantage in having the stu- 
dent talve her training in homes of others results from laek of 
standardized housekeeping methods. Eaeh iujusewife may he a 
good teacher and a good housekeeper hut the methods of any two 
will vary widely. This in fact, is one reason that housekeeping 
schools have made such slow progress. 

School Courses in Housewifery. — Tn high scliools, hotli junior 
high schools and regular high schools, and in technical and voca- 
tional schools for girls, a defmite course of lessons in housewifery 
should he taught. This will be either a unit course in the home 
economics department, or perhaps a half unit with some other course. 

There are given below two outlines of courses : the first a nine- 
lesson course given in the Washington Irving High School, Xew 
York City, where a practice apartment is available ; and the second 
a more detailed outline of eight lessons which may be used in 
schools, in settlements or other special classes, or in rural extension 
work. 

LESSON OUTLINES NO. I. 

HouseJcceping Lessons (liven at Wa^shington Irving High, ^ehool, 
Neiu York City 

Lesson I 

1. Discussion of previous work under other subjects related to the home. 

2. Habits, their value and formation 

.3. Practice Apartment shown and explained 

a. Rooms discussed — number and size 

b. New Law for Tenements — average size and rent 

c. Necessary points in any apartment 

4. Home work. Each girl examines her cellar and the door leading to 
the roof. 

Lesson II 

1. Plumbing, — construction and care 

a. Importance of good plumbing 

b. Open plumbing 

c. Traps — construction and use 

d. Care of sink, pipe, and tray. L^se of alkalies 

o. Care of bathroom fixtures. ITse of disinfectants 

2. Practical work — Opening of trap, cleaning of sink, tub, basin and flush 

closet 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 327 

Lesson III 
Care of Floors and Woodwork 



1. ISTatural wood 

2. Stained or i)ainted floor 

3. Oiled "and waxed floors 

4. Linoleum and oilcloth 

5. Matting 

6. Carpets and rugs. 



Lessox IV 

Care of Closets and Windows 

1. Kitchen closets 

a. Treatment and arrangement 

b. Care and cleanir:g 

2. Clothing closets 

a. Economical use of space 
h. Care 

3. Windows and mirrors 

a. Care and cleaning 

Lesson V 

Cleaning of Metals 

1 . Purpose 

2. Danger of cheap, unknown polishes 

3. Making of simple, inexpensive ones at home 

4. Method of cleaning steel, iron, tin, zinc, copper, brass, gold, silver, and 

nickel 

Lesson VI 

Daily Care of Rooms 

1. Kitchen 

a. Sweep floor with hair broom 

b. Dust if necessary 

c. Clean sink 

d. Clean stove 

( 1 ) If it is a gas range, wipe burners and top of stove with a 

damp cloth. Clean the pan underneath tlie burners 

(2) If it is a coal range, remove ashes, brush hearth, and 

wipe stove. Rub with oily cloth if necessary 

e. Wash tables and shelves if necessary 

2. Bathroom 

a. Wipe floor if necessaiy 

b. Clean inside of flush closet if necessary. Bathtub and wash 

basin should be left clean by each person who uses them 

3. Other rooma, such as living room or bedroom 

a. Brush rug or carpet with carpet sweeper 

b. Dust bare floor with dustless mop or liag on the broom 

c. Dust window sills, furniture and ornaments. Do not wrinkle 

bureau covers or table covers when removing them. Empty and 
dust sweeper, brush dust from dustless mop and wash duster 



328 HOUSEWIFERY 

Lesson VTI 
Cleaniiiff a Room 

1. Difference between Daily Care and Cleaning of a room 

2. Preparation of room 

a. For cleaning with a vacuum cleaner 

b. For cleaning with broom 

( 1 ) Furniture 

(2) Hangings 

(3) Pictures 

(4) Ornaments 

(5) Carpet or rugs 

3. Cleaning. JNIethods as dustless as possible — ^use diistless mop and 

duster and dampened jjaper for the floor, if necessary 

Lesson VIII 
Cleaning and Polishing of Furniture 

1. Substances to be avoided, and why 

2. Substances to be used, and why 

3. Cleaning: 

a. Water 

b. Neutral soap 

c. Whiting 

d. Oil 

4. Polishing: * 

a. Polishes to Ije avoided. Eeasons 

b. Simple home-made polishes. Advantages 

c. Method of work 

d. Care of oily cloths 

Lesson IX 
Furnishing and Care of the Sleeping Room 

1. Furnishing: 

a. All furnishings should be easy to clean or wash 

( 1 ) Floor covering. Bare floor with a rug is liest. Carpet 

is undesirable 

(2) All hangings and covers should be made of washable 

material 

(3) Furniture should be plain. An iron bed is best 

2. Care 

a. Of room 

( 1 ) Keep free from dust 

(2) Keep well ventilated 

(3) Keep neat 

b. Of bed 

( 1 ) Air bedding and room in the morning, if possible. Open 

closet door while airing room 

(2) Examine bed occasionally to keep it free from vermin 

(3) Turn mattress often 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 329 

LESSON OUTLINES NO. II 

For f^chools, Settlement and Other Special Classes; or Rural 
Extension Work 

Introduction to the Course — An Appeal for Scientific Homemaking. 
Present-day IVJethods — Results Possible 
Establish concept of: 
A house — a building 

A home — what the family life makes it 

Housewifery — a study of the problems daily confronting the housewife 
Homemaker— the one upon wliom the success or failure of the home 
primarily depends 

Lesson I 
Choosing the Home. Analysis of the House 

1. Considerations in choosing the home 

a. Surrounding conditions 

( 1 ) Physical 

(a) Character of buildings in vicinity 

(b) The water supply 

(2) Social 

(a) Cliaracter of neighborhood 

(b) Proximity to business and school 

b. The house or apartment itself 

( 1 ) Condition of building 

(2) Plumbing 

(3) Ventilation 

(a) what it is 

(b) how secured 

(c) influence on health 

(4) Sunlight 

( 5 ) Heating 

(6) Lighting 

( 7 ) Arrangement of rooms 

2. Analysis of the House 

a. Divisions into 

I 1 ) the work part 

the rest part 

the pleasure part 
(2) the communications between parts 

b. The law that parts should relate as well as connect 

Lesson II 
The Cleaning Process 
In the cleaning process, we consider: 
1. The cleaning tool 

a. What constitutes a tool to-day 

b. How to choose a tool 

(1) Analysis of tool as to 

(a) need 

(b) quality, and suitability to purpose 
( e ) cost 

(d) cost of repair 

Note. — Demonstration with tools. 



330 HOUSEWIFERY 

2. Tlie Cleaning Material 

a. Talk over cleaning solutions tlio women use 

b. Make solutions to be used in tlie class work * 

(1) Soap solution 

(2) Javelle 

(3) Washing soda 

(4) Oxalic acid solution 

(5) Detergent 

Lesson III 

The Kitchen 

Correlate the analysis of the house with tlie principles or organiza- 
tion as applied in tlie remaining lessons: even if the home consists of 
one room and all thei processes and divisions be included in it, the analysis 
and principle remain the same; therefore these processes and divisions will 
])e taken up as such, the class to make application to individual home 
conditions. 

1. Analysis of work performed in the kitchen, viz.: The preparing of 

food, the cooking of food, washing dishes, putting away dishes 

a. As determining 

( 1 ) The essentials in the structure and finish of thei floor, walls, 

and ceiling 

(2) Ventilation 

( 3 ) Light 

b. With regard to efficient routing of work t 

2. Practical work: Measure working heights, (-^how a room: 

a. Inefficiently arranged 

b. Efficiently arranged without extra cost 

Problem for next lesson : To bring in list of, or have in mind, the 
necessary kitchen equipment. 

Lesson IV 
Permanent Equipment 

L Tlie kitchen cabinet t 

a. Construction 

b. Organization and contents § 

c. Care 
2. The stove 

a. Kinds 

( 1 ) Coal 

(2) Gas 

(3) Tireless cooker 

b. Working principles 

c. Care 

* The teaclier to make these solutions as a demonstration. 
t Emphasize and enlarge upon routing of all housework from this 
text. 

J Emphasize correct height of working surfaces. 
§ Correlate with last lesson. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 331 

3, The sink 

a. Principles of construction 

b. Kinds 

( 1 ) Porcelain 

(2) Enamel on iron 

(3) Iron, etc. 

c. Care 

Practical work, combined with teaching: Utensil cleaning, dish 
washing, care of sink, disposal of kitchen waste. 

Lesson V 

Tlie Kitchen. Permanent Equipment (continued) 

1. Tlie refrigerator 

a. Principles of construction 

b. Care 

2. The window box 

a. Principles of construction 

b. Use 

c. How made 

3. The cupboard for dining room dishes 

a. Organization 

b. Equipment of dishes 

c. Care 

Discussion of cheaper devices or make-shifts. 

Practical work: Cleaning refrigerator, constructing a window box 
or refrigerator, according to the season of the year. 

Lesson VI 

The Laundry 

1. Analysis of its use as determining 

a. Esisentials in structure and finish of floor, walls, and ceiling 

b. Light 

c. Heat 

d. Ventilation 

2. The equipment * 

a. Tubs 

b. Ironing board 

c. Equipment for making starch 

d. Table 

Practical work, combined with teaching: Stain removing, empha- 
sizing danger and necessity for care, in using stain-removing materials ; 
lesson in laundering; care and cleaning of laundry. 

Note. — As laundry work is only a small part in the whole scheme 
of the course, let the practical work be along the line of bleaching, remov- 
ing stains, making starch, sponging and pressing. 



Emphasize correct height of working surfaces. 



332 HOUSEWIFERY 

Lessox VII, 

Tlio Dining Room. Tlio Living E-oom. 

1. Tilt? Dining Room 

a. Analysis of its use as determining 

(1) The essentials in structure and liiii.sli of lloor, walls, and 

ceiling 

(2) Light 

(3) Heat 

(4) Ventilation 

(5) The essential characteristics of the furnishings 

(a) Furniture 

(b) Floor coverings 

(c) Curtains 

(d) Pictures and ornaments 

2. The Living Room '^ 

In connection with living and dining rooms, discuss 

3. The cleaning closet 

a. Need of, whether it be a real closet or space in the corner 

b. Equipment 

c. Organization 

Practical work, combined Avith teaching: Cleaning the living room 
and the dining room; renewal and renovation of furniture, floors, walls, 
and ceiling, emphasizing danger and necessity for care, in handling ma- 
terials. Rug cleaning. 

Note. — This practical lesson should teach correct methods of scrub- 
bing, sweeping, dusting, disposal of dust, window cleaning, etc. 

Lessox VIII. 

The Bedroom. Vermin. Tlie Bathroom. 
1. The Bedroom. 

a. Analysis of its use as determininc 



b. 



(1) The essentials in structure and finisli 


of floor, 


walls and 


ceiling 






(2) Light 






( 3 ) Heat t 






(4) Ventilation 






(5) Furnishings 






The bed 






(1) Parts 






(a) Bedstead 






(b) Spring 






(c) Mattress 






(d) Pillows 






(e) Covering 






(2) How made 






(3) Cleaning and sanitation 







* Emphasize importance of " homey " quality in living room. Show 
that the laws of good taste are the same for elaborate and for simple 
interiors. 

t Try to offer some solution for the heatless bedroom. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 333 

2. Vermin 

a. Habits 

b. Kinds 

c. Prevention 

d. Eradication 
.'?. The linen closet 

a. Need of, wlietlier it be a real closet or a space set aside for it 

b. Organization 

c. Equipment 
4. The bathroom 

a. Analysis of its use as determining 

(1) The essentials in structure and finish of lloor, walls and 

ceiling 

(2) Light 

( 3 ) Heat 

(4) Ventilation 

b. Equipment 

( 1 ) How to tell bad from good 

c. Plumbing 

( 1 ) Water supply 
(a) Filtration 

( 2 ) Sewage 

(a) Principles of drainage 

(b) Traps, safe and unsafe 

XoTE. — Emphasize importance of using bathtub for bathing, and 
importance of extreme cleanliness if laundry tubs are used for bathing. 
This lesson should not only teach sanitation and hygiene, but convince 
the class of their vital connection with health. If this group is to have 
a course in laundry work, omit Lesson VI, use VII as VI; and divide this 
lesson into two lessons for VII and VIII. 

Reviews. — It is important by constant reviewing to get a broad 
survey, and to bring together general explanations and procedures. 
The review may be in terms of principles ; for example, to explain 
the applications of bacteriology in securing sanitary standards of 
housekeeping, or to justify the various cleaning processes on this 
basis ; to explain the management of a furnace, tireless cooker, etc., 
in terms of the physical principles of heat. Reviews may also be of a 
practical nature, and concern the technique of the household. This 
is particularly important so that the person trained in housewifery 
may become a capable manager and wise economizer of time, labor, 
money, and materials. Such reviews should be given not only at 
the end of a course, in order to test knowledge, but as brief exercises 
in connection with regular class meetings to enliven interest and 
to give that practical knowledge and skill which make the house- 
wife ready to meet any emergency in her domain, and also help 
her serve as a real economizer for the nation. 



334 HOUSEWIFERY 

As a sample review project, there are listed below typical " econ- 
omies and sliort cuts." Such a list may be used as a check on per- 
sonal practices : how many of these do I ])ractice ? How many could 
I adoi)t? Let the student, liousewil'e, or reader extend the list to a 
dozen practical points under each heading, 
Ilouseu'ifery as a Business: 

Have a plan for houseworl: — saves time and keeps order. 

Make a budget of expenditures — helps to save income. 

Study your liouse plan — may suggest im])rovements. 
Plumbing : 

Keep small strainer in sink — will catch small particles of food 
which may block the drain. 

Keep washers on faucets — saves water bills. 

Pipe iTuining water wherever used — saves steps. 
HeaUng and Lighting: 

Put covers on saucepans — saves heat and hence fire. 

Give care to dampers of stove — saves stove and fuel. 

Put mantles on lights — ^give more light, save fuel, hence cost 
less money. 
Equipment and Labor Saving Appliances: 

Use paper on table in cleaning vegetables — saves scrul)]jing table. 

Use paper to line garbage can — makes cleaning easy and less 
distasteful. 

Place pans and utensils near stove, sink, or table, where they 
are to be used — saves steps, work, time. 

Get a power washing machine — do other work while it works. 

Raise the table, ironing board, washtub — saves the worker's 
back. 

Use electric or gas iron — saves time and work for the ironer, 
Siipplies: 

Save scraps of soai> — use for wash l)oiler or machine. 

Save and clarify fat — it cooks food, and makes soap. 

Use blue that dissolves — saves money and 'svill not streak on 
clothing. 
Furnishings : 

Choose small figures — saves material in matching, hence money. 

Money spent in fast colors good economy — saves time and work 
of making new. 

Keep leather cool, aired, and oiled — saves it from cracking. 
Cleaning and Care : 

Put dust sheets over furniture when sweeping — saves work. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 335 

Use moistened paper to take up dust — saves worker. 

Scrape, stack dishes, and wash in regular order — saves time 
in washing, wiping, and putting away. 
Cleaning and Eenovution: 

Mend clothes before washing — a stitch in time saves nine. 

Put clothes to soak — makes washing easy, saves clothes. 

Try cold Avater first on stains — removes many and saves cloth- 
ing and work. 

Use kerosene to remove discolorations on porcelain — will save 
scratching. 
Disinfectants and Fuinigants: 

Put cheap wallpai)er on children's room — may often need to 
be taken off after children's diseases. ' 

Use soap and water freely — kills genns and saves doctors' bills. 

The College Course in Housewifery. — A college teacher of 
housewifery has the interesting task of teaching a practical subject 
and placing it upon a scientific basis. Obviously there is need of 
making the instruction entirely sound as regards scientific facts, 
and the college teacher will need to draw upon the resources of her 
own scientific training and also have close working cooperation with 
the scientific departments. At the same time, the housewifery course 
is not intended to be a course in applied science but a course in 
technique or the various practical processes which are carried on in 
the home. If the practical note is not dominant, the instruction 
will fail as did to a certain extent agricultural education for so long 
a time through its efforts to be " scientific." 

How may the college instructor best use this text? She may 
either follow it rather closely as an outline of subject matter, break- 
ing up the chapters so as to f crm the appropriate number of units ; 
or on the other hand, she may wish to follow a dift'erent sequence 
of topics, suggestions of which may be drawn from the two courses 
outlined in detail in this chapter. In such a sequence an important 
element may be a discussion in turn of the various rooms of the house 
from cellar to attic, under each room bringing in the problems of 
equipment, supplies, storage, and cleaning appropriate to it. What- 
ever be the sequence of topics, this text is intended to be an outline 
of subject matter which will be serviceable in the hands of the indi- 
vidual student. The text is, however, only the verbal aspect of the 
instruction, a very important part of which must be acquaintance 
with, and skill in, the actual processes of housekeeping to be secured 
through laboratory and other practice. 



336 HOUSEWIFERY 

Laboratory exercises in college teaching while primarily 

arranged to illustrate dilTerent lunisehold processes may well be 
chosen because of tlieii- relation to the various lields of scientific 
study with wluch the students are I'aniiliar. For example, tests of 
various household su])])Iies, such as metal polishes, may be under- 
tiiken by the student and carried out in tei-nis of clienucal science. 
Concrete items of household ecpiipnient such as the dish washer, 
vacuum cleaner, washing inachini', may be exanuned and tested in 
terms of physical principles as well as used practically to acquire 
a desiralde technique. Sanitary problems such as the care of dish 
cloths, the washing and drying of dishes, the removal of dust, may 
1)0 tested by the methods of bacteriology. Studies economic in 
nature may be made of the work problem ; household equipment, de- 
preciation and ujikeep. Social studies may be made, for example, of 
the hcmsehold employee, or the housewife as a worker. Also, archi- 
tectural studies of house plans, particularly of the service portion of 
the house, will be appropriate. These suggestions are given to 
indicate the fact that the subject matter of housewifery really in- 
volves the problems that lie in a dozen sciences, so that it merits an 
imj)ortant and dignified place in the college curriculum. 

The class period in housewifery for college instruction may well 
he a three-hour period, providing time both for instruction and 
laboratory practice, or a separate lecture period may Ije provided 
with a two-hour laboratory period at another time. The instruction 
may be made interesting by relating it very closely to the real life 
of the home and the community. The class hour may well begin 
by five-minute reports from students on assigned topics, such as 
housewifery articles in the current newspapers, magazines and 
other literature, observations on household practice in homes visited 
during the vacation; suggestions from manufacturers' demonstra- 
tions, and \dsits to stores and institutions. Student participation 
in developing the subject matter in a practical field like this is 
directly effective in making them interested to' apply the subject 
matter presented by the instructor. Following such brief reports, 
the instructor presents the topic for the period on which the students 
have already examined reference material ; discussion follows to clear 
up points in theory before the ])ractical work begins. 

Half to two-thirds of the three-hour period may then be devoted 
to practice work. The general topic is assigned for the consideration 
of the class — for example, the cleaning of metals. Then the students 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 337 

are orgaiiized into working groups and to ladi a special topic, i'or 
example, brass, silver, or nickel is assigned. The students test 
various reagents and tools for the problem in hand and make notes 
on results. Each group is organized with a student leader who is 
responsible for progress and results, and this is in itself a training 
of value. At the close of the hour the students clean up the room 
and put away materials and supplies, which is a valuable house- 
keeping lesson. 

The part-time service of a maid is necessary for such a laboratory, 
with duties of caring for materials, getting materials out for labora- 
tory use before the class hour begins, emergency cleaning, caring 
for bulletin boards, etc. The instruction to be successful should 
have a wealth of illustrative material as well as other adequate 
provision of materials, tools, and supplies, and their organization and 
care is in itself a piece of work requiring part of a worker's time. A 
laboratory fee may well be charged for the work ; $3 seems sufficient 
for a half-year course. 

In the college curriculum, housewifery will probably be closely 
related to the household management courses as explained below. 

Demonstration Teaching. — For the teacher who is working 
with the college student or with the housekeeper, much may be done 
by demonstration lectures in which one carries through a process, 
or shows a tool or piece of equipment and illustrates its use. Such 
drawings as those sho\\T:i to illustrate height of working surfaces 
and posture during worl<^ may be easily drawn, by the teacher ( Fig. 
175, a, h, c, d, e, /). Demonstrations may be given, in the school 
by the teacher, by the lecturer in extension work, and by 
" demonstrators " employed in the educational departments of 
manufacturing comjDanies, including gas and electric companies in- 
terested in introducing their products. With this type of work, 
moving pictures begin to play an important part, and the teacher of 
housewifery will find that it is possible to rent re^ls on different sub- 
jects, showing both the mechanical methods of equipment and de- 
vices, and the efficiency aspects of housekeeping. This is a new 
field that we are just entering, for which the possibilities seem 
without limit. Much has been made of demonstration lecture 
methods in teaching foods and cooking to adult audiences, and 
housewifery is a subject in which demonstrations are equally 
applicable. 

With the emphasis now on the teaching of vocational home- 
22 



338 



HOUSEWIFERY 




Fig. 175. — a, table too low. Note worker's back, b, table height good. No strain 
anywhere. <■, ironing board height good; is lower to allow for pressure with iron. J, sink, 
position good, e, correct position at w-ashtub; /, incorrect position at washtub. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR TEACHERS 339 

making in many states, a large problem will be the teaching of 
actual housekeepers, and more consideration will be given to demon- 
stration teaching. In rural communities, a private kitchen in one 
home when equipped with running water or with new devices, may 
be used as a "demonstration " for the housewives in that section. 
Concrete working " demonstrations " of this kind have been used in 
rural extension teaching both of home economics and of agriculture 
in many states. The home or farm thus ^' demonstrates " some con- 
crete items of good housekeeping or good farming to the neighbors. 

Housewifery Topics in a Cooking Course. — The following 
housewifery topics among many others may l)e readily brought into 
a cookery course : dish-washing, laundry equipment, laundering 
process (towels), stain removal, care of range, silver polishing, care 
of woods, metals, etc., cleaning a room, care of sink, economy of fuel, 
care of refrigerator, and kitchen equipment. Some of these topics 
may be used as separate lessons in the foods course; or they may 
l)e brought in incidentally in a cooking lesson. Teachers of cookery 
mil find it helpful to consider the topics presented in this book from 
the point of view of adapting parts of them to their courses. The 
book may also be assigned their students as reference reading on 
many problems related to food preparation. 

Special Classes in Housewifery. — Teachers will find it pos- 
sible to organize special classes in housewifery for housekeepers, 
and for household employees, who may come at hours when labora- 
tories are not otherwise used. Classes for wage-earning young 
women will be popular in the evening, especially if a model house 
or an apartment is available, so that the teaching is real and there 
is opportunity for home-like gatherings. In such classes, a small 
unit of four to eight lessons on definite practical topics is desirable. 
(Seei Lesson Outlines I and II, pages 326, 329.) 

Housewifery and Household Management. — Instruction in 
household management, whether in high schools or in higher insti- 
tutions, presents the theory of organizing and administering the 
household. The problems of housework, or the technique of house- 
keeping which forms the subject matter of housewifery, are evidently 
closely related to household management. Accordingly, many 
courses in household management already provide laboratory and 
other practice work in what is really housewifery, and to such 
teachers this book may prove useful as a text. 

Advanced Study of Housewifery. — The problems of house- 



340 HOUSEWIFERY 

wifery are worthy of advaneed study and rosoaroh, and in higher 
institutions the instructor will do well to secure for such studies the 
cooperation of such scientific departments as chemistry, physics, 
and hacteriology. The prohlems can often he guided cooperatively, 
the housewifery teacher checking up the ])ractical aspects of a 
prohlem such for example as dish-washing metliods, and the scientific 
department conducting as its part, the study of the mechanism 
of machines. In such institutions, the housewifery work merits an. 
advanced research lal:)orat<iry of its own for advanced students. 

The Teacher of Housewifery. — The teacher of this subject 
should, if possible, be trained in chemistry, physics, and ■ bacteriology 
in order to miderstand the background of the subject. But, even 
more, she needs to be an experienced housekeeper. Those preparing 
to teach it should do the actual work of a household for a period 
of several months, meeting responsiljilities of the tasks, money, 
time, materials, equipment, etc., personally. So only can they 
successfully adjust theory and practice in their o\ni minds and 
help students to do the same. 

The teacher is to set standards, but because students represent 
so many types of homes, she must be prepared to teach ways and 
means of housework as carried out under varying conditions. She 
must be able to present standards as ideals, rather than practices 
which every one must adopt. She must not only present her ideal 
and hold to it, but must at the same time readjust the standards 
of the students and carry them as far forward as is practicable. 

It is a poor jxvlicy to over-train by presenting a' standard that is 
economically impossil^le for certain students. For example, a good 
duster is any cloth that is non-scratching, soft, and non-linting; 
but it is better for the students to suggest types of material that 
might ])e of service in the homes, even if worn-out clothing is to be 
used as a duster, rather than for the teacher to present one or two 
types of purchased dusters which she suggests because used in her 
own training school. The 'teacher must know and teach economy. 
For example, many points regarding renovation must be taught, so 
that the student will be able to help ' reduce family expenditures. 
The teacher must not only know facts from bocks, but should have 
had the greatest experience possil^le, that experience which helps 
her to meet an emergency and readjust herself and hei work to 
actual conditions. 



INDEX 



Acetylene as a fuel, 55 

danger from, 57 

lights, 81 
Acids, 135 

Advanced study in housewifery, 339 
Agate utensils, 96 

to clean, 261 
Air pressure tank system, 29 
Alcohol as disinfectant, 300 

as fuel, 55 

for cleaning, 249, 250 
Alkahes in soap, 136 
Alternating electric current, 59 
Aluminum cleaning pan for silver, 97 

to clean, 261 

utensils, 94 
Ammonia, 135 

as a germicide, 299 

in soap, 136 
Antiseptics, 298 
Ants, 313 

Arsenic for pests, 308 
Ash chutes, 74 
Axminster carpeting, 161 

Basement storage, 205 

Baskets and hampers, 110 

Bath brick, 135 

Bathroom, equipment, closets, 226 

Bath tubs, 50 

to clean, 257 
Bed bugs, 312 
Beds, 186 

box springs, 188 

care of, 250 

cleaning of, 250 

cost, 189 

disinfecting, 304' 

for the sick, 254 

frame, to clean, 250 

relative costs of, 189 

removing pests, 312 

sheets, 193 

sizes of, 189, 196 

spreads, 193 

springs, 193 

to make, 251 

to prepare bed for night, 257 



Bedsteads, 186 

to clean, 250 
Beeswax, 130 
Benzine, 131, 308 

Bichloride of mercury as a disin- 
fectant, 301 
Binding of blankets, 196 
Blankets, 193, 254 
Bleaching cotton and linens, 280 

wools and silks, 281 
Bleach wood, 291 
Blended starch, 140 
Bluing, 141 

clothes, 278 
Boiling clothes, 278 
Borax, 136 

as a disinfectant, 299 

as a starch substitute, 140 

in soap, 136 
Boxes as filing cases, 237 
Box springs, 188 
Bran as a soap, 147 

as a starch substitute, 141 
Brpss, lacquered, 295 

mountings, 295 

to clean, 261 
Bread and cake mixer, 98 
Britannia ware, to clean, 262 
Brooms, closets, 119, 221 
Brushes, 119, 259 
Brussels carpet, 160 
Bucket pumps, 26 
Burners, 58, 61, 74 

of stoves, to clean, 269 
Business desk, 238 
Buying, general rules, 129 

Cabinet, kitchen, 92 

Cake mixers, 98 

Calcimine walls, 245 

Candle, paraffin, 80 

Canned heat and light, 55 

Canning outfit, 128 

Canning and preserving containers, 

217 
Carbolic acid solution, disinfectant, 
301 
for pests, 308 

341 



342 



INDEX 



Carbon filaments in electric lights, 

82 
Card catalogues, 237 
Care of beds, 250 

floor covering, 2-4(3 

porcelain, 257 

refrigerator, 267 

rooms, 241 

shoes, 288 
Carpet beetle, 314 
Carpet sweepers, 122 
Carpeting, brussels, 160 

chenille, 161 

hemp and grass, 161 

ingrain, 160 

Carpets and rugs, 158 

to clean, 147 

Cast iron utensils, 93 

to clean, 261 

Caves or dug-outs for food, 211, 

216 
Cellar, ventilation of, 297 

stairs, 4 

storage, 205 
Centipedes, 317 
Cereals and food containers, 216 

to store, 234 
Cesspools, 37 
Chamois, to clean, 288 
Chain bucket pumps, 26 
Charcoal, 54 
Chart, for service, 16 
Cheesecloth, 125 
Chenille, carpet, 161 
China, 198 

service for six, 201 

to wash, 265 
Class period, 336 
Cleaners and pohshers, 130 
Cleaning and care of rooms, 240 

cloths, 125 

equipment, 118 

tools, 118 

stores, 267 

refrigerator, 269 
Cleaning and renovation, 273 

bathroom furnishings, 257 

of fabrics, 273 

of furniture, 132 

of metals, 260 

of room, 241 
Clinkers, to remove, 74 
Closing runways of pests, 307 



Closets for bathroom, 226 

brooms and cleaners, 221 

clothes, 227 

kitchen, 209 

laundry, 208 

linen, 222 

medicine, 223 

pantry, 209 

preserves, 206 

shoes, 228 

tools, 227 
Clothes chute, 207 
Clothes-pin bag, 111 
Clothes, washing, 278 
Clothing storage closet 230 
Coal, 53 

bin, 206 

dust, 54 

storage, 206 
Coke, 54 

College course in housewifery^ 335 
Colored goods, to wash, 280 
Coloring matter in soap, 137 
Combs, to clean, 259 
Comfortables, to clean, 282 

to make, 196 
Commercial storage, 204 
Comparative value of rugs, 162 
Conservation of heat, 74 
Containers, earthen, 217 

food, 216 

garbage, 218 

glass, 217 

preserving and canning, 217 

soiled clothes, 110 

tin, 217 
Cook stoves, 61 
coal, 62 
electric, 63 
gas, 62 
kerosene, 63 
Copper, to clean, 261 
Corduroy, to clean, 283 
Cornstarch, 140 
Cost of rugs, 162 
Cotton mattresses, 191 
Cotton, to bleach, 280 
Counterpanes, 193, 254 
Covering of heating pipes, 76 
Creoline, as a disinfectant, 302 
Cresol, as a disinfectant, 302 
Cretonnes, 176 
Crockery containers, 94 
Curtains, 169 



INDEX 



343 



Dampers, conservation, 74 

of furnaces, 73, 76 

of stoves, "73, 76 
Danger from acetylene, 59 

gas, 59 

gasoline, 59 

kerosene, 59 
Demonstration teaching, 337 
Denim, 176 
Detergent, 274 

Dextrine, as a starch substitute, 141 
Direct electric current, 59 
Dish cloths, 184 

paper, 98 
to clean, 265 
Dishes for the refrigerator, 205 
Dish mops, 98 
Dish towels, 183 
Dishwashing, 264 

machine, 100 
Dishwater, disposal of, 31 
Disinfectants and f umigants, 297, 298 

alcohol, 300 

bichloride, 301 

carboUc acid, 301 

creoline, 302 

cresol, 302 

formaUn, 301 

lysol, 302 

hydrogen peroxide, 300 

table of, 302 

tincture of iodine, 301 

tricresol, 302 
Division of space in the home, 1 
Dolly clothes washing machine, 107 
Domet flannel, 125 
Drain boards, 45 
Drain outlet, 45 
Drains of sinks, 45 
Draperies and curtains, material, 165 

relative value of, 169 
Dry cleaning, 283 
Dryers, 111 
Drying clothes, 279 
Dug-outs or caves, 216 
Dumb waiters, 101 
Dust covers, 120, 242 

for mattresses, 192 
Dusting, 243 
Dustless dusters, 243 

dusting, 243 

sweepers, 121 

sweeping, 242 



Dust pans, 121 
Dyeing, 284 

Earthen containers, 217 

dishes, 94 
Earth water closets, 33, 34 
Economical utensils, 75 
Economy of light, color of walls, 149 
inverted hghts, 81 
types of shades, 80 
Egg storage, 218 
Eiderdown quilts, to clean, 282 
Electric cook stove, 63 

current, types, 59 

fans, 128 

irons, 116 

lamps, 82 

lighting, 59, 82 
of gas, 59 

meter to read, 60 

motor, 127 

to stove, 235 

pumps, 28 
Electricity as a fuel, 59 

as a light, 82 

to read a meter, 60 
Embroidery pads, 114 
Enamel cloth, 152, 173 

ware, 96 

painting of woodwork, 293 
Equipment, bathroom, 226 

cleaning, 118 

construction of, 85 

dishwashing, 264 

economy of, 85 

efficiency of, 85 

general, 84 

height of, 87 

kitchen, 90 

labor-saving appliances, 85, 103 

laundry, 103 

placing of, 86 

selection of, 84 

utility of, 85 
Essentials of table linen, 177 
Extermination of pests, 307 

Fabrics, to clean, 273 

to dye, 284 
Faucets, foot pressure, 41 

goose-neck, 41 

leaky, to mend, 41 

material, 40 
Feathers, mattress, 191 

pillows, 192 



344 



INDEX 



railing boxes, 237 
Filters, 42 

kinds, 43 

to clean, 271 
Tireless cooker, 76, 98 

gas stove, 78 
Fixtures, plumbing, 40 
Hat-work ironers, 117 
Flax-jute, 162 
Fleas, to exterminate, 314 
Flies, to exterminate, 309 
Floor, 153 

cloths, 125 

coverings, to clean, 246 

finished, 155 

kinds of woods, 153 
Flush closet, 35 

to clean, 258 
Food containers, 216 

pits or caves, 216 

storage, 211 
Foot-pressure faucets, 41 
Force pumps, 26 
Formaldehyde gas, 303 

formula, 304 
FormaUn, 301, 309 
Formula, formaldehyde gas, 304 
Fuels, 53 
Fumes, 308 

formaldehyde, 303 

formalin, 309 

sulphur, 303, 309 
Fumigants, 297, 298, 303 

for extermination of pests, 308 
Furnaces, hot-air, 65 

hot-water, 66 

steam, 68 
Furnishings, household, 148 
Furniture, 172 

cleaners, 132 

coverings, 173 

light, 172 

polishes, 132 

to glue, 294 

wooden, 172 
Fur rugs, 287 

Galvanized sinks, 44 

washtubs, 47 
Garbage containers, 218 

incinerator, 220 

utihzation, 221 

waste, 31 



Gas, 57 

burners, 58, 61 

cook stove, 62 

danger from 59 

lights, 81 

meters, to read, 57 

pilot lights, 58 

tojjs, 74 

water heater, 69, 70 
Gasoline, as exterminator, 308 

as cleaner, 131 

as fuel, 55 

danger from, 131 

engine, 28 
General equijjment, 84 

construction, 85 
labor-saving, 85 
selecting, 84 
utility and efficiency, 85 
General rules for cleaning room, 241 

for laundering, 278 
General standard of utensils, 97 
Germicides, 298 
Glass table tops, 92 

utensils, 94 
Glassware, 202 
Globes, effect of, 80 
Gold and silver lace, to clean, 283 
Goose-neck faucets, 41 
Grate fires, 65, 72 
Gravity water system, 27 
Grease stains, to remove, 274 

traps, 37 
Grouping tools, 8 

Gum arable as a starch substitute, 
141 

Hair mattress, 191 

pillow, 192 
Half-teaspoon measure, 98 
Halls, 4 

Hampers, clothes, 110 
Handles for bathroom fixtures, 259 
Handles for curtains, 171 
Hanging clothes, 227 
Hard plaster or cement walls, 152 
Hard water, 22 

permanently, 23 
temporarily, 22 
Hard wood, 153 

to clean, 246 
Heating, 61 

grate fires, 65 
Heating and lighting, 52 



INDEX 



345 



Heating by stoves, 65 

Height of sinks and washtubs, 47 

working surfaces, 87 
Helps in classroom, 323 
Hemp and grass carpeting, 161 

furniture, 172 
Home laundry equipment, 103 
Hot-air furnace, 65 
Hot-water heaters, 68 

heating system, 66 
Hour service, 19 

chart, 18 
House, to close, 232 
Housefiies, 309 
Household equipment, 84 

furnishing, 148 

labels, 236 

linen, 176 

measures, 146 

paper suppMes, 144 

pests, 307 

to exterminate, 307 
to prevent, 307 

pottery, 198 

supplies, 129 

waste, 31 

water waste, 31 
Housekeeper's desk, 238 
House plans, 10, 11, 12 
Housewifery and management 
courses, 339 

as a business, 1 

laboratory, 319 

special classes, 339 

topics in cooking courses, 339 
Housewife's suggestions to the archi- 
tect, 4-8 
Human waste, 32 
Humidity and heating, 52 
Hydraulic ram, 28 
Hydrochloric acid, 135 

used for stains, 276 
Hydrocyanic acid gas, 304 
Hydrogen peroxide, 300 

Iceless refrigerators, to make, 214 
Importance of storage problems, 204 
Incinerators, 220 
Ingrain carpets, 160 
Indirect lighting, 80 
Inflammables, to use for pests, 308 
Ink, to remove, 275 



Inorganic waste, 31 

Insoluble bluing, 141 

Installation and care of water system, 

29 
Instantaneous water heater, 70 
Insulation, 76 
Inverted Ughts, 80 
Iron and steel 

care of, 262 
storage, 235 
to clean, 261, 262 
Iron holders, 116 
Ironing, 279 
Ironing boards, 112 
covers, 115 
for sleeves, 113 
pads, 144 
Iron rests, 116 
Iron rust, to remove, 275 
Irons, 115 

alcohol, 116 
care of, 261 
electric, 116 
gas, 116 
gasoline, 116 
kerosene, 116 
to clean, 235 

Javelle water, 280 

Kerosene, 54 

as a cleaner, 131 
fuel, 54 

cookstove, 63 

danger from, 59 

for pests 

lamps, 80 

to clean, 250 

hot-water heater, 70 
Key tags, 236 
Kinds of fuels, 53 

irons, 116 

rugs, 158 

storage, 204 

water, 22 

wood, 153 
Kitchen cabinet, 92 

closets, 209 

cooking ware, 198 

equipment, 90 

sanitation, 297 

storage, 92, 209 

supplies, suggested list, 103 



346 



INDEX 



Kitchen tables, enamel, 92 

glass, 92 

wood, 92 
towels, 183 
utensils, 93 

aluminum, 94 

crockery and glass, 94 

enamel or agate, 96 

standards of, 97 

steel, 96 

tin, 97 

to wash, 264, 265 

wire, 97 

wooden, 97 
workshop, 2 
Knives, to wash, 265 

Labels, household, 236 
Laboratory, classroom, 319 

equipment, 321 

exercises, 326 

work, 319 
Labor-saving appliances, 84 
Lacquer, to renovate, 295 
Lamps, electric, 82 

kerosene, 80 

to clean, 250 
Laundering, general directions, 278 
Laundry closets, 208 

equipment, 103, 105 

suggestive list, 118 

storage, 207 

stoves, 64 

work unit, 2 
Leaky faucets, 41 
Leather, care of, 288 

furniture, 173 
Lemon oil, 131 
Lesson outlines, 326, 333 
Light furniture, 172 
Lighting, 79 

acetylene and presto, 81 

candles, 80 

electric, 82 

gas, 81 

hints on, 83 

kerosene, 80 
Lights, pilot, 58 
Lime, 299 

chlorinated, 300 

quicklime, 299 

slacked, 300 

water, 300 



Linen, 176 

closets, 222 

essentials of table linen, 177 

sizes of table hnen, 179 

tests for purity of, 176 

to buy, 184 
Linoleum, 157 

to clean, 247, 286 

to lay, 157 
Linseed oil, 130 

Liquid glass, for egg storage, 218 
Lower sheet for bed, 251 
Loans from firms, 322 
Long-handled dustpan, 121 
Lysol, 302 

Machine oil, 132 
Making fire, 70 

grate, 70 

stove and furnace, 70 
Mangle, 117 
Marble, to clean, 250 
Marking linen, 185 

handkerchiefs, 186 

napkins, 186 

pillow case, 186 

sheets, 186 

table cloth, 185 

towels, 186 
Materials for cleaning, 118 
Matting, to clean, 286 

to sweep, 247 
Mattresses, 189 

covers, 192, 251 

pads, 192, 251 

fillmgs, 190 

to clean, 251 

tufting, 190 
Measures, 145 
Meat grinders, 98 

stain, to remove, 274 
Medical equipment and supplies, 225 
Medicine closet, 223 
Metal lace and embroidery, 283 
Metal polishes, 133 

mesh pot washer, 98 
Metals for utensils, 94, 96, 97 

to clean, 260 
Metal table tops, 92 
Meter for electricity, 60 

for gas, 57 
Method of removing stains, 276 
Methods for teaching housewifery, 
318 



INDEX 



347 



Mice and rats, to exterminate, 315 

Milk separators, , 128 

Mirrors, 249 

Miscellaneous equipment, 126 

Model housekeeping centers, 324 

Mohair for furnishing, 175 

Mops, 124 

duster, 125 

wringer, 125 
Mosquitoes, to exterminate, 310 
Moths, to exterminate, 311 
Motors, small, 127 

to stove, 235 
Mourning starch, 140 
Music cabinets, as storage, 232 

Napkins, 179 
Naphtha, 131 

as a cleaner, 131 
National springs, 188 
Nickel cleaning, 261 
Notions, suggestive lists of, 142 

Oilcloth for walls, 152 

Oil dust mop, 125 

Oiled wood, 155 

Oil paintings, to clean, 296 

Oil stove burners, to clean, 63, 250 

Open plumbing, 46 

Order of work for cleaning, 241 

Organic waste, 31 

Organization of household, 15 

Oriental rugs, 161 

Oscillating washing machine, 109 

Other fuels, 54 

Outhne for washing dishes, 266 

Oxalic acid, 135 

used for stains, 275 

Pads for mattresses, 192 
Paint and calcimine walls, 152 

to clean, 244 
Painted floors, to clean, 246 
Painting, bath tub, 244 

wood, 293 

to clean, 296 
Painting, oil, 209 
Paint on glass, to remove, 250 
Palette knife, 98 
Pantry, w^ork unit, 2 
Paper dish cloths, 98 

tissue, 144 

toilet, 144 

towels, 144 



Paper, paraffin, 144 

wall, 149 

wrapping, 144, 238 

writing, 145 
Paraffin candles, 80 

oil, 130 

wax, 130 
Pastes for metal cleaning, 133 
Pests, ants, 313 

bed bug, 312 

carpet beetle, 314 

centipedes, 317 

fleas, 314 

flies, 309 

mosquitoes, 310 

moths, 311 

rats and mice, 315 

roaches, 312 

silverfish, 316 

squirrels and chipmunks, 315 

to exterminate, 307 
Pewter and britannia, to clean, 262 
Piano keys, to clean, 250 
Pictures, to clean, 296 

to store, 234 
Pile carpets, 160 
Pillows, to clean, 282 

feathers, 192 
Pilot lights, 58 
Pipes, to thaw, 30 
Piston pumps, 25 
Placing equipment, 6, 86 
Plaster casts, to clean, 295 
Plaster of paris, to use, 307 
Plumbing, 21 

fixtures, 40 

open plumbing, 46 

to close the house, 235 
Poisons to exterminate vermin, 308 
PoUshes, furniture, 132 

metals, 133 

wood, 155 
Porcelain, sinks, 44 

to clean, 257, 262 

tubs, 47 
Potassium permanganate, 275 
Pottery, 198 
Powders for pests, 308 
Preserve closet, 206 
Pressure and suction washer, 108 
Practice work, 323 

in homes, 325 
Preparation for dishwashing, 264 
Presto lights, 81 



348 



INDEX 



Preventive measures in household 
sanitation, 297 

bedroom, 2'J8 

cellar, 2'.)7 

grounds, 297 

house in jz;eneral, 297 

kitchen, 297 

laundry, 297 
Privies, 33 
Pumping by power, 28 

electric pumps, 28 

gasoline engines, 28 

hydraulic ram, 28 

windmill, 28 
Pumps, 25 

chain, 26 

bucket, 26 

electric, 28 

force, 26 

piston, 25 

Quality of blankets, 193 
Quickhme, 299 
Quilts, 196 

Radiators, to clean, 248 

Rag rugs, 162 

Rain water, 23 

Ram, hydraulic, 28 

Rats and mice, extermination of, 315 

Recipe, detergent, 274 

javelle, 280 

filler for woods, 291 

formaldehyde gas, 304 

furniture polish, 132 

metal polish, 261 

oxalic acid, 275 

paint remover, 290 

paste for wallpaper, 152 

prepared wax, 132, 295 

soap, 137 

starch, 279 

wood cleaner, 246 

whitewash, 300 
Recreation unit of house, 3 
Refrigeration, 211 
Refrigerator, arrangement of, 214 

care of, 269 

cleaning, 269 

construction, 214 

dishes, 215 

iceless, 214 

temperature of, 212 
Regulating dampers, 72 



Removing stains, 277 

water ring, 277 
Renovation of brass movmtings, 295 

of iaccjuered ware, 295 

of oil paintings, 296 

of j)laster casts, 295 

of woods, 289 
Repf) for drapery antl u|)li()ist('ry,176 
Rest unit of house, 3 
Reviews in housewifery, 333 
Rice starch, 140 
Rinsing clothes, 278 
Roaches, to exterminate, 312 
Rooms, cleaning of, 241 

fumigating of, 305 

lighting of, 79 
Rosin, 136 
Rotary washer, 108 
Rotten stone, 133 
Rouge cloths for silver, 134 
Rubber goods, to clean, 235 

to store, 235 
Rugs and carpets, 158 

to clean, 247, 284 
to store, 234 
types of, 158 
value of, 162 
weave of 160, 162 
Rules for buying supplies, 129 
Rural home storage, 204 
Russia iron, 93 

Sanitation of bedroom, 298 

cellar, 297 

grounds about house, 297 

house in general, 298 

kitchen, 297 

laundry, 298 
Saving colors, 277, 280 
Schedule for housewife without help, 
15 
with help, 16, 17 
School courses in housewifery, 326, 

333 
Score cards, 13, 14 
Scourers and cleaners, 139 
Screen for pests, 309 

cleaning of, 235 

storage of, 234 
Selecting equipment, 84 
Septic tank, 38 
Service chart, 16, 17 
Setting colors, 277 
Sewage disposal, 37 



INDEX 



349 



Sewing machine, 126 
Sewing supplies, 142 

storage of, 231 
Sheets, for bed, 193 
Shellacked floors, 155 
Shoes, to clean, 288 

cleaning outfit, 227 

storage, 228 
Silks, to bleach, 281 
Silver, care of, 233 

cleaners, 133 

cleaning of, 262 

cleaning pans, 134, 263 

cloths, 134 

pastes, 134 

powders, 134 

soaps, 134 

storage, 232 
Silverfish, 316 
Silverware, 196 
Simmering burners, 74 
Sink, 43 

drain boards, 45 

drains, 45 

faucets, 41 

heights of, 47, 87 

materials, 44 

open plumbing for, 46 

size of, 44 

slop, 47 

space savings, 46 

strainer, 98 

to clean, 266 
Slacked hme, 300 
Slate sinks, 44 
Sleeve boards, 113 
Small electric motor, 127 
Soaking clothes, 278 
Soap, 136 

as a disinfectant, 299 

bark, 139 

chips, 138 

for silver, 262 

making of, 137, 138 

powders, 138 

solution, 137 
"substitute, 139 
Soda, 138 

solution, 138, 299 
Soft water, 22 
Softening water, 23 
Sorting clothes, 27S 
Space for furniture, 6 
Space-saving sinks, 46 



Special classes in housewifery, 339 

Special storage closets, 221 

Spiral springs, 188 

Sportand athletic goods, storage of , 232 

Spotting precautions, 277 

Springs for beds, 187 

Sprinklers, 112 

SprinkUng clothes, 279 

Squirrels and chipmunks, as pests, 315 

Staining woods, 291 

Stains, outfit, 274 

precautions, 277 

to remove, 274 
Standardization, 9 
Standardizing, tools and tasks, 9 
Starch, 139 

blended, 140 

kinds, 140 

mourning, 140 

prepared, 140 

recipe for, 279 

substitutes, borax, 140 
bran, 141 
dextrine, 141 
gum arable, 141 

tints for, 140 
Starching clothes, 278 
Starting fires, furnaces, 70 

grates, 65 

stoves, 70 
Stationary tubs, 104 
Steam heating, 68 
Steel, 96 

to clean, 262, 289 

wool, 133 
Storage, 204 

closets, 221 

of articles for personal use, 231 

of carpets and rugs, 234 

of clothing, 227 

cellar, 205 

commercial, 204 

eggs, 218 

electric motors, 235 

iron and steel, 235 

laundry, 207 

linen, 223 

medicine, 223 

music, 232 

personal articles, 231 

preserves, 206 

rural, 204 

rubber goods, 235 

shoes, 228 



350 



INDEX 



Storage, sewing materials, 230 
silver, 232 

sport or athletic goods, 232 
tools, 227 
trunks, 207 
vegetables, 20G 
wrapping paper, 238 
Stove boiler, 68 
burner, 58 
care of, 73 
cleaning, 289 
Stoves, 234 
cook, 61 
coal, 62 
gas, 62 

electricity, 63 
kerosene, 63 
heating by, 65 
laundry, 64 
to clean, 289 
Strychnine for pests, 308 
Subsoil drainage, 39 
Suggestions for buying china, 200 
for buying linen, 184 
for review, 334 
for teachers, 318 
for ventilation, 52 
Suggestive lists of bathroom equip- 
ment, 226 
of china, 201 
of cleaning, 118 
of glass, 201 

household disinfectants, 305 
household supplies, 104 
of kitchen, 90 
of laundry, 103, 104 
of linen, 184 
of medical equipment and 

supplies, 225 
of sewing, 143 
of silver, 201 
of paper, 145 
Sulphur fumes, 303, 309 
SunUght as a bleach, 280 
as a disinfectant, 299 
Supervision of water supply, 22 
Supplies, buying of, 129 
cleaning, 118 
kitchen, 90 
laundry, 103 
medicine, 225 
paper, 144 
sewing, 143 
writing desk, 145 



Sweepers, 221, 222 
Sweeping, dustless, 242 
Swinging shelves, 207 

Table linen, essentials of, 177 

sizes, 179 
Table tops, 294 
Table, kinds, 92 

enamel top, 92 
glass top, 92 
wooden top, 92 

height of, 90 

of disinfectants, 302 

of weights and measures, 145 

to choose, 92 
Tableware, 198 
Tags and labels, 236 
Tank system, air pressure, 29 
Tanks, water, 29 
Tapes for marking, 185 
Tapestries, 173 

to clean, 286 
Teacher of housewifery, 340 
Tea leaves for cleaning, 242 
Test for purity of linen, 176 
Tile walls, 152 

floors, 156 

to clean, 245 
Tincture of iodine, as a disinfectant, 

301 
Tinware, 97 

to clean, 262, 289 
Tissue paper, 144 
To bleach cottons and linens, 280 

silks and wools, 281 

wood, 291 
To buy, general rules, 129 
To clean agate, 261 

aluminum, 261 

a room, 241 

bathroom furnishings, 257 

bed, 250 

frame, 250 

springs, 250 

brass, 261 

lacquered, 295 
mountings, 295 

britannia, 262 

brushes, 259 

burners on oil stoves, 269 
gas stoves, 269 

calcimined walls, 245 

carpets, 247 

chamois, 288 



INDEX 



351 



To clean combs, 259 
copper, 261 
corduroy, 283 
dry clean, 283 
eiderdown quilts, 282 
enamel paint, 246 
filters, 271 
flush closets, 258 
furniture, 203 
furs, 287 

gold and silver lace, 283 
handles, 259 
hardwood, 246 
iron, 261 

lacquered ware, 295 
lamps, kerosene, 250 
leather, 288 
linoleun), 247, 286 
marble, 250 
matting, 247, 286 
mattress, 251 
metals, 260 
mirrors, 249 
nickel, 261 
oiled wood, 291, 263 
oil paintings, 296 
paint from glass and mirrors, 250 
painted floors, 246, 293 

walls, 244, 293 
pewter, 262 
piano keys, 250 
pillows, 282 
plaster casts, 295 
porcelain, 257, 262 
radiators, 248 
refrigerator, 269 
rugs and carpets, 284, 247 
rubber, 235 
silver, 262 
sinks, 266 
springs, 250 
steel, 262, 289 
stoves, 267, 289 
table tops, 294 
tapestries, 286 
tiles, 245 
tin, 262, 289 

varnished wood, 291, 293 
velvets. 282 

wall coverings, 243, 244 
wallpaper, 243 
walls, 243 

white enamel wood, 246 
wicker ware, 294 



To_^clean windows, 248 
window shades, 282 
wooden floors, 155 
woods, 289 
zinc, 262, 289 
To close the house, 232 
To dry clean, 283 
To glue furniture, 294 
Toilet paper, 244 
To make a bed, 251 

a fire, 70 

a sick bed, 254 
To oil wood, 291 
To organize storage, 236 
Tools for cleaning, 118 

housewife, 227 
To paint, 293 
To polish wood, 293 
To prepare bed at night, 257 
To prepare room for fumigation, 304 
To put away clothing, 228 
To put on upper sheet, 254 

lower sheet, 251 
To read gas meter, 57 

electric meter, 60 
To refinish table tops, 294 

woods, 290 
To remove alcohol spots, 293 

clinkers from fire pot, 74 

dents and bruises, 292 

paint and varnish, 290 
\ scratches from woodwork, 292 

stains from clothing, 274 

water from woodwork, 292 

water spots from fabrics, 277 
wood, 293 
waxed floors, 293 
To restore color, 280 
To stain wood, 291 
To store beds, 234 

clothing, 227 

eggs, 218 

linen, 222 

medicine, 223 

personal articles, 231 

rugs and carpets, 234 

shoes, 228 

silver, 232 

tools, 227 

trunks, 207 

window screens, 235 
To thaw water pipes, 30 
To use a filler, 291 

a filter, 292 



352 



INDEX 



To varnish, 142 
To wax wood, 292 
Towels, 179 

size of, 183 

kinds, 179, 183 
To wipe walls, 243 
Traps, grease, 3(3, 37 

for pests, 309 

water, 36 
Tricresol, 302 
Trunk storage, 207 
Tubs, bath, 50 

wash, 47 
Tufted carpets, 161 
Tungsten lamps, 52 
Tui'pentine, 131 

on waxed floors, 293 

Upholstered furniture, 173 
materials for, 173 
to store, 234 
Upper sheet, to put on, 254 
Utensils, comparative value 
materials, 93, 97 

Vacuum bottles, 79 

cleaners, 122 

sweepers, 122 
Various washing devices, 110 
Varnished wood, 289 

care of 289, 291, 293 
Vegetable bins, 206 
Velvets, to clean, 282 
Ventilation, 52 

suggestions for, 53 
Voltage, 59 

Wallpaper, 149 

to clean, 243 

coverings, to clean, 243, 244 

kinds, 150 
Walls, 149 

finish of, 152 
Wash basins, 51 

benches, 104 

boards, 104 
Washing china, 265 

clothes, 278 

devices, 110 

dish towels, 265 

dishes, 264 

glass, 264 

kitchen utensils, 264 

knives, 265 



Washing machines, 107, 110 

rugs and carpets, 286 

silver, 265 

soda, 138 

windows, 243 
Washing soda as a disinfectant, 299 
Wash tubs, 47, 104 

height of, 47 
material of, 44 
Water, heating by gas, 69 . 

heating by kerosene, 71 

installation and care, 29 

kinds of, 22 

pum.ps, 25 

shut off, 30 

stains, to remove, 277 

stopcock, 30 

storage, 24 

supply, 22 

tanks, 29 

traps, 36 
Waste, household water, 31 
of human, 32 

inorganic, 31 

organic, 31 
Waxed, oiled or varnished wood, 155 

to clean, 132 
Wax, for polished furniture, 132 

recipe for, 295 
Weights and measures, 145 
Wells, 24 

Wheel egg beater, 99 
Wheel table, 101 
White enamel paint, 294 

to clean, 246 
Whitewash, 300 
Whiting, 134. 135 
Wicker furniture, 172 
to clean, 294 
Wilton carpets, 161 
Window food storage box, 99, 216 
Windows, to clean, 248 

to close the house, 234 
Window shades, 171, 287 

screens, 171, 235 

ventilators, 171 
Wire dish drainer, 100 
Wire ware, 97 
Wood as fuel, 53 

bins, 206 

care and renewal, 298 

to bleach, 291 

to clean water spots from, 293 

to clean painted, varnished, 293 



INDEX 



353 



Wood, to oil, 155, 291 
to paint, 293 
to polish, 293 
to refinish, 155, 293 
to remove alcohol from, 293 
to remove dents and bruises 

from, 292 
to remove paint and varnish 

from, 290 
to remove scratches from, 292 
to remove water spots from, 293 
to shellac, 292 
to stain, 291 
to use a filler on, 291 
to wax, 155, 292 



Wooden furniture, 172 

sinks, 44 

spoons, 100 

table tops, 92, 294 

ware, 97 

wash tubs, 47 
Work of removing stains, 276 
Work unit, 1 

Wrapping paper and string, 238 
Wringers, 106 

for mops, 125 

to clean, 235 
Wrought iron, to clean, 261 

Zinc, to clean, 262, 289 



IBRAH/Or CONGRE< 



013 826 614 A 




